Trip Report #5, amuse bouche

The is a preface an appetizer, if you will, of a trip report I will write later this evening if I can stay awake long enough after Maho.

A couple of points:

First (and I say this with the greatest respect and deference) I cannot imagine why anybody would ever, ever, want to go to Philipsburg.

Ever.

I had been advised, or suggested perhaps, that my kids would like an afternoon on Great Bay Beach. We went, and I would not wish this experience on Osama Bin Laden. Every three feet someone is trying to sell you chairs, or jet skis, or Segways. I am not good at crowds, in fact I have murdered a great number of people in crowds like this (oh dear, did I say that out loud?) in the past. So you go to the back street, and hawkers are trying to get you to enter their stores. I have no patience for this whatsoever. Sit on bench, think, think, calm, calm, breathe, breathe, think happy thoughts, no(!) killing. <pause> Though I do buy my best pal a nice Heineken Regatta long sleeve t-shirt at the Shipwreck Store (that Kim had to find lest I kill several bystanders).

I am trying to figure out the whole Philipsburg dynamic without being a completely judgemental [censored]. You are on a cruise ship. You pull into St Martin. Instead of choosing some day trip from the catalogue you think it would be better to shop all day for crap that neither you, nor anybody else, really needs. Have you considered getting a $150,000 Breitling lately? Honestly, you can get it much more easily, unless you’re keen on impressing your newest belle femme by devil-may-carelessly whipping out the black Amex. "And throw in a bag of loose jewels for the lady," you say.

Second, the drive from the pit of hell er, excuse me, “Philipsburg” to Simpson Bay, while congested, is glorious. But you want to be on your game. Traffic alternates between petrified tourists in the largest minivans Toyota has ever conceived, to immortals from ancient mythology who have chosen 2 stroke scooters as their earthly mode of transport.

Third, Sunset Beach Bar. It’s probably illegal to print gold bars made from tourists, but this is precisely what this place is doing. The most expensive drinks on the island, the greatest chance of observing a self-satisfied young lady standing at the bar with her completely non-enhanced frontal units eating french fries and drinking Presidente from the bottle.

I have to lighten up.

A swim at the villa, then napping, Then going to Maho (for the sake of a restless teenager). Probably Mexican food. More later.

This, thanks to adrenaline and Stoli, longer than intended.

We spend a month on island in March, so when we were there in November, we went to Great Bay Beach. I think we were the only ship in town. We got a couple chairs and umbrella, a bucket of beers and had a nice day on the beach. It certainly was not hell. Granted there were several people competing for our business, but I didn't think they were over the top.

You may want to consider Disney World for a more relaxing vacation <img src="http://www.traveltalkonline.com/forums/images/graemlins/jester.gif" alt="" />

I mean no offense, WWII. Just my gut response.

<img src="http://www.traveltalkonline.com/forums/images/graemlins/Laugh.gif" alt="" /> Truthfully, I don't enjoy P'Burg any more either. Used to love shopping in general. These days, can't stand shopping. Guess that must be it..

Ritchard,

Methinks somebody needs a nap or a drink or both? It happens, and even more often when trying to host those youngsters..... <img src="http://www.traveltalkonline.com/forums/images/graemlins/Grin.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://www.traveltalkonline.com/forums/images/graemlins/Grin.gif" alt="" />

Personally speaking, we always enjoy our shopping days in town even though I hate to 'shop' per se and really never buy very much of anything, but from years of experience and practical application, we know the P'berg ins and outs and do's and don'ts - we know to go very early before the shops open and have a pleasant and leisurely breakfast somewhere along the beach while we watch the town come alive.

We also know to check the cruise ship calendar before we head into town as anything over two ships is one too many for me. But we have friends of long standing who have businesses in town and it's always fun to catch up with them. We really don't consider Great Bay Beach to be a destination beach, but it is a place where you can eat, drink, beach it, shop, or even book and do the fabulous 12 Metre sailing excursion or any of a number of other great trips and activities that all originate out of P'berg.

And lastly, we know to beat feet out of town by noon at the latest so we can head back to our favorite beach or pool or bar or any combination of those three. P'berg isn't for the feint-hearted but we always enjoy our days in town so I'm sorry to hear it didn't work for you and your family. But I totally agree about the beach vendors across the island and the SSBAG - they just don't do it for us either.

Please keep the write ups coming as I think we're all enjoying your sense of humor, your ability to tell a story and your art of bringing us all along with you. Thank you..... <img src="http://www.traveltalkonline.com/forums/images/graemlins/handshake.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://www.traveltalkonline.com/forums/images/graemlins/handshake.gif" alt="" />

Carol. I still enjoy shopping <img src="http://www.traveltalkonline.com/forums/images/graemlins/Wink.gif" alt="" /> but Philipsburg just doesn't do it for me, esp since I'm not looking for diamonds hehe! Love going into little shops, maybe I should try Marigot? Expensive? Maho always means a stop at the shop that sells only white clothes - name escapes me!

I do apologize if that came off as overly grouchy. I am proud of being grouchy, but do not like to overdo anything.

Blanc du Nil. <img src="http://www.traveltalkonline.com/forums/images/graemlins/Grin.gif" alt="" />

Pat makes great points (doesn't she always?). Avoid lots of cruise ship days, have a plan, go early, get in/get out!! <img src="http://www.traveltalkonline.com/forums/images/graemlins/jester.gif" alt="" />

Love P-Burg for jewels, spices, hot sauces, misc goodies. People watching from a restaurant along the boardwalk. Never for a beach experience.

Your boys might love the 12-meter excursion.

Saturday isn't a busy cruise ship day.

SXM??? Wendell

Yeah, it's hot and crowded and there's no parking, etc., etc.. <img src="http://www.traveltalkonline.com/forums/images/graemlins/Grin.gif" alt="" /> I used to love it though.

I will comment that acrappy day in Phillipsbugh with Crowds Neat -14 degrees in Boston any day. Just pick a favorite Beach and let the Sand Gravity take over <img src="http://www.traveltalkonline.com/forums/images/graemlins/Clapping.gif" alt="" />

Your post made me laugh out loud. I will keep this in mind when I'm there in April. We are staying in Grand Case, and don't like the crowds, so we may just skip P'burg.

We have brought many a group to SXM, and on the list of all is always a trip to P-Burg, and I get bored with it so quickly. I have learned the trick of always stopping at Holland House for a quick beverage with the group, and before we leave, I tell everyone to meet back in 2.5 hours at this same Holland House for another after shopping cocktail. I am usually back at the Holland House within an hour. I used to love the ladybird cocktail there, but of late, no one knows what I mean by that anymore. The group tends to saunter in within the two to three hours of shopping. Jewelry, trinkets, and liquor purchases are what they are buying. And some expensive Robert Graham shirts by the one sharp dresser in our group.

Same thing with the Sunset Bar, I would rather spend my money elsewhere, but that is what the group always wants to do. They do have good apple pancakes there at the Sunset Bar if you want breakfast there, preferably before all the cruise ship people come in. And maybe stop in later so they can take pictures of the bigger planes coming in.

first,I'm loving your trip reports. Philipsburg. all fond memories for me. just chilling on the beach before our first windjammer sailed and mom gave me money to splurge and I bought a gold chain-and guavaberry-what was I thinking? another trip-trying to track down a video store that would sell me a copy of The Lunatic- before there was an amazon. searching for cd's .. all good in a touristy kitschy kind of way. Now I'm thinking you could send the boys out to the 12 metre regatta- from pburg

the Daily Herald listed 5 ships in today Saturday and 2 for tomorrow

You didn't come across as grouchy to me. We also avoid Pburg like the plague. Went there once several years ago and haven't gone back. Hated the crowds, the insistence of shopkeepers to 'come in, come in', and never found anything there that I wanted that I couldn't buy at home. We must have had a dozen hawkers ask us if we're 'American'. We must be easy targets. LOL! My hubby started telling people he was from (fill in the blank with various countries). <img src="http://www.traveltalkonline.com/forums/images/graemlins/jester.gif" alt="" />

We go for the beaches (not Great Bay), the food, and some relaxation. I personally don't find any of that in Pburg, but that's just me. Others seem to enjoy it. It's not our cup of tea.

Wow Patty that is alot for a Sat.

Wed. must be really crazy.

SXM??? Wendell

Love your writing style.
For what it's worth, we do Philipsburg for tee shirts that we usually leave behind when we go home, you know the cheap ones that are thin and dry quickly but shrink when washed.
Used to buy cigars there at either Emporium or Casa de Habana but now bring my own from home, Still go to Belgium Chocolates but remember we live in Hershey.PA so we know a little bit about chocolate. Antoines, great dinner but that is not a shopping thing, but still in Philipsburg.

We always check the cruise ship schedule before heading into P'Burg, know where we want to shop, and just ignore the hawkers. Been there twice on this trip and found it rather quiet; the first time hubby announced he no longer likes the beach there so that cut our time down. The second time was even shorter than the first, due to the fact I couldn't get any money out of an ATM machine. Two attempts resulted in zilch being dispensed and the third attempt resulted in a message that I had exceeded my daily limit. I wasn't very happy and any thought of shopping went out the window. Got back and called my friendly bank, collect, and got things sorted out. That's P'Burg for this year!

I believe you captured P'burg perfectly. In a perfect world, the French would close the border when the ships come in - (except of coarse, when I am on a cruise.)

In our 19 visits to SXM, we have been to Philipsburg twice. It’s not on the top of our list and if I never returned I would be ok with it.

On the other hand we have a soft spot for Sunset. On our first few visits to the island we stayed at the Caravanserai. It was easy for us to walk over to SSBB and grab a cocktail and light meal. It became the bar we’d stop at before heading out for the evening and for a nightcap on the way back. In the early years of our visits we would “run” into folks that we had met on other parts of the island again and again. From those “run-ins” we developed friendships, would gather and party there. The music was good, the friends better. We even hosted a very well attended Halloween party there once and gathered for several more.

Our last 4 stays on the Dutch side have been at Beachside Villas so once again Sunset is in the immediate vicinity and where watching the planes land still excites us from that location.

We also go to Driftwood but Sunset is normally our “go-to” for plane and people watching.

Having said this it has been 2 years since we’ve been to the island so we have not experienced the cruise ship crowds which could possible change our minds about our "go to" plane watching location.

We've been to St. Martin maybe 20 times now and have never been to Great Bay Beach. We always manage to spend a half day in Philipsburg, walking Front St., back street and the boardwalk. We park in the gated parking lot by The Greenhouse Restaurant. Always have found a spot. Costs maybe $3 for the half day, but if we eat at the Greenhouse they stamp our parking ticket and we get free parking. I enjoy photographing the city and architecture. We have met many great residents of SXM during our trips to Philipsburg. Most love to talk if they aren't busy and will share their history with you if you get them talking. Makes for many a great story for my blog. As for Sunset B&G, it used to be fun. I still love taking the photos of the planes, but we usually try to find a table we can share with someone and spend an hour or so talking with them. Most people will invite you to sit down with them if you ask politely. Have met people from all over the world at that place. Can't wait to return soon. You are keeping me informed and entertained for my daily dose of SXM even though I'm not there yet. Keep up the good work. Gotta go shovel the snow now.

Without getting personal, I think you are forgetting about the locals who make their living from selling jet skis and even the hawkers for timeshares. For many of the cruise people they have been locked on their ship and want these goods and services. This island is made up of people like these just trying to make a living. If this is not your bag, stay away (yes, I'm grouchy now)

Just kidding about closing the border - P'burg is one of the main life bloods of the island. Without the cruise ships the locals would have a very - as in negative - lifestyle. I believe the development of the boardwalk is a great addition to the town, and while I hate the annual shopping trip, it is better then a wife who gets bored laying on the beach day after day. I consider it a necessary evil to maintain a happy marriage.

mikeandsandy

Right on!
So many people on this board forget they are visitors to the island and St Maarten is here for the locals 365 days a year and should not change for their short stay.
If they do not like a certain area or certain things( loud music, motorcycles, vendors, etc they should avoid that and if it means going to another place then do so.
I also get grouchy when I read so many negative comments on the island and its people.

Yes, that is very unusual for a Saturday!!

12 meter yacht thing sounds like something your boys might like, Ritchard. That is---if you can muster up the strength to once again take on P'Burg.

Love your reports.

Perspective, perspective etc. I was going to pass on by and not comment on your view of Philipsburg because I do agree that we all have different tastes (which is why I do not like to pass on my likes and dislikes) What one loves, others do not share their perspective.

Now granted you went to Philipsburgh with a different agenda than most. Most visitors from cruise ships and TTOLer's go with the intention of buying jewelry or other souvenirs. I do agree that to get off a ship and walk around town all day and spend the day at Great Bay Beach is not my cup of tea. They truly are missing out many of the other fine qualities that the island has to offer. However, years ago I might have shared your view of this town, but for the past 6 years we stay in town and hang with the locals. In the a.m I get up and head to Salt Pond Rd to pick up fresh pastries and a newspaper from Carl & Sons, go for breakfast on Back St, get my haircut by Harvey on Back St., get my car washed at Sparkle, go to my Dentist on Front St., pick up a samosa near the gym and then head out of town to Orient Beach. At nights on occasion we head to Chesterfields for Happy Hour where Patricia and Claudette serve us and then it is off to anywhere we want to go. Sometimes it is The 12 Metre for a drink with Flo or the Greenhouse for fish tacos with Chrissie. We used to stay in Oyster Pond which was a long drive to Simpson Bay at night, but not so now from Philipsburg.

For us this location is one of the best as we do not feel like we are tourists. We love it when we are out walking around and locals always greet us with "Good Morning" which does not happen all that often back home. So for us we love Philipsburgh for many reasons ...most of them being the friends we know from here.

Two of ships yesterday were sailboats. Only two in to-day but it's raining-so far.

Moxie is sure right, over here in Orient it is raining like mad, and has been doing so for about three hours.

None taken, I 've been there in the heat on ahopping trip and couldn't wait to get out of there. It happens.

I used to love P'burg and making a foray into town every time we were in SXM. Over the years I have bought more earrings than I can ever wear - more rings than I have fingers and more chains than I can ever wear. My husband is a watch fan and has too many of those, as well. I never minded the shop owners trying to bring people into their stores - what always drove me crazy were the timeshare people. I understand that they were trying to make a living, but many times they just didn't give up!! In the early days we did go on some timeshare presentations that were supposed to be an hour long and ended up being 3+ hours!! We got some of the freebies back in the day and they were pretty good!! We did end up buying 2 timeshares, by the way... They are fewer now than in their heyday, which is probably a good thing.

It's very easy to solve the timeshare hawker problem. "I live here" does the trick every time.

Never tried that one!! We tried the we already own statement and that didn't work. Sometimes my husband would talk to them in Greek and that seemed to work! <img src="http://www.traveltalkonline.com/forums/images/graemlins/jester.gif" alt="" />

We try very hard to be polite to any of the folks who are trying to sell their wares, because they are just trying to make a living. A smile and "no thank you" usually goes a long way, and some will even thank you and make small talk. As annoying as it can be, I would never just ignore them; that's plain rude. I've had one or two who wouldn't take no for an answer, but they're the exception and not the norm.

yes, I agree - we were never rude - I am in sales and know what it's like to be spoken to rudely. but you are right - some just would not take no for an answer. We've had some that actually would follow us along the street and at a point you just need to be firm! I always loved the lottery ticket approach where we won money and it was usually a group of 2 or 3 timeshare sellers an they would be jumping up and down and so happy that we won - we just had to go to xyz to "claim" our prize!