This is long, so I split it into 2 parts - a summary (for the time-challenged), and the details (for a fuller view). Enjoy!

Summary

Crew: Myself + wife, 2 college age kids + partners
Dates: May 24th for 7 days
Charter: Footloose 3900
Itinerary: Base -> Peter -> Scrub -> BEYC -> Anegada -> Diamond Cay -> Soper's Hole -> The Bight
Photos: Here
Travel: Flew to STT then Smith's Ferry to/from Road Town (Bomba Charger out, Ocean Dreams back - Ocean Dreams is better!)
Overview comments: -
- We are 5th-timers. I tried to hit some new spots on the itinerary this time, and this worked well - kept things fresh.
- Footloose were very good - great price, nice base, the boat did the job, and when we had problems, they were quickly fixed. Would use them again.
- Got lucky with the weather - very little rain, lots of sunshine, and a steady 15 to 18 knots out of the east all week.
- Highlights: Cooper Island Beach Club, empty Baths, George Dog, Captain Kelly's tour on Horseshoe reef (and cooking/eating the catch), Guana Island, Privateer Bay, Norman Island

Overall, fabulous trip - we'll be back!

Details

The below is basically a series of facebook daily updates, each written early morning each day and referring to the prior day.

Good morning from Gt Harbour, Peter Island - always a lovely first night stop - quiet, calm and beautiful. Busy morning yesterday with all the pre-sail briefings, checks, shopping and stowing. Early lunch on the dock and then we were off. Exciting sail in the Drake Channel, including an uncomfortably near encounter with another boat who didn't seem to realize that a boat under power gives way to one under sail - I eventually had to take evasive action and he passed within a few feet - close enough for some choice words to be exchanged! Moored at the RMS Rhone and snorkelled it - The Rhone was a Royal Mail ship which was tragically shipwrecked in 1867, with the loss of many lives - its not in great shape these days, but still an interesting sight. Chugged over to Peter for the night. Some kayaking in the bay and some crystal clear snorkeling in beautiful Coral Gardens along the shore. Grilled a steak dinner and then played drinking games on the boat - I lost! Up now for morning coffee and planning today ...

Good morning from Scrub Island Marina, BVI! Busy day yesterday - up and off the ball at Peter Island at 8:15am for the sail up to Cooper Island - a very nice day stop. Snorkelled and kayaked in the bay. Headed into the beach club to sample to local brews and play some darts at the bar. More snorkeling at Cistern Point (excellent), made lunch and we were off again, this time for the short sail up to The Baths on Virgin Gorda. Last time we were here it was a cruise ship day and an absolute zoo, but not yesterday - we almost had the place to ourselves. Messed about on the lovely beach, walked through the boulders and caves (lots of photo opportunities) then snorkeled back to the dinghy. Pulled anchor again and motor-sailed across to Scrub Island for the night. Rough docking, but we made it. Infinity pool, hot tub and showers all gratefully used! Ran into Mark (of S/V Orion and BVI Mariner fame) for a quick chat. Dinner on the boat, then the kids started dropping like flies - too tired to keep going. The NC State kids schooled us at Corn Hole, then an end of day cup of tea before a good nights sleep in the A/C. Excellent day! Chilled out morning at the resort ahead today.

Good morning from Bitter End Yacht Club, Virgin Gorda! It's another beautiful day as I sit in the cockpit, contemplating today's early start for the trip to Anegada - always a favorite of mine. As planned, yesterday morning was chilled out at Scrub Island resort - a gentle stroll around the island before breakfast, then we dinghy'd over to snorkel Diamond Reef, before spending a little time by the pool just as a heavy rain shower passed through. We left the dock around noon and motored over to George Dog Island for a lunch stop - a pretty little uninhabited island with a nice beach and terrific snorkeling. Mid-afternoon we set off again, this time sailing up to Virgin Gorda and BEYC - the girls slept while the boys drank. Much better docking this time, despite a tricky slip assignment - it's all about the quality of instructions from the dock. Water taxi over to Saba Rock for happy hour, then showers, more drinking, and dinner out. Quick stroll along the harbour and little beach - very quiet here - before heading back to the boat for cards - the crew all in great spirits. Slept well and now enjoying the morning coffee and view.

Good morning from Setting Point, Anegada, one of my favorite spots on the planet - a beautiful rustic coral island to the north of the BVI, with a laid back feel and unique character. Early start yesterday morning after a brisk walk up the hill at Bitter End for photo opps. Chugged out through Eustasia Sound - the charter company had asked us not to do that due to the shallow depth, but I wanted to see it, and also get a different angle for the sail up to Anegada, so, after checking at the marina, decided to go for it, and we were rewarded with terrific views of the pretty bays. Getting the sails up was an adventure in rolly waters as we were hit by the waves, but from there it was a fast beam reach up to Anegada - great stuff! Quick lunch and then we met up with Captain Kelly for our afternoon outing on Horseshoe Reef. Depending upon who you talk to, this is the 4th largest coral reef on earth, and inaccessible to most boats (including ours). He took us out there for snorkeling (fantastic) and dive fishing, and then over to Conch Island to clean our catches, before we headed back to the boat to eat it all - Conch Ceviche and Lobster pasta! Cooking it all was a group effort, and great fun. After dinner the kids started to flag and were all in bed shortly after 9pm - they don't make them like they used to! We relaxed in the cockpit before a good night's sleep. Up early as ever - this is always a favorite part of the day for me - enjoying the morning coffee, gentle music and wonderful views, planning the day ahead.

Good morning from Diamond Cay, Jost Van Dyke! Lots of sailing yesterday. Started out from Anegada around 8:30am for the 18nm sail to Guana Island, just to the north of Tortola. Sails up and we were on a comfortable broad reach in perfect conditions - blue skies and 15 knots of wind from the east. The captain took a shift off and let the crew take the helm, leaving me with nothing to do but watch the ocean and contemplate the world. For 3 or so wonderful hours, time seemed to stand still as the islands to the south slowly came more clearly into view. Just glorious. We pulled into White Bay at Guana around noon - pretty little beach bay - and sparked up the grill for lunch while we watched the Poker Run boats speed by. I kayaked and snorkeled in the bay while lunch was cooking, then after lunch we dinghy'd down to Monkey Point for more great snorkeling - massive clouds of small minnow fish being hunted by larger fish and birds - it's quite startling when a pelican dives just a few feet in front of your mask! Around 2:30pm we pulled anchor for the downwind sail to Jost van Dyke, taking a northerly gibe route to get better wind angle. Just as we were reaching our destination we were hit with a strong rain shower. As is often the case, I was a bit slow to anticipate and react, making dropping the sails an uncomfortable exercise. We motored into Diamond Cay to take a ball for the night. The crew went ashore to Foxy's Taboo, while I dinghy'd over to Sandy Spit - a tiny Robinson Crusue desert island, which I had all to myself. I walked the entire perimeter (took about a minute), then sat and drank a beer on the beach while watching the sun descend. Back to the dock to pick up the crew, then Sam/Hannah cooked a lovely dinner on the boat. Cards and then bed. I decided we'd sleep without A/C last night (long story), so setup the hatches with windscoops to maximize cabin breeze. Unfortunately we got hit by a rain shower in the middle of the night which had us all scrambling - I suspect I'll have a mutinous crew on my hands when they wake up! Now sat watching the weather and sky - still a bit unsettled - and making plans A, B and C for the day.

Good morning from Sopers Hole Marina, Tortola, BVI. Yesterday was both fabulous and challenging. Firstly, the weather surprised to the upside - beautiful day, with the BVI at its glorious best. We awoke in Diamond Cay, JVD, and all enjoyed breakfast on the boat. We were joined by a couple of large remora fish and I jumped in to swim with them. Our plan was to go to Sandy Spit first, which requires anchoring. However we tested the anchor winch before leaving the ball and couldn't get it working, so instead we headed over to Sandy Cay (similar dreamy desert island, but bigger) and grabbed a ball. Dinghy/swim in for larking about, photos and generally lazing in the warm turquoise water. Walked along the nature trail and found hermit crabs - race on - mine was victorious and undefeated! Then we chugged down to Great Harbour, JVD and went to the fuel dock for gas/water/ice before grabbing a ball for lunch. After lunch we started out for White Bay - most of us on foot, and Hattie/Joseph in the dinghy. On the walk up the hill we noticed that the dinghy was struggling and drifting towards the rocks, with Joseph trying to get the motor going and Hattie paddling. The others continued on while I went back to help them. Reached them as they hit the shore and confirmed that the engine would not go once engaged. Started paddling back to the boat, but soon realized it would be a long haul, so asked some sailors on a nearby boat to dinghy-tow us back - happily they obliged. Called the base then chilled out on the boat waiting for the rest of the crew to come back - definitely not the worst circumstances to be stranded in! The rest of the crew returned - we picked them up from the fuel dock before a lovely short sail over to Sopers Hole - tricky docking successfully negotiated. The mechanic came out and fixed all our problems. The marina showers felt good after 3 days off the dock, and then drinks and snacks aboard. Went ashore for appetizers and WiFi, then cards and bed. Was sleeping well on the A/C, but on a middle-of-the-night bathroom run I looked out of the porthole and noticed that the fenders were sitting too high and the boat was gently bumping the dock - basically the tide had lifted us up a bit. I went out in nothing but my underpants to fix the situation, resetting the dock and fender lines while manhandling a 9-ton yacht. Paula came out to help. Just as I was finishing up I got hit by a heavy flash rain shower, which had me running for cover and scrambling to get the drying towels in from the rails. I truly hope there is no security video of all this. Tough to get back to sleep after all that, so lay listening to the fenders do their job before eventually drifting off (to sleep that is!) Now sitting in the cockpit enjoying the pretty marina and contemplating our last day.

Good morning from The Bight, Norman Island - another beautiful day! Yesterday was our last full day and we slowed the pace a bit, which I think the crew appreciated. A leisurely start, with everyone taking their sweet time to get up and going, and we left the dock around 10:15am. Motored up the south shore of Tortola to open up our angle, then sails up for a quick blast in sporty winds to Norman Island. Into Privateer Bay to grab a ball for the day - a pretty (and quiet) little cove with great snorkeling all around. Started the onerous task of using up the remaining food and drink. Generally hung out in the sun, kayaking up and down the shore looking for snorkel spots - all feeling good. Late afternoon chugged over to The Indians for more great snorkeling - an absolute aquarium as ever - and then into The Bight for the night. Dinghy'd around checking out dinner options before settling upon the Willie T - infamous party boat. Finished up the last of the drink on our boat and headed over. Sometimes the Willie T is jumping, sometimes dead. Last night it was kind of in between - good crowd but not much party vibe. Another guest had taken over the music and was playing obscure reggae - good stuff, but not what the people needed. An intervention was required. Over dinner we threw together a quick playlist and stepped in, and soon had the place bumping. The kids did a shot-ski and we departed. Obligatory cards and cup of tea to round off the day. Up for the sunrise this morning - milking every last moment -and contemplating the journey home today - boat, taxi, ferry, taxi, plane, plane and taxi - gonna be a long one!

Back in Raleigh and commencing re-entry to the real world. Up for sunrise at Norman Island yesterday, drinking in every last moment. Off the ball at 8:15am for the short-but-sweet sail back to the base. Managed the docking OK again - the part still scares the crap out of me every time, but I'm slowly gaining confidence. Burst of activity to clear out of the boat, and then onwards. Nice above-decks ride on a brand new ferry, enjoying the last of the views in the BVI and SVI. Arrived in St Thomas in time to walk along the dock to the Green House for lunch, then taxi to the airport and continue on. All thankfully smooth, reaching home around midnight. Now reflecting on a magnificent week - perfect weather and conditions, nice itinerary, smooth sailing, great crew and fun times! Will definitely do this again some day, though maybe not next year - there's too many other places in the world. Then again, I say that every year, but still keep coming back - there really is no vacation like this one. Over and out - thanks for listening!

Ben

Great report.

Re "Chugged out through Eustasia Sound - the charter company had asked us not to do that due to the shallow depth, but I wanted to see it"

Your lucky you did not get into trouble in eustasia sound. I have seen many sailboats go aground in there.

How would you explain going aground to the charter company ? The insurance company, and the people who had the boat booked for the next charter?

If the base says it's out of bounds, it's generally prudent seamenship to follow the advice.

I am not even sure what to say about this one besides please do not ever charter a boat from us. No one likes being the hall monitor but this is ridiculous. You where on boat that belongs to some one else. Likely their pride and joy that they spent years accumulating the money to buy. You should treat it better than you would your own boat.

Those of us that work in the industry are tasked with providing a great vacation to guests and at the same time protecting the boat owners assets. This is not an easy balance some days. Poor decisions like this are one of the reasons. We do not randomly redline areas of the charts. Those decisions are made based on years of experience and in a lot of cases repeated losses of vessels and harm to people. I am glad you had a great trip. Please let this be a learning experience and never put a vessel or your crew at that level of risk again for a sight seeing detour.

Jay

Ben; Very good trip report. we will be making a lot of the same stops that you have including Peter island and Diamond Cay. Looks like you and family had a blast.

It is good to see the perspective from members that have boats in the fleet as charters. Sometimes it is easy to lose sight of the fact that these boats are not owned by a large corporate entity (i.e Moorings, Sunsail or Footloose) but actually owned by individuals who may be relying on the boat for their retirement dreams. It is a good reminder for us one week out from our trip!

Maybe, when you charter a bareboat the charter companies (with approval from the owners of course) should provide a personal message from the owners of the boat to reaffirm that idea and sense of responsibility. "Hi, welcome aboard this is our baby, enjoy but treat it with respect and care please..."

Thanks again for the trip report.

All,

Let me address the point of contention here - certainly wasn't the atmosphere I was looking to create with this report! Before you all judge me too harshly (may be a bit late for that), I'll say this: -
- The guidance from the charter company was stated as a preference, not a requirement (as, say, the Mosquito cut is). IOW, I don't believe it was red-lined (though I accept I may be assuming here).
- There is actually a well-marked channel all the way out to Oil Nut Bay and out of the sound. It's fully described in the cruising guide. I studied this hard before making the decision.
- Again, before deciding, I sought opinions at the marina, and spoke to someone who regularly takes a monuhull out there, and who told me that the channel is dependable.
- When cruising, I carefully stuck to the middle of the channel and went *very* slowly, checking depth all the way.
- The shallowest point is actually right at the start (between Saba Rock and BEYC). I estimate I had 4 feet of clearance at this point (I had dived under the boat earlier in the trip to make sure I knew how to correctly interpret the depth meter) - and after a few seconds you're clear and in the deep. This depth is basically the same (though much shorter) as the channel at Anegada, which is red-lined by some charters, yet many of us routinely do it.

I doubt I'll change your minds here, but I also don't want you to think of this as an act of recklessness on my part - I would not do that. It was a carefully considered risk that I judged to be safe (and was willing to take responsibility for).

I get all the points made from the owners perspective, but this was my 5th week in the BVI, and I've always treated the boats with the utmost respect, and have always taken a pride in returning them in great condition.

Like I say, this wasn't really the reaction I was looking for on the report as a whole, but I get the concern.

Ben