Trip Report 1/22-2/1
The first 5 days we spent in a condo at Cowpet Bay East. This trip we had a 3 bedroom at 1 Tracy Way, we previously had a 2 bedroom at 3 Tracy and the condo was once again great. Highly recommend using VIP rentals. We did a trip over to STJ for a day but mainly hung around Redhook and the STYC. As always Bill, at STYC, was a great host. Had good meals at Fish Tails, Molly Malone’s, STYC, Hook Line and Sinker and Betsy’s Bar, and of course drinks at Duffy’s. The only mediocre meal was at Lat. 18 but the atmosphere and entertainment made up for it. We had rented a 7 passenger van from Avis and were able to drop it off at the ferry terminal near CYOA; we were able to get 6 of us and all our luggage into it.
We had chartered thru CYOA and it is always like going to a family reunion when we arrive. Nancy, John, Jan, Kirstin and Jay made us feel right at home. We did a sleep aboard the first night and were able to check out all the electrical and plumbing systems before staring on our trip. The boat was an Orana 44, Moonshadow. The boat had 4 staterooms and 4 heads. The living areas are great, loved the raised hel station, a/c in all areas, nice freezer and piano hinged refrig made access easy. Only complaints the crew had were the challenge of hooking up the main and storage for 8 people for 10 days was adequate.
Everyone has their favorite charter company and I would not dare to put any of them down, but I will tell you that CYOA boats, staff and maintenance are first class. The checkout was thorough and we were on our way.
The seas were running 6-8 ft. and the wind was blowing right on our nose as we headed out to Salt Pond Bay on STJ. Not the most comfortable ride but loved the anchorage, it was a first for us in this anchorage. Eco tents on the hillside and beautiful reefs and rocks. The next day we headed to Jost Van Dyke to check in and take a taxi over the Soggy Dollar. Excuse me if I sound like a curmudgeon but Soggy Dollar has lost its charm. So many day trippers, charter boats and mega yachts that waiting in a line for 20 minutes for drinks is not what I come to “de islons” for. We wound up going down the beach to Coco Loco and had a great time, good service and great drinks. Dinner that night at Foxy’s, the Mahi Mahi was superb. The next day did a trip, over to Sopers for some supplies and returned to Jost to get a ball at Diamond Cay but they were all filled up, by 2 p.m. Decided to go around the corner to Little Harbor and were greeted by Cynthia, who has to be one of the most gracious islanders there is. She showed us her “secret snorkeling” spot and we ate ashore. Don’t miss the desserts. Food and hospitality can’t be beat.
Next day we planned to motor up to Marina Cay and guess what, wind and waves right on the nose again. When we finally arrived we decided to go to Trellis instead, as wanted to make sure we had a mooring for the full moon party. The crew went ashore and explored most of the afternoon and then we watched a great sunset and ate aboard. The next day we watched a comedy as boats arrived using the WOT approach and jockeyed for moorings as they became available. A couple of groundings, on the reef, by the Last Resort and some scary anchoring techniques. There is no lack of amusement. I have been traveling down to the islands since 1986 and chartering since 95 but had never hit the full moon party before. I will not miss it again. The rum flows, the bands are great; the mocko- jumbies are wonderful, the fire dancing fun. It was a highlight of our trip. The food was wonderful at the buffet. We were surprised and ran into another sailor from our yacht club that was on a BVI Charter boat.
The following day we headed up to VG and Leverick Bay. We had arranged for a slip with Nick and a safari car rental for the following day. We caught “Happt Aaarh” with Michael and had drinks and dinner at the bar. The next day we met up with nick and Monica and had a chance to visit with them. They are such wonderful hosts. So off we go for a driving tour of Virgin Gorda. I am used to driving on the left in St. Thomas, but the hills and the entrance into Leverick are really challenging. If you have never done a driving trip on Virgin Gorda I really think it is worth your time. Is there a more beautiful beach than Savannah? The top of the baths was great for lunch, the copper mine fun and wound up at Hog Heaven to finish off the drive. Dinner that night upstairs at Leverick and another day in paradise.
We left the next a.m. for Cooper, yahoo wind not on our nose, averaged about 8.5knts. Reach,reach,reach, finally really had a chance to see how the Orana sailed. I believe at one point we saw over 12 knts. Just as we reached the lee side of Cooper we got hit with a squall with about 30 knts. of wind, fortunately had already furled the jib so were able to head up and drop the main. The wind swirled and gusted all day which inhibited the snorkeling out by Cistern rock. I had heard they had redone the beach club but was disappointed they had redone the colors on the cottages. I thought it had lost some of its charm with losing the pastel colors. I did like the underwater cam at the bar. Dinner on the boat, and left the next morning for Cruz Bay.
The seas and winds had subsided by the following a.m. and we sailed down the channel. I am always amazed at how few charters are in the USVI but it seems we see a lot more cruisers. Checking in was a piece of cake, as we had printed forms off the internet and had them already filled in. We ound up spending the night at Christmas Cove rather than slog back up to Lamshur, which was our original plan.
Check in the next a.m. was easy, the first time we ever were able to fuel up at Yacht Haven without a 30-45 minute wait. The check in itself was completed and we were off to the Island Beachcomber for a final night. The IB is fine for a last night. We had used Hotel Plus and gotten a $99-$127 rate for the 4 couples. This is not the Ritz but great beach bar, friendly staff and the rooms were clean. DO NOT get rooms 124 or 125, you pay for a beach view but get a view of the hotel wall next door.
Lines for customs the next day were 35-45 minutes long which was a pain. It was only after standing in line for 20 minutes I remembered about using a porter. Oh well, I was on island time.