This trip’s crew consisted of myself as captain and my wife as mate. We have been to the BVI twice before with friends. Joining us on this trip were our daughter, 16 & son, 9 and my wife’s mom, 68 & her boyfriend, also 68 (mom’s boyfriend, not my wife’s).

We chartered a powerboat with VIP on St. Thomas, USVI this time, same as our first time. Our last trip was with Virgin Traders on Tortola, BVI. I’ll include a few notes about the differences at the end of this report.

Also, we upgraded our dingy this time. We thought with the older folks it would be a better ride and/or safer. And with our son, we thought we could do lots of exploring and go FAST! We ordered a 15’ center console dinghy with 70hp from Harald at Offshore Marine and it was there waiting for us, just like he promised.

On our first trip, five years ago, we arrived on St. Thomas at 10pm, so we couldn’t see much on the way in, couldn’t find anything to eat on the way to the marina and our beverages were locked in the marina office, so we couldn’t even have a celebratory drink. We didn’t want a repeat on the next trip, so we overnighted in San Juan and arrived on Tortola by noon. Much Better! This time, in order to arrive on St. Thomas during the day, we had to fly out of St. Louis, which is a 3+hr drive for us and a 2+hr drive for mom and boyfriend. Not ideal since we are used to flying out of our hometown airport 15 minutes from our house. We’re still deciding if it’s worth it to arrive during the day. I think next time we will try overnighting in Dallas or Miami on the way.

Wednesday: Drove to St. Louis, arriving at 9:30pm, in bed by 11pm.

Thursday - Travel Day: Got up at 2:45am for our 6am flight - took the shuttle to the airport - got some breakfast - wheels up right on time! After a stop in Miami we arrived at STT ahead of schedule and we were at the Marina by 4:30-ish. I love arriving during the day!

On the way to the Marina we dropped the girls off at Plaza Extra for provisions. Big mistake! It’s more of a bulk store. The Food Center in the West End, where we finished provisioning, was waaaaay better! The prices are a little higher, but the couple hundred bucks you’ll spend there for a week’s supplies is well worth it in convenience and quality. Not to mention the extra cab fare.

So, we got our things stowed, and on the advice of the VIP staff, we dinghied across the marina to a little secluded waterfront bar/grill, the name of which, if I ever knew, I now can’t remember. It seemed to exist only for folks that live aboard in the marina and transplant non-belonger types (I guess you’d say expats, if we weren’t still in a US territory). It was kind of a dive and I loved it! The staff was awesome, the beer was cold and the food was good. Best fish tacos I had the whole trip! After a good time there we enjoyed a good nights rest sleeping aboard in the marina.

Friday - Day 1: We had breakfast at the little restaurant in the marina, Patsy’s I think. Now remember, you are now on island time! Our first trip down we ate at Patsy’s and the food was great, but we weren’t ready for island time and the two hours we were there seemed like an eternity. The food is good. Just relax and wait for it. Also, she is the only person there, so don’t be shy, just walk up and, after saying good morning, get yourself a cup of coffee and ask if you should place your order there at the counter.

We left the marina around 11:30 and proceeded across Pillsbury Sound en route to Soper’s Hole. We grabbed a ball, checked into the BVI and had lunch at Pusser’s Landing. Fish Taco’s were disappointing. After lunch we crossed to our first overnight spot, Norman Island.

There were many open balls around the mooring field and I found one right up front where I like to be. We dinghied over to snorkel the caves and then had dinner at the new and improved Pirates, which was good.

Saturday - Day 2: We started the day snorkeling The Indians. I hadn’t done that before and I’m glad I did. It was pretty cool and turned out to be the best, and nearly only, snorkeling we got to do the whole trip as the swells were rising and the water clarity was falling.

We then made a short snorkeling stop at Peter Island before arriving at Manchioneel Bay, Cooper Island. Overnighting there was a BIG MISTAKE!! I had read somewhere that this was a good place to be during north swells. When I looked at it on the chart I didn’t think it looked very good, but we went there anyway since we had never been there and it was half way to our next stop; Marina Cay.

Some of the fam did some swimming, snorkeling and beach combing and then we had dinner aboard. After that we had the absolute worst night I have ever spent on a boat!

Sunday - Day 3: At first light we slashed the mooring pendant and got the hell out of Dodge!! Kidding...we dropped the ball and politely departed.

We crossed Sir Francis Drake Channel to my beloved Marina Cay. Oh how I wish we would’ve come straight here and just spent two nights. I always like to spend two nights in one place on our trips. It gives the everyone, especially the captain, a chance to slow the pace even more and take it a little easier. The anchorage at Marina Cay was exponentially better than Cooper Island! Duh!

We went ashore, did laundry, had several much deserved pre-lunch Painkillers, had lunch and took a dinghy ride. My son really enjoyed snorkeling around Marina Cay, so much so that he got a vicious sunburn on his calfs. Everyone else equally enjoyed hanging out on the beach, sans sunburn.

Monday - Day 4: I had intended to leave Marina Cay at first light for the crossing to grab a ball The Baths. However, with the swells running we just hung out, had breakfast and after debating our course of action, decided to go to Spanish Town and taxi to The Baths. However, once there we chose to just continue on to our next stop, Leverick Bay, and taxi from there. Wow, glad we chose that route! The views on the 20-30 minute taxi ride were awesome! So worth it! We had the driver stop a couple of times and got some awesome shots of the North Sound and the east shore of Virgin Gorda. I would highly recommend this! As always, everyone enjoyed The Baths. My son loved the 6-8 ft waves crashing ashore at Devils Bay even tho I wouldn’t let him get very far in.

After returning to the boat my son joined the main dock guy (I’m ashamed that I can’t remember his name) and his friend Jose in fishing off of the dock. They were catching these little fish for “soup for supper”. They were very gracious and it was one the highlights in my son’s trip.

We had dinner and enjoyed Michael Beans’ show. He was great to my son who participated and thoroughly enjoyed himself.

Tuesday - Day 5: After breakfast we got a few provisions. A case of Carib for me, thanks! I had forgotten just how good the store is there at Leverick. We decided that next time we will be very conservative with our initial provisioning and then re-provision there. We utilized the showers, topped-off our water tank and were ready to leave by 9am, but couldn’t because we were boxed in by two big cats. We finally departed around 11am.

We rounded Mosquito Island and I very seriously considered heading back down to Marina Cay to get a break from the nasty swells on the way, but ultimately decided to trudge on. Everyone did okay, but it wasn’t very enjoyable, so after rounding Great Camanoe we ducked in behind Guan Island for a much needed respite. We followed the coast around to White Bay, took a deep breath and popped out past the Iguana Head to battle the swells for eight more miles to JVD.

Our intention was to overnight in the Diamond Cay mooring field, but the only open ball we there had no pendant, so we went to Little Harbor instead and then dinghied around to hike to the Bubbly Pool and have lunch at Foxy’s Taboo.

Wednesday - Day 6: After attempting Sandy Spit and snorkeling off of Little Jost, we moved around to Great Harbor where my son and I dinghied in to make dinner reservations at Corsiar’s. As we were approaching the dock I noticed a nice center console dinghy near the shore several yards from the dock. I couldn’t tell if it was anchored there or adrift, but soon knew for sure when a young lady dashed out into the water and frantically pushed it away from the shore. She scrambled aboard and off she went. Hmm, how in the world did that happen? I would soon possibly find out.

After picking up the rest of the crew we dinghied over to White Bay for the cliched, albeit enjoyable, day at Soggy Dollar, Ivans, etc. My son played in the waves so much the sand gave him some serious chaffing. The rest of the fam enjoyed lounging on the beautiful beach.

Later, back at Great Harbor, we dinghied in for dinner and as we were pulling up to the dinghy dock a local gentleman hanging out there helped us by grabbing the dinghy line. Gotta love friendly people!...Right? I thanked him and after handing him two dollars I secured the dinghy to the dock. He then accosted me and told me that I must pay him five dollars to dock there. I said No, it’s free. I’ve been here before and never had to pay...at any dinghy dock. He argued with me. I continued to refuse. He continued to harass and curse us all the way off of the dock.

Now I’m not “like-to-fight-guy” and I also have no desire to see the inside of a jail cell or pay my way out of one. Plus, my kids were there. That being said, it took a lot of self control to not lay into that guy verbally or otherwise. And anyway, I thought, after he doesn’t get his extortion money what can he do to me, right? We went on to have a great dinner with great service just like the last time we were there. I highly recommend Corsiar’s. A good evening was resurrected.

After dinner, as we were nearing the dingy dock, I again saw a center console dinghy seemingly adrift near the dingy dock, but this one looked familiar. Holy Crap! It was ours. Now, being a former Boy Scout, I can tie some knots. I mastered the bowline at 10 years old and still use it constantly. I have never, ever, had a knot come undone, so I could only assume that this jerk from earlier had set our dingy adrift. So, with no other choice, I handed my wife my valuables and waded into the water. I pushed the dingy over to the dinghy dock and we all climbed in.

When we were about 10 yards off of the dock that same jerk came out of nowhere onto the dock and started yelling at us. I couldn’t understand what he said, but I’m sure it was some sort of I-told-you-so.

Thursday - Day 7: I was warned about bringing “International trash” into the USVI, so we gathered up all of our trash and a lot of food which qualifies as trash. If you are going to charter out of the USVI this is something that you need to consider when both budgeting your expenses and building your provisioning list. Regardless, I took the trash and three stuffed double-bagged grocery sacks to the fuel dock. I deposited the trash in the dumpster and gave the dock boy probably $150+ worth of groceries.

We dropped our ball around 9am and headed to back to the USVI, where, as advised, we took a ball in Caneel Bay. We then dinghied over to Cruz Bay and did the whole C&I thing. After that the girls did a little shopping and we had lunch before moping back to our home port.

We had dinner at that same little bar. Very good again. Then packed up and sadly went to sleep.

Friday - Travel Day: Got up at 4:45am for our 6:30 taxi to the airport and 9:30 flight to Miami. We arrived a bit early in St. Louis, said our goodbyes to mom/boyfriend and drove 3+hrs home.

It was a good trip even thought the weather sucked. Our first trip, five years ago, was unseasonably cool, but the water was clear and we had fun snorkeling and sea glass hunting; my wife’s favorite pastime. And then last year, our second trip, the weather and the water was awesome, so this trip was a bit of a bummer for my wife and me. I think everyone else enjoyed it tho. I know our kids want to go back. Maybe I’ll start campaigning for the TTOL Flotilla this summer.

I want to thank the folks at VIP for helping us give our kids a good trip and give my wife’s mom and boyfriend what they called “a once-in-a-lifetime experience”. Nori was helpful and patient getting us booked and delivering info to us. Dennis, who is a rock star, was great in helping us get our things to the boat, settled and briefed on the equipment. Glenn was informative and helpful with the chart briefing. And Sly for taking my son on a dinghy ride in a standard dinghy. He really wanted to drive with a tiller.

If you are reading this to gather info for your trip feel free to PM me with any and all questions. Last year, before our trip, another TTOL’er and I traded info and and pics for this reason and it was great to get and give info that I didn’t have to wonder about being sugar-coated by the charter company and pics that weren’t from the vessel’s earliest days.

Also, as always, I’d like to thank the entire TTOL community for all of the facts, fun and fellowship!

Cheers!


Powerboats from VIP in USVI vs. Virgin Traders in BVI:
1.) Even though this trip with VIP was better than our first, the equipment and service at Virgin Traders, where you’ll pay a few bucks more, is still better.
2.) I think we have spent a few bucks less flying into STT both times, but I don’t know that it’s worth it when everything is calculated in.
3.) I would go back to VIP if it was the better option for the right boat layout and time frame, as it was this time, but if those things were equal I’d choose Virgin Traders.