Definitely by land. Rent a car at Leverick and see the whole island of VG and not just the baths. It's really spectacular. Its worth the trip just to have a beer at Hog Heaven.

I never liked visiting by sea. Swimming in can be downright dangerous when there is a surge, and landing a dinghy (back in the days when that was allowed) was also a pretty exciting and potentially dangerous proposition.

Also, something nobody ever seems to talk about, those moorings have a very high maintenance requirement because of the heavy winter surge. I've seen them in pretty bad shape, and I've heard of at least one incident over the years where someone picked one up and everyone lit out only for the line to part and the boat to wash ashore and sink. Basic seamanship would suggest someone competent remain onboard to avoid trouble. Not much fun sitting on a rolly boat while everyone else is onshore IMHO.