BVI CRUISE 2005
Crew:
• Cape Porpoise Maineiacs - Sara & Paul
• Onpond – Nancy - 5 , Jema – The Admiral, and Randy
Vessel:
Lagoon 380 Catamaran through Sunsail
Log: July 26, 2005
From: Hundred Acre Pond, RI To: Hodges Creek Marina, Tortola
Left Hundred Acre Pond @ dawn remarkably organized – for the this Clan; all packed and ready to go before hand. PVD – Philly on US AIRWAYS went fine, except once in Phila discovered the camera/iPod/Vcam bag had been left at the TSA check-out back at PVD. Big OOPs.
Phila – STT leg on time. Called PVD – they found our camera bag – <img src="http://www.traveltalkonline.com/forums/images/graemlins/Joy.gif" alt="" /> Went to collect our checked bags – no bags. US AIR lost them. aaarrrrgghhhh. Went to ferry docks, had a few cold Caribes, caught the 1600 boat to Roadtown where it was 100º and no air. Really needing to unwind and get with the island time….
Taxi over to Sunsail base at Hodges Creek. Paul and Sara were aboard – hurray!, and Bobby’s Grocery was delivering all our provisions. A few words with the base manager about our lost luggage (with no great effect it seems), and it’s off to the local eatery to relax, and catch up with our mates Sara and Paul. But Paul wants to shower again – which we later realize is to become a theme of our cruise over the next week. The promise of cold Caribes and air conditioning at Fat Hog Bob’s overwhelms our loyalty to Paul and off we go. Dinner is very good. More Caribes, rum and wine whilst we celebrate Paul’s 56 birthday and all of our ARRIVAL. Hot night at Sunsail Hodges Creek.
LOG: July 27, 2005
Conditions: E 5-10 kts, Beautiful Caribee weather
From: Maya Cove, Tortola To: Brandywine Bay, Tortola
0800 Carleton checks us out 1st – our lucky day since there were 3 other boats waiting to leave. Carleton is friendly, breezy, and way too fast for me to keep up with. All my planned questions went out the window; I didn’t even think to brandish my checklist of Critical items gleaned from TTOL and lessons learned on my own. It’s a miracle we survived the week. Likkety-split Carleton pronounces us fit for charter and with not a second’s hesitation we are out of there. The ever-enthusiastic crew clears the lines, I put the engines in fwd and we glide out of our berth launched on our adventure. There is some disturbance on the dock and I glance back and see Carleton jumping up and down a bit yelling something. I wave back with a big smile, trusting that whatever it is is not enough to have him hop in a zodiac and drag us back. As we pass by the reef a porpoise joins us, playing with our bow wave welcoming us to BVI. Nancy is shrieking with delight.
We try reaching south to Cooper Island but the wind is too light. After an hour or so we motor over in time to grab a mooring ball, have lunch & snorkel in Manchionneel Bay. Nancy’s first time snorkeling and she loves it. She stays near shore but holds my hand and we swim through a nearby dock where there are lots of small fish. I am amazed how easily she accepts all the gear, rigamarole of getting it on just so and the usual mask leaks and water up the nose. Sara kindly volunteers to stay with her a bit so Paul and I can go exploring. I follow Paul out to the point hoping to see some more/bigger fish. It is either not a great snorkel spot or it isn’t mealtime – but either way there were few fish. We turn back to rejoin the girls and realize we have really drifted a ways downstream. We struggle back and I think we’re both thinking we’re not as young as we used to be.
Jema’s awake from her nap by the time we get back to the boat and we sail back toward Roadtown. Call Sunsail Base and Joyce – our hero, has arranged for our bags to go on the last CA-Roadtown ferry. Roadtown is too hot so decide to anchor in Brandywine Bay just east. We are the only ones there, nice and quiet.
Nancy stays with Sara + Paul, Jema and I dinghy over to Roadtown ferry docks. Finally the last boat has our gear and off we go back to Yacht FOLIE A DEUX just at dark. Paul, Sara and Nancy greet us on deck with Royal Salute. Best guess is that Paul and Sara’s happy hour was well underway, Nancy just happy.
LOG: July 28, 2005
Conditions: E 10-12 building to 24 kts, Beautiful Caribee weather
From: Brandywine Bay, Tortola To: Leverick Bay, Virgin Gorda
0730 Captain’s Birthday – 55. Doing my best to keep up with Paul, who btw not too pleased about having to perform his ablutions underway. We smile indulgingly but continue getting ready to weigh anchor. Paul does interrupt his morning ritual to assist, and then back to the cabin once we’re underway. There’s a bit of grumbling and mucking about from below, but eventually Paul/Felix Unger reappears quite dapper in his sailing togs. The moment has passed; there is hope for our trip. Meanwhile I look back at the Bay and Brandywine Restaurant. Have heard many good things about it and its hosts, Davide and Cele. Thinking we should have dined there last night…, but happy to already have a reason to come back next year!
Stove is finicky, takes 1 hour to make coffee but it hits the spot. It is a beat all the way to The Baths on VG. I think we are early but all up and down Drake’s Passage boats are racing over. Anchoring is not allowed so if you’re not in time to get a mooring you have to go somewhere else and try again another day. Stress for nothing – there are plenty of balls when we get there but do take pleasure in beating most of the other boats. Ferry everyone into the beach then take the dink out to the dinghy line and swim in. We stow our snorkel gear behind a rock and hike thru the Baths. Rocks are awesome, big as buildings with turquoise pools beneath them that we swim/wade through. We all enjoy Nancy’s incredulity. Hardly anyone else there which makes it all the more special. Kind of a BVI version of our Cathedral of Pines at Hundred Acre Pond.
Snorkel for another hour. Nancy goes out really far this time holding her Mother’s hand and we follow a rock line out to mouth of the bay. Then back to the boat for lunch, drop the ball, head out to Gorda Sound. About a 3 hour sail – wet and bouncy to windward. Am thinking that if Jema or anyone else is going to complain or get sick, now's the time. The girls are all forward riding the waves on the tramp, laughing as the seas swoosh up through the webbing. Thank goodness for those SeaBands. Paul very interested in examining the charts and asking navigation questions. We sail out past the Dogs on starboard then tack back to Mosquito Island with Paul at the helm. Motor into Gorda Sound, taking the shortcut between Mosquito Is. and Anguilla Pt. Where’s the water? - gotta love these shallow-draft cats!!
Grabbed a mooring ball at Leverick Bay, the marina just inside the Sound to to the south. Went ashore and had a Caribe while Nancy swam in their pool. Back to the boat for dinner BUT could not light the charcoal or get the stove to work. Oh well. We're limin.
LOG: July 29, 2005
Conditions: E 20 kts, Lots of showers, overcast
From: Leverick Bay, VG To: Spanish Town, Virgin Gorda
To: Leverick Bay, Virgin Gorda
0700 Figured out the stove last night laying awake in the bunk – bayonet connector @ solenoid switch pulled out; plugged it back together this morning and voilá! Coffee. Sailed downwind (finally) at 9 kts to Spanishtown. Picked up a ball outside Yacht Haven’s breakwall and dinghied in through the rain. Sent Elle and Sam postcards and checked out the shops. Took a taxi to the Top of The Baths. GREAT restaurant for burgers and beers. Waitress was lots of fun, laughing at Paul’s jokes, telling stories and pleasantly ignoring the desperate folk from the cruise boats that apparently had comp tickets for a drink and sandwich but only had 5 minutes to get it all done before the launch moved on. They were not on ilon time. We dawdled for best part of the afternoon enjoying the pool, Caribes and rum punches. Nancy and some buddies entertained themselves in the pool doing underwater double somersaults and handstands. Taxied back to the boat in a downpour, felt good.
Motored back to Leverick Bay into 24 knots hugging the shoreline. Cheated inside of Mosquito Is. again saving another hour’s bash outside. Back to Leverick Bay. SHOWERED!! We all went ashore for beach BBQ, dancing and Mocko Jumbies. We met up with Ginger from TTOL and her family – husband David, kids Paul and Laura and Ginger’s parents. They’re great folk and so glad we arranged this gathering. It poured rain just as we got our dinner, but it let up and after a couple dances we were all dry – or at least warmed up. Nancy jumped into the limbo contest and, being the smallest 5 year-old out there, had quite the advantage on the others. Mocko Jumbies couldn’t get over from Tortola because of the storms, but still good time had by all. Thanks, Kimmers, for recommending it.
LOG: July 30, 2005
Conditions: E 20 kts, Sunny Caribe Weather
From: Leverick Bay, VG To: Cane Garden Bay, Tortola
0730 Up and away before the dock boys arrive, so no water and ice. Free refills of those two essentials when a mooring fee is paid had been one of the advertised Leverick bonuses. But we had a TTOL party to attend on Tortola and no time to dilly dally over freebies. Paul was adapting reasonably well to the limitations on his morning and nightly baths, and I gambled that we could make another day or so on our original allotment. Motored around Gorda Sound - Gun Creek is nice, quiet anchorage, Biras Creek, Bitter End Yacht Club – did the tour. Sara and Paul had some fond memories from Bitter End, maybe next time we’ll put in there. Raised sail and left Gorda Sound, this time by the traditional Saba Rock passage. Had a terrific reach past the Dogs to Guana Is. A pod of dolphins greeted us just as we are gliding up the cove inside Monkey Point at 1100. Whenever we see them it’s a magic moment and we’re all delighted. Snorkeled out to the Point and then in to the beach. Lot’s of good fish. Sara is with us the whole way, which is a first. Come to find out she has been afraid of swimming in the open all along, but never complained. She conquered it though, and we’re only in to Day 4! Good on Sara!! Back to the boat for a great lunch, a couple Caribes…. We are the only ones in the cove and am beginning to think maybe we should stay overnight and really savor the moment. Never mind – we have a party to get to at CRC, Manpot’s home in Little Apple Bay. Hoist sail again and carry a good breeze down to Cane Garden Bay. The PR Navy is already arrived, anchored mediterranean style all along the beach. We picked up a ball at the other (quieter) end of the Bay at 1400.
Got into our party clothes, meaning our remaining clean clothes, dinghied into the pier, bought a case of Caribe at Rhymers’, and hailed a taxi. Well, not “hailed” like in NYC, but we saw a driver having lunch and dragooned him into taking us down to Malcolm’s and his new home – Chateau Relaxeaux Carib. Of course the driver knew exactly who Malcolm (aka Manpot) was, which was more than we could say. Malcolm is a TTOLer, one of a cast of great people on TravelTalkOnLine that helped us plan our trip. Ginger whom we met at LB, and Kimmers whom we didn’t meet but recommended LB for Friday night BBQ – both were TTOL acquaintances. And here we are traipsing across the north shore of Tortola to get to another TTOL-rendezvous. My mates are a bit dubious about flying 1200 miles to a foreign country and dropping in on strangers for an afternoon beer. Luckily Ginger and her family were outstanding last night, so I have some currency in the bank so to speak with regard to today’s TTOL business. Also lucky that I haven’t yet told them about Sharnightqueen, her Rugrats, and GlennA riding with us tomorrow over to Jost Van Dyck. More TTOL friends.
Malcolm is hosting his own housewarming party in celebration of CRC’s recent completion. And with what seems to me complete generosity and a little reckless – he invited all TTOLers in the neighborhood to join in! Charmaine (Nova Scotia I believe), Walker and Nancy (Houston), Tom Garvey (Illinois), Gary (Calsail), John & April of Spaghetti Junction fame, and Davide from Brandywine, Landcrab and his beautiful bride (Florida and Brewers Bay), and others I met and had a great time with, but not before the plentiful Mt. Gay addled my memory. My apologies if I forgot anyone. The food was the BEST with contributions that I sampled from TomG and his wife, Davide, John and April and Walker and Nancy. At some point Sharon (Sharnightqueen) arrived in her flowing robes with Rugrats in tow. Introductions were made to my crew and I took the opportunity to invite her crew and GlennA to sail with us to JVD tomorrow. Well into the spirit of the moment by now, The Admiral, Sara and Paul thought it was a grande, impromptu idea. There was no need to explain the arrangement was weeks old. Swam, drank, laughed and ate our way through the afternoon. Nancy’d had it by 1700 so back to the boat, great steaks by Paul.
LOG: July 31, 2005
Conditions: E 5-10 kts, Squally Morning giving way to beautiful afternoon
From: Cane Garden Bay, Tortola To: White Bay, Jost Van Dyke
0930 Sharon’s (Sharnightqueen of TTOL fame) 3 grandkids – BadBad, Davione & Tyrone (TJ) and their mothers sailed to White Bay with us. It was pouring rain when I picked them up at the dinghy dock. We were all soaked but in good spirits. Kids are great and TJ looks after his two younger cousins. They get a kick out of being on the boat and especially steering. We go to Sandy Cay to snorkel and swim but cannot anchor – the windlass is kaput! Changing gears, we sailed on down to White Bay which is where we are to meet Sharon later on anyway. She is bringing all their camping gear over on the ferry.
Picked up a ball in front of Ivans about noon. Nancy and Davione become great buddies in the water, then played UNO, then swam, and swam some more. Lazed about Ivan’s most of the afternoon in keeping with the Stress-free theme. Sharon arrived and introduced us to Stress-free punches, which if possible slid down the gullet even more easily than everything else we’d consumed. Helped TJ set up their tent, no small challenge after all the Punches. Think I did more “supervising” than helping.
Eventually dinghied down to the other end of the beach to the Soggy Dollar bar, home of the PainKiller. It really was good – surprisingly since haven’t liked coconut drinks ever before. Everything goes better in paradise. Did a little walkabout and Sandcastles Hotel looked really nice, casual style. Nancy made a friend Briana & they played the ring game – ring on a string that you swing onto a nail on a tree. Left a couple PK’s for TTOLer BigJim for steering us to White Bay and the Soggy Dollar in particular. Will be interesting to find out if they are still on the Board when he gets here in a few weeks.
Back to the boat with the last of the daylight. Paul cooked great steaks and the Admiral and Sara team made terrific fixin’s. Had to change moorings due to big cat that came in beside us that seemed intent on running their generator all night. Moved upwind. Terrific night in White Bay, JVD.
Log: August 1, 2005
Conditions: ESE18-22 kts, Clear
From: White Bay, JVD To: The Bight, Norman Is.
0730 Sad to leave White Bay; would love to spend another day @ JVD, visit Green Cay and Bubbly Pool. JVD really is a throwback to the 60’s or 70’s. But have to position ourselves to return FOLIE A DEUX tomorrow early. Sara wants to go to Norman Is. and it’s close to Maya Cove/Sunsail + lots of caves to explore. Treasure Island! Get underway early again. Paul seems to be in the rhythm now – no complaints about restraints on the morning whirlpool. Not sure if it’s that he’s finally gotten into limin in de ilons on day 6 or – more likely, that we’re following a Beneteau out the channel with a bevy of topless beauties on deck. We beat upwind to Sopers Hole and crew work is pretty smart. Only mishap is accidental dump of the mainsail just as we are crossing tacks with the GIRLS. An inglorious end to our struttin’ and styling’. Everyone takes a hand at the wheel on the other side of West End as we have a great sail to Norman. Jema and Nancy laugh as they get drenched by the rushing seas while riding forward on the tramp.
We grab a ball in The Bight and dinghy over to the caves. CUAN LAW is already there; she is huge and we circle her a couple times to check her out. She looks like the spaceship Enterprise and all her inflatables zipping passengers back and forth like so many water spiders. Bad simile but there you have it. We all splash in and go exploring. Nancy and I enter one cave and swim to the rear wall. Kind of spooky back there because there’s little light. Almost expect to find a pirate or skeleton popping out at you . I keep my cinematic fears from Nancy. As we turn back to the entrance there are a million silvery minnows backlit by the sun outside. Nancy points and says, “Mmmpph goinyu mmm” through her snorkel and swims out the cave. The minnows hold their space, moving just enough to let her pass. It’s like she is swimming through a pipeline toward the light. Where’s my camera?!
Back to the boat for for a few Caribes & relaxation. Paul and Sara treat us to dinner at Pirate’s Bight – what great food. The best grilled lobster ever had in BVI – not over cooked, and Jema’s rack of lamb – WOW. It would have been a great meal anywhere but it is hard to believe they can make food that good in a kitchen on a beach. Meanwhile Nancy entertained herself lining up all the beach chairs in a perfect row.
Great night stargazing, even saw a few shooting stars. No moon or clouds. No wind either so it got hot later down below. Grabbed a pillow went on deck. Sara and Paul had the trampoline staked out so climbed onto the boom and nestled into stackpacked main. Was snug as a bug with a soft breeze keeping things cool. Suddenly woken by cries of “RANDYYY!” The Admiral’s hootin and carrying on 2’ from my ear. “RANNDDYYYY!!” Sheeesh…. I guess she had woken and went looking for me. Not in the head, not in the cockpit, not on the trampoline. She woke Paul and Sara and has everyone calling for me and looking in the water. Cabinlights are clicking on all around the anchorage; Paul is on the radio calling “Sunsail – Yacht FOLIE A DEAUX has a new Captain.” At some point I woke up and got yelled at for putting everyone through such bother. Jema and Sara go back to bed, Paul looked wistfully at the Captain’s chair.
Log: August 2, 2005
Conditions: ESE16-20 kts, Clear
From: The Bight, Norman Island To: Maya Cove, Tortola
0600 Put the coffee water on. Have learned finally that on this boat it takes a solid hour to get coffee water boiling and perked so that’s my 1st job. Paul does not like us sailing before his coffee. At breakfast I get the full story about last night’s fire drill, all of which I slept through of course except for the end. Jema thought I had fallen overboard and she and Sara had gotten quite worked up. Paul savored his 5 minutes as Captain, which Sara referred to as his Alexander Haig moment. Lots of laughs but also a little sad because it’s our last day.
We motor south between Peter and Norman Is. into the Caribbean Sea, hoist sail and make a wide rounding of Peter Is. back toward Maya Cove. Good size rollers outside and for a while can imagine we’re really at sea as we make 9 kts and water’s boiling in our wake. As we enter Maya Cove we see there’s already a boat at the tee of the dock they had asked us to return to, leaving us just barely enough room to land. Instead of having 80’ to play with I have to squeeze onto the small patch of dock left. The crew handles fenders and lines like old hands and with the magic of two engines we make a perfect landfall after 7 days.
Good friends, good sailing, good times.
