The island is open, but you have to jump through a few hoops to get there. Many places are closed, but there are plenty that are open and could use your business if you are lucky to get there. I can’t speak for the French side but there are plenty of threads here that can give you updates on what is available. Quite a few of the things you mentioned are still around and available, so I would think that you could plan a trip that seems familiar to you.