BVI changes since last charter 12 years ago

Just returned from the BVI, where my first mate Suzanne and I chartered a monohull sailboat for 10 days (Horizon, 1/19-1/29) after an absence of 12 years. Here's a quick summary of the changes we noticed...

* Air service to EIS (Beef Island) isn't as convenient as it used to be when American Eagle was still servicing the San Juan-Tortola market. We decided to fly into STT, which proved to be time-consuming and rather costly due to adding an additional night onshore, taxis, ferries, etc. Next time we'll take another look at the current EIS options (Cape Air and Sunborne).

* Based on numerous warnings here, I expected anchorages to be more crowded. In fact they were less so than our previous trip -- which was however during the Christmas vacation, so perhaps that explains the difference. We had no trouble finding moorings in mid-January this year.

* Anegada is now a feasible destination thanks to the marked channel. It was strictly off limits on our last trip.

* Provisioning is a lot easier, thanks to the Riteway supermarket and Tico's, which offers a great selection of fine wines at reasonable prices.

* Restaurants are more expensive, but the quality of the cuisine has gone up, generally. The rebuilt/expanded Pirates Bight restaurant on Norman Island is an example.

Otherwise, things seemed much the same -- friendly people, fantastic sailing, great snorkeling, unforgettable beauty. We're already planning another trip in the next year or two.

Bryan & Suzanne
Charlottesville, VA

Willie T's upstairs wasn't finished off 12 years ago....I know...I know...there are a lot of other changes but....2003 was my first trip and when I read "12 years ago" it brought back memories of my first trip in June 2003.

Thanks Bryan for the update heading down in June - have not been down in 8 years and our first was 20 years ago this June, an anniversary of sorts! <img src="http://www.traveltalkonline.com/forums/images/graemlins/toast.gif" alt="" />

Matt

Bryan9 - you don't live far from me - I live in Bedford. I was just in your area a couple of weekends ago picking up a new car.

Fourteen trips since 1983. I remember walking from the Moorings across an empty field to the downtown area for coconut cake at the Sunrise Bakery. Cruise ships have been the biggest single change that I've seen, although I am very happy about holding tanks!

I'm heading back for the first time since January, 2000 and was wonder what changes have taken place. I was definitely a little curious how the build out of Scrub, Oil Nut Bay and the Marina down by Biras Creek may have changed the complexion.

Glad to hear the changes have not really changed anything.

Cheers,

Brendan

We also have just returned, and chartering since the early 90's. We remember Bert Kilbride, Lowell Wheatley and burgees hanging at the Bitter End. There seem to be more luxury yachts, less quaint pink and yellow buildings and more dingys speeding thru the anchorages. We prefer Billy Bones to the new Pirates, but love holding tanks on the boats. As long as there are the Nick and Monicas at Leverick we will continue to return. Change is inevitable,some changes are great and others not so great. Monos now are a minority, seems like less cruisers in the BVI's and more in the USVI,s. Seems like the push is for upscale eateries, I hope the "old island culture",doesn't change.o