Sounds like you had a good trip overall with just a few hiccups along the way. You hit on several things I've learned I just can't handle--or at the very least not handle well. First is no A/C in common spaces. I've done it once or twice and always regretted it. Second is dealing with smokers when I'm trying to enjoy a nice dinner. I avoid places where there is a chance I might have to deal with that inconvenience. Lastly is service at Sale and Pepe. I enjoy their food but service leaves much to be desired. It's a shame as it's a lovely setting for dinner. The times I've been there it seems they cater more to locals at the expense of visitors. Thanks for the report as it was informative and an enjoyable read