BVI 2004
TRIP REPORT


Background:
We sail at Lake Texoma, north of Dallas Texas. This is our 5th trip to the BVI in as many years. We have chartered with a different company each year; from the biggest to the smallest. This has given us perspective as to what a GOOD charter company looks like.

Charter:
This year we chartered through BARECAT out of Soper Hole. We chartered a 42’ Venezia catamaran (Chat du Soleil). Understanding the thrill of the trip is still fresh, I can honestly say they provided service and communications as good as we have had. Lynn operates a remote reservation office in the US that is quick to respond; Mike maintains and manages a quality fleet at Soper. (I don’t mean to sound like a ‘add’ for BARECAT, but if it’s right, it’s right)

Trip Report:
I have been reading and learning from TTOL for about 3 months now. I am posting this BVI Trip Report from the perspective I had in preparation for this trip in hopes that I might answer questions for other TTOL readers.

Crew:
Jeff & Christy, Doug & Sandy, Tommy & Karen, Melissa and me (Dan)

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Days 1 > 4
(Sunday)
We started from Soper Hole (West End Tortola). With the all passports and boat papers in hand, 2 of our group of 4, dinghy to the Custom Office in Soper to exit the BVI going to USVI. The customs officers were friendly and accommodating. We filled out the required forms, pay the $10 fee and 30 minutes later were returning to the boat.

It is 2:00 pm as we leave Soper heading down wind to St. John and Cruz Bay to enter the USVI. We are told that the customs office will close at 3:30. Based on our anticipated sailing time, we should just make it. We decide to get on a ball at the west end of Caneel Bay, then dinghy around the point into Cruz and walk to customs. With the group of 4 in tow we reach the customs office at 3:45. Thinking we are too late and the office is closed, we round the corner only to find a cheerful face at the window ready to receive our group (we understood all boat members needed to be present and accounted for in the US – I can say they asked if all people were present). Again we fill out the required papers, pay the $10 fee and 30 minutes later are headed to find a nice place to sit down and enjoy a good drink.

I must comment on our choice of anchorage. Being located so close to Cruze Bay, we felt the wake of every ferry into and out of Cruze. I was never so glad to move the next morning. We made a short sail in stiff winds to Watermelon Cay. Leinster bay was recommended by TTOL readers in response to a query I posted regarding best locations at St John. The snorkeling around the Cay was great; lots of variety, shallow to deep water and all the fish one could want to see. We spent the night in this quite private location with 3 other boats. Everyone in our group said we should revisit this spot again. Thanks TTOL. This was a scheduled point to take on 2 more members of our group. They taxied from Cruze to the Annaberg sugar mill where we loaded them into the dinghy and back to the boat.

Our next stop was Jost Van Dyke. This was a good sailing day with steady winds. The sail across went too fast. We entered Great Harbor finding it full of boats. After 5 to 6 tries to set an anchor and avoid dragging into someone, we motored around to White Bay and got on a ball. It is now time to reenter BVI waters. We loaded into the dinghy and motored back around to Great Harbor to the dock. The customs office was quite and we were the only group checking in. Same report as before. The customs people were helpful, friendly and as always efficient. This was also the first entry into the BVI for two of our group and did not present any problems. We were on our way to Foxy’s in 30 minutes. As we sat in Foxy’s enjoying drinks a wave front blew through that made me happy we were on a ball. I later found out the winds were gusting to 40. While waiting for the rain to let up we met sailors from Texas. Not only were they from Texas but they were TTOL’ers. Dave it was a pleasure meeting you and your group. We love Jost and stayed two days.

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Days 5 > 8

After relaxing at Jost 2 days we sail back to Tortola to meet the last 2 in our group, making a total of 8 in the party. We enter Cane Garden Bay and all unload for Quito’s. At this time I have my TTOL t-shirt on. While walking along the road to get dinghy gas I am approached by another TTOL member staying in a home at Cane Garden. It is great how this site creates community. I have not been in Cane Garden in about three years. Maybe it’s just me, but the semi-quite bay that I always remember waking up to chickens’ crowing, has grown up. The cruise ship people had arrived and the beach was packed. Water skiing, power boats, banana floats and local kids all over the dinghy dock. That brings me to a point I need to share. In review of our itinerary Barecat Charter actually asked if we would take Cane Garden off our list as an overnight stop. I haven’t heard about this, but apparently dinghies are being stolen by the local kids for the motors. We watched kids climb all over all the dinghy, but nothing happened.
Our next stop was The Bite at Norman Island. The wind was strong but steady and we had a good sail around the west end of Tortola. At Norman I expected to see construction going on all over the island, having read about it being sold to a Dr. from New York with plans for real estate development. The Pirate’s Bite will never be Billy Bones.

The next morning we set out for Cooper via The Indians. After a good scuba dive and snorkel we set sail again and beat our way up the channel. Norman had lots of balls, as stated on TTOL, Cooper doesn’t. It is 3:30 and as we approach, the island looks crowded. Surveying the bay we spot one ball (the last) at the north end and tie up to it. The group is ready for more shore time, so it’s off to the Beach Club. The kitchen is closed until 6:30 but the bar is open. Part of our group goes back to the boat, grabs lots of snacks, and we start ‘limin’ on Cooper. That night we see lighting off in the distance but pay no more attention. Early in the morning hours another wave moves through. This time I hear wind blowing across our boat as hard as I have heard. The group scrambled to gather things on deck and hanging on lines. The next morning when it is all over we determine that we lost a t-shirt, dive top and one flip flop. We also find the hinged top to our large ice cooled ripped off. That tells you how hard it was blowing. Jeff and I look toward the shore and see what looks like a garage sale. We take the dinghy in and find safety rings, seat cushions (large & small), shoes (not ours), ropes and on and on. This storm caught a lot of boats off guard.

After the storm the wind is still blowing hard. We watch boat after boat leave Cooper heading north into rough wind and seas. We reef down and start our beat to Savannah Bay, Virgin Gorda. We reach 12 K on a beat. I’m thinking the crew is not liking this. Later they tell me they loved the sail. I call into Barecat wanting to know what the weather prediction is for the night ahead. I don’t want to be on a shaky anchor if we are going to be blown on again. The prediction turns us Spanish Town to get on a ball outside the harbor. Finally the wind begins to lay down and things go back to normal. We dinghy into the harbor, catch a cab and spend the day at Little Dix Resort. We take part in a wonderful Lunch Buffet with a great selection. I spend a best part of the afternoon under a palm tree on a lounge chair asleep. This is want the trip is all about. Good sailing – Good Liming.

At this point I am called back to Dallas for personal reasons. The rest of the group is headed to the North Sound, Anegada, Marina Cay then back to Soper. Today, Friday
7–30, they should be back or heading back to return the boat. If addition information comes out of their sail to the north we will post it for all to consider.

Thanks again to TTOL for all the info and support. Dan Debenport – (Wind Dancer)