British Virgin Islands Sailing Charter Trip Report
Trip Date: Jan28-Feb 5 2011
We are novice sailors and wanted to experience a true sailing vacation for the first time. What better place to experience it than in the BVI. After researching several charter companies, we decided on Bella Vita.
Derek, owner and Captain of the Bella Vita, promptly answered all of our questions. He took the time to provide us with a sample itinerary in advance so we would have a better understanding of what to expect on our vacation. His knowledge of the BVI was apparent, and after a week on the Bella Vita, we are quite sure that Derek and his family were meant to offer charters in the BVI.
Derek, his wife Brenda and their son Jared met us in St. Thomas. They were pleasantly surprised when they saw our 2 small bags; it seems we now hold the record for the least amount of luggage . We then boarded the Bella Vita, settled in, and immediately got underway for St. John. What a beautiful yacht she is.
Our berth had plenty of storage, a comfortable bed, and attached head with sink and shower. What more do you need? Having several windows makes it seem spacious and open. Opening the windows at night to hear the water or just looking up at the stars was very peaceful. We anchored in Caneel Bay for our first night, caught a happy hour at “Woody’s”, and then off for a nice dinner at “Castaways” to get acquainted. After a long travel day, we made it a short night.
The food during our trip was fantastic. Brenda is an accomplished chef, and thankfully Derek introduced us to Shrimp and Grits – superb! Jared must be taking after his parents too, because he made a grape salsa served with tortilla chips which was delicious.
We enjoyed many healthy breakfasts like homemade granola with vanilla yogurt and fresh fruit, or pumpkin pancakes with cinnamon and brown sugar. Lunch was a also a treat: fish tacos with apple mango salsa, topped with a cilantro/ranch dressing; Mexican chicken salad with avocado, sautéed onions, black beans, corn and chicken prepared with cumin and chili powder; blackened salmon BLT; and Waldorf chicken salad with cantaloupe and an ice cold Corona.
Soper’s Hole, Tortola & Norman Island
Following our first snorkel of the trip at Waterlemon Cay (St. John) where we spotted a starfish or two, we stopped at Soper’s Hole for supplies and a stroll along the docks. We then headed toward Norman Island for a drink (or two) at “Willie T’s,” then another at the “Pirates Bight”. Here we met some crazy sailors and we enjoyed chatting with them at the bar.
The Indians, Pelican Island
What a beautiful spot and we enjoyed our snorkel here very much. The stars at night were spectacular and the sunset was gorgeous.
Sir Francis Drake Channel
We spent our next day sailing up the channel with the intent to visit some of the smaller islands (Peter, Salt, Cooper Ginger), but we experienced our first bit of weather and ended up drenched during a rainstorm. The rain did not dampen our spirits, though (somehow the surrounding tropical paradise eased the pain), and it wasn’t long until the sun returned to warm us as we anchored off Marina Cay. If this is the worst the BVI has to offer, bring it on!
Monkey Point, Guana Island
A short dinghy ride form our anchorage led us to Monkey Point, definitely one of the best snorkeling spots on our trip. The variety and volume of fish and other sea life there made the ride well worth our time. Our Captain may not have enjoyed the excursion as much as we did, however; he spent his time cleaning up the dinghy after a dive-bomb attack from several pelicans interrupted his nap.
Trellis Bay, Tortola
After our snorkel and another delicious meal aboard the Bella Vita, we headed over to Trellis Bay for a couple of drinks and a walk along the beach there, where we saw a number of little shops and other attractions. We ended our day at Marina Cay, where we enjoyed the companionship of some fellow charter travelers at Pusser’s.
The Baths, Virgin Gorda
This morning we sailed over to the Baths early enough to avoid the crowds from the cruise ships, and jumped off Bella Vita’s stern to enjoy a long snorkel around the huge granite rock formations. We then dropped our masks and fins on the beach and clambered through the rocks and caves toward Devil’s Bay, stopping to enjoy many of the private pools and the wave action as the sea bubbled up between the rocks.
North Sound, Virgin Gorda
After snorkeling and hiking the morning away, we were tired enough to really appreciate a relaxing sail up to the North Sound and stops at several lovely establishments. Saba Rock is a gem of a little island, with meticulously landscaped gardens and beautiful vistas. (We thought it would be a spectacular spot for a wedding). The Bitter End Yacht Club featured a more commercialized atmosphere than most of our stops, but the level of service at the bar, and unquestionably the best mojito on the trip, made it a worthwhile detour.
Leverick Bay
A special mention has to go to “Jumbies”, a beachfront bar/restaurant featuring the Pirate Michael Beans. If you are willing to let your hair down and enjoy an evening (happy hours) of sing-alongs (“revised” traditional pirate ditties), audience participation (conch shell blowing contests) and dancing, then this is a must stop on your itinerary. We kept the fun going once we were back on board with some line dancing on the trampoline – a great night!
Anegada
Beautiful day for a sail out to lovely Anegada. Captain Derek and Brenda allowed their novice sailors a chance to take the helm but they were never far away (just in case). We should note that this was one of the highlights of our trip; throughout the week Derek and Brenda were extremely relaxed and always had the time to answer any of our questions regarding sailing, the boat, or the islands. They delivered on their promise to let us sail as much or as little as we wanted, with no pressure either way. Once ashore on Anegada, we rented an open air truck to tour the island. Derek did the driving and introduced us to great snorkeling spots at Loblolly Bay (Flash of Beauty Beach). We swam with sea turtles, barracuda, rays and many other fish (great spot!) Had a drink at the tiki bar, then off to Cow Wreck Bar for a nice lunch, a few drinks, and enjoyed the beautiful beach.
That evening, we shared a romantic and delicious lobster dinner on the beach at Reef’s Hotel Anegada. Thanks to Derek, the staff sang Happy Birthday to me and gave us a dessert to share.  One of the best nights!
One of the delights of chartering is the freedom to do whatever strikes you at any particular moment, especially when your hosts are relaxed and accommodating. Such was that case the next morning, so we grabbed the kayak and headed back over to Setting Point where we split up, one to shop and the other to continue kayaking around the island.
The Dogs & Cane Garden Bay, Tortola
Another relatively long sail back across to the Dogs, where we had another great snorkel, amazed by the variety of sea life and the unusual rock formations under the water. From the Dogs we sailed west down the coast of Tortola to Cane Garden Bay, where we took up the hill out of town to enjoy the beautiful vistas. Given the extreme slope of the hill, we quickly realized how important it was to rehydrate and refuel when we came back down to the beach. Beach bars like Myett’s and Quito’s knew just what we needed, and their bartenders were happy to accommodate our needs. A relaxing evening on the boat, surrounded by another perfect sunset and later a sky filled with a blanket of stars. Laying down on the boat’s trampoline, with the lack of ambient light we are so accustomed to here in the States, is a stargazer’s paradise.
Sandy Spit/Diamond Cay
After a short morning sail toward Jost Van Dyke, we anchored near Sandy Spit and snorkeled over to the tiny island and nearby reef. We enjoyed walking around the island while watching a few people kite boarding. It wasn’t hard to imagine oneself as a shipwrecked sailor on its gorgeous white beach. Fortunately, we knew the well-provisioned Bella Vita was just a short swim away, and we helped ourselves to refreshing cold adult beverages before a dinghy ride over to Diamond Cay.
Our Captain reacquainted himself with old friends at Foxy’s Taboo while we walked through the mangroves over to the “Bubbly Pool,” an unusual convergence of surf and rocks that creates a natural jacuzzi. Fun! Back to Foxy’s Taboo for a cold cocktail on their breezy open air deck.
Jost Van Dyke
We anchored in White Bay and took the dinghy back over to Great Harbor for a night of good food and great dancing at Foxy’s. Entertainment was provided by the Red Carpet Rats, a live rock band out of Nashville, Tennessee. Another enjoyable evening letting our hair down in the tropics.
White Bay, Yost Van Dyke
Spent the next morning snorkeling the reef in White Bay and after yet another fabulous breakfast courtesy of Derek and Brenda, it was just a matter of choosing our mode of transport into the beach bars. Our last full day in the BVI was devoted to comparing the relative merits of White Bay’s famous concoctions. My husband preferred their famous Painkillers, but I was inclined toward the Sunrise. We particularly enjoyed meeting sailors from all points of the compass at the Soggy Dollar Bar, and we often shared good “craic” to rival any to be found in the pubs of Ireland. One of the joys of chartering in the BVI is bumping into other sailors you’ve met several days before at another beach or bay, and sharing tips and tales with your fellow travelers.
Maho Bay, St. John
We spent our last evening anchored in Maho Bay, faced with the prospect of our dream trip coming to an end the next day. We weren’t looking forward to packing up, but it didn’t take long (see previous). Our sadness was a bit mitigated by: sea turtles and rays swimming off the bow; a dolphin playfully leaping completely out of the water from time to time in the bay; a double rainbow after a brief rain in the distance) shower; and another perfect sunset.
Are you pondering a sailboat charter? Be forewarned – if you don’t care for azure waters and blinding white beaches, perfect sunsets every evening, a sky full of stars, friendly hosts and never dressing more formally than t-shirts and bathing suits, then this is not the trip for you. Are you wondering what a typical day entails? Just picture a beautiful scenic spot, (sometimes several)…day after day after day…going for a snorkel…then maybe a little kayaking…how about a swim… returning to a wonderful meal prepared just for you…maybe a nap…just doing nothing…working on your tan…being pampered and having your every need taken care of…and let’s not forget the cooler steps away, loaded with ice cold beer 24/7. Does that sound like an ideal vacation to you? Then charter the Bella Vita! You will not be disappointed.
