Day I – The Trough

Finally the big day. Our group of 20 begins to gather at the airport by 5:00 a.m. I am nervous – I have printed out a weather advisory that describes a large “trough” over Puerto Rico and BVI’s. Heavy rain is predicted. I show the report to my boat mates as they arrive. They are polite, sip their airport coffee, but are not impressed by my meteorological news.

Our plane lands in SXM in a grey shroud of clouds and rain. The trough is already here. We get taxis, some head to Captain Oliver’s Marina, six of us head to the Grand Marche. Great selections here, including most
U S brand names. I opt to purchase Rouquefort and Gouda cheese, Belinda insists on Kraft. Cold cuts are Hormel – not the highly coveted Boars Head. (See previous threads on this lengthy topic) . We buy steaks to grill (the only cut they offer is sirloin) and several bottles of wine at good prices. Loading up our taxi, we head out of town for Oyster Pond. It is my first time in St. Martin and I do not know what to expect. The housing and living conditions appear similar to those in Mexican border towns- skinny dogs and chickens scavenge in the mud. The rain continues.

We have booked a room at Captain Olivers, while the rest of the crew opts to spend their first night on board. I check in at the open air lobby, and am shown to a comfortable, clean, Marina view room for $80.00 per night including hearty breakfast buffet and welcome cocktails for two. There are other rooms overlooking a spectacular view of St. Barts that I imagine are pricer. Those rooms are also adjacent to the dramatic swimming pool with wall of glass waterfall. But on this trip, for reasons which will soon unfold, we are on a tight budget. Dining choices in Oyster Pond include a buffet dinner with entertainment at Captian Olivers for $38.00 pp, the charming La Escale festooned in Christmas lights, (entrees starting at 17.00 euros) or our choice, the tiny and unpretentious Le Bounty. Sitting at picnic tables outside of what appears to be no more than a hot dog stand, we are amazed as chef Fabrice dishes out rare tuna steak, pork loin, beef with mushrooms and tilapia, all imaginatively and incredibly sauced. Seafood dinner for hubby, Andy, and me including wine for the table is $60.00. Skipper Jim and first mate Belinda dine on beef and pork loin for a total tab of $26.00. Following dinner I make my announcement to the crew that I will not be sleeping on board. I expect to sense disapproval. But since my announcement includes offer of hot showers for all I am greeted with a round of applause. Following the shower- a- thon, Andy and I collapse, while the rest of the crew heads through the relentless drizzle for a fitful and sweltering night aboard 42 foot catamaran KuDu.