This is our trip report from our May 27 to June 5, 2006 trip to the BVI. Since I have a tendency to be verbose, I will divide the report up into sections, so you can skip stuff that doesn’t interest you.
AIR TRANSPORTATION Looking at air connections this time, since we had some air vouchers to use from a previous flight on United, we decided to book United to St. Thomas, and ferry over to Tortola. We booked a nonstop from Washington Dulles to STT, and a direct flight, with only a stop in San Juan, but no plane change, on the way home. Unfortunately--and ultimately, fortunately–United cancelled the direct flight on the way home, and put us on US Air instead, through Charlotte. When we booked the flight initially, we had wanted to book May 27 to June 5. However, the cost for tickets to come home on Monday vs. Sunday, was $300 more per person, so we booked to come home on Sunday. When they cancelled our direct flight, I called United and they switched our tickets to return on Monday instead of Sunday, without a change fee, or the extra $300 per person! <img src="http://www.traveltalkonline.com/forums/images/graemlins/Joy.gif" alt="" /> ...Moral of the story is that if the airlines change your flight significantly, you have the right to cancel all together and get your money back, so they are more accommodating. <img src="http://www.traveltalkonline.com/forums/images/graemlins/Smile.gif" alt="" />
Our flight from Dulles left on time, with no problems. There is NO food provided free on United, so we bought one of their $5 lunch boxes and split it. It was OK. One thing that is seriously fun on United is that you can listen to air traffic control on your headphones–provided free on United. Eric’s brother came along this time and he is training to be a small plane pilot, so he seriously enjoyed that. There were no delays and no problems with the flight.
Once in STT, Nutmeg met us at the airport. We had checked no bags, so it was very easy, hopping off the plane and meeting up. We had a lovely lunch and some drinks at
Secret Harbor , where Nutmeg lives, and they dropped us off at the 3:15 ferry from Red Hook to West End. Thanks guys! Hey, maybe next year, we’ll spend more than two hours on STT!! <img src="http://www.traveltalkonline.com/forums/images/graemlins/Smile.gif" alt="" />
The ferry to West End was PACKED with locals, who seemed to have been doing their weekly shopping at K-Mart, based on all the K-Mart bags we saw! <img src="http://www.traveltalkonline.com/forums/images/graemlins/Grin.gif" alt="" /> Customs was kind of backed up, with all the folks with their various bags and boxes, etc., but we were soon through and met up with our car rental guy.
CAR RENTAL We rented our car this time through
Jerry’s Car Rental , which we arranged through
Purple Pineapple . It was very painless, we told PP what we wanted, and they made all the arrangements, other than we called Jerry’s from STT to tell them which ferry we would be on. Since we were three people this time, we wanted a little bigger vehicle than the past, so we got a Chevy Tracker for $500 for the entire stay, including the insurance. It was very comfortable for 3 (or 4) people, and we had no problems with the vehicle at all. They met us right on time at the ferry when we arrived. When we arrived, we decided on the 12:30 ferry to return home. When we left, we went by their office, which was about two minutes from Big Apple, they drove us the remaining three minutes in the car to the ferry dock at West End, and we were done! No muss, no fuss, would highly recommend Jerry’s!
BIG APPLE VILLA When I was in Tortola last June, I checked out some various villas with Cheryl, from
Purple Pineapple , trying to decide where we would stay this year. Always before, we had stayed in Cane Garden Bay. Come February, when we were ready to book, I WANTED to book Lemon Grass, which is an absolutely beautiful villa above Cane Garden Bay. LG was reserved for when we wanted, which again, turned out to be fortunate. We booked what was my second choice, Big Apple Villa, in Little Apple Bay, right ON the beach. As my friend Map would say, “Oh my GAWD, it was AWESOME!” <img src="http://www.traveltalkonline.com/forums/images/graemlins/Grin.gif" alt="" /> Sorry, Mappie, just had to put that in there! <img src="http://www.traveltalkonline.com/forums/images/graemlins/Smile.gif" alt="" />
We rented Big Apple (down). Hereinafter, when I refer to Big Apple, I am talking about the downstairs only. The upstairs is available for rent also, but there is no a/c up there, and I have to have a/c in order to sleep. Big Apple is NOT new, and the decor is more ‘Caribbean comfortable” than anything else, but it is that, supremely comfortable. Big Apple has two air conditioned bedrooms, each with a queen sized bed–with modern a/c units, NOT the old model room air conditioners, one bathroom, a huge living room sitting area, and a nice kitchen, complete with gas stove, oven, microwave, toaster, blender, coffee pot, dishes, pots and pans, etc. There is a small keyed safe in the one bedroom, and a clock radio in one bedroom. I could have wished for the safe to be a bit bigger, as my Nikon D70 did NOT fit in it. The only toiletry provided was soap–no shampoo, etc., but we always bring our own anyway. There is no hair dryer, but the electricity is 110, so your hair dryer from home works fine. Maid service is provided only once per week, but was not a big deal, as they provide LOTS of clean towels, plus clean sheets, if you have a mind to change them during the week.
There is a phone at the villa, which is free for incoming and outgoing local calls–the definition of which is, within the BVI, so it included Virgin Gorda, for instance, but not ST. Thomas. It was set up so that you could use a credit card to call the States, but we didn’t do that, so I don’t know how much it was. There is a TV with cable, which I think we had on once for about 15 minutes. We did very much enjoy the CD player, and we moved the speakers around so they pointed out the french doors, which we usually had wide open when we were home. BUT the single BEST thing about Big Apple is the lovely deck which is totally covered by a huge sea grape tree. You can sit outside on the deck all day long without being in the sun, and the shade, plus the sea breezes, makes the most warm day quite delightful!
The first two days, the a/c in one of the bedrooms didn’t work (Huhm, somehow NOT the bedroom I slept in.. <img src="http://www.traveltalkonline.com/forums/images/graemlins/Grin.gif" alt="" />). Cheryl from Purple Pineapple was in Florida, but she called us, as well as did other folks from PP, checking on the status, as it was supposed to be repaired the day we arrived. Cheryl offered us another two bedroom villa that was fully air conditioned, but we didn’t even ask further about it, as we loved the location of Big Apple so much. Cheryl is giving us a couple of days free rental next year for our trouble, which we thought was more than fair.
Little Apple Bay is where Sebastian’s is, and just down from Bomba’s, The Sugar Mill and Islands Restaurant, Coco Plums, and just a few minutes from Carrot Bay, and about 10 minutes to Cane Garden, about 10 minutes to West End, about 25 minutes to Roadtown. We found it to the perfect location. It was pretty close to most everything, and it was much quieter and less busy than Cane Garden Bay. The beach there comes and goes–a LOT–but there was nice beach immediately in front of Big Apple for our stay. Big Apple is only three houses down from Mal’s Chateaux Relaxeau, but he didn’t have beach immediately in front of his place while we were there. Go figure. Mal usually walked the beach a couple of times a day, so we enjoyed chatting with him often, or hanging out in the water. We spent a lot of time, just hanging out on the deck, just limin’, especially in the afternoon. I have to say, this was one of the most relaxing trips we’ve had in a while, as it was great, on several days, just being on a semi deserted section of beach, but with cold drinks, a cd player, and a grill to cook some burgers and dogs on for lunch. And, btw, don’t try to book Big Apple for the June party next year, as we told Cheryl to block it out for us!! <img src="http://www.traveltalkonline.com/forums/images/graemlins/Grin.gif" alt="" />
TTOL PARTIES We had several TTOL parties while in BVI. Thursday night we had a lovely free appetizers and drinks party at
Spaghetti Junction . John announced the party way late and most everyone who would have gone was already in the BVI and didn’t hear about it, but the appetizers and drinks were LOVELY, for those that did make it. Next year, we’ll make sure it gets announced earlier, so more folks can enjoy! Friday evening we had a great crowd at
Myett’s for drinks. We were sorry that we didn’t get to see Val this time, as apparently she was on Anegada. After, most folks headed down to Elm Beach for their great Friday night BBQ. I love their ribs, chicken and that great coconut rice!!! <img src="http://www.traveltalkonline.com/forums/images/graemlins/hungry.gif" alt="" /> Islandplace Deb made her ‘kamikaze’ appearance at Elm to say hi. She had flown in for a 36 hour visit, and had to fly back home Saturday morning. Sorry you missed the big party on Saturday, lady! <img src="http://www.traveltalkonline.com/forums/images/graemlins/Sad.gif" alt="" /> After the Elm, most folks headed down to Quito's and boogied down for a while. <img src="http://www.traveltalkonline.com/forums/images/graemlins/Banana.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://www.traveltalkonline.com/forums/images/graemlins/Banana.gif" alt="" />
Saturday of course was the big day, with a party all afternoon and into the early evening, starting out at Mal’s Chateau Relaxeau, down the beach and in the water, and most everyone ending up by sunset down by Big Apple, our place, enjoying Clem Moore steel band music while enjoying the sunset and a cocktail. Great food, plenty of booze, great friends, nice music, great weather, what more could one want???? <img src="http://www.traveltalkonline.com/forums/images/graemlins/Thumbsup.gif" alt="" /> Gary T has done an awesome video of the party, so check that out!
WEATHER We had a couple of rain showers at night, and one brief 10 minute shower one day, but otherwise, no precipitation to interfere with our plans. The skies were perfectly clear the day we arrived, but afterwards, there was a definite haze in the sky every day, especially by late afternoon. I presume it was dust from Montserrat, or Sahara dust. Either way, it affected us not at all, other than not being able to get the great pictures from Bananakeet or from SkyWorld we would have wanted.
PEOPLE STUFF I know that I really shouldn’t mention anybody’s names, as I will leave somebody out and hurt their feelings. BUT, this was the FIRST time that Jeff and Bill and Eric had been together in one place at the same time, so it was special. The evening at Brandywine was just wonderful. And I so much enjoyed spending time with Map again, as she is just a delightful person–even if I do hate the fact that she looks so GREAT, being a grandmother!! <img src="http://www.traveltalkonline.com/forums/images/graemlins/Shocked.gif" alt="" /> Bill and Di, and Jeff and Chrissie were a joy to be around, and Eric got to meet Malcolm for the first time also, and all of us got to meet the lovely Candace for the first time, and the very versatile and talented Cousin Robin. I loved renewing acquaintances with Connie and Lance (Periwinkle on the board), Paul and Carolyn, as well as Uncle Fred and Pickle, Uschi, Davide, and Lou from Jolly Roger. Eric and I loved meeting and spending time with Rex and Laura, even though we could never keep up with them at Quito’s and otherwise! We enjoyed Gary T and his family, who made our time at the Soggy Dollar interesting with endless games of ring toss, from all angles.. <img src="http://www.traveltalkonline.com/forums/images/graemlins/Smile.gif" alt="" /> I’m not sure whether it was a good thing or a bad thing, but we happened upon TTOL honeymooners Mark and Laura on their first day on Tortola on Friday, and we drug them along to all the weekend festivities, so they scarcely had time to be by themselves until Sunday evening, at any rate.
MEALS-RESTAURANTS Since Big Apple is just 6 houses down from
Sebastian’s , I had intended to go down there for breakfast, but somehow we just never made time. Otherwise, I made some eggs or toast in the room a few mornings and Eric and Gerald basically didn’t eat breakfast. We did meet Bill and Di, Map and Uschi, for drinks at Sebastian’s the day we arrived, and we went there for nightcaps a couple of nights. Very convenient to stumble back home from there! <img src="http://www.traveltalkonline.com/forums/images/graemlins/Smile.gif" alt="" />
Lunch--
One day that Gerald was diving, Eric and I went to
Islands , which is the beach restaurant for the Sugar Mill. They serve lunch there, only. It is a really lovely location on the beach, just a skip down from Bomba’s. I had a chicken sandwich and Eric had the island fried chicken. The food and service there is excellent. The price for lunch is a little steep, but it’s worth it. One day we headed to the
Jolly Roger for lunch. I enjoyed a wonderful chicken curry salad, which was so huge that I took half of it home to enjoy one other day. Eric enjoyed his chili burger. On Sunday, we went to
Village Cay Marina , for lunch, as we were doing a drive around the island to acquaint Gerald with the island. They had a Sunday brunch, but we weren't that hungry, so opted for some burgers and chicken sandwiches instead. Very tasty! Other days, we just enjoyed burgers and hot dogs on the grill at Big Apple.
Dinner–
The day we arrived, we went to
Spaghetti Junction for dinner with Bill and Di, Map, Mal, Candace and Robin. It was a lovely beginning to the week!!! We all enjoyed wonderful meals. I had some wonderful spicy cannelloni, and – since I know Eric’s brother is an eating machine – I did NOT offer Gerald a taste of my cannelloni, unlike poor Malcolm. I took my leftovers home to enjoy another day. Mal offered Gerald a bite of his leftover dinner, whereupon Gerald proceeded to finish the rest of it!! <img src="http://www.traveltalkonline.com/forums/images/graemlins/Laugh.gif" alt="" /> Mal called him “Hoover” for the rest of the trip!! <img src="http://www.traveltalkonline.com/forums/images/graemlins/jester.gif" alt="" /> We enjoyed a couple of free bottles of wine, care of John! And, best of all, John gave us the remainder of the bottle of the butterscotch liquor to take with us!! (And NO, it had nothing to do with the fact that my hands were clamped tight around the bottle and we wouldn’t leave without another drink!!!! <img src="http://www.traveltalkonline.com/forums/images/graemlins/Grin.gif" alt="" /> Thanks, John!! <img src="http://www.traveltalkonline.com/forums/images/graemlins/Clapping.gif" alt="" />
Sunday evening, wanted to go to Palm’s Delight, but it was closed, so we headed back to
Coco Plums instead. We shared an appetizer of coconut shrimp, which was merely OK. We all enjoyed our entres, though, of stuffed chicken, mahi-mahi and Rasta pasta. Coco Plums is an easy walk from Big Apple and I give it 3 out of 4 stars, very enjoyable.
Monday evening, we made it finally to
Palm’s Delight . Gerald and I enjoyed the obligatory Ginger Wine chicken. Somehow, I didn’t realize it was fried, not grilled, but it was nice, regardless. Eric had the local fish, which was a WHOLE fish, with lots of bones, but good regardless. The fellow who seated us was very smart, though, as he insisted that I sit in the middle of the table, with the view of the lights from the neighboring islands. Very smart fellow.. <img src="http://www.traveltalkonline.com/forums/images/graemlins/Smile.gif" alt="" />
Tuesday evening we enjoyed a fabulous dinner at
Brandywine Bay . Since the rest of our dining group was on a boat, they designated me to call for reservations. I made the reservation and about 2 hours later, Davide called me back. He was just checking, because I had called in a reservation for 11 and someone ELSE had called in a reservation for 14 and said they were from TTOL. Davide gave me the names, and I said “no, that’s not us!”.. Map ended up under the weather that night and didn’t get to come, but we still ended up with one table for 10 and another one for 14, all from TTOL on the same night!! (And btw, that OTHER table was LOUD.. <img src="http://www.traveltalkonline.com/forums/images/graemlins/Grin.gif" alt="" />) Eric had the asparagus soup, scallop ravioli and fish. I had the salad with goat cheese and the filet mignon. A couple of bottles of wine, and some lemoncello and grappa later, everyone was happy and nicely fed! Thanks so much, Davide, for a lovely night!! Sorry that we missed Cele, as apparently she had just gotten home from Australia.
Wednesday evening, we headed to
Bananakeet , meeting Mal, Candace and Robin, Rex and Laura, for sunset drinks. Gerald pronounced the Bananakeet special drink quite tasty. <img src="http://www.traveltalkonline.com/forums/images/graemlins/toast.gif" alt="" /> The sunset was pretty hazy, unfortunately. Eric, Gerald and I stayed to dinner and enjoyed crab cakes, rack of lamb, tuna, and a banana cheesecake. Bananakeet does a wonderful job! Great stuff!
FLY BVI SIGHTSEEING FLIGHT Eric’s brother, Gerald, is training to be a small plane pilot and he wanted to do a flightseeing trip around the BVI. He made arrangements from home with Fly BVI, which does a 45 minute flightseeing trip over the BVI’s. The cost is $300 for the plane, which seats 4 passengers. He was able to hook up with a family of three, so he had to pay only $75 for his seat, which was great. He said that they buzzed Big Apple, although I didn’t notice. I guess either that book I was reading was really good, or maybe I was taking a nap??? <img src="http://www.traveltalkonline.com/forums/images/graemlins/Grin.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://www.traveltalkonline.com/forums/images/graemlins/Smile.gif" alt="" />
DIVING Gerald is also a certified dive master, and so wanted to get in some dives while in BVI. He did three dives with Blue Water Divers, who were recommended by Uncle Fred here on TTOL. BW Divers are located at Nanny Cay, which proved to be very convenient for us, at only a 10 minute drive from Big Apple, so it was not a big deal at all for Eric to go drop Gerald off and pick him up. The first two dives were $90 each, the third $50. I am not a diver, but Gerald seemed very happy with the dives, as they were not ‘cattle boat’ dives, jammed with 20 people from off a cruise ship. If you have any questions about that, please send Gerald an email directly at
ghill@info-res.com GROCERY SHOPPING We did most of our grocery shopping at
Bobby’s in Cane Garden Bay, which was a short 10 minute drive. Bobby’s is sure a nice addition to CGB!! BTW, they now have an ATM both at Bobby’s and at Myett’s. We also visited Bobby’s in Roadtown. We had not been in Riteway before, but were pleasantly surprised with the selection there, including the monster a$$ shrimp that we served at the TTOL party on Saturday and also the 100% beef burgers, neither one of which we were able to find at Bobby’s. Riteway was also the scene of a quintessential BVI moment. I looked up from my shopping cart to see a half grown chicken, standing in front of the chicken counter!! <img src="http://www.traveltalkonline.com/forums/images/graemlins/Laugh.gif" alt="" /> Maybe he was looking for long lost relatives?? <img src="http://www.traveltalkonline.com/forums/images/graemlins/thinks.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://www.traveltalkonline.com/forums/images/graemlins/Grin.gif" alt="" /> The last time we saw said chicken, it was running like mad, avoiding a store employee! Maybe he was running for his life!!! <img src="http://www.traveltalkonline.com/forums/images/graemlins/Laugh.gif" alt="" />
VIRGIN GORDA DAY TRIP Through TTOL, we had met John, who works at Bitter End Yacht Club. He volunteered to show us around Virgin Gorda one day, so we took him up on the offer!! We took the 9 AM ferry from Roadtown. About 9:10, we were surprised that we hadn’t left yet, when a fellow pulled up in an official looking car, trailed by his own ‘press corps’. I took his picture, in case anyone recognizes him. Not sure who he was, but upon arrival in VG, the ferry was met by 3 or 4 police cars for a motorcade. (Probably all three they have?? <img src="http://www.traveltalkonline.com/forums/images/graemlins/Grin.gif" alt="" />) John showed us around Little Dix, Top of the Baths, Leverick Bay, and finally we had lunch at BEYC, which had a lovely buffet. Thanks for lunch, John, we didn’t mean for you to pay!! <img src="http://www.traveltalkonline.com/forums/images/graemlins/Blush.gif" alt="" /> After lunch, we took the 3:30 ferry back to Roadtown, as we had to get back for the TTOL party at Spaghetti Junction. BTW, roads on VG are much better than Tortola, with none of those nasty switchbacks, and much better paved! We thoroughly enjoyed our trip to VG. Thanks so much for the day, John!
SAIL TO JOST Sunday morning, we hitched a ride with JeffC, Chrissie, Di and BillH, Map, and the other non sailors, Mark and Laura, on Jeannius, over to Jost van Dyke. We started out under sail from Cane Garden Bay, but the wind eventually died completely, and we had to motor the rest of the way to White Bay. Fortunately, Map made sure we were fortified with painkillers and otherwise, so we non-sailors in the crowd scarcely knew the difference. <img src="http://www.traveltalkonline.com/forums/images/graemlins/Smile.gif" alt="" /> White Bay was PACKED when we arrived, with lots of folks, including half of the Puerto Rican navy. A group of about six of them gave a kind of impromptu concert of various Caribbean songs, which was really fun. Possibly it is offered just on weekends when they expect big crowds, but they have a meal now which includes either flying fish, grilled chicken breast or hamburger, along with some salads, for $10. Great deal and good food! Gary T showed up with Mal, Rex and Laura and the gang, after the party was in full swing. We all hung out and watched the ring toss for a while, and enjoyed several painkillers, etc. apiece, and headed on over to Great Harbor. Unfortunately, they have moved the ferry dock about a half mile down the coast from Foxy’s, for some reason, so we didn’t get to get to Foxy’s, as time was getting short to get to the 5 PM ferry. Next time! <img src="http://www.traveltalkonline.com/forums/images/graemlins/Sad.gif" alt="" /> We ferried back to West End, but our car was in Cane Garden, so we took a cab to Cane Garden, then car back to Big Apple.
TRIP HOME Monday morning we finished packing up all our stuff, and cooked a brunch on the grill of our leftover burgers and hot dogs from the party, and said goodbye to Mal, Candace, Robin, Rex and Laura, and headed to Jerry’s to drop off the car. They dropped us off at the 12:30 ferry to STT. We were through the check-in at US Air in 5 minutes, so we called home (Verizon works in STT!!! <img src="http://www.traveltalkonline.com/forums/images/graemlins/Clapping.gif" alt="" /> ), and then had a couple of drinks in the bar outside security. This being Monday, security was a breeze, and we went inside, and wished that we had booked an AA flight to Miami, as they were offering $500 per person travel voucher, PLUS a free hotel and food voucher and guaranteed flight the next day, to volunteer to take a bump!! <img src="http://www.traveltalkonline.com/forums/images/graemlins/Mad.gif" alt="" /> I presume that was because American Eagle had cancelled all flights out of EIS due to Montserrat dust. BTW, if you want a semi decent meal on the plane on the way home, the restaurant inside security at STT sells a very nice chef salad for $6.50, which we got and took with us. The other folks on US Air who were eating their lame turkey sandwiches (as well as one of the stewardesses!!! <img src="http://www.traveltalkonline.com/forums/images/graemlins/Grin.gif" alt="" />), were looking at our salads with hungry eyes. Our flight left on time, arrived a little late in Charlotte, but we still had plenty of time for Eric and Gerald to smoke a cancer-stick in Charlotte (hey, this is North Carolina, OK???). <img src="http://www.traveltalkonline.com/forums/images/graemlins/cloud.gif" alt="" /> Home to DC on time, with Eric’s parents picking us up and carrying us home to our very HAPPY pup, Simba..
That’s it. Great time, great friends.. I wish we could go back
today...
Pictures will be up by the weekend. That's kind of Eric's job.. <img src="http://www.traveltalkonline.com/forums/images/graemlins/Smile.gif" alt="" /> Carol & Eric
