Posted By: baycruisers
Our Trip Report - 05/27/2018 03:37 PM
So, we had a great trip to Saint Martin and are already talking about returning next year. The island is slowly recovering, with the Dutch side much further than parts of the French side. According to some of the locals, politics is delaying French-side recovery. Our rental car agent told us the cost for repairing the airport is far more than it cost to build it originally. The airport radar dome is still clearly damaged. Yet, the airport continues to function inside a large tent and I have to hand it to them--they have been very resourceful and resilient in getting visitors in and out of the island. They even have small food kiosks inside the airport for departing passengers. We saw a steady stream of flights in and out and our flights were full. Frankly, I was impressed, but it could be a choke point for recovery until they get PJIA rebuilt, and they're not replacing the roof until after hurricane season.
Club Orient looks like a war zone. They say they will reopen next winter, but they have a long way to go and I'm skeptical. We saw no construction activity, but they have cleared out much of the damage and debris. The units are empty shells, but the foundations appear intact. Surprising to me, most of the units did not appear to sustain much roof damage. I'm guessing they were destroyed by storm surge. Papagayo is on the verge of collapse and the chalets were lifted off their foundations, and the office/boutique is empty. Just getting their infrastructure up and running will be a huge challenge.
So, they have many months of work to do and apparently, no money to do it with. We counted ~25 Club O umbrellas most days, with additional visitors on the beach, but it was nothing like years past. My rough math suggests that they're probably bringing in just enough money to pay their skeleton staff and maintain a presence. Still, the staff at Perch Lite and on the beach were cordial and upbeat, just as they were everywhere else we visited.
Further up the beach, Chez Leandra served a limited menu of pretty good food, and another beach place is supposed to be opening soon. The windsurfing concession was very active, probably because it was pretty windy all week. Otherwise, Orient Beach was quiet. One of the cruises bused in visitors, but they stayed near the rocks at Pedro's. No gawkers where we were at Club O's section.
Orient Village is coming back. Several upscale restaurants are open, but didn't see a lot of guests. The Petit Casino convenience store is still under reconstruction. There are two new bars next to it that were busy with locals the one evening we visited. There are other small businesses (e.g., pizza) open as well. We saw relatively little damage to homes in OV, perhaps because the owners could afford to repair it. Esmeralda is closed.
We talked to the proprietor of Sexy Fruits in Grand Case. One arm was still in a cast from injuries (broken ribs and leg) she suffered in September. She was thrilled she could finally fly home to visit family in France. Like others we chatted with, she had lost her home, but seemed grateful to have a job and place to live.
Grand Case, where we stayed, is about 50% recovered. Grand Case Beach Club is actively being rebuilt. Some of the upscale restaurants are open for business, as are the lolos and a couple bars. Other restaurants (Calmos Cafe) are gone. The main street is torn up due to laying cable, as I understand it, and we saw workmen doing electrical work. In other places, there were power poles draped with severed cables. My favorite pizza place (Villa Pizza in Cul de Sac) was completely gone, which I found very sad, after so many visits. We found a very nice deli/bakery called L'Express in CDS that had wonderful sandwiches, pizza, pastries and desserts. We ate there several times. Super U grocery store in Marigot was our go-to and unchanged from last year, but the McDonald's next to it was still being rebuilt.
Roads and streets were normal, potholes and all, but no signs of major damage in P'Burg, Marigot, Maho, etc.
P'Burg is essentially back to normal from what I could see, probably because they are Dutch and populated by wealthier business people who rely on cruise visitors. The jewelry stores, bars, restaurants, and boardwalk were thriving, as there were two cruise ships there.
So, my overall take is that the island has done an amazing job so far, with much left to do. I'm hoping they will take this opportunity to upgrade some of the outdated and vulnerable infrastructure and buildings to avoid another disaster.
Club Orient looks like a war zone. They say they will reopen next winter, but they have a long way to go and I'm skeptical. We saw no construction activity, but they have cleared out much of the damage and debris. The units are empty shells, but the foundations appear intact. Surprising to me, most of the units did not appear to sustain much roof damage. I'm guessing they were destroyed by storm surge. Papagayo is on the verge of collapse and the chalets were lifted off their foundations, and the office/boutique is empty. Just getting their infrastructure up and running will be a huge challenge.
So, they have many months of work to do and apparently, no money to do it with. We counted ~25 Club O umbrellas most days, with additional visitors on the beach, but it was nothing like years past. My rough math suggests that they're probably bringing in just enough money to pay their skeleton staff and maintain a presence. Still, the staff at Perch Lite and on the beach were cordial and upbeat, just as they were everywhere else we visited.
Further up the beach, Chez Leandra served a limited menu of pretty good food, and another beach place is supposed to be opening soon. The windsurfing concession was very active, probably because it was pretty windy all week. Otherwise, Orient Beach was quiet. One of the cruises bused in visitors, but they stayed near the rocks at Pedro's. No gawkers where we were at Club O's section.
Orient Village is coming back. Several upscale restaurants are open, but didn't see a lot of guests. The Petit Casino convenience store is still under reconstruction. There are two new bars next to it that were busy with locals the one evening we visited. There are other small businesses (e.g., pizza) open as well. We saw relatively little damage to homes in OV, perhaps because the owners could afford to repair it. Esmeralda is closed.
We talked to the proprietor of Sexy Fruits in Grand Case. One arm was still in a cast from injuries (broken ribs and leg) she suffered in September. She was thrilled she could finally fly home to visit family in France. Like others we chatted with, she had lost her home, but seemed grateful to have a job and place to live.
Grand Case, where we stayed, is about 50% recovered. Grand Case Beach Club is actively being rebuilt. Some of the upscale restaurants are open for business, as are the lolos and a couple bars. Other restaurants (Calmos Cafe) are gone. The main street is torn up due to laying cable, as I understand it, and we saw workmen doing electrical work. In other places, there were power poles draped with severed cables. My favorite pizza place (Villa Pizza in Cul de Sac) was completely gone, which I found very sad, after so many visits. We found a very nice deli/bakery called L'Express in CDS that had wonderful sandwiches, pizza, pastries and desserts. We ate there several times. Super U grocery store in Marigot was our go-to and unchanged from last year, but the McDonald's next to it was still being rebuilt.
Roads and streets were normal, potholes and all, but no signs of major damage in P'Burg, Marigot, Maho, etc.
P'Burg is essentially back to normal from what I could see, probably because they are Dutch and populated by wealthier business people who rely on cruise visitors. The jewelry stores, bars, restaurants, and boardwalk were thriving, as there were two cruise ships there.
So, my overall take is that the island has done an amazing job so far, with much left to do. I'm hoping they will take this opportunity to upgrade some of the outdated and vulnerable infrastructure and buildings to avoid another disaster.