For many years there has been "tickets" unless you have a park permit from you charter company (or forget it). There's a gate/booth house at the top and you stop to pay a few dollars. I think they actually did give us a ticket in March.
Now that tourism is picking up, I think they are offering an online option to ensure you get a spot for the day you want. Not sure what the capacity is to keep it COVID safe.
As mentioned, if you're arriving by dinghy no need to do anything because who would know you're there. If you plan to go up one path and down the other, bring your Park Permit so you don't have to pay.
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