June 8-30, 2021

A rambling and disjointed report that is not guaranteed as worthwhile.

Before this trip, our last land vacation on the island was in April 2017. We had been going once, occasionally twice, for many years. Between the effects of Irma and COVID, we endured a long gap in getting back to the island. We did have one day port of call stops in 2018 and 2019 off cruise ships, but that certainly was not the same as staying on the island.

This trip (22 nights) was the longest that we have done to SXM. I cannot remember exactly, but I think our longest stay before this was eleven days. One reason for the length was that between our last trip in 2017 and this one, we have almost completely retired from active law practice (still some consulting; we still carry the licenses and malpractice insurance for the primary reason, according to my wife and legal partner, that I cannot stop talking to people and giving advice). Another reason for the length of this stay was the desire to make up for some lost time.

Another change for this trip, apart from its length, was what we physically could do. Other than simply getting older, we now have some health issues, especially me. Whereas we routinely used to include Baie Rouge and Baie aux Prunes in our snorkeling trips, we only went once to Plum Bay and found the entry/exit a little too difficult. Baie Rouge was just too rough for us even to try. We did swim over to Green Cay off Orient twice, but the almost constant significant winds on Orient made it a little more challenging than we wanted.

The wife has always enjoyed snorkeling in Little Bay off the Divi beach and we spent even more time there. Entry/exit is as easy as it gets and, at least when we were there, Little Bay was very calm. Indeed, we saw many excursion boats, which normally would not stop in Little Bay, in the Bay near the Tiki Hut. (The Tiki Hut itself was not operating while we were there.) Snorkeling in Little Bay along the eastern side is enjoyable for us. We think the best snorkeling we have seen at SXM and enjoyed this trip is in the “far side” of Creole Rock and Anse Marcel point. Excellent coral growth in both places. But the Little Bay rocks are developing some decent coral growth and we enjoy our time in the water there.

COVID testing and entry to SXM: although we stressed a little, getting our tests done and Sint Maarten approval was very easy. We arranged for testing at a CVS pharmacy near us and it was very easy. They took our Medicare information and there was no charge to us. We did the nasal swab PCR test on June 3. We went to the pharmacy drive-through and we were instructed how to do the nasal swab by a NP at the window, who also observed what we did. We got the negative results back about 24 hours later. I immediately submitted the test results to the EHAS and we got our approvals within a couple hours. So, by late afternoon on June 4, we had all the paperwork we needed (I printed everything out as well as had results on phone) for our flight on Tuesday June 8.

When arriving in SXM, we were in a relatively short line, directed to show the paperwork (just the negative test paper and the pre-approval form) to an official in a booth, who stamped the papers with a green colored stamp, and we were approved for entry to island. If there was a separate line for people who just had paperwork on their phones, I did not see it. Immigration was easy and the wait for our luggage seemed the same as it has always been for us - long.

We rented a car from Michael – Unity – and his employee (whose name I have forgotten already) was waiting for us at the exit door of PJIA. We went to his new location right next to Police Station and Simpson Bay bridge (which is also his home) and were soon driving away in a well-used but perfectly adequate Toyota Corolla. I chatted briefly with Michael, learning among other things that Joseph, his former partner, had died in the last year (I think it was in last year). We have rented from Michael since about 2010 and he has treated us very well – including two times when I managed to damage the car.

We stayed our first three nights at Divi Little Bay. We had gotten what Divi claimed as a great reduced rate for a studio suite - #208 – first floor in building A – a great location. It was $226.45 per night for the three nights, everything included – including $25 total for “travel protection.” I would like to get Jazzgal to tell me the best way to negotiate a good week or multi-week rate. I got to say a brief hello to Jazzgal at Divi but did not get the opportunity for another get-together to ask about how she handles Divi to get the best rates. (You can see I had an ulterior motive for seeing about lunch opportunities.)

We very much enjoyed our stay at Divi – the wife was taking three snorkel trips a day – I was taking one. The room was very nice. Because of COVID, they did not have normal maid service, but for our three-night stay, it did not matter to us. We did get some clean towels once – didn’t need anything else. One day there seemed to be a water issue – pressure seemed very low – but no real problem for us. Everyone at Divi was very nice, including the times that we returned to Divi to snorkel even when not staying at the resort. The young bellmen were very nice and helpful to us in handling our luggage both arriving and departing. I wondered if management had really stressed being friendly and welcoming to guests – if so, it had worked.

After Divi, we moved to and stayed 19 nights in the Orient Bay Lodge, which is a couple third floor units in the Palm Court Hotel that Cécile Lucidarme manages separately. We have stayed with her a number of times and my only concern in mentioning her is that some of you will reserve with her and make it harder for us to book it. We were very lucky with regard to the water situation. There had been a cut-off for Phase 1 of the French-side water project, but it ended and the water was back on right before we arrived. Cécile told me that it was going to be shut-off again at various times in Phase 2 while we were there, but that never happened. We never suffered from any cut-off during our stay.

Cécile is one of owners (I think) of Wind Adventures which operates on Orient Beach. Her son Theo was given a very nice write-up in the latest Discover magazine about his kite surfing – he is a real expert. When we were getting “checked in” with her, I told her that I had seen and read the article and noticed that there was no mention of her or Wind Adventures. She told me that Theo had assured her that he had credited his mother with all of his success but that the writer had not included it in the article.

A highlight of the trip was lunch with the Hills at Orange Fever. We share a legal background with Carol and before she relocated to Florida, Carol was a member of the Virginia Bar, as are the two of us. It was very nice to talk travel and work experience with both Carol and Eric. I have sort of known them (or of them) online for years, all the way back to the old Prodigy board when we were fairly active there. (That was a great board and group.) I also respect and appreciate their work with TTOL.

Our meals at Orange Fever that day with the Hills were very good and we went back there for another lunch later in our trip. The second time, unlike the first, we were not able to get the nice cushy padded chairs after lunch. It was crowded and one of the guys had to set us up with unpadded chairs, which were not as nice. There was a group from Alabama (but Auburn fans) there which we enjoyed talking with during and after lunch, and we took over their padded chairs when they left fairly early in the afternoon. Both times at Orange Fever I did get to enjoy JC – who works at both Orange Fever and The Villa in Grand Case. We saw him at The Villa one night and said hello, although we already had eaten at The Sky’s The Limit – saving considerable money relative to the Villa or many other places in Grand Case
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Our only nice dinner was at Le Piment. It was good but we missed Chrystal – who always stood out for us as one of the most welcoming and friendly folks with whom we had contact.

We did two six-hour snorkel excursions with Captain Alan’s operation. One time we had Colleen as the Captain with Jervasen (sp.???) as the first mate. The other time we had Alan. This was the first time we had met Colleen and Jervasen and they were great; it was a really nice day. Jervasen was extremely helpful to me in particular; helping me deal with some problems I am having with my legs and my balance. (Once in the water, I am fine.) Both trips we went to Anse Marcel Point, which is a great spot for snorkeling and a place where many operators do not want to go. We also went to Creole Rock and were encouraged to go around the southern end to the best coral area; again, many operators do not want their guests to go there.

We went to the Rainforest Adventures and did the chair lift up to Sentry Hill and toured the small museum. The chair lift ride and the time up on Sentry Hill were very enjoyable. The views you get from the top of Sentry Hill are amazing – very much worth the trip up. The museum is a small one room museum but the exhibits are very well done. Worth a visit. We might have eaten at Emilio’s for lunch but it was a Sunday and we did not want the Brunch, so we went to Mark’s Place for lunch. The ribs at Mark’s Place were great, as has been reported very often on this site.

We also visited the Amuseum Naturalis near Orient Bay and the Sint Maarten Museum just off front street. First time to the Amuseum, some very nice exhibits including recordings of various animals and some folk songs. We always visit the Sint Maarten Museum in Philipsburg – we went to the first version of the Museum on the second floor of a building on Front Street back in early 90’s. I now wonder if we met Jay Haviser at that Museum around that time – he is one of foremost if not THE foremost anthropologist/archeologist of the island. Back then, I would not have had any idea who he was. At the Sint Maarten Museum, a young man, Jean-Marc, gave us a talk on ruins on the island, primarily the ruins of plantations. Very interesting.

We did most of our grocery shopping at Super U Hope Estate, which we found very good in terms of selection and pricing. We did go to Carrefour Bush Road a couple times when first arriving and when in that area.

We took the ferry to Pinel twice, learning the first time about Yellow Beach being on vacation from June 14 to July 9. We normally go to Yellow Beach as it is closer to the snorkeling. So, this was the first trip we have gotten chairs and drinks from Karibuni. Karibuni’s sign says no coolers and no “picnicking” but there seemed to be no issue with people eating sandwiches and getting water or other drinks from small coolers, as we did.

Both times we went to Pinel, the first ferry was a little before 10. Still 10 euros or 12 dollars, round trip. The captains were handing out “tickets” which had their names and the names of their boats on them, never had seen that before. Implication when boarding to go over was that you needed the “ticket” to return, but we never saw or heard of these “tickets” being collected or checked on return. Because of leg and balance issues, I could not easily get on or off the ferries without help from others; but every time I was getting on or off the ferry, multiple people quickly volunteered a hand to help me. (Maybe because they did not trust me not to fall on them.)

Testing to Return to USA: we were told that we could get free testing on the French-side but when we checked into it, we decided that we would prefer to get tested on Dutch-side where everything would be handled in English. So, having heard that Carol felt that Medworks was a good place, we signed up with Medworks in Simpson Bay. Got tested on Monday morning June 28 about 8:20 – received negative test results by email at 9:00 am on Tuesday morning – picked up paper hard copies on Tuesday afternoon (I prefer having paper hard copies of things like this, even though I know that having it on phone probably will work). Very simple and easy.

At airport on Wednesday June 30, there were a number of agents at the end of the line to check-in. These agents checked out our negative test results and passport, and then gave us a yellow slip of paper to show to counter agent. Very easy. When we arrived about three hours before flight (that early partly because of poor time planning and unexpected easy traffic) the economy line was not that bad and priority line was empty. We were not in Business but because of my status on American Advantage, we could and did use Priority Lane for check-in, so we were headed to security pretty quickly.

Security was what we have often seen in SXM, fairly casual. I did not set off the alarm with my artificial hip – which usually occurs at other airports and court houses. A sign read that you were supposed to remove all electronic things and metal from your carry-on, but when I (as an obedient and docile flyer) started pulling things out of my back pack, a female security person immediately told me not to do that and just leave everything in my back pack. OK. One thing we noticed – you could not miss it – was the pile of conch shells and other sea items stacked up in a pile at security. While we were in area, two people lost conch shells that they had in their carry-ons. Surprised us a little that people did not know you could not take such things out of Sint Maarten and you also cannot bring conch shells into USA (at least I do not think you can).
Waiting in airport was not bad as we ate lunch – both some of what we had and some purchased – and read our books. We were able to board the airplane up a ramp, which was preferable to stairs for us.

Travel to CLT was fine – on-time arrival. Fortunately, we were able to hang out in Admirals Club as our flight to RIC was delayed and delayed again. Flight was very full and we learned in Richmond that they had removed some of the luggage because of a “weight issue.” Two of our suitcases did not make it on our flight – many other people had same problem. Baggage agent worked at slow and careful pace to get each person set up for the delivery of bags the next day. By time we got that set up, our daughter had bailed on picking us up (she is a working person and we understood), and there were no Uber/Lyfts available. Taxis were scarce. We got lucky and connected with a taxi driver who was looking for but could not find who had called him – he gave up looking and took us home. Lousy end to a wonderful trip.

I continue to urge people to go ahead and travel to SXM, but I also continue to understand why some people still are not ready to deal with the testing issues and uncertainties. We were a little hesitant but had an easy time with the requirements and had a wonderful three weeks and one day on the island. There is no chance that it will be another four years before we have another vacation on the island.

Edited to add that the fact that Deepti is on island and was at store the day we were in Philipsburg cost me some money - until meeting Deepti some years ago, my wife did not like dealing with most jewelry store employees - in total, Deepti has cost me some serious money - but, it was good to see and talk with her.