Greeting all: We spent the last 21 nights of May in Virgin Gorda. This was our 4th trip in as many years. Our time was evenly divided between Coffee house on Little Leverick Bay, Tamarine House at Guavaberry Spring Bay, and Island Magic on Mahoe Bay. This report is L O N G in the tooth, but perhaps some of it will be helpful or at least amusing. I hope to get photos posted soon. Enjoy rich 10 May Up early (3:30 am) Strange sleeping place (pillow). Very pain free flying from BDL to SJU. SJU VIJ was a little confusing; you have to go to the Air Sunshine ticket counter, even when you only have carry on. You wind up checking your Òcarry onÓ any ways. We were the only two passengers. They seem to run on island time. Nice smooth ride, with a quick stop at STT to pick up a passenger. L&S not at airport when we got there (we were a little late). Junior (of Little Dix Bay) gave a call and there were there quickly. ÔThere a face I recognizeÕ was the first thing out of LeonÕs (L&S owner) mouth. A nice way to start. Leverick bay was a welcome sight. We went straight there, without even a stop at DixieÕs! We wanted to be there. There is Coffee House (waterÕs edge on Little Leverick Bay, VG), a small, excellent for 2 (not 3) people, villa. The first thing you hear is the waves lapping at your beach. A quick walk to the water (itÕs not Mahoe bay) was serendipitous; we saw a Queen Conch shell in the water near the shore and it was moving. Way cool to watch. We intended to do a quick shop at Bucks, but were too late, so went over the hill to the Commissary in Spanishtown. Cuban Cigars and Milk ($3.89 / half gal) and fresh veggies and fruit ( it Thursday - thanks Kate). Dinner at The Lighthouse Restaurant - home of the BVIÕs only Lighthouse - was Caribbean style swordfish and Black bean soup, and peel and eat shrimp. $88 for 2. Nothing special except Chris (from the group from the Newfoundland) and our Tea House neighbor (Mat) sing Johnny CashÕs A Boy Named Sue. Chris knew the words way too well! Back to Coffee House where the waves sound so relaxing after a long day. I got my first bug (mosquito) bite within the first hour (so much for vitamin B, garlic and BrewerÕs yeast - all of which I have been taking to keep the bugs away). The bug coils are burning. Coffee House is all louvered windows (except one wall). There is a great breeze.<br><br>11 May We have a nice breeze today. Saw another live conch in the bay - neat. Walked to the east of little Leverick Bay - very rocky- No snorkeling or shells. Sunrise over Prickly Pear is nice. The waves and the Bananaquits compete for your ear. There is an endless parade of sailing boats - of many sizes - (some very nice!) through the reef between Mosquito Island and Prickly Pear. Lazy clouds drift through clear sky with lots of sunshine. The Coffee House deck bench is nice to sit on facing out. The plunging Brown Pelicans give you a nice show. Last night we saw several lager land crabs crossing the road near Gorda Peak. The yellow orchids (several places along the roadside) are blooming. Noticed there is new signage around the island (ie Savannah Bay). It is very quiet here, with gusts from the east, clear and warm. Coffee House is a hexagon - resembling a flattened circus tent - with a 4x4 center pole. Each radius is about 10 feet from the center pole. The place is just right for 2, but not three, people. It is very private, itÕs at the end of the lane before the jetty. The steps to the beach are on the other side of Tea House. The bathroom is kinda small, but has great water pressure! The ceiling fans, combined with the louvered windows and the breeze, allow you to ÔcontrolÕ the air flow and sunshine. This keeps Coffee House nice and comfortable, with very few flying bugs (there are a few who have found me, I have about 7 bites). The Tea House neighbor (Mat) saw a 4 foot Iguana here, hope to see that. There are several sizes of lizards and gecko around here. Snorkeled around (to the east) the jetty and rocks. Saw lots of fish. We had lunch at Mad Dogs - Sandwiches and Pina Coladas -Stopped at Dixies for Ice Cream. Had Dinner at Chez Bamboo - Great steak and lobster. <br><br>12 May We had breakfast with Lucy at the Lighthouse (they offer basically one choice: Hearty Breakfast). We got a dingy (for three days) and paralleled the coast to Biras Creek and Bitter End before stopping at Prickly Pear (the Sand Box). We hiked over the hill to the other side of Prickly Pear, where there are some nice quiet beaches, long and sandy, almost deserted. Saw a Spotted Eagle Ray in the ell grass. My first. Wow! There is a fine snorkeling reef at the far end of the next beach (to the north). We hiked back to the Sandbox for lunch with Debbie and Roti. We motored back to Coffee House (very breezy). While walking to the Lighthouse I saw the Iguana sunning on the road. We went to the Mine Shaft for dinner (good ribs and chicken) and Cave ins. Both Ronny and Aline are still there and as nice as ever. We saw two satellites - someone suggested Ôspace junk?Õ- streaking through the sky. This was pre-Caveins! It is nice to be reminded that the sky is so full of stars and yet so dark. <br><br>13 May We motored over to the Fat Virgin (at Biras Creek) for breakfast - got there a little early (about 20 minutes) - Sorry they no longer do breakfast, but they do lunch (at 10 am). We had a tuna sandwich and microwaved chicken roti (neither were very good) but Ester (the cook/server) was very pleasant. We motored back to Coffee House. Later we motored around Mosquito Island - poor snorkeling but nice little sandy beach for soaking up the rays. Decided to eat in tonight. Shopped at BuckÕs, and got everything ready, only to find out we had no gas for the stove. We had dinner at The Rock (steak was very good and lobster was nice) instead. We sprayed bug spray around all of the screen frames, and opening. The flying bugs (mosquitoes, and not noseeums) have been nearly invisible, but they are still here (I have about 30 - 40 bites). they hide in the bathroom and closets. Burning coils and spray Off seems to help.<br><br>14 May We have a breeze, with gusts, just like yesterday morning; louvered windows help control it. The endless parade continues through the reef (Mosquito - Prickly Pear). The spotting scope (an old birding scope - Swift Searcher, 20x, 40x.60 mm) is nice for watching them. We motored to Oil Nut Bay for some snorkeling (not too good) and sunning (great). Also went back to Prickly Pear back beaches to snorkel the reef (good). Stopped at Saba Rock for lunch (jerk chicken tacos - good, not to spicy. Stopped by BEYC for painkillers and quick shopping, then the boat had to returned. Nice and sunny all day. We had dinner at the Lighthouse with Ulillie (pasta prema vera -huge portion and pretty good- and ok steak. Happy hour is fun with a great view. We found we had a flat tire so walked home in the dark. Boo! <br><br>15 May Up early and quick tire change (you have to find at the tools etc first, no problem). Later (8:30 am) while flying my kite (2 for $1) on the little Leverick bay jetty, saw first one and about 5 or 6 spotted eagle rays come into little Leverick bay and feed (I guess thatÕs what they were doing) Way cool! They could be seen from both Coffee House and Tea House as well as the beach there. They were there over 1 hour. I saw one ÔdisturbÕ the sandy bottom (eating?). They would glide over the bottom - seemingly effortlessly. We even saw a couple of them break the surface! Wow. We went to the Dog and Dolphin (Nail Bay) for an early lunch (sandwiches and weak drinks) before making our way to Mountain Trunk Bay for some sun (too hot if not under one of the thatched umbrellas) and snorkeling (fair to the right side with nice coral and lots of fish). Filled the Samurai up ($14) and back over the hill, with a quick dip in the LighthouseÕs pool, then back to Coffee House. There is a nice, gentle breeze. Very quiet and peaceful. Tried to fly my kite, but the winds was too erratic. They fixed out gas problem so we had our first Ôhome cookedÕ meal. It looks like it may rain tonight, there is a gentle, still at times, breeze. The bug bites are up to about 50, and the two fly swatters are getting a work out.<br><br>16 May There is a nice breeze and sunny, with no rain. It is so quiet here. Tried to fly my kite, but the winds was too crazy - gusty and then slack - kite pulls out of you hands and then suddenly plunges into the bay sometimes to be pulled back out by a gust. The boat parade began about 9 am. We had lunch at a new (within last year) Virgin Gorda restaurant: Mr. Fritz Oriental restaurant. We had soup, spring rolls, shrimp cocktails, and chicken w/ veggies, all of which was pretty good, but with an ÔislandsÕ taste. We stopped by Little Dix Bay (now prefaced with ÔRosewood ResortÕ) for a refreshing drink and a little shopping. We proceeded on to Guavaberry Spring Bay to check it out, before we move in tomorrow. Meet Tina, we are in Tamarine House, and can move in anytime in the morning. We snorkeled around Little Leverick Bay, to the the left, and saw a porcupine fish and several other neat fish. It has been hot and humid today, even with some wind it gets a little sticky. We had dinner with Ulillie at the Lighthouse (black bean soup and ribs were pretty good).<br><br>17 May Up early and packed (mostly in plastic bags), with a stop for laundry ($2/wash, $2/dry). Monica (Leverick Bay Villas representative) informed us that there had been a burglary on Mahoe Bay last night. The guy goes only for cash. Seems he comes into an occupied villa, while people are in other parts of the villa, and hits the bedroom night stand. Put your cash in the provided safe, is the message. Monica stressed that he only takes money. There was a similar concern last May (2000) on Mahoe. We checked in to Guavaberry early. Tina was very pleasant, and I think must say the same Ôspiel countless times, yet we felt like it was her first time. Very welcoming. She showed us the way to GBSBÕs beach, and the cactus and night blooming Sirius (spelling?) that would be blooming tonight. She escorted us to our ÔsecludedÕ home, which she picked for us. She did well!! A huge (12 - 18 foot) granite boulder anchors the front deck of Tamarine House. This house is identical to Coffee House, well almost. Tamarine House has a large (12 x 15) back covered deck which is accessed through a door in the front room. The deck is surrounded on two sides by scrubby brush, cactus and granite rocks. The other side of the deck is the back side of the front deck boulder. The back side has many neat erosion spots (potholes) that form pockets for water to pool in and for cactus and orchids to struggle to survive in. You know this is cool! A few trash cans of water helped. Thanks Tina!! We had lunch at Dixies and picked up fresh del monico steaks ($6) at BuckÕs for dinner. We cooked them on a charcoal grill, very tender. We snorkeled around GBSBÕs beach toward Spring Bay (neat around the boulders, but watch out for the motorized dingys). A beautiful little beach with picnic tables and chairs for GBSB guests. Tamarine is very quiet with excellent views. No one is here except the unit on the other side of the boulder. The bug, on the other hand have been eating me up! Smoldering coils and candles, and 100% DEET...they are still chewing me up. I have over 100 bites. We walked over to Top of the Baths for drinks and to watch the sunset, place was empty, except for a young couple with a 3 year old. They saw turtles near Little Dix Bay. They were staying at LDB, said some of the LDB staff were ÕrudeÕ. The drinks were WEAK. The air was still, a little humid, with a steady stream of clouds, but no really cool sunset yet. We walked back to our Tamarine House, pleased as punch. <br><br>18 May I am losing the battle with the Mosquitoes! We stopped at RosyÕs for more coils (50) and candles (12) and fly swatters (2), and it is like we are doing nothing. We cooked breakfast here, tasted great and we got to watch the land crabs and chickens and lizards eat the scraps. We watched them most of the morning. We had lasagna (for dinner) from GBSBÕs commissary (honor system) which was pretty good and very filling. We had a light rain most of the evening - filled most of our potholes. The humidity broke with the rain, but the sky was very (90%) overcast most of the day. The night blooming Sirius and cactuses were neat. We just spent the day limin' at Tamarine House. We did not even go to a beach today. Yikes! <br><br>19 May The mosquitoes are very active this morning. We went to Savannah Bay. Saw a small (1 - 2 foot) shark (sand tiger?) working the sandy area. Snorkeled toward LDB and saw 2 small hawksbill turtles. We had brunch at LDB ($25, boy is it good). Their Mud Slide drink is very large. A child started singing Òhappy birthdayÓ when he saw it come to the table. We stayed ÔhomeÕ for dinner (from GBSBÕs commissary). There is a lot of bird activities around Tamarine House. There are flocks of smooth billed Anis and black faced grassquits. We even have a seagull who sits on the rock and squawks for bread. Also there are two black cats and 3 dogs. Two of the dogs (Scruffy and Bo) belong to GBSB and the other (Tut) is a neighbors. Scruffy and Bo slept on and under our deck last night. The mosquitoes are almost unbeatable. We had to go to BuckÕs for more flyswatters. I have broken 3 so far - I keep killinÕ while chillinÕ.<br><br>20 May Scruffy spent the night on the front porch. The gull was by early for some bread. The bugs were not too bad last night, but they are making up for that this morning (I even broke one of my new flyswatters). So far the only thing that has helped with the mosquitoes is spay OFF. I have given up on the coils and candles. Walked down to look at the night blooms and found Bo on the way, sheÕs now on the front deck with Scruffy. They both seem to like Pupperoni, however Bo is much more the lady (Scruffy stops at the first knuckle). We had breakfast (good eggs Benedict) at the Bath and Turtle and stopped by BuckÕs for more flyswatters and some Òelectronic mosquito destroyer pads - VAPE MAT E, made by FUMAKILLA. You plug them in (they also have a table top unit). WeÕll see if they work. We have a nice breeze which is keeping the mosquitoes at bay. It is sunny with about 50% overcast, not too humid and very pleasant. We spent most of the day liminÕ at Tamarine. We had lunch (chicken) at Dixies and grilled steaks at Tamarine House. The bugs outside were ridiculous, but inside they were at ease - the Fumakilla seems to help, the mosquitoes were not gone but a lot less of them. Tamarine is very pleasant and quiet, we are the only ones at this end. We went to the Mine Shaft for cave in with Aline and Ronny, Wow they were GOOD. We stopped an looked at the night blooming cactus and night blooming Sirius. Every where you look around GBSB things are blooming, day or night. We sat on the rock and looked at the stars - the sky was bright with lower clouds, but very dark with lots and lots of stars. Really neat.<br><br>21 May The mosquitoes were not too bad last night or this morning, a few but a lot less then before FUMAKILLA. The sky is overcast, with a lot of dark clouds, and there is a nice breeze. Scruffy slept inside last night. No sign of Bo. Keturah (maid) is very nice and does an outstanding job. Tamarine House is very clean. We had lunch at the Bath and Turtle (bean wrap was pretty good). Tried to fly my kite, but wind would not cooperate (kite in the trees like Charlie Brown). Our friends are arriving today and will be staying in Guavaberry House, which is across the way, and behind some boulders. Tina gave us the keys to Guavaberry House so we could lay in some supplies. (coffee, milk, beer,etc). Took a quick swim at Spring Bay before a stop at the Mine shaft for a cave in. Planned on dinner at Chez Bamboo, except they are closed on Mondays. Went next door to Dixies. The bugs are in retreat since the Fumakilla arrived, still a few, but bearable.<br><br>22 May Scruffy and Bo slept inside last night. We had a light rain this morning which cooled everything off. It is very quiet - only the birds and the sound of the waves from DevilÕs Bay area. Very relaxing. Has lunch and a quick dip at Top of the Baths (salads were nothing special). Did some shopping at the Supa Valu (Alma is a hoot! and their prices are better than BuckÕs) for dinner on the grill. Flew the kite for awhile. We snorkeled at DevilÕs Bay, which is very nice. Visited the night bloomer and marveled at the night sky. <br><br>23 May Finally the mosquitoes are at bay! These electric things (RAID also makes a version) help greatly. Scruffy and Bo have been here most of the morning, as well as all of last night. They are both so good, but Scruffy is a little ÔneedyÕ. It is warm, with a little humidity, and a nice breeze. At 9:15 am. walked down to DevilÕs Bay and back (to take pictures) - counted 42 people and 14 boats. I did see a small (1.5 foot) snake on the path. The walk is very quiet and pleasant - sans the other people. We had a lazy afternoon at Spring Bay. We had lunch at the Dog and Dolphin (the pool is refreshing) and dinner at Chez Bamboo (Steak, Lobster, Jerk Pork - Great). Chez also has interesting and very tasty daily soups. <br><br>24 May Up early for some Spring Bay snorkeling - neat in and around the boulders. We moved early (9:30 am) to Island Magic, a newer villa on Mahoe Bay. The place has unobstructed views that reflect in the edge less pool (donÕt look over the edge - itÕs a long way down). A had a short rain shower, which is cooling. We have quickly adopted a lazy mode. Mahoe is the BEST, and a pool, too. We have to keep reminding ourselves that this is real. We had burgers on the grill for lunch and steaks for dinner. The view is the parade here. The sky and water are endlessly changing. We like it here. And, with a little help from Fumakilla, the mosquitoes are not here! Mahoe has a little bit of construction on either side of the tennis courts - a Òsea podÕ like building to a villa and a utility like building. Miriam (maid and a really sweet lady) says there is to be another villa built between Bellamare and Island Magic. DonÕt know when. They have also widen (doubled) Plum Tree Bay Road at the first curve (near Mango Bay office). <br><br>25 May There is a little construction noise, mostly hammering, which is easily masked by the sound of the Mahoe waves. Today huge powder puff clouds slow drifted through the bluest sky. The island lost power for about 11 hours, starting at noon. We had lunch at the Lighthouse on Leverick Bay (they have a generator). We used the grill for dinner. The sky was very dark, as was most of the rest of Virgin Gorda, and filled with stars - neat.<br><br>26 May The boys went to Tortola for the music festival. We stayed around Mahoe Bay. Saw a couple of hawksbill turtles. We had lunch (chicken and ice cream) at DixieÕs and dinner at home. The mosquitoes are almost non existent - especially with the plug ins - they seem to help greatly! <br><br>27 May Breakfast at the Bath and Turtle was the extent of our travels today. Mahoe bay snorkeling and liminÕ today. Saw three Hawksbill turtles, very neat to ÔswimÕ with them. The Mahoe hillside, and Virgin Gorda in general, looks greener than May 2000. The reef looks to be in great shape, however the water seems to be a little cloudy in places. We had home cooked lunch and dinner. The mosquitoes are gone today. I have almost 400 bites (since May 10). <br><br>28 May Power went out about 11 am, the same time as we were renting dingys at Leverick Bay. We motored to the back side of Prickly Pear for a little snorkeling and sun worshiping. We enjoyed lunch with Harris at the Sandbox and had time for a drink at Saba Rock before we had to return the dingys. We returned to Mahoe just as power (about 6:00 pm)was returning. We had dinner at the Bath and Turtle (ribs and crab fritters were good, baked chicken and wahoo were not good). <br><br>29 May Power went out about 9 am, just as were leaving for a day trip to Anegada ($125 each - Fly BVI). We had the BEST rock lobster at the Big Bamboo, it was so tender. Unbelievable! We snorkeled Loblolly Bay near Big Bamboo. Snorkeling was good, even saw a 3 -4 foot Spotted Eagle Ray, got some cool pictures, which was way cool! The beach is so bright we wore our sunglasses in the water. A few of the guys (Joel, Sylvester, and Vidal) from the Big Bamboo taught us how to play dominoes, in exchange, I showed them the shadows and craters of the Moon, through the scope - could have sold ticket - Joel, in particular, was fascinated by the sight - he kept looking and looking. Wow. For me, one of the highlight of this trip. We also used the scope for close up looks at the flamingos (about 100) at the pond. Thanks Tony. Anegada is definitely a do again. We had great dinner at the Mine Shaft - bye Aline and Ronny - See ya'll next May. <br><br>30 May We had a light rain over night, and woke to a neat rainbow next to George Dog and clear skys. Power went out around 9:30 am and was back on around 1 pm. Today was a hot one. The pool was used a lot. Basically a limin day. We had a very nice lunch at Little Dix Bay, and as tradition dictates, our last island meal at Chez Bamboo - Sea bass, salmon, steaks - all excellent, we sure will miss Dale. <br><br>31 May Up early for a good bye snorkel in Mahoe. Saw and photographed turtles. Power went out about 6:15 am and came back on about 8:30 am. We had breakfast at the Bath and Turtle. Air Sunshine at 12:30, JFK at 7:00 pm. Already planning trip 2002. <br><br><P ID="edit"><FONT SIZE=-1><EM>Edited by Administrator on 6/15/01 06:33 PM.</EM></FONT></P>