I spent about 5 weeks there in 2010. It's VERY different from St. Martin. It's a beautiful place unspoiled by american tourism (as of 2010 anyway). You need to speak French or be really comfortable "faking it". Rent a car, stay in several places like at least 1 or 2 locales on each wing of the butterfly. We spent weeks - literally - visiting different beaches. Also, spend a few days in Marie Galante - it's unreal.