BVI newbie questions, concerns, itinerary?

Hello TTO community!

We are a family of 5 (mom, dad, and kids aged 13, 11, and 9, all with sailing experience) who are super excited about our first visit to the BVI and our first ever bareboat charter. And to be perfectly honest, my wife and I are a bit nervous about it as well, but everyone said BVI is the perfect place for your first bareboat cruise, so here we go! We have been reading the cruising guide and lurking on this forum and the FB group for a while, but real prep time is upon is. Here’s some info that may be relevant before I ask a couple of questions.

Boat: 41’ Monohull chartered from Horizon YC June 16-26. We originally were looking for a 7 day charter and asked Horizon to price match an offer from another company, and they offered us their 10 days for price of 7 deal (which wasn’t in effect at the time, this was January). I only say this because we feel like these are bonus days and plan to stay on the boat when we otherwise might have stayed in a hotel before/after cruise.

Getting there/back: Our flight from Miami arrives at STT on Thursday June 16 at 11:21 AM and we have tix for the Roadtown Fast Ferry departing at 2:30 pm. Our flight departs STT Sunday June 26 at 5:35 PM and we have tix on Native Son departing Roadtown at 11:30 am earlier that day.

Our experience: I have been sailing ~25 years and my wife for about 8. We own a Corsair F-27 trimaran and are fortunate to be able to sail year-round in Biscayne Bay and the Keys, and are used to docking our 18’ beam at crowded crazy Miami marinas. But our F27 has an outboard. I have never skippered a monohull over 30’ in length and have no experience at all maneuvering with an inboard engine.

As a result, HYC was not-surprisingly concerned after reviews of our sailing resumes. In response, I offered that we would be fine with spending the first day with a skipper who could give us docking lessons as well as going over everything else with the boat. The end result is that on Friday June 27 “ You will be required to have a check-out skipper who will accompany you for the first 24-hrs OR to the first anchorage of your charter. Upon approval of that skipper you will be allowed to continue your bareboat charter. If you are not approved, you will be required to hire a skipper for the duration of your charter”. I am fine of spending the first full day (2nd day of charter) with a check-out skipper (we suggested it) but it will put a serious damper on our plans to have to hire a skipper for the rest of the cruise! (Yes I know it's in the contract I signed).

Questions (I’m sure I’ll have more later):

Do I need to be seriously worried about the check-out cruise? Do you have to be extremely incompetent/overconfident to fail these, or is it actually common? Should I expect some level of friendly instruction or are they going to be looking over my shoulder and judging my every move from the git-go?

Our boat has 3 double berths for our five. Should I propose to HYC that we do a long day sail on June 17, including picking up a mooring ball somewhere, and then return to Nanny Cay that evening to drop off the skipper, and sail out on our own on the morning of June 18? I don’t see how having the check-out skipper sleep on our boat proves anything additional. Or should we go with what they suggest (or should we expect them not to budge?).

I understand there is a grocery store next to the HYC offices. We plan to (mostly) provision ourselves. Will we have time to do this after arriving June 16 (I expect we will not arrive in Nanny Cay until what … perhaps 5 pm)? Or should we plan to provision the morning of June 17 before the check-out sail begins? When should we try to schedule our chart briefing?

Do all of our ferries and flight times look okay as far as not missing flights or ferries? On the last day (Sunday 26), to do the boat return/check-in and catch the 11:30 am ferry out, do we need to plan to spend the last night (Saturday June 25) on the boat in the marina, or is there still enough time to spend that night are someplace close like Cooper’s or Norman’s and still return in time without a lot of stress?

Given these constraints, do you have itinerary suggestions? I originally had my heart set on going to Anegada, but given the potential loss of a day or two to the check-out, that’s probably not going to happen. Which is ok – HYC may not let us anyway, and Anegada sounds more like the Keys (flat) that we are used to, so we can save it for next time. But would you give up Jost Van Dyke for Anegada if it was one or the other?

Our boat has A/C. Don’t know how much we’ll need it, but it was one thing my wife put her foot down on. Should we expect to have to get fuel somewhere along the way because of generator use? Or will one tank be plenty? We did not get the pre-paid fuel option. Should we?

Do we need to pay extra for a wifi/internet package in order to have a chance on Boaty Ball, or will a 5G iPhone (on T-Mobile, ughh) be sufficient?

We are avid snorkelers and plan to bring our own masks but use HYC fins. Good idea? We like to paddle board. Rent one from HYC worth it? What about other water toys to keep the kids happy? Kind of a rip-off to rent from the charter company, or go for it?

OK that’s a short novel’s worth so I’ll stop for now. Thanks for reading!

We have a boat at Nanny Cay and over the years we have either ordered our provisions ahead of time to be delivered to the boat or have gone to the store ourselves (Riteway Pasea). The Riteway at NC is like a small convenience store and is great for staple items you may have forgotten to order but I would never try to provision for a seven day trip there.

Your kids will love the pool at Nanny Cay.

I had a checkout captain the first day of my first bareboat. He had a really gentle, subtle way about him. I was 2 hours into before I even realized I was being tested the whole time. Shortly after that, he worked with us an hour or so on picking up mooring balls, we sailed over to Cooper and had lunch. Over lunch, he was quizzing me about chart stuff. We spent the afternoon with him working with the crew on what they would need to do and then we dropped him off at Trellis that afternoon. It was no big deal. Now, had I not answered things correctly early, it may have become a big deal.

Judging by your resume, the check out likely will be a non- issue. Take it as a time to get use to the feel of the boat.
Ask check out skipper to let you get the feel of maneuvering to pick up ball . See how it moves as you go into reverse.Figure eight turns etc.

Perhaps plan first night stop at Trellis bay as plenty of balls(no rush to get there) and can likely disembark. Hopefully you have a water maker and if so, no reason to dock until returning to base. Likely base can send out a driver to assist you in coming in... One phase to keep repeating in your head (and out loud) is "SLOW is PRO" , around mooring balls and docks.
If no water maker, then you will need to dock for water, but a T-Dock... Remember which way the boat walks in reverse? Refresh on purpose of lines (bow/stern and Spring lines). Know the draft of boat and whether Anegada not recommended for that particular depth. You can have great time even if you skip Anegada this trip... and an excuse to come back soon.

Here are my thoughts (but full disclosure, we have only sailed catamarans). I think you will be fine with all of the experience that you have. We have never used more than half of our gas (but again, we have 2 tanks) even while running the generator generously. So you may not need to refill which would remove the need to stop at a dock. Consider spending the first day with the check-out captain, perhaps end at Norman and arrange to pay for him to hitch a ride back to Nanny Cay. One day should give you plenty of time to practice sailing and work on mooring balls. You could practice docking on the fuel docks before leaving. Also, consider paying for Horizon's Express checkout, where they bring you in and refill the boat - this will give you plenty of time to come in on the 26th (from Cooper or Jost), around 9 and still make the ferry.

General itenerary could be:
Day 1: Norman (snorkel Caves and Indians)
2: Sail to Cooper - use boaty ball or get there early for FCFS balls.
3: Sail to Baths (or straight to North Sound - Leverick, Saba, Bitter end)
4: Another night in the North Sound - consider renting a car at Leverick - go to Baths from there, Savannah Bay, Coco Maya (lunch), Hog Heaven, Nail Bay, etc.
5: Sail to Anegada (I would not miss it). Be diligent with instructions on sailing there. Consider renting a car. Defintely hit Cow Wreck/Tipsy's. Then Lobster dinner that night at one of the many great places.
6: Sail to Marina Cay - Go to lunch a Scrub - let kids enjoy pool, beach toys etc. (consider getting a slip here for the night, particularly with the kids), or just dinghy over from balls at Marina Cay.
7. Motor to Monkey point for a snorkel. Consider a quiet night at White Bay Guana Island. Or Go to Cane Garden Bay
8. Go to Diamond Cay/Little Jost (Sandy Spit, Bubbly Pool, Foxy's Taboo, B-line
9. Great Harbor. Spend day at White Bay (Soggy Dollar), dinner in Great Harbor
10. Early sail back to base.

If needed, refuel at Leverick, Cane Garden, Great Harbor. We always enjoy paddle boards. Definitely provision with Riteway or Bobby's online, and Tico or Caribbean Cellars for alcohol. They will deliver to the boat. You can get a few things at small riteway market at NC. Also restock at Leverick, Scrub (or Trellis), Cane Garden, Great Harbor.

I would consider using boatyball for Cooper and Great Harbor. Renport is expensive, but great highspeed internet - kids will like it for streaming, but you may not want that.

Your family will have the best time and again, you should be fine with your experience. Just get comfortable with boat operations and maneuvering with mooring balls with captain.

Thank you Lex, Dayhiker, Deepcut, and Rush for the replies! Appreciate all the tips, advice, and sharing your experiences.

We will not have a water maker, so sounds like docking along the way is in the cards for us. Good way to add practice and up our experience level right? I think that's the way I looked at it when I passed on the pre-paid fuel option when I arranged the charter earlier. Although I will look at the express check out option again if it might help us squeeze another night of cruising in.

"Slow is pro" are words we try to live by and hopefully will serve us well in BVI.

We don't own a boat but have been chartering with Horizon for the past 17 years, 38-47 foot monohulls. Usually 2-3 weeks each year. Great people to work with. The guys doing the 2 hour checkout (before you leave the dock) are very thorough. All systems and rigging are explained. Years ago I asked one of the guys how he could tell about the competency of the captain without regard to the resume. He smiled and said, "its all about the questions during checkout". My quess is you will head out to either Norman or Great Harbor on Peter and demonstrate the skills necessary. They frequently pull a second dingy behind the boat to make their way back to Nanny Cay if you "pass".
All their boats have the operations manual on line. You should go though it.
Given your ferry arrival time, do you plan on overnighting on board? Because by the time you get to Nanny Cay it will be 4:30 and that does not leave sufficient day light to sail out and demonstrate your competency.
We have sailed for three weeks and never needed to refuel. You will need to take on water a few times with five people on board. Thats where the docking ability comes in. BTW, there is usually good help at the fuel docks to secure the lines. If you can get close enough and can throw a line far enough, you will be fine! Best of Luck!

Thanks Robert. We plan to overnight in the marina on arrival day and the next day will be the check out day. I'm about to talk to Horizon about the options for getting the check-out skipper back to base (assuming we pass). Just wanted to get the low down beforehand. I just found the operations manual online and will start reading it tonight. Good tip!

I can see that two cruise ships are scheduled to be in Roadtown during our charter, both on June 23. Are there any particular places besides the Baths that we should avoid on that day?

Cruise ships in RT wont impact Baths. sometimes there is a cruise ship that anchors off the baths and brings guests through Spanish Town. If that is case hit baths early morning or late afternoon

https://bviports.org/cruise-schedule/

Cane Garden Bay will be busy that day until about 3pm so I'd save it for a different day if you have the option. The upside is the kids could ride the "banana boat" or rent jet skis that day.

Cane Garden Bay can get signfiicant traffic with Cruise ships in port. I do love Horizon's manuals that are easy to find on-line- that will be very helpful to you.

Ah, I didn't see the "cruise anchorages" listed the first time I checked the schedule, only RT. But looking now I see that no "cruise anchorages" are scheduled in 2022 until November. So sounds like, banana boats aside (I'm sure they'd love it), we just need to avoid Cane Garden Bay on that day.

There are often a number of cruise ship excursions to the Baths. Do as suggested and go early morning or late afternoon.

If the weather is good (no North swell), consider anchoring overnight in Lee Bay off the western side of Great Camanoe. You may be the only boat there and the water is much cleaner than Marina Cay.

I wouldn’t worry about the skipper. If you don’t “pass”, just have them stay with you for another day. They *want* you to be able to go out on your own, without being too nervous and with you and you family having a great time. You won’t have a great time if you’re worried about the “captain” part. Worst case, you have a captain for three or four days. No big deal. Go have a great trip!

Thanks for the input RW and Kego. My wife has been worried that in the next couple of weeks we need to hire someone here in Miami to give us lessons on handling a large monohull around the docks, and I told her that we are much better off having someone teach us on the boat we'll be using, and if it takes the first two or three days, so be it. But it's nice to hear it from someone else! That said ...

When check-out captains stay overnight on a boat that was chartered without an extra person in mind, what is the protocol for determining where they sleep? I have heard that it can be very nice sleeping in the cockpit under the stars, but is it right to expect the check-out captain to do that? The dinette settee is perhaps another option, although it is not designed to be converted. Or should we expect our 9 year old son to sleep there so the check out captain can get a cabin to him/herself?

Agree with Kego... A 41 foot mono looks big for about a day. And you may want to consider, if you haven't already, allowing your wife to "man" the helm while picking up a mooring ball. Even with a 6 foot boat hook, its a reach to grab the pennant. And have someone teach you the basic hand signals so you're not screaming at each other while trying to be heard over the wind.

After dozens of charter trips, I have learned that you can't spend too much time with the checkout skipper. Be sure to go over all the systems on the boat, particularly electronics and plumbing. Where are the through hulls, how to switch fresh water tanks, how to check all tank levels, location of all breakers and other electronic switches, and so on. It is a good idea to check to make sure that all of the heads are flushing free and you know how to switch back and forth for the holding tanks. And so on. No matter how much time you have spent on other boats, you will discover idiosyncrasies on your new vessel. Location of tools, flash lights, operation of the radio, autopilot controls, and so on. In my extensive experience, the more questions you ask, the more confident the check out person will be that you know what you are doing. Over confidence will not serve you well.

Thanks for the input. My wife usually takes the helm when I'm on the bow wrangling with the anchor, so we'll probably continue that way. We're going to work on our hand signals this weekend.

I talked to Horizon and I'll have the usual chart briefing as well as the check out. From the sound of it, a lot of those systems reviews will be part of the briefing. I also found out that the check out skipper won't be spending the first night on the boat with us, assuming we "pass", solving that potential issue. They prefer Norman island as the destination for that first night, so the check out skipper can take the ferry back to Nanny Cay.

I have a question about using BoatyBall. When you want a ball in a given mooring field, can you click on the mooring field and have it assign you any available one in that field? Or do you have to select a particular ball in that field? If so, it seems like some of the "luck" in getting a ball or not would simply be whether you went for a ball that others were going for too. Do some people use a strategy of picking a less desirable ball in order to increase their chances? Do the least desirable balls tend to be those closest to shore, furthest, or in between?

Your kids will love this vacation. Every year our kids ask to go to the BVIs.

My husband, the sailor, and I have done the BVIs at least 8 times. The first time was on our honeymoon and the last time was before Covid when our two boys were in high school. The first time we took our boys they were 9 & 11 and we were on the monohull on the same size as your boat. My husband is the only one in our family who has sailing experience. We don’t own a boat so we are not as experience as you guys and we were just fine. We always charter with the Moorings and they did not require a skipper to evaluate us. We have charted both mono & cats up to 50ft. I think it is pretty ridiculous if they make you do a 2nd day with the skipper esp since you own a boat.

The difficulty with the larger boat is when you need to dock to get water. When you return to base, you can have them jump aboard to motor the boat into a slip if needed.

Here are my recommendations…

1) Gets the kids involved. Have them get familiarized with knots and have them be the ones who are responsible for the bumpers. Also they can be your eyes while sailing. There are fishing lines/nets to watch our for. Also they can be on the lookout for turtles and dolphins. One of them can be the mooring ball guide.. hand signals established on guiding you to the ball and when to slow down. Another one can be responsible with communications… with the motor running it can be noisy. Have the communications guide, repeat instructions from your wife and moorings guide. Make the sailing a team effort with everyone having a job.

We had the kids be on swim team so they are strong swimmers before the trip. We are in So Cal and have junior guards. If there is something like this Miami, sign them up so they are comfortable swimming in the ocean and know how to get out of rip currents. Obviously this won’t be occurring on your trip but definately helps to be strong ocean swimmers while snorkeling.

2) If you can, I would do a sleep aboard the night before sailing and do your provisioning the night before sailing. Also the sleep aboard, gets you familiar with the workings of the boat before you leave. If there are any mechanical problems, they can be resolved before you sail. With provisioning, have all the heavy items like water and drinks delivered to the boat so you don’t have to hassle with lugging back to the boat.

3) AC - You will be so glad to have especially at night.

4) Baths. There are mooring ball at the Baths. If you plan to do this, you will probably dingy everyone to the shore. It will be a long swim for the littlest one. Or if you rent a car, that is one way to visit. If you want to do a one way trip to through the boulders, there is a hiking trail (might be long for the littlest) to the far end of the rocks then you explore your way back to the beach. You can avoid the hike and explore in the boulders to the end and come back the same way.

4) Anegada. For all our times going, we never did Anegada until our last trip. Since you have 10 days, you will have the time. It is a long sail and very shallow once you get to the mooring ball field. I highly recommend doing the conch island tour with Kelly.

5) Problems. Our experience with problems and stress usually have never been due to sailing but due to boat problems. Something with the boat is not working. We had to switch boats once. Twice, while motoring we got tangled in fishing line. 2nd time the boys were big enough that they were the ones with the knife cutting away the line. With every trip, we have run into some type of problem which were stressful but after every trip, we want to go back and do it again.

Hope your family loves the BVI as much as we do. LMK if you have any other questions.

If I had problems with the boat on every trip, I think I would consider trying one of the other companies. Monitor this forums and you will see some have much more issues than others, likely due to less optimal maintenance.

TMM Charters has great reviews.

We chartered with Dream Yacht last year in the Keys. I can even put into words how horrible that charter went. That trip forever made us Moorings fans forever.

Example of stressful on our last Moorings charter was figuring out the nuance how the water maker worked. Not a deal breaker.

With DYC, we had a generator go out then having to switch to a new boat. Maintenance staff saying they are coming back then an hour later find out they left for the day. With the new boat having sewage spilling out onto the deck. Obviously the holding tank was not emptied out. Those are deal breakers!

One of the great things about the BVI is that it provides some smaller boutique charter ops with excellent boats and top notch customer service as a alternative to the large fleets that seem to have more issues. Deepcut mentions TMM which is an excellent company - some like BVI Yacht Charters as well and also Conch which has very well maintained slightly older boats at a great value.

Thanks janeoc and CarolinaSailor (for answering my question on the covid thread).

Our kids have been snorkeling almost as long as they have been able to walk so I think they'll be ok there, but sure don't want to wear them out with a long swim. I need to work harder to think of more ways to keep them engaged while sailing. I wish they liked it more than they do, but on the other hand am grateful that they do like it some. They are definitely excited about this trip!

Although my kids are pretty strong swimmers and snorkelers, after considering our options, I'm thinking it may be good to visit the Baths by car as part of a fuller day of checking out Virgin Gorda including the Hog Heaven bar. I found this from a thread a few years ago:

"Car rental is for 24 hours. So we typically arrive at Leverick by 3pm or so. Get a rental car and head to Coco Maya for dinner. Next morning, we head to the baths for breakfast and to enjoy the baths. We enjoy the views all the way there. After the baths, you can take in some other sites - we've stopped at Coppermine Point, Spanish Town (to pick up supplies), Savannah Bay, some ruins on the way to Hog Heaven (I believe in Nail bay?) and the final stop before heading back to Leverick, Hog Heaven"

Is this still recommended? Is Leverick Bay the best place to get a mooring to do this plan? Can I leave the rental car parked overnight at LB Resort and Marina since I'll have a mooring ball there? The 2022 Cruising Guide says the Top of the Baths restaurant is closed, but the website says it's open ... can anyone confirm? Would you recommend Mad Dog's over Top of the Baths?

Is it better to do the Baths early in the morning or late in the afternoon?

what day? watch the cruise ship schedule.

Definitely not Thursday June 23! That's the day two different cruise ships are in RT.

We are spending our first night (night of Friday 17) at Norman after our check out sail and that is the only thing that is set at this point. I am guessing somewhere in the Monday-Wednesday range depending on how long we spend at Norman-Peter-Cooper before heading to VG (or Trellis/Marina Cay area).

Looks like you found one of my past posts.

We haven't been since 2016 but will be going in July and we'll probably do the same thing. Being able to make some extra stops and sight see is great and Coco Maya is a favorite. We've never had a problem leaving the car at leverick. If you drive, you just need to be sure to bring your cruising permit as that is what will get you into the baths without paying the fee.

We rented a jeep from L & S last summer and will do the same this July. They keep a few vehicles at Leverick Bay. Good tip about the cruising permit, thanks.

Where do we check cruise ship schedules

At the top of this page, BVI Cruise Schedule

our route is go to Leverick with boat, take taxi to Baths in afternoon and Coco Maya that same night (make sure CM is open that night). If there, cruise ships are usually gone by late afternoon and you have the Baths to yourself.

Our taxi driver is Sweet Ice Willie or something like that. You can find a taxi driver at Leverick

Baths 330
Bar at top 500-530
Coco Maya 600 for drinks
Dinner 630 and watch sunset

taxi driver takes you back to Leverick

Make sure you enable cookies for the BVI Cruise Schedule, or you won't see the schedule.

Just a few suggestions/thoughts-

Yes, to Mad Dogs vs the Baths for lunch!
Unless you want to waste half your day, I would stop at Hog Heaven for a drink only. The view is incredible but really, the food is just OK and it takes FOREVER.
Check out the Blue Rush watersports guys right on the beach at Leverick. Your kids may enjoy taking the jet skis out for an hour. They will also drop off SUP's at any beach for you.
If Coco Maya isn't open when you are there or doesn't line up with your schedule, The Restaurant Upstairs at Leverick is wonderful. While we love CM, Leverick is actually our favorite.
Do yourself a favor and as you pass through Spanishtown, stop at Dixies and pick up some fried chicken! Usually sold out by early afternoon.
Don't spend all your time at The Baths. Head over to Spring Bay. Your kids will love jumping off the big rock. My boys could, (and sometimes DO) spend all day there. You will see other people jumping off that rock usually. Don't let your kids attempt any other ones there! Trust me when I say I have been running after my boys on those rocks for years and that is the only one I feel comfortable with them jumping off of.

Swimming in to Baths can be a significant challenge to some, sometimes with significant currents (and it is longer than it appears).

This is a great way to do it. 1st, Yes, you can leave car at LBM overnight.

DO check Cruise line schedule and if they are coming, arrange your schedule accordingly... going earlier or later. Top of Bathes is open (at least for lunch...not sure about dinner. I suggest taking a change of clothes in case you feel need to change, depending on itinerary.....

Your car rental will be for "24 hours" so you can arrange to start anytime... confirm they are on the way(or car there) same day.

Thanks for all the suggestions everyone. This is great information!

We are leaning against Anegada. We have enough time but this is our first trip and there is so much to do and see without going there. Don't get me wrong, I'd like to do it for the adventure of the sail alone, but the idea makes my wife nervous, and sometimes you just got to know when to push the family hard and when it's better to just chill out when everyone is already in a happy place. So we'll likely leave it for next time! (not promising I won't change my mind on this lol).

But here's another idea I'd like to get feedback on. We head out for Norman on our first day (the check out sail day) on a Friday. Cooper is on our list, so logically it's the next stop, which would put us there on a Saturday night. Which is the same night all the usual weekend charter starters and charter enders will be there, and it is already by all accounts the hardest mooring ball to get by either BoatyBall or FCFS. So I started thinking of a doing a clock-wise route to get offset from the rest of the weekend-start crowd. Then I thought better of it - conventional wisdom is what it is for a reason, even in summer, so a first-timer especially should heed it.

Then I got another idea. What about going directly from Norman to JVD and spending 2-3 days there and CGB (so just the downwind first leg of the clockwise route), and then backtrack sail to Cooper on Monday or Tuesday when it is less crowded (which is a finish leg on typical routes)? And from there on to Marina Cay, North Sound, etc. I think our kids might like the Jumbies beach BBQ on Friday night, and this is the only way we could do that, but that hardly seems like an event to plan your entire itinerary around. But I do like the idea of being a bit less with-the-crowd. Am I overthinking this for June, when it's not as crowded anyway?

skip Cooper and go to Anegada. might check on the Jumbie dates. Could be done by June.

Like Jason I would skip Cooper. I honestly don’t understand what the draw is and every time we have overnighted there we have been back winded. It is off our list. I wouldn’t plan an entire itinerary around it. But, to each their own.

I guess there are two things drawing us to Cooper. One is that it seems to be a popular stop with kids, for whatever reason. The other is as a local base from which to do the Wreck on the Rhone. I know that's supposed to be an incredible scuba dive, but wondering if we should skip it since we are snorkelers and only part of it is in shallow water. On the other hand I know we're going to snorkel with a lot of amazing sea life on this trip, and thought my son would get a kick out of a real ship wreck.

But let's say we completely skip Cooper. Nutty idea to go Norman to JVD first, and then backtrack to SFD Channel to points beyond, in order to set yourself off from the crowds (in June)?

I think Cooper is popular with kids that can drink….. a day with Sherwin in Anegada would trump Cooper and snorkeling the Rhône for my crew. We are divers - did the Rhône. It was fine to do as a dive (once) to say we did it. I don’t know how much you can really take in snorkeling. We don’t visit the BVI for snorkeling and diving (although we do a little of both while there). Sharkplaneo and the Dogs would probably be more fun for the kids if you have a calm day and good viz. I would head to North Sound from Norman - long day but doable. Then do Baths via taxi from there, head to Anegada and then JVD.

The rhone is still pretty cool to see snorkeling. Assuming not a lot has changed since 2016. We even had a friend who swam down to the stern and through the swim through by the prop and back up. Not something I'd recommend.

Ha! you guys are awesome. Anegada is back on the table. After all the variations and considerations I find myself coming back to almost exactly the itinerary from Rush early on this thread ...

Day 0: Miami-STT-ferry-Nanny Cay (last second provisioning, sleep on boat)
Day 1: Norman (check-out sail day, docking/mooring practice, unknown start and finish time)
2: Norman (snorkel Caves and Indians, hike, Pirate's and/or Willy-T's)
3: Sail a long close reach to Leverick or Blunder Bay (Saba, Bitter end)
4: Another day/night in the North Sound - rent a car/taxi at Leverick for Baths hike/snorkel, Coco Maya, MadDog's, Hog Heaven, Nail Bay, etc.
5: Sail to Anegada (weather/wife/Horizon-approval dependent!) Rent moke/truck. Cow Wreck/Tipsy's. Lobster dinner at Wonky Dog.
6: Sail to Marina Cay - Consider docking at marina for a refresher day/night, or get a ball at Marina Cay and snorkel Diamond Reef.
7***. Motor to Monkey point for a snorkel. Quiet night at White Bay Guana Island. Or Go to Cane Garden Bay.
8. Go to Diamond Cay/Little Jost (Sandy Spit, Bubbly Pool, Foxy's Taboo, B-line)
9. Great Harbor. Spend day at White Bay (Soggy Dollar), dinner in Great Harbor
10. Early sail back to base.

*** two cruise ships in RT day

Thinking Guana and Monkey Point should be impervious to the cruise ship crowds.

Variations:
Could move everything up a day if there is enough time to do the Day 2 Norman activities on Day 1.
Could Sail for Leverick on Day 2 and return to Norman on Day 9 for Indians etc and a shorter return to base on Day 10.
If Anegada is out, visit Eustatia/Oil Nut, spend another day in North Sound, or snorkel the Dogs and/or Sharkplaneo.

That's really packing it in huh!?! I'll be impressed if we get half of that list completed lol. So excited! Thanks for all the feedback!

A couple other things to consider…on the way from Leverick stop in the bond at Radas and next door at Gunnies . We love the local spots…also on Anegada consider Sherwin for an incredible adventure

Thanks I'll make a note about Gunnies.

Is Sherwin a guide out to the conch islands? I know that is supposed to be an incredible time (we are both marine scientists) and we would love to do it but this itinerary just has us in Anegada for 1 night. And we can't not go to Cow wreck and stand on the beach and soak that in. We are beach people.

Isn't a guided tour of any kind on Anegada something you can really only do with two nights? I don't see us arriving until just before lunch. Mooring, eat lunch, make the dinner reservation and get car/driver to beach, spend afternoon at beach, return to boat for clean up, go out to lobster dinner, sail out the next morning ... when do we do a tour?

Believe me, I've read every 'one night vs. two nights on Anegada' thread on this forum, but at this point just making it there for one night will be an accomplishment. Might have to leave the conch tour for next time. Or just decide to stay two nights if we all fall in love with the place!

Yes, you are right. Sherwin's tour is about 3 1/2 hours long out to conch island with some snorkelling. Rent a moke and explore the island on your own this trip. Gives you a great reason to return for two days. We usually get there by noon, use the first afternoon for a tour with Sherwin, and have a vehicle the second day to explore and see different beaches. Then do dinner at one of the local eateries.

Thanks CarolinaSailor (I first sailed a Hobie Cat spending summers on the Isle of Palms!). They say mokes are 4 person vehicles. We are 5: DW and I up front, kids (13, 11, 9) in the back. Will they rent a moke to us?

Nope. BVI legal rental limitation of 4 per moke for safety reasons. You can check as they do have larger vehicles. Definitely plan in advance (call them) to ensure something is available. Several rental companies on island.

L&H has an SUV - we rented it one day when our Moke would not start (last Moke - ugh!)

Guana only has 5 overnight balls. The one closest to Monkey Point is the best - the others are way to close together for my comfort. So beautiful there.

Got 8 in (and on)my 1965 Moke one day in Spain!

If I recall however you said they were all models who were probably 5’10” and 105 lbs! You can fit a lot of sticks in a Moke!

I usually take 7-8 college kids in June out on the boat...some thoughts IMHO

1) You could stay at one place for the whole time and they would have a blast...i always have to slow it down per their request and save some for later
2) I always ask them what they would do differently and they always say they wish they had more time
3) Last trip of 14 days-I asked If you had one more day where would you go back to (A Cane Garden Bay). One less day cut what (A Cooper Island)
4) Get noodles for snorkeling for floatation and visibility especially out on Anegada reef with Sherwin or Kelly
5) I like your idea of starting and ending at Norman for a quicker sail back...or 2 days in Anegada which you keep hearing lol
6) My son is a marine scientist and his favorite part is the day trip to Anegada reef (we use Kelly but either is fine)
7) Besides weather check your north swell if at certain spots (Guana, CGB) https://marine.weather.gov/MapClick.php?zoneid=amz715#.YpITtijMJ3j
8) At Monkey Point Guana have 1 person go in person to the dinghy line and check snorkeling conditions before everyone gets in, It can be hit or miss
9) After Wonky Dog head over to Potters for night life
10) Diamond Cay is great call...
11) Bring some pennants the kids can sign and post. We still have college flags at Cow Wreck from one of our kids trips

Hope you make it to Anegada...our first time I navigated up using Walkers chart and was very stressed because I knew we couldn't see it and didn't want to miss it...about 1/2 way up we looked back and realized we could see Gorda peak the whole way up...duh

Do you have Scotts Guide to cruising the BVI? I give that to the kids in advance with the itinerary so they can read about what you are going to do. I can also send you my expanded trip plan and essential items to bring for past years if you want

Have a great time

Cooper is a great place to visit during mid to low season (when they're open) for a couple or smaller party. They have always been very accommodating to us. Great drinks and the food has always been excellent. I do agree the mooring field is often back winded. I was literally up every hour trip before last. (It was still worth the visit!). As popular as they are, they are doing some things right. JMO

Sherwin is like an Anegada historian and has done a ton of fishing himself in the past. You would love love a trip with him given your backgrounds. I would try to make that happen ! He does morning and afternoon trips. The fresh conch and his special sauce were incredible.

****** Or just decide to stay two nights if we all fall in love with the place!******

MANY sailors do !!

Cooper and the CIBC are nice, but sunset from almost any other place is nice, too. After a bad night of back-winded mayhem in the mooring field, suffice to say there is NO MOORING FIELD worth that chaos at oh dark thirty. Sunrise from Cooper cannot settle that bill.

Having been in the BVI more than once, I'd beat feet to North Sound AFAP for first overnight, yes it is doable, but might not comfortable too stretch that far without experienced sailors aboard. Next day strike off for Anegada. At least 2 nights at Anegada, if for no other reason than that is kicking back and resetting your understanding and appreciation for yourself and those you care about. Some drift snorkeling somewhere @ Loblolly Bay, a Dinner at Wonky, some cocktails somewhere in between Flash of Beauty and the boat and a couple of close-hauled evenings in the cockpit with people you really like. That could be just the first 3 nights, and by this time of year, one can probably charter 10 days for the price of 7. Just ask nicely about it.

So, 3 nights down and you get to sail from Anegada to Cane Garden Bay. If there isn't a sea running, CGB is a perfectly wonderful LONG crescent beach mooring field. You'll find out about VI roosters and chickens, excellent food, seems like more than a mile of white sand for small and tall people, and yeah, a fuel dock with water. A couple nights there isn't in the boring column.

Itchy feet from there, cast off the mooring and just motor over to Jost. We like Little Harbor. Great Harbor is also awesome. Take a taxi to White Bay if you need to be entertained, taxi back to the boat, and make acquaintance with
Harris' Place for dinner . Take another night at Jost, just for the memories. Explore Great Harbor, and Foxy's before you leave. it's usually a sporty sail through the cut to the Bight @ Norman Island . We like taking a ball under Water Point ( to port) on the way in, because the no-stress snorkeling on that aspect of the bay is way more reliable than at the Indians or the Caves. That would be night 8, and next day might be a good time for " should we stay or go." If you go, go on past Cooper to Peter Island. Last night is traditional " shipwreck party" when you try to use up all the provisions you've opened, but not finished off. At that point, you are an hour forty five or thereabouts from any charter company dock, so get yourself queued up for the sad return.

Then you turn in the boat, canvass the crew for next years dates, and prepare to do it all again.

Do 2 nights on Anegada and add in a trip with Sherwin. If you are going to sail all the way out there, might as well enjoy it. So that would be Day 5 and Day 6.

Then for Day 7 you can sail to Marina Cay and snorkel Diamond Reef. In the morning of 8, snorkel Monkey Point on your way to Jost

I am not sure I get the back winding comments. There are a couple of balls that might be to close together but if if boats were to touch it’s going to be a gentle tap. There are plenty of balls where it’s a non issue. I have spent a lot of nights there and always slept fine and never touched another boat.

George - with all the 50+ foot boats now in fleets it is getting tight. There are plenty of moorings fields I am less than comfortable with now and have been choosing to anchor more than less. Back winding also stinks as the darn ball bangs on the hulls all night and not even noise cancelling headphones help. Cooper, especially, just isn’t worth it. At least for us.

I posted this before but the solution to the ball banging on the hull is easy and also helps with swinging room at Cooper. Bring the ball pendant to one bow cleat and tie it off. Run the line from the other bow cleat directly to the ball and back. The ball is now trapped between the hulls and can’t reach either one to bang on the hull.

We tie directly to the ball in some fields to minimize banging (does the same thing your illustration does). We have found that it is too difficult to tie to the ball with Boaty Balls - only FCFS balls work. Regardless CIBC is not the place for us.

We have been coming down since 2011. Only place we have had issues with "bumping" was three times, all at Cooper. Every time was on windless nights where all the boats just drifted around how they pleased. The one time we had a "bump" and the close calls were all with our Cat and a Mono, the other two times were just "VERY" close calls. I noticed the monos did their own thing and the cats, theirs. Granted we were first on our Leopard 42 and now on our Leopard 45 and not a 50 or plus Cat that may have different issues. Seems all the cats pretty much remained in line with each other. We have never had that issue at Marina Key, Trellis, North Sound, Great Harbor, West End or Anegada.

It’s easy if you jump in the dinghy to run the second line.

Not that I'd ever want to wade into a 'How to Tie the Boat to a Mooring" debate (too much like the What's the Best Anchor or Best Point of Sail debates), but really? I need to launch the dinghy to hook up to a mooring ball "properly" now? All so the ball won't bang? If I thought the Catch the Mooring Ball show was entertaining before, I can't wait to see how having one line to the ball, then launching the dinghy to hook up line 2 goes - forget about the ensuing yelling between person at the helm and the dinghy. Or maybe I'll get impressed with the skill and grace of that yacht crew - but I wouldn't bet money on it.

And all this negates the fact that the bridle - the actual triangle formed by a proper bridle - is there to minimize the sailing that a catamaran (my primary boat) does when on a ball in a breeze. And the desire for a snubbing effect created by that shape (yeah, I know, that's what the painter is for some argue).

The goal is to get the ball smoothly, effectively, and securely. Having seen how my generally inexperienced crews do with the "traditional" techniques (which sometimes make me want to grab the ball by myself - and yes I can), I don't foresee any of them jumping in a dinghy to secure the second line. Nor do I see myself ever allowing it - given I am responsible for everyone's safety.

To each their own, obviously. But I am with MIDiver - there is not one of these bays that is so nice that if I don't like the setup that I won't go someplace else. YMMV

Keep Smiling!!!

Thank you- there is a cruise ship scheduled on June 9th during our trip- Where do we need to go to avoid them. this is probably my 10th charter and never have seen a cruise ship UGH!!
thanks so much

official schedule

Tying the second line with the dinghy is not exactly hard and you do create a proper triangle. The only time it’s necessary is when there is either zero wind or where you might be backwinded. The dinghy is used for about 20 seconds to run the second line through the ball if the ball can’t be reached from the cross bar. Not sure why it would be entertaining to watch. The boat is already on the Mooring.

We have the same issue for our upcoming trip in June...The Disney Fantasy is in port one day ...I looked at their day-trip options and they will be all over. There is one place they will not be though...ANEGADA. We chose Anegada for the day that the ship was in port so we could stay far away. :-)

Safe travels!

Pretty cheeky of y'all to come on a first-timers thread and joke about the "Catch the Mooring Ball Show" :P hopefully we won't be the ones providing you with entertainment every afternoon!

Lot of good suggestions here, thanks to all. bailau I would be interested to see your lists.

Went over the itinerary with the wife and kids yesterday. Lots of excitement. Wife eye-rolled a bit with Anegada coming back into the plans, but got no rejection. But she was WTH when I told her we probably couldn't have time for the conch tour, a valid point, so my guess is we go for to Anegada for two nights or not at all. I think a lot will be clearer after the sail from Norman's to Leverick on Day 3. If the wind is right for a nice leisurely reach on a single tack, I know I'll have a much easier time getting my crew excited about a second relatively long sail than if going up the SFDC involves a lot of tacking and bashing, where I may be the only one smiling. If that happens, the backup plan may be pulling into Marina Cay or Scrub Island on Day 3 and adjusting itinerary accordingly. But who knows - the charter boat is going to be so much bigger and more comfortable but also a lot slower than the boat we are used to.


I checked with Leverick's and Jumbie's BBQ runs through June but we probably wont' be there on Friday. Thought we'd catch Michael Beans but he just finished the season.


Jason's link tells you the days cruise ships are in Roadtown. There's a Celebrity cruise when you are there, same as us two weeks later. Go to the BVI excursions web page for Celebrity and they show trips to scuba the Rhone, snorkel Caves/Indians, the Baths, Jost Van Dyke, in addition to some overland trips on Tortola including Cane Garden Bay.

Exactly! Maybe we'll see you there!

I became a fan of timing directly to ball (especially Boatyball due to it's higher profile) especially at Cooper island due to it's notorious backwinding, putting boats at risk of minor bumping each other. Also the aggravating noise from ball hitting hulls.

I would not use this technique if significant weather is forecasted.

The technique is very simple. First grab ball in usual manner and then move the lines to the mooring itself. I have done it alone in dinghy and have also had mermaids jump in.

Cruise ships are really no big deal...not hard to avoid where they will be and schedule around them

OP I PM'ed you my email

It's an easy point of sail to Anegada, whether you go from North Sound, or from Marina Cay/Scrub. Same time frame either way. Be sure of your heading so you don't miss.

Like Deepcut we tie to ball in traditional manner and then take dinghy out to rerun lines one at a time to ball. Works well except that some of the Boaty Balls just don’t have enough room for two ropes to do a direct tie to the ball - depends on the ball.

Do the mermaids help you too? I never get that kind of help

Deepcut must be a mermaid whisperer.

I’m probably wrong, but isn’t Deepcut your husband?

If you are asking me, no I can’t claim him. 😎

We enjoy heading out as a family on kayaks and paddleboards. We live on a canal and have a two person kayak and 3 paddleboards for our five. But that's a lot of space on deck as well as a large chunk of change. We usually take no more than one when we go sailing on our tri, and there is plenty of room to tie it down on the nets. What is the right number of paddleboards/kayaks for a 41' monohull? Assuming they get tied to the lifelines? How often are conditions right for using them (i.e. wind is calm enough for kids not to get blown away)?

I am thinking one or two paddleboards, or a single kayak. The price for a paddleboard for a week is about the same price as buying an inflatable on amazon. Any experience with checking one of these in luggage and bringing it back home afterwards? I can tell you that inflating that thing and getting it stowed away on our first night is not something I would look forward to, but seems doable.

Many people like paddle boarding, but my preference is a two-person kayak, which is more stable if the wind picks up or in the wake of a boat.

June 9 is a two cruise ship day with 7,000 visitors. The Baths, Brewer's, CGB and maybe Smugglers will be packed. I have not seen many excursions at Diamond Reef, so you might try that. Then consider anchoring overnight in Lee Bay.

Oil Nut marina rents kayaks now. Just in case you were stopping there. Our last trip they even told us if the weather was calm we could take them to BEYC or Saba and then they would send someone to pick us up. Sounded so fun but sadly they shut down with a covid outbreak the week were supposed to do it.

we go out with 2 paddleboards...used to take a kayak as well but nobody used

latest cool item is swimming mat which doubles as floating bar

We are planning to bring our own PFDs that we always wear when sailing. My wife and I have inflatables. TSA and FAA regulations allowed these to be carried on board or checked. Has anyone ever had a problem doing this flying AA to STT?

You won’t have any problem with AA. The TSA side may or may not be a issue. I print a copy of the TSA rules allowing the inflatable preservers. So far every time they balked I showed them their rules and they let me through.
G

OK thanks I printed up the rules so hopefully will work for me too.

Suggest asking to have a second boat hook on board -- they don't always float......

hmmm, yes I can see losing that being a problem!

should I also rent a dinghy ladder? We are planning to do the Baths by car, but could be useful at the Indians and other snorkel spots. I am pretty fit but have never tried climbing back into a Zodiac from the water.

We are planning to carry a large amount of cash for mooring fees, restaurants, and incidentals. Pretty much to pay for everything there, as I have heard that credit card fraud is a problem so use it as little as possible. Does everyone just stash their cash somewhere below? My wife is worried about this. AFAIK people entering charter boats to steal while you are away is unheard of.

you have teenagers...they are your dinghy ladder. They get in first and then help everyone in or push you in. That is why your wife birthed them so they can help you in the islands and possibly mow the grass at home

get noodles there for swimming and visability while snorkeling

never seen crime there but spread out cash...never had credit card fraud either. Biggest issue is some restaurants (e.g. Pirates) charge a "service fee" and then leave a place for tip so make sure you bring your reading glasses

get small colored trash bags for the heads and to wrap on your dinghy so you recognize it after some of the bars. I suggest as pink as no one steals a dinghy with pink on t he handles

Most of all relax...you will be fine and you can always hop on here mid trip (pot calling kettle...LOL)

Our charter company supplies dinghy ladders - check with yours. My girls would probably dislocate my shoulders yanking me in the boat so glad we have one - lol.

We have been fortunate to be in the BVI many times this past year. We use credit cards for all provisioning and vendors as well as restaurants - have never had an issue. We take cash for tips and paying for misc mooring fees when not anchoring or somewhere where we can easily pay by cc, and for ice and trash pick up.

I have taken the dinghy painter, run it thru the eyes in the dinghy floor, over the sides and back to make a handy stirrup for crew to climb aboard. Works well, but MUCH easier if someone is aboard to hold the line and offer an extra hand to those climbing aboard.

Same as others, never had a problem with CCs on the island (we use a dedicated one in case there is an issue), and use cash for tips, ice, trash, mooring fees, and that guy who brings me empanadas in Great Harbour (now I'm hungry!).

Keep Smiling!!!

We bring a Davis Stirrup Swim Step with us e.g.

https://www.westmarine.com/buy/davis-instruments--stirrup-swim-ladder--142218

We tie it to the dinghy (somewhere strong). The trick is to make it the right length. It is light and works for us but is still a bit of a struggle.

Once the boat we chartered had a “stainless” dinghy ladder included. Turned out to be very badly rusted and broke. We were lucky to avoid a nasty injury from the sharp parts. So inspect carefully.

Peter

Maybe give this dinghy entry method a try:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZuQ64DO1MhQ

Dan

I am one of the unfortunate ones that has had my CC info stolen 3 separate trips. I am however of the mindset that it happened in STT not the BVI though as I am usually out of cash by the time we fly home. So it can, and does happen somewhere along the way. Now I bring more cash than I think I need (and of course still end up blowing it).

Guess you folks have already answered all my prep questions because I haven't had any over the past week. Thanks so much! We couldn't be more excited. Leaving Miami for BVI tomorrow!

Close enough now that weather forecasts are meaningful. We are doing a "long" sail from Norman to Leverick on Sunday according to our itinerary, but could move it up to Saturday and spend more time around Norman at the end of the cruise. According to Windy, Saturday's forecast is about 10 knots out of SE, so should be over the beam. Sunday's forecast is for east winds at about 15 knots, so more on the nose and beating up the SFD channel. Sound like a good reason to choose Saturday with a young inexperienced crew, or not really much different?

Any other tips for that sail ... e.g. stay in the middle of the channel or hug the windward side (if not tacking up the channel)?

You will probably be tacking from Norman to North Sound. Here are couple of options I have used.
1. Sail till around noon, see where you are at, then motor.
2. Motor sail up to Dogs, enjoy lunch/dip, sail from there into North Sound.

Its a great run.

If I am in a hurry from Norman to the NS I motor up the SFD to about Cooper. From there it’s a great sail reaching out past the dogs and then a tack into the Mosquito point entrance or several tacks to the main entrance. Tacking up the SFD in a cat can be tough with the slight current working against you.

Thanks for the feedback. We'll be in a mono, perhaps it will claw it's way upwind a little better. Either way it will be quite the change from our usual tri!

The pass between Moskito island and VG is off limits by our charter company. We'll be taking the long way in.

Mono changes the SFD part. It’s considered a great place to be close hauled. If time limited maybe motor to Peter. Should be able to lay the dogs from there.
G

When heading for the main North Sound entrance, our experience has been that once you pass Mountain Point you have two choices:
1 - Start the motor in order to turn more eastward and follow the coast of Mosquito Island, or...
2 - Keep on sailing, which involves going considerably farther north to line up a tack into the North Sound.

We're usually a bit impatient to get to our destination, and choose option 1. Even so, I resist the temptation to round Mosquito Rock closely. Doing so puts you right next to Colquhoun Reef for its entire length, where one unexpected problem (e.g. your engine dies) could quickly land you on the reef. So I continue some distance past Mosquito Rock before making a right turn toward the entrance markers.

By the way, our trips have mostly been in winter, when the wind tends to be a bit more northerly.

Dan