Thursday March 29, 2018 A New Bar & Off to the Cays

We went ashore in the morning and after stopping for coffee took the half hour walk to Sparrows Bar which is located on pretty little bay around the corner of the island from Clifton. We’ve heard nothing but positive things about the bar and the reviews were not exaggerated. We arrived before they were open but the fellow raking the beach said no problem so we helped ourselves to pads for the sun beds and did some internet and swimming waiting for the bar to open. This is a really nice setting and is indicative of the improvements that had been made to Union Island over the last couple years. Prior to this visit I would have only considered stopping for a day or two if island hopping using local transport, mail boat or Lady JJ from Carriacou to Union then ferry onward, but now I would be happy to spend a week or so here.










Photos from Sparrow's Bar on Union Island

We had a very nice lunch, the ambiance a step above the average beach bar and the food nicely prepared. The server was happy to give me some grenadine syrup to use for making my rum punch and didn’t accept the 10 EC I offered. We will definitely be visiting this bar every time we are on the island.

We set sail for Mayreau with the intention of spending the night in Saltwhistle Bay, but upon arrival there weren’t any balls available and it was much too crowded to anchor comfortably as we weren’t interested in being so close to another boat. We continued on to the Tobago Cays, which is one of the highlights of the trip. Dan made a couple cakes to celebrate Em’s birthday and we enjoyed them with the prosecco I had brought with me for the occasion. Dinner was Dan’s world famous lasagna on board before calling it a night.



Entering the Tobago Cays



The birthday girl

Friday March 30, 2018 Tobago Cays – Lobster on the Beach

Nothing like waking up in the Tobago Cays, the sun was out and the wind was blowing making a slight chop in the anchorage. Some of the boat boys came by offering bread, ice, and fish a polite no thank you and they were on their way. We did all buy tee shirts from one of the boat boys, the designs are nice and they have always been of good quality.




My kind of morning

Kim and I went for a snorkel in the afternoon, the water was still choppy but I spotted a ray and a large turtle. The sea grass has retreated further out so we didn’t see as much as usual. A dingy stopped by and asked if Sunset Sammy was on board, turned out to be some folks I had been communicating with on Tripadvisor, they are normally BVI sailors but were trying the Grenadines this year due to the hurricane damage. I had answered some questions they had about the area. We had a drink on board then loaded up for our dinner on the beach.

Our usual guy, Jean Claude AKA Mr. Fabulous, has met a French woman and moved to Martinique, but no worries he had previously set Dan up with Desperado, they made the official hand over via facetime on Skyelark’s charter here earlier in the month. He did not disappoint; the lobsters were king size as usual and his stewed lambi (conch) was just as good as JC’s. We were joined for dinner by the crew of Tulla Mhor, another WARC yacht. The BVI folks were seated at the table next to ours so it was a nice social event.





Now those are some lobsters



A very happy lady

I brought a batch of my rum punch, which everyone enjoyed as usual. It’s really a great setting, picnic tables on the beach, nice breeze, the activity going on as the cooks prepare the meals; we time our dinner to finish up around sunset which works out perfectly. After dinner Desperado gave us a ride back so Dan wouldn’t have to make two trips in the dingy. We enjoyed some nightcaps in the cockpit before settling in for the night.

Saturday March 31, 2018 Mayreau, Palm & Union

Our original plan was to stop at Mayreau and then head over to Chatham Bay on Union Island for the night. We sailed past Salt Whistle Bay as it was still too crowded and instead anchored at Saline Bay. The anchorage was a bit rolly so a few of us just took a short trip ashore. It’s a hilly island, but a little exercise never hurt anyone. We walked up through the small town and I finally got to see Righteous Roberts Bar and speak with the man himself, it reminded me a little of Off the Hook with the mish mash of décor on the outside. We made it as far as the church on the hill which offered a great view of the surrounding islands. After getting some nice photos we went back to the pier and signaled for Dan to come get us.



Righteous Roberts



View from the anchorage at Saline Bay

One of the local boats had told Dan that Chatham was just as rolly as here so another change of plans and we headed to Palm Island, another first for me. The island is private and has a high end resort on it. They allow you to use the beach from the water to the tree line and also the bar. I like this better than PSV as the beach is nicer, security wasn’t following us around and the drinks were cheaper (25 EC for a mixed drink). It was funny that when I paid my bill in EC, they had to find EC change for me as the cash register only had US. I’ll never understand why people would pay so much ($1300 a night) to come to the Caribbean and yet never get to experience the Caribbean. I suppose if you just want a quite get away for a honeymoon or such it would be OK, but I like to get more into the local culture.





Palm Island Beach

We decided to get a mooring ball at Union for the night as the anchorage at Palm was also rolly. We went to shore before dinner, the town was busy with Easter a day away. There were some children all decked out in their Easter costumes, we were told there was a pageant going on that night.



Children all dressed for the Easter Pageant

Sunday April 1, 2018 Easter Sunday in Bequia

We set off early for Bequia, it was a brisk upwind sail our longest so far this trip. As we were sailing south, Fred (long time TTOL’er and Skyelarer) passed us sailing south to the Tobago Cays. He had done a couple months in the South Pacific on Skyelark and had chartered a bareboat with plans to meet us in Rodney Bay at the end of the rally. When we arrived the boats entered in the Easter Regatta were racing in the harbor. There were many local boats including a lot of Carriacou sloops. We didn’t get our usual ball, just off the Frangipani, but took one further out; still a good spot clear of the swells.



Easter Regatta on Bequia

First stop ashore was at the Whaleboner where we had drinks and used the wifi. We took a walk around town but most of the shops were closed for the day. A couple of the stands along the main road had some beautiful scrimshaw for sale at a good price. I told the gentleman I would like to buy some but that it wasn’t allowed back in the US; he said that he could give me a piece of paper verifying that it was from Bequia and because they are allowed to hunt whales I would have no trouble bringing it in, but I wasn’t convinced, would be nice to find out for certain.

I like Bequia, it’s a funky little island with just the right mix of development and Caribbean feel to it. It’s easy to understand why some sailors come for a visit and end up staying for years. There was a lot of activity in town between the holiday and the regatta, but it seems like Bequia always has something going on.



Yes, I'm a lucky man

Dinner was a chore, service was poor to non-existent in the couple local restaurants we tried, probably due to the previous nights parties. We did manage to get served at one place; Em’s burger turned out to be the best meal at the table, Kim ordered Creole chicken and was served curry chicken (which she doesn’t like). I had hoped to have curried chicken, but not seeing it on the menu I opted for the “catch of the day” as did Dan. When the meals were being served the waitress apologized to Dan and I that ours was taking so long, but it was because the fish was frozen and taking longer to cook.

We met up with the rest of the crew and headed back to the Whaleboner; the regatta party was next door at the Frangipani, but we didn’t want to pay the admission, added bonus the volume of the music was muted to a level that didn’t do too much damage to our eardrums.



A catamaran in the sunset

Thanks for the Trip report.

I just came back from a week sailing trip (Nautilus sailing 101,103,104 certification) with 3 friends. We stayed in Grenada, Carriacou and made a stop at PST Resort. I regret not being able to go up into the Grenadines though.

I think your trip report has convinced me to do a one way next year from St. Vincent to Grenada. Really want to spend some time in Tabago Cays, Union, Mayreau, etc.

Cheers

Thanks for the great trip report and beautiful pictures!

Sammy,

Great reports as usual. I keep looking for part 3 which should get you across the finish line. Good to see you again.
Fred

I love Bequia………….Did a sail from there. Been 1/2 dozen times.
Palm Island really upscaled. We stayed there 20 years ago.

Great trip report.
Cheers
irina

Wonderful report! Thanks for taking us along through your words and photos 👍⚓️🏝