Dear TTLO list:
Our choice for Sailing had led us to the BVIs, to "TTOL", and hence our first trip (rather long) report, hope you enjoy...
But first, on behalf of "G"- crew (more below), we want to thank all who actively contribute to this list. The wealth of information posted here made this, our second charter to the BVIs, a more enjoyable one. Our appreciation also goes to GlennA, WalkerM for their directions, nav resources, island recipes (posted on bvipirate.com), to Leta and her husband Ellis for their great pointers on sailing and living aboard a Jeanneau SO43ds sistership ...all tips right on the knot !
NOTES from Last Year's Trip (BVI 1: JULY - 2003):[*]Visited Anchorages - Manchioneel Bay (and Cirtern pt.), The Baths (w/out map!), Cane Garden Bay (CGB), The Indians, The Caves, The Bight...
[*]Trip Highlights - No problems at SJ or Beef airports/luggage! + Got our "G" name from trip's s/v GoLightly + Beneteau's 411 great "sugarspoon" transom for the "kids" and forward head for "us" + Great food and sunset at Cooper Island Beach Club + Sunsail advised us to return to base due to a weather system... and it was fun too having ribs & burgers at Fat Hog's!!! + CGB Music/dance/food inventory and pano-views from "G's" cockpit + Doing the trail at Sandy cay with the kids + Dancing at Jost and walking under the stars ... + WillyTs dinner, bar stories, dance party and tattoos + Many (undisclosed) others ....
[*]1st Mate's (spouse Tere) favourite trip spot - The Bight, close to Pirates. [*]G-crew's favourite trip spots - Total immersion on exploring visited island. The Indians.
[*]Capt. "Darius" favourite trip spots - Sandy Cay and walking under the stars at Jost's Great Bay with the family.
[*]Hints from the crew: "Let's try one with A/C and hairdryer..."
[*]Marcos (brother) and Ana (sister in law) have been in-love ever since they met on this trip!
For This trip's pictures please got to : G-Crew's BVI-1, July 2003 --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
BVI 2: AUGUST- 2004 - The Virgin Gorda North Sound and "Ronde" Tortola Prologue This year's trip was filled with more anchorages and land/sea adventures for G-crew...On February 2004 we reserved the SO43ds Platinum for St.Martin, with the plan of rounding the Renaissance Islands. However, due to Ana and brother Marcos unexpected commitments they could not join us. Instead, we invited a long time college friend and certified diver/rescuer, Mr. Oliver. Captain and 1st Mate decided that while having a guest with a lot of diving experience yet with just a few sailing sorties with us was great, we were better off shifting our base back to the BVIs and visiting the anchorages missed last year. The result was a full blast of non-stop land and snorkeling adventures for all and the rounding of Tortola. The crew knew in advance the week's floatplan "gourmet" <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/chef.gif" alt="" /> menu and activities. A few adjustments were made underway to accommodate individual needs during our July 30th to August 6th, 2004 vacation...
<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/pirate.gif" alt="" />
Day - 1 : Delayed. Yet got to Celebrate 1st Mate's 40th B-day!!! Got delayed in SJ for 3 hours. Noticed a few charterers at the AA 1E gate waiting area with looooong faces, including G-Crew's ... Ran to get pizza with Oliver from new Domino's and "espresso macchiato" stands upstairs. G-crew's morale went up like a blur ... Called Spaghetti Junction and Bobby's to let them know we have been delayed ... From the PA system we learned that our prior flight got CANCELLED and that AA was offering $250.00 p/p for our flight as a "incentive for those who want to stay" ... no way!!! Morale went down again ... until we got our boarding call at 5:10pm ... a YEAAAAHHHH resonated around the entire gate ... Called Sunsail, Bobby's and Spaghetti Junction from the airplane before the turn off cell phone warning (plenty of time here) to let them know our airport pick-up time, delivery of provisions at 7pm and to re-schedule dinner at 9pm ...
Touchdown at Beef! Pipelined thru BVI customs. Got picked up and on to Maya Cove. "Mounted' our "chariot" s/v "Solitaire"...verified correctness of equipment inventory list ... and set my sailing gear. Crew's quarters assignments and unpacking. Bobby's got in at 7pm ... sharp. Yet, No Caribs, No Dr. Pepper for Josh, No Cruzan Pineapple Rum or Guava Juice. Accepted apologies, non-complementary Coronas and Cruzan Mango Rum instead. Sunsail's complementary Pusser's Rum, Painkiller Mix, Tea Mix Kit and Sailing Songs Cd was a delicate touch. Got also two complementary ice bags for the fridge ...
Great dinner at "Junction" (chicken wings good too!). Our thanks to April for the B-Day surprise arrangement to our 1st mate (her 40th!!!) toped with butterscotch after dinner! G-crew's gift to first mate - "Shadow Divers" - since she is fond of Jon Krakauer type books. Noticed some sleepy eyes and decided to head back after a brisk walk via the reggae festival ... Back at the base secured day and wishing all a good night sleep ... G-crew loved having shore powered A/C
<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/snore.gif" alt="" /> ...
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REMINDERS: Next year we are back on getting to our island of choice on the first morning flight or charter a plane from "Isla Grande" Airport on the other side of Old San Juan Bay + Got to say, the TurboPainkiller with mango rum (MangoTurbos ?) instead of the pineapple rum became this trip beverage of choice after a day's work. Exotic and refreshing taste as well (tasted "regular Turbos" a week after trip). Indeed, a sprinkle of ground nutmeg a must!
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Day - 2 : Maya Cove to Marina Cay and The Full Moon Party at Trellis Bright Day, high clouds ... everyone up and on to the shower heads. Soon thereafter to the 8:30am boat brief (four of us took this one), focusing on physical differences with last year's Beneteau 411 and mentally overlaying the info with given notes. On to the nav brief (9:30am) to learn two new pointers - White Bay on Jost and Brewers Bay not recommended for overnight anchorage. Checked weather, got the back-up gps at office, ice for the chest cooler, waterproof tropical fish card at Sail Caribbean Divers, the missing Kayak #2 and 3rd wind scoop. Uploaded waypoints to backup gps (and extra set of points around islands, bays, rocks, landmarks and geaocaches! ) briefed/met with G-crew around the cockpit table, life vest testing ... no small PFD for Rafael, got it ... and on to Marina Cay ...
Moored at Marina Cay a bit after midday while listening to Tom Jones's Greatest Love Songs cd ..."It's not unusual to be loved..." (don't ask me ... why this was G-Crew favourite cd on this trip along with Natalie Cole's "Unforgettable"... played just after nightfall ...) Recognized a couple of faces seen at the SJU here. 1st Mate and Galley Master wanted to stay, so the first dinghy expedition was set onto Monkey Pt. Upgraded dinghy "Son of Solitaire" and fish card turned out to be a great asset for all ... Id-ed plenty of tropical fish there: flutes, yellowtails, "dorises", "nemos" and a "cuda" hidden among "thousands of universities of tiny silver ones (daughter Michelle's quote)" ... During the afternoon sunlight hit Monkey Pt. directly, giving us a nice color tone to our first snorkeling adventure, only one powerboat at Monkey Pt, no one else snorkeling ... Returned to "Solitaire". Had plenty of time for dinner, our first set of "Turbos" and to check out Marina Cay before nightfall.
<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/dance.gif" alt="" />
The Full Moon party at Trellis, as expected, was a plus for G-crew members. Contemplated the artistic Fireballs for a while ... "caravan of dreams" ... time for a couple of Caribs ... and dancing went on till almost midnight. Mother and Jean made friends with a group of young mates visiting from Jerusalem ... a couple of us joined them for sort of belly dancing, limbo and reggae ... well this is what is all about ... celebrating life! ... Glad that the Fireballs got returned on time for the bash, it was worth the suspense and the trip to Trellis ... On the ferry back to Marina Cay we made friends with mates from Denver ... They will keep popping-up till BEYC...
Once back onboard secured the day. Woke up around 3am, grabbed my penlight (red filter on), checked on the night sky .... full moon ... ssspectacular ... also checked on Jean who loves to sleep in the cockpit ... all ok, and back to the cool quarters down below ....
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Brief notes on The SO43ds Platinum s/v "Solitaire": The SO43ds turned out to be, as rightly noted to us, like a Mercedes. The vessel draw an output of 7.53 knots on a broad reach, 18knots apparent, full sails, loaded with crew, gear and provisions ... tested the auto pilot and also managed well ... In sum, loved the delightfull smooth sailing (running not observed, but guess it would be safe & cool because of vang and traveler position), ease of balance, maneuverability, cockpit ample space (beam way aft to stern), storage and the overall quietness of the panda (genset) ... Hammock hooked ... a nice to have for sunrise/sunsets ... raised coach roof w/oversized portholes gave us great "panos" from saloon ... Kayaks a must for G-crew from now on (although a pain to get on-off vessel without touching the teak/gelcoat). Upgraded galley, fridge & stove performed flawlessly. Toaster and Blender came very handy for the Galley Master. Did not had time to "play" with the chart plotter ... Missed the B411 transom but got more aft cabins/berths space ... Yet, i digress since this discussion thread belongs to another forum(s)...
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Day-3 : The Baths Early start to another gorgeous day ... Went for a last visit to Marina Cay, a walk, souvenirs and ice. Knowing that i will be back for a longer stay here to explore Camanoe & Scrub released the mooring ball and on to follow a flotilla of 3 cats until they shifted course towards The Dogs ... (Had to admit, the thought of chartering a cat next year came to mind here...). Some crew members have never been to The Baths and since we want it to round Tortola after the North Sound via open water to Lt. Jost it was now or never. Also, the window was perfect because i knew (from TTOL) that Sunday was a "non-cruise" day...
At The Baths, Jean and Michelle launched the kayaks. We safely hit the beach, and most of the G-crew went on to explore The Baths. Jean, Mother and Capt went directly to the pool "upstairs" for refreshesments, swimming pool, music and the breathtaking view ... sigh. Left The Baths heading back to base. Once docked and secured got a lovely gathering on Solitaire's cockpit with Mr. Oliver friends ... Conversations on deck went on until midnight. Secured the day with routine inspections and the expected trip for the North Sound ...
Day - 4 : The Virgin Gorda North Sound (NS) - Leverick Bay <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/Groovin.gif" alt="" />
Woke-up to a crisp and clear day ... with no "scattered showers" forecast for the day ... Gathered a few items needed around the base and headed towards the NS. Fresh fruits underway while closing on to The Dogs. Approaching Seal Rocks to portside (thought i saw a yacht there...) and Long Bay to starboard with 2 cats anchored ... picture perfect ...
Rounded the Mosquito Rock with Necker on the bow, a few sailboats exiting the NS and a couple others lined up on my stern, entranced the NS with grace, moored close to Leverick resort. We all grabbed a quick bite and launched the Kayaks (getting better on this...). G-crew was on the pier platform in a heart beat, kids made friends with other charter kids ... gave Kayak rides and engaged in a good natured (high angle of elevation shots) small water balloons fight with their parent's "pirate vessel" while riding kayak together ... Then onto the Leverick beach and pool .... Later grabbed a cold one and embraced the sunset view from the pier, then the Capt. of the "pirate vessel" stopped by to say hi and we "bragged" about our prior days work and adventures ... Dinner aboard with complements to the undisputed Galley Master and enjoyed the starry night for a while ... Secured the day.
Day - 5 : The Virgin Gorda North Sound (NS) - BEYC Up early relaxing with a "cafe late" and the NS views fro the cockpit, while one by one, the crew showed up with anxiously staring eyes ... evidently they were ready to explore Mosquito Is. The expeditionary crew dinghyed from Leverick to Drake's anchorage. Three yachts anchored. Briskly headed toward the trail that lead us to Pt. Lookout. Spectacular family picture site here ... sailboats on the background and all. Pictures taken. Sat on the "park" benches for a minute to enjoy the view with the crew and then down onto Rocky Beach. Secluded, sandy and solitaire with pristine waters opted to hang in there until late morning...<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/Umbrella.gif" alt="" />
Back on Solitaire and headed towards BEYC. Once settled had lunch while organized the afternoon "expedition" toward finding a geocach (
BVI's Geocaches ) ... Sure this gave enough to talk along the way (and afterwards) ... found out the cache was .... well, all i can say is that the sunset view was worth the trip!
Dinner on board and got the dinghy ready with red/yellow glow sticks on bow sides (night dive guides use them on tank sides). Crew got onboard with Jean "clearing" the way with our "pelican" light toward BEYC's main building second floor light markers. Dinghy docked and everyone just went on their own ... Later we met at the dinghy dock and saw a majestic searay near the dock ... left and secured the day.
Day - 6 : Lt Jost, Sandy Spit and Cane Garden Bay (CGB) Pit stop at Leverick ... (this one is worth many visits), got the non-threatening news around tropical storm #2, so decided to go on with our plans ... Cast off and on to Lt. Jost ... Lots of sailboats out there heading to/from Anegada ... true to a TTOLer earlier post, "it's like I-95" ... Passed Seal Rocks and The Dogs watching the "rhythmic" little white dots "dancing" far away and onto later rounding Camanoe and Guana with silence at the cockpit. G'crew eyeballing the islands and sure some reflection here ... later off Brewers Bay got our week's first (quick) rain shower ... Then on to Lt. Jost between Sandy Cay and Sandy Spit ... couple of yachts, one on each end of the Cay, no souls around ... so decided to "tuck-in Solitaire far and across from Diamond Cay, "hugged" by Lt. Jost, ...s/v "Solitaire" on solitaire! Had a lunch down below due to another (longer) rain shower ... relaxed on the climate controlled saloon. Cleared and later dinghyed to the lovely Sandy Spit ... snorkeled for a while until a stronger shower hit Sandy Cay ... could have stayed a bit exploring as G-crew's requested but decided to return to vessel ... No fun when sun gets blocked by clouds and underwater visibility diminishes plus want to get before sunset to CGB ... (trip's item that the crew never forgives).
<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/greendog.gif" alt="" />
Once at CGB got Pizza for Josh, courtesy of Drinking Man's Guide and a well deserved round of Painkillers for us, right-on-the-beach ... Part of G-crew enjoyed the beach while Josh made friends with a nice doggie that stayed at our side all the time... Later, back on "Solitaire", secured the night early ... no rain showers that night.
Day - 7 : The Indians and The Bight Bright and early, no hangover from Painkillers (nor from "Turbos", in fact, none reported last year's trip either). Prepared the vessel for departure to our final anchorage with a snorkel stop at the venerable Indians. Rounded the west end of Tortola with few traffic on the west end, G-crew had a chance to make a round of cell phone calls and reached The Indians before noon for some great snorkeling. Explored them extensively this year, in a tight group snorkeled way up the dinghy mooring balls, pass between/around rocks (no significant swell) to see the nice "wall" and back to the sailboat ...
"Fish card" an asset again until we almost thought we lost "the card" <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/Yikes.gif" alt="" /> ... Josh accidentally dropped it just around the corner of the wall but (thank god) closer to the dinghy moorings, on 25-30 ft deep... Of course i got challenged by G-Crew ... torpedoed toward it,"compensating" a couple of times on the way down and slooooowly releasing a stream of tiny air bubbles all the time ... got it on my second attempt .. it was between two isolated midsize rocks crack ... sideways ... Kids got so excited (Dad saved the day!)
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REMINDER: Buy a adjustable hand strap for the Tropical Fish Card...Practice more "aerobic" Sailing...
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Got the whole afternoon ahead of us so entered The Bight with the traditional seagulls escort "reception" surrounding our stern ... some of them stopping for pictures on top of the BBQ, other closer to the stern lifelines and a whole "club" aboard the dinghy ... lost one knot of speed here due to increased drag...
<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/titanic.gif" alt="" />
Deep into The Bight, first row, close to Pirates and the 1st Mate is in the water ... so are the G- crew, the floating mats, the Kayaks .. hammock .... Jean went hiking ... what a mess!! (i think) until another bareboater arrived, lined up and launched their windsurfer and kayak ... good! Let's "organize" something, so we got G-crew into a kayak competition ... starting at our stern's empty mooring ball up to rounding our mooring ball and back ... with balanced mix of girls/boys wins the 1st G-crew kayak competition was success!!! Kayaks tied (?) and exhausted they got into the floating mats mood for a while for a mid afternoon rest and later on to Pirates for a joyful time with the bartender ... Virgin Bushwhackers, Painkillers and sat on the swinging chair for a chat with G-Crew while listening to limi'n music ... Later and shortly after announcing our departure to "Solitaire" captured our kids in our trip's signature picture at the dinghy dock ... kids bellies over our dinghy's portside, heads in the water observing the "thousands of universities of tiny silver ones"...Cant' get enough!
Go to "Solitaire" to find out that one Kayak has parted (trip's blooper) ... having said that a few minutes later a fellow mate was suddenly at our stern delivering the Kayak towed by his dinghy ... All i saw from my point of view was his beamy hat followed by his "is this your kayak?" ... to one of the kids ... "Thanks!!!" was our tandem reply ... and he quickly disappeared ... into the sunset glare ...
<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/Clapping.gif" alt="" />
Our last night in paradise...BBQ and 'Limojito" drinks during our cockpit gathering, more talk, jokes and onto secure the night .... with unforgettable memories.
Day - 8 : Departure Blessed with a beautiful last day. Breakfast and on to prepare the trip last leg to Maya Cove. Always the last morning is a drag ... sleepy eyes followed by "were is my ... Nothing takes "fives minutes" prior to yacht delivery. People we need to be docked by 11am! ... Finally, after our longest vessel prep, off we go. While clearing The Bight entrance another vessel approached to our "5 o'clock"...noticed the helmsman making the "horn" hand signal to us ... "That is the family i made friends with while hiking here ... they are from Texas" said Jean .... vessel passed our stern, and both crew waved ... Once at Maya went to debriefing procedures, cleaned and "bathed" s/v "Solitaire"...and got another friendly departure by the Sunsail desk team while boarding our "trolley" taxi to Beef Airport...
A final remark from my older son while at Leverick Bay .... "Sailors are indeed friendlier people Dad..."...So if you happen to see any of our unmistakably "G"-crew member during your next bareboat charter ... do not be shy ... stop by and say Hi...!
END OF REPORT
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For This trip's pictures please got to : G-Crew's BVI-1, August 2004 --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
[*]1st Mate's (spouse Tere) favourite trip spot - Again The Bight, close to Pirates. Can't top that one!
[*]G-crew's favourite trip spots and activities - Leverick. Mosquito Is. Geocaching! The Indians....
[*]G-Crew's faourite trip cd - Listening to "Mozart for morning coffee...freshly brewed to perk up your day cd....cue for another adventure....
[*]Capt. "Darius" favourite trip spots - Leverick Bay, Anchorage at Lt. Jost.
[*]Quartermaster's Oliver (diver/rescuer) favourite sound - Me, on the foredeck disturbing his morning "beauty sleep"...
[*]G-crew trips favourite phrase - It's in the bilge!
[*]Hints from the crew: Let's try a Cat...!
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Ps. Love to have PM inquiries about San Juan...after all we live here and is our pleasure to always assist cruise turists and sailors on the way to/from our cars....
