After reading Hakmat's post about seamanship, I wasn't sure if it was a good idea to share all the lovely mistakes we made as first-timers. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/duh.gif" alt="" /> You can decide.
The pics and more details (what to bring / what not to bring and more!) are on my site at
http://earth.prohosting.com/clmoryel/bvi/gallery_bvi.htm .
July 26, 2003 - Sat.
Almost missed the flight - got into the airport too late and ended up having to ask the staff to fasttrack us. Got a lot of scolding for it, but we made it.
Saw the greatest cloud formations over Puerto Rico before landing in San Juan - many layers with towering thunderclouds. Got to Tortola late, met Dad at the Marina Inn hotel (run by Moorings), and crashed.
July 27, 2003 - Sun.
Got up early to catch breakfast and the boat briefing. Followed by a LOT of running around - bringing our bags to the yacht, returning the keys, getting dive gear, finding a cart, carting the dive gear to the boat, etc. etc. etc.
Took the catamaran out with a "friendly" skipper from Newcastle (UK) for a couple of hours to Great Harbor, St. Peter's Island, and back to Road Town. More running around to fix minor problems with the boat and provisioning. Left dock at 4:30 to find a mooring on St. Peter's Island and found one in Sprat Bay after looking at Great and Little Harbor (and debating whether we really wanted to try to anchor on our first night).
Had a little adventure getting onto the mooring ball. It didn't have a line attached, and Drea dropped the hook in the water, so we ended up taking the dinghy out. Dani did the hook and line routine, I tried to drive, Steve, Drea and Chris tried to keep the line attached to the cat. Had an interesting time with the dinghy motor. Discovered that putting the motor in gear while it's revving isn't really a good idea. Also discovered that if you don't open the vent on the gas can, the motor dies. Sounds obvous yes? Try remembering those things when you're in between the hulls of a moving 45 ft catamaran! The scenery is as beautiful as expected. Didn't take any pictures the first day.
July 28, 2003 - Mon.
Sailed from Sprat Bay past Deadman's Bay (where we had dinner the night before - didn't see much but it looked like the perfect beach: sand, palm trees, hammocks, sound of the surf), Dead Chest Island and Salt Island to Manchioneel Bay on Cooper Island. What a beautiful bay! Picnicked on the beach, took pictures that may become posters if they turn out. Snorkeled over the grassy sand and saw a turtle! Also saw starfish, jelly fish, and cuttlefish.
Took the dinghy to the south end of the bay and snorkelled over a coral reef which harbored tons of fish. Forgot the underwater camera, but should have plenty more opportunities.
Took the dinghy to the beach and ate dinner (conch creole) at the Cooper Island Beach Club - more an outdoor cafe. No ice cream (the REAL treasure here as it is hard to find), but good conch fritters and fantastic atmosphere.
Lay out on the trampoline for a while to look at the stars. Wishing we had brought a star chart - the only thing we miss not having along so far! The calm, quiet sky, rocking of the boat, and expanse of the night sky made me feel right at home. I could sleep out there if there weren't the real possibility that I could get rained on. (Turns out I would have.)
July 29, 2003 - Tue.
Had a pancake (!) breakfast, then sailed to Virgin Gorda Island and couldn't initially find a mooring in front of The Baths, so we moored on a single ball in what appeared to be the middle of nowhere. (It was actually just north of the Baths but there weren't any other moorings around, and we couldn't figure out why.) Had a barbeque lunch, snorkeled by the boat. Dinghied (not a verb?) to the bay and went on adventurous Devil's Walk to Devil's Bay. It was straight out of Peter Pan, we were half expecting the Lost Boys to come out from between the rocks - you climb over, under, between rocks, up and down ladders, wade through pools ....
Went back to the boat, found a closer mooring and snorkeled directly from there around the Baths. Fantastic coral reefs with tons of fish I wish I could identify (that's the other thing we forgot: a good Carribbean field guide). Remembered the underwater camera this time!
Had a little trouble on the way out in that we got a mooring rope entangled in one of the engine props. Dad had to dive under and cut it off. Docking in the harbor (Virgin Gorda Yacht Harbor, St. Thomas Bay) was also interesting - side-swiped a boat (we ended up with some fiberglass damage, their aluminum railing was fine) and into the bow of another catamaran. The skipper of the cat wasn't too upset. He asked for a beer, a tour of our boat and the opportunity to meet the only unattached girl on the boat. Not a bad deal, considering.
Took a long shower on shore!
Ate dinner (again, fabulous: seafood pasta) at the Rock Cafe in Spanish Town. They had ice cream! We got our own private table and are discovering more and more the humor of the locals. Our waitstaff joke with us even more than Frank on the Coral Princess did (see Alaksa journal).
July 30, 2003 - Wed.
Sailed to Great Dog - around the east side first but didn't find any moorings, went back around and moored in a little bay on the west side. Stayed pretty much all day. Went for a short dive under the boat (Dad's tank was losing air and he needed more weights). My IR (infrared) sender for the dive computer wasn't working (can't tell how much air is left), relied on Dani's and Steve's gauges instead (granted, that was risky, but I'm a relatively good breather, and there aren't any UWATEC certified technicians in the middle of the Sir Francis Drake Channel!). Saw coral and fish, nothing big though. Still haven't seen a ray, Drea and Dad have, they have even seen a horseshoe crab! Discovered later that we were only one bay away from Coral Gardens, a fantastic dive site that Dad and Dani went to from Marina Cay several days later. Live and learn!
Steve and I took the dinghy to get closer to the coastline and drove around to take pictures. The colors of the water are amazing...
Sailed from Great Dog to Virgin Gorda (North Sound). Wind conditions had us sailing out so far before tacking that it seemed we were just heading for open ocean (... and beyond!). I could just do this for a week, nothing else. The sun was starting to set and created great light conditions for photographs.
Pretended we were racing with the other boats headed in the same direction. Passed Mosquito Island and Rock to enter North Sound and moored at Bitter End. Watched the sun set behind Mosquito Island. Ate another wonderful dinner (coconut shrimp) at the Bitter End Yacht Club, walked around the harbor, returned to the cat and went to bed.
July 31, 2003 - Thu.
Spent the morning in Bitter End to shop and check out water sport opportunities. Dani and Chris opted for windsurfing; Dad, Steve Drea and I took the dinghy out to Eustatia Reef just beyond Saba Rock and snorkeled in the shallow waters to our hearts' content. Did unfortunately get too close too shore with the dinghy and hit a few rocks, hopefully no coral!
Left Bitter End and went back around Moskito Island, past the Dogs to moor in Trellis Bay (Beef Island). Beautifal sailing, and this time we got a great sunset as well.
Had another dinghy adventure trying to get to the Last Resort restaurant on Bellamy Cay - the water all around the dinghy dock is very shallow, and nothing to indicate as much at night. Made a wide berth around the reef and finally got to the right side of the dock (where all the other dinghys were ...).
This place had the best atmosphere so far - it stirred thoughts (and theoretical plans - Steve is working out most of the details) of creating a similar place and retiring there. The restaurant had more of a "home" feel, with cats, dogs, local artwork on the walls, and the best food I've had so far: red thai curry and home made peanut butter ice cream. There is supposed to be a mascot donkey (Vanilla), whom we did not get to meet, but we did find the three green amazon parrots. The little shop carried some of the usual and some more unique trinkets.
August 1, 2003 - Fri.
Started the morning by putt-putting (dinghy expression) into Trellis Bay and checking out the local artist studios. What a beautiful place! Dad bought a sea turtle print from Aragorn (yes, there are countless references to Middle Earth here - I keep seeing a ship called The Silmaril). Steve and I hung out on the hammocks outside the studio (hut ...) while Andrea played with the local cats. I could've just hung there for the rest of the day, but we had a long trek around the north side of Tortola ahead of us. Did manage to find a mug I liked (I guess I'm collecting those now, have one from Alaska too).
The longest sailing day so far! Left Trellis Bay, passed between Great and Little Camanoe, then between Guana Island and Tortola, around to Sir Francis Drake Channel to moor in The Bight at Norman Island (note that we have not been anchoring!).
Have a sunburn in spite of the sun tan lotion, so I borrowed Dad's skinsuit for the snorkeling in the Caves. Lots of people there but for good reason. The caves aren't too deep (as far as water is concerned) but with more fish than any other place we've seen - even a barracuda. Ventured a little into the caves and saw thousands of silver fish, chased after the parrot fish to get a good photo ... Steve and I encountered what I think was a Portuguese Man-o-war. No pictures of that thing - it's highly poisonous, we just wanted to get away!
Returned to the moored cat to watch the sun set, cooked our own dinner. Relaxed on the trampoline to look at the stars before turning in for the night.
August 2, 2003 - Sat.
Got an early start this morning and motored out (with the help of the foresail but effectively fighting the wind and the current) to Salt Island. Got there before anyone else (with one exception) and there were plenty of moorings. Moored just above the bow of the wreck of the HMS Rhone and dove for 40 minutes to check out one of the best dive sites in the BVI. Explored (that's a loose term) the bow and midsection of the wreck, saw some of the most beautiful coral and sponges with vibrant colors in spite of the 80 foot depth. Saw my first ray! Also saw a cowfish and the largest angelfish so far. Too deep for the camera but really wish I could have brought it along. A sea turtle had greeted us on arrival - popped his head out of the water and dove under after realizing that there wasn't anything more interesting to see.
The swells were high, and we ended up surfacing further away from the cat than planned because Steve ran out of air on the deco (decontamination) stop and had to use my main regulator while I switched to the Air2 (a backup regulator on the BC inflator hose). First time I had to do that - glad it worked! I had trouble swimming back to the cat and ended up at a closer boot, initially to rest, but decided to hitch a dinghy ride back to our boat from a couple of very nice Frenchman (or French Canadians?). Kind of embarrassing, but easier than trying to get there on your own when tired.
Left as soon as we could since we had about as much of the rocking as we could take. Motored but with the mainsail up, downwind back to St. Peter Island and moored for the second time at the Yacht Club in Sprat Bay (nice and sheltered). Steve brought Drea and I back to the resort to walk over to Deadman's Bay, this time during daylight. Fantastic scenery, bright colors from the top of the hill: the tropical flowers, the turquoise ocean, the green palms and bushes ... wonderful!
Found the perfect spot to rest on the beach. Got to swing in a hammock while listening to the ocean and feeling the breeze. Took several pictures to remind myself of that beach - I have found my "getaway" place, the perfect paradise to relax in.
Checked out the boutique on our way back and got Laurie a sand gecko as a cat-sitting thank you gift. Returned to the cat to change into "dress" clothes and eat at the resort restaurant (Tradewinds) - buffet with very good bananas foster. Dad read Dr. Suess' "Happy Birthday to You" out loud to Drea which entertained the waitstaff. Dani and I had both forgotten to bring her gifts so poor Drea has to wait for them. She doesn't seem to mind.
Watched the stars from the trampoline again before heading to bed on our last night on the boat.
August 3, 2003 - Sun.
Sailed around Sir Francis Drake Channel a bit before heading into Road Town Harbor. The conditions were perfect with plenty of wind and (of course) gorgeous weather. Dad docked the boat without a hitch and we offloaded. It's amazing how much more you can feel the humidity when you're not on the water.
Got a taxiride (island style - cram as many people and luggage into the back of a modified Ford F350 as you can and race like a bat out of hell through the narrow winding streets) to the Ferry Dock at Trellis Bay. Went to revisit the stores at the bay while waiting for the Marina Cay ferry. The Flukes studio was still closed (we had already seen Aragorn's). Bought a print of his anyway at the market store.
The ferry arrived to take us to Marina Cay - what a beautiful place! The villas are at the top of the hill and provide an awesome view of the surrounding shallow reef and the islands east of Beef Island. Got settled in, took some pictures of the spectacular views. It's a small island but with anything you need (restaurant, dive shop, Pusser's store). Did I mention the view? It's very different from the narrow beach and enclosed, sheltered ambiance of Deadman's Bay, Marina Cay has a feeling of simple, elegant expanse. It is surrounded by a breaker reef and a wider shallow area that is more protected and reflects back a light turquoise color.
Steve and I hung out on the balcony (with a view) for a couple of hours and had rum punches (rum, cranberry juice, 7-UP).
Had a fantastic tropical fruit covered chicken breast for dinner and painkiller cheese cake (fashioned after the local rum drink). There are many old black and white photographs of the area on the walls of the restaurant and a beautiful display box with sailor knots. Andrea made friends with another local cat.
August 4, 2003 - Mon.
Spent the night feeling like I was still on the boat - back at the Rhone in fact, with the 5-7 ft swells. Talk about being landsick!
Woke up early to catch the sunrise and explore the island a bit. I think between the two of us, Steve and I shot 4 rolls of film, just on Marina Cay. The original house from the first owners still stands and now acts as a small library ("take a book, leave a book") and is dedicated to Fritz, a local "sea gypsy" who died in 96. It is right next to an outdoor/indoor (as many other places here) happy hour bar which is apparently only open during the main season. Found a pond and fountain in the bar and said hi to the turtles and fish it housed.
Also found a small semi-enclosed garden with trellis that could (and probably has) serve as a wedding area. I can't get over how beautiful this island is ...
Had a jerk chicken lunch and hung out at the beach in the shade while waiting for the midday heat to pass. Dad had swum (snorkeled) around the entire island earlier in the day, and Andrea went off next to explore the break reef.
After lunch, Steve and I developed a mostly successful strategy for getting out to and just to the other side of the breaker reef (the landward side was too shallow and didn't offer very much to see). We ended up climbing around the rocky shore to the west end of the reef (the current was too strong to swim against), and drifted down along the outside of the reef. Saw a large ray directly below us and got pictures this time. Also saw a huge pufferfish, pipefish, all the same coral reef inhabitants we had seen before. We were there at high tide, so we were able to swim over the break reef and back to shore without getting up and walking over it (it's that shallow!).
Came back to shower and rest by the beach before dinner. The poor waitstaff were running around trying to cover for their missing collegues who were on holiday. We are leaving just at the start of their Carnival and everyone was going on (or already on) vacation. Another group consented to take a picture of the entire group with our sailor hats and Dad with his captain's hat and pirate sword (gift from Judy). Blackbeard the parrot and the eye patch that came with the set were AWOL.
August 5, 2003 - Tue.
Woke up again in time fo the sunrise. Took a few more pictures - I'll probably find that I'm taking the same pictures over and over again, but that's ok. As much as I like to sleep in, I also really enjoy this quiet time of day. Steve and I sat and watched the sky brighten until I got too tired and went back to sleep. He took the camera and explored the island again.
Finished packing, brought all of our luggage down (did I mention the villas are on a hill?), and spent the last hour on the beach before taking the ferry back to Beef Island.
On our ascent, I got one last picture of Marina Cay from the sky.
Might I add that we had the rare opportunity to return to the Caribbean this year, but to St. Kitts. Now we want to get back to the BVI next year. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cry.gif" alt="" /> A whole year ...
