Day 35 Porvenier, San Blas

Jan. 21, Porvenier
We left the anchorage early to head over to Porvenier to clear in to Panama, it was a good move as soon other boats arrived and the queue got longer and longer; Davi, one of the Yellow Shirts, was on hand to help with the process, one of the many nice things of being involved in the rally.

Some Kuna women come alongside in a dugout canoe to show the molas they have for sale

Once Dan and Em got back we took the dingy over to a nearby island that did not have any trees but a large number of huts and some buildings. A young boy waved us over to the dock behind his families hut and we followed a maze of paths through the small village.

The village of Washub Walla as seen from the dingy

There were a couple shops where we could restock on eggs and beer, and of course molas for sale everywhere. We found one young man who spoke fluent English and he led us to a bakery where some fresh rolls were bought and then to see one of the fishermen for some fresh lobsters. The lobster pen was very large, just a walled off section of the sea with chicken wire pens inside. We chose the ones we wanted and made our way back through the maze to go back to Skyelark. Before leaving I gave the young boy, who directed us in, and his sister each one of the small fishing kits I put together when I travel in the Caribbean.

The beach on Porvenier, the building overhanging the water in the back is one of the two hotels on the island

The plan was to eat lunch on Porvenier, there are two “hotels” on the island and also two restaurants. I can’t get over how relaxed and welcoming the people are here, always smiling and greeting you with “hola”. The restaurant didn’t have a large selection, just fried chicken and octopus, served with rice, beans and cole slaw. I am always on the lookout for octopus and was not disappointed; it had been stewed until very tender and mild.
After lunch we moved to the Lemon Cays, the entry is very tricky and although the electronic chart was not accurate, the guide book was; we made it safely at a very slow speed, a wrecked yacht lies on one of the reefs that line the entrance as a constant reminder that vigilance is required. Dan had read in a blog that internet was available on one of the islands so off we went in the dingy to find it. There were more WARC participants there and some other cruisers, so we sat around for a couple hours sharing stories and drinking beer, wine and rum and cokes until the sun started to set signaling time to return home.

Arvil with one of our dinner guests

We had the lobsters stored in Arvils mesh laundry bay over the back of the boat, a good technique as they were just a lively as when we purchased them. This time we boiled them in the pot rather than trying to cook them on the grill. It went fairly smooth, although I can’t say the lobsters enjoyed it; and they came out nicely done. Being such a busy day mostly everyone was ready for bed shortly after dinner; Robin and I stayed up for a while to have some Bligh in the cockpit while looking at the vast array of stars above.

Nice to see pictures of the Kuna. First truly different culture I'd met in all my travels.