In an effort to cut my ramblings down so you don't gouge your own eyes out reading this, I will just list the day's events and then the restaurants, dishes and thoughts separately.
Drove to JFK so we could do the JetBlue direct flights. No issues (except the Conch shell snafu) or delays going either way. Liked the new part of the SXM terminal. Also liked the new Customs check-in machines at JFK. Not sure why the flight attendants gave us the customs forms, because when I handed it to the customs girl, she wouldn't take it and said, "that's garbage".
SUNDAY - Got our white Corolla from Kenny's. Lesley was waiting when we walked out of the terminal at 11:45am. Did the paper work while the luggage (why in hell do we have sooo much luggage for 5 days?) was being loaded, mostly, in the trunk. Off to, The Cliff at Cupecoy to check in if they let us, or drop the luggage at the desk. They checked us right in and we go up to E-6 and drop the bags, show the Daughter and Son-in-Law the place, and change for the beach. The girl from Shop and Drop arrives 5 minutes after we do, and puts everything away. We head to Rainbow, in Grand Case (via the Lowlands) for lunch and beach time. Stayed and enjoyed the beach and a couple of adult beverages until about 6pm. Back to E-6, get ready for 8pm reservations (all dinners were 8pm reservations) at IZI. To Starz Casino for our nightly donation.
MON.- Up, coffee on the terrace looking out over the ocean, I could do this every day for the rest of my life. Then to Chesterfield's for breakfast. Shopping for booze, jewelry, and T-shirts in Philipsburg before 1pm when the ship docks. Nice deals on Vodka, Amoretto, and shirts, not sure about the jewelry but Mary was happy, so I'm happy. The booth owners in the market area from front street to the parking lot seemed overly anxious, like a timeshare salesman, which is why I like the Marigot Market better. Back to E-6 , drop the swag, change and head to SSBB for lunch and so we can show the kids the big planes land. We get there and Mary takes a seat to order drinks for us while Daughter, S-I-L, and I head for the center of the beach. Standing there for 10 minutes and a 757 takes off. See idiots hang on the fence, CHECK, stand there 5 minutes more and here comes the Air France, right over top of us. See a giant plane land, CHECK. We head back to SSBB for our drinks and Mary, sitting with nothing, says, "I haven't seen anybody yet. I say, "then let's go to Karacter for lunch and some beach time". The beach and water was clear of seaweed but much bigger waves, of course, than at Rainbow. Left there and went to the Grand Marche by Mark's for supplies. Locked my keys in the trunk with our bags (as I've said before, it's no fun being dumb). The service desk in the store was very helpful calling a lock guy, who was in the neighborhood, and he had us in our car in about 20 minutes. Dinner in Marigot at Tropicana. Seated inside, along the railing, as we requested. Everybody made a big fuss over my S-I-L because it was his birthday (I had told them that when I made the reservations a couple of weeks before), which he enjoyed greatly. After dinner we made our deposit at Princess Casino.
TUES.- Coffee on terrace, then Zee Best for breakfast. then off to Anse Marcel for the day. Crazy road to get there. Thought we might need to get out and push the Corolla over some of those hills, but it was worth it once we got there. Made reservations for lunch and then got chairs by the water. Had a round of drinks, then swimming and snorkeling and walking the beach. Beautiful beach, calm, shallow water, attentive beach service. Left around 4pm. Back to E-6 to get ready for dinner. Back to Grand Case for dinner at Piazza Pascal. We found a place to park (lot was crowded, as something was going on) on the street just past the restaurant. Walked in and the place was closed up. I had made reservations weeks before and had traded a few e-mails with Donna. Being completely disconnected (We left our phones and laptop in New York) I didn't know if Donna has issues or what was going on. After getting home and back on the grid, I saw that Donna had e-mailed me and on Monday and said that there was something going on in Grand Case on Tues. and it was going to be crazy there so they had decided to be closed. My wife was really looking forward to eating there again, and was starving after the crappy lunch she had (read about it under restaurants), so she said, "let's go back to IZI". OK with us, so back to the Dutch side. Get to IZI, and they are closed. Which, we actually knew, but had forgotten. Now where, it is getting late. Mary wanted pasta, so how about Tutta Pasta. They look like they wanted to close, and we were the only ones there, but they greeted us warmly and were very patient as we enjoyed wine, apps, and dinner, never rushing us. We skipped dessert, and I suggested we see if Moulin Fu was open still and get it there. Great idea. Great dessert, and fabulous Vanilla/Espresso Rum after. That place is going on our must do dinner list for next time. Into Casino Royale for or donation.
WED.- Coffee on the terrace, then to Marigot for the market. I hurried everyone along, saying "we've got to get there early." Went to La Suciere for breakfast. Then to the market, which was just getting going, with only about 1/2 to 2/3 of the vendors set up. I was a big hit with the rest of our crew at that point. Bought a bunch of stuff,- jewelry, spices, shirts from the Secret Spot, paintings, etc., and the vendors were much more laid back than Philipburg. Off to Orient Beach. Two boats in port, (must have got in early) and the place was packed with "boat people" already. Parked by Kakao (sp?) and they had chairs right down to the waterline, and almost full. All our favorite beach bars gone due to the construction, and just a concentration of people and chairs, the whole vibe just sucked. We spent about 45 minutes there, then picked up and went to Baie Rouge. On the way, we stopped at GCBC for lunch at the Sunset Cafe. Baie Rouge was pretty crowded (more people than I have ever seen there) but with what seemed like regulars, not cruise people. A completely different feel. Much better. Got chairs from Gus's and enjoyed the afternoon. S-I-L swam way around to the rock with the whole through it. Back to Cupecoy and then to Spiga for Mary's birthday dinner. Headed to the Westin, for our donation, but when we got to Oyster Bay, nobody felt like going there, so back to E-6.
THUR.- Coffee as we packed up. Went to SMYC for breakfast, then to Texaco for gas, then to Zee Best for Croissants (Almond & Chocolate) for the plane ride, then to Taste Factory for sandwiches for the plane ride, then back to load the luggage for the plane ride, then to the airport for the actual plane ride. Everything went good in the airport (except the Conch shell thing, explained in a different post) and we boarded early. Hate to leave, but already thinking about the next time.
Some random thoughts-- I love the Causeway. The island was browner than I have ever seen it. I know it was low season, but traffic through Marigot and around Cole Bay hill seemed to move better than any other trip. Tuesday morning, there was a line of brown in the water (I assume it was seaweed) that stretched from Cupecoy, in both directions, as far as I could see, but it was gone on Wed. morning and I didn’t see any evidence of it on the little beach at The Cliff. The Sunset Cafe and Moulin Fu exceeded my expectations (had never been to either, but had heard a lot here) and we will be going back to both for dinner next trip. Anse Marcel took over from Baie Rouge as my favorite beach. Really miss Rima’s for the cheap SXM T-shirts and 1 stop shopping for souvenirs. If you ever lock you keys in the trunk of your Corolla, PM me, because “I got a guy”.
RESTAURANTS SXM 2015 <img src="http://www.traveltalkonline.com/forums/images/graemlins/dine.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://www.traveltalkonline.com/forums/images/graemlins/dine.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://www.traveltalkonline.com/forums/images/graemlins/dine.gif" alt="" />
Rainbow, - 2 Chicken Skewers, Onion Rings, Frites
Lunch Bacon Cheeseburger, Frites
Creole Sampler Platter (Shrimp, Cod Fritters, Stuffed Crab, Fried Plantains)
With chairs, beer, and BBCs bill was $115 plus tip
Food was very good, service was on Island time, Would recommend.
IZI- Dinner-
Apps. - Stewed Baby Octopus over Polenta,
Entrees- Seafood Risotto, Ravioli W/Tomato Basil Sauce, Lasagna, Fettuccine Alfredo
Desserts - Tiramisu, Molten Chocolate Cake
Bottle of Pepoli, 2 beers, 2 glasses white wine, 2 bottles Pelligrino Bill was= ? forgot
Food was great, service was great, a little over the top with the lights and music for the birthdays (but La Gondola was crazy with the LOUD singer for Bdays, too). Still one of our favorites.
Chesterfield’s - Breakfast-
Ham & Egg Bagel, Bacon & Egg Bagel, 2 Eggs O.E. W/Sausage & HF, 2 Poached W/Bacon & HF. 2 Mimosas, 1 OJ, 1 Tom. Juice. Bill was = $ 55 tip inc.
Only have had breakfast here, but it is IMO one of the best on the island. Food is always good, service attentive but relaxed, good value, nice marina views.
Karacter - Lunch-
3 Specials (Grouper Sandwich),Nachos, 8 Bevs.= beers & BBCs. Bill was = $82 plus tip
Actually only paid for 2 specials, because when Mary bit into hers, it was raw. It made her a little queazy ? so she sent it back and they took it off the bill. The other 2 were good, seasoned well. A bit pricey for what it was, but the chairs were free with lunch, so that helps with the value. Not bad, but not Rainbow.
Tropicana - Dinner- S-I-L’s Birthday Dinner
Apps= Spring Rolls, Mediterranean Seafood Salad.
Entrees=Shrimp Stuffed Chicken, Seafood Penne, Sea Bass, Pork in a pot??
Desserts= 2 Chocolate Platter (Ice Cream, Brownie, Tort, BonBon, and something we couldn’t identify), 1 Vanilla Ice Cream.
2 Btl. Sparkling water, 2 Presidente, 1 gl. Pino Gris, 1 Btl. Bordeaux Superior
Bill was=$ 212 plus tip.
The food was very good, although some of the little “side” dishes were unknown, they all tasted great. My S-I-L said the Penne was the best he ever had. The desserts are all fantastic and so well presented. The owner was a treat, and they all made a fuss over the birthday boy.
Zee Best - Breakfast-
About 6 assorted Pastries from the basket, Scrambled Eggs & Bacon, 2 S.S. Up & Bacon W/Toast, Ham & Cheese Omelet W/Toast, Eggs Benedict, 2 Mimosas, Espresso
Bill was = $60 tip inc.
Eat Breakfast here every trip to the island for the Benedict, and the basket of pastries on the table (so, not American, its refreshing even though I wouldn’t touch them if we were home). The thinest, crispiest Bacon ever.
Anse Marcel Beach Restaurant - Lunch-
Cheeseburger W/Fries, Ribeye Steak W/ pot of little round Potatoes, Duck Breast W/ Potato AuGratin, Seafood Special (the sign said-Asst. Fishes). 4 drinks, 2 soda, 1 water
We made reservations at the bar, for a 1:00pm lunch, when we got there at 10:30. Went up right on time, was seated and ordered. Waited a half hour, when another table arrived, talked to the waiter and got their food within 15 minutes. We figured they ordered while still on the beach. Then another table came (6 people) and we heard them order. 15 minutes later, they have food. We are at 1 hour 15 and we still have nothing. I give the waiter, who has not stopped back since taking our order, the Hairy Eyeball and watch him go to the kitchen, and in about 10 minutes later we get food. Everything is there except the Cheeseburger. It comes 3 or 4 minutes later and Mary cuts it in half. She ordered it Med-Well. It is brown on the outside and still mooing on the inside. I like my Beef, medium to med-rare, and I wouldn’t eat that burger. We have to flag down a random girl walking by to send it back because our waiter is gone again. It goes and comes back (the same burger cut in half) 10 minutes later, cooked to med-well, but when Mary tries to pick it up to eat it, the bottom of the bun falls apart. It is mush. They gave here the same bun they brought out with the raw burger on it. The blood and fat from the under cooked meat just completely soaked the bottom. Needless to say, she didn’t eat it. The waiter came by 15 minutes later and says “everything good, no?”. I say NO, and explain about the burger. He goes away, and I watch him talking to the chef, who is waving his arms wildly. He comes back and gives us a story about scraping the cheese off and adding new, and putting on new lettuce, which has nothing to do with the issues. That is not what I expect when I order a $20 cheeseburger. OK, I get cooking the same burger until it is med-well, but the whole bun MUST be replaced at the least. They also didn’t take it off the bill. He obviously forgot to place our order and didn’t even say a word about it. I couldn’t help but feel that if we had a French accent, we would have faired a lot better with the service and attitude.
The Bill was= $212. no tip.
By the way, the rest of the food was very, very good, and the beach wonderful, and “Beach Boy” was great and very friendly. Will go back for sure, just may not eat there again.
Tutta Pasta - Dinner-
Apps.= Fried Mozzarella Bread, Zucchini Sticks
Entrees = Angel Hair W/Vodka Sauce, Spaghetti W/Eggplant, Ziti W Sausage & Peppers, Frutti Di Mare in Cream Sauce, Gnocchi W/Sausage Sauce
2 Btls. Pellegrino, Btl. Chianti Classico, Gl.- Pino Gris, 2 Coor’s Lt.
Bill was $203 inc. tip. This was not our first 2 choices for dinner. Had reservations at Piazza Pascal, but Donna decided on Monday to closed Tues. night. (she sent an E-mail, but we were off the grid and didn’t get it). Then we went to IZI and they are closed on Tuesday. Anyway, the food was good at Tutta Pasta, but no where near the quality of our 2 other choices. Served the purpose in a pinch.
Moulin Fu - Dessert-
2 Sweet Plates ( small- Creme Brûlée, Tiramisu, Rice Pudding 3 Macaroons, Fruit Cup, Vanilla Ice Cream), Espresso, 2 Amoretto, Bailey’s. Bill was $62 inc. tip.
Fantastic dessert, served on a big slate. also a Vanilla/Espresso Rum on the house that was the best Rum I’ve ever had. I would go back there just for that.
Le Suciere - Breakfast-
2 Chocolate Croissant, Ham & Cheese Croissant, Piece of Pepperoni Pizza, Btl. Water
Bill was $8.75.
GCBC Sunset Cafe - Lunch-
Sunset Club Sandwich W/Fries, Sunset Club on W.W. W/Rice, Cheeseburger W/Fries, Baked Potato (they gave her 2), side of Cole Slaw. Btl. Sparkling water, BBc, Strawberry Daiquiri, Amstel Bright. Bill was - $87 inc. tip
The food was very good. The Clubs were 4 levels, not the usual 3, Cheeseburger cooked perfect, a little sweetness to the Cole Slaw. Great view, nice property. On our list from now on.
Spiga - Mary’s Birthday Dinner-
Apps = Homade Buffalo Mozzarella/Tomato Salad (I know it is a Caprese salad, but thats what they called it), Spiny Lobster Ravioli, Crab Cake
Dinner - Spinach & Goat Cheese Gnocchi W/Lamb Ragu, Sea Bass W/Shrimp Risotto, Shrimp & Crab Gnocchi, Filet Mignon.
Dessert - Maple Mascapone Cheese Cake W/Caramel, Chocolate Extreme (Mousse and Truffles), Creme Brûlée.
Btl. Pellegrino, Btl. Agiano Rosso Di Montalcino, 2 Gl. Pino Gris, 2 Presidente
Bill was- $300 inc. tip.
This was (and usually always is) the best meal of the trip. The pasta is all homemade. The Seafood is always fresh, and the Filet Mignon was the best steak I have had since I had the Beef Wellington at “One, If By Land” in NYC 20 years ago. It was so perfectly cooked and cut like butter. So tender, I think it dissolved on my tongue. All the dishes were beautifully presented. The Dinner was a treat to all the senses. Thank You Lara.
SMYC - Breakfast-
2 Eggs O.E. W/Sausage & H.F., Pancakes, Eggs Benedict W H.F., Ham & Egg Sandwich W/H.F., Mimosa, Elmo, Bloody Mary, Water. Bill was= $61
Very ordinary. Actually the worst breakfast of the week. Not horrible, just not good.
Second time we have felt that way, and this time we had first timers (that knew nothing about the place) with us, who had the same opinion as us. Probably won’t be back.
That’s all I got. Sorry to go on soooo long, but it is hard to stop thinking and talking about the island.
Also, Thank you TTOLers for all the answers, insights and opinions over the years.
Love ya. Peace, Out! Phil
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