No matter how many times I visit the BVI, every trip has different, marvelous, strange experiences, so my usual disclaimer is in order. Any mistakes (typos, wrong dates, etc.) are mine and mine only. And, no surprise, this trip report is a very, very long one (which is the reason I'm posting it in parts), so I am not liable for boredom, eyestrain or any urge to rant and rave while reading it. Some of you already know what this trip report does NOT contain – glowing recommendations of good restaurants, bars, information about boats and boating. What it does contain is an account of the people I meet and my crazy exploits while visiting my second home -- the BVI.

[color:"red"] [/color] JULY 28, 2004

My AA flight is scheduled for 6:10 p.m. Scheduled Supershuttle pickup for 1:30. Schlep all my bags downstairs to make sure I’m there when they arrive. It’s 1:55 p.m. no Supershuttle. Call them - driver is on his way. 2:20 no Supershuttle, call again and I’m told I’m his last pickup. O.K. now it’s 3:00 p.m. and I’m beyond angry <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cloud.gif" alt="" />. Once again I call and they try to reach the driver on his radio. Turns out, he turned his radio off. WHATT!!! Supershuttle tells me to take a cab and make sure to get a receipt to submit to them so I can get the money back!!! NOT A GOOD WAY TO BEGIN A LONG-AWAITED TRIP TO THE BVI. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cloud.gif" alt="" />

Call my daughter who works as a dispatcher for a car service located a few blocks from my home. She’s off today, but I’m beyond frantic now and don’t know what else to do at this point. She calls her job to find out who’s working and assures me the driver who’s coming to pick me up will get me to the airport in time. I’m pissed, skeptical and disbelieving because now it’s nearing what I call “crush hour,” and who knows what traffic we’ll run into along the way.

He gets me there in record time, I board and, next thing I know I hear the captain telling the crew to prepare for landing in SJU. Red eye flight so I spend the next hours, camped out at the gate, listening to easy reggae. Finally, the much-anticipated boarding call. Hey, I have a question? Is it just me, or does it always seem like they take forever to put us on the bus to the plane, and then when the bus gets to the plane, they take forever to board us?? <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/jester.gif" alt="" />And why is the bus always freezing??? <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/jester.gif" alt="" />


JULY 29th – My Burfday <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/newyears.gif" alt="" />

Arrive at Beef at 9am. On to Rhymer’s and straight to bed. Wake up several times having no idea what time it is. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/snore.gif" alt="" /> Finally it dawns on me. I don’t hear any traffic so.... that means -- I’m not at home. AND WHOA!!! Today’s my burfday. Finally get up and run to the new Bobby’s to pick up some goodies. Take a walk to Quito’s to (believe it or not) finally pick up some of his music. YES I KNOW!! What took me so long?? <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/duh.gif" alt="" /> (Towards the end of my travels, I would be glad I did).

Walk past Stanley’s and hear someone call my name. It’s Charmaine who wishes me a happy burfday (her burfday is in a few days). Her, Mal, Betty and a few others are relaxing at (can't remember where). We head off to Myett’s where Malcolm and Betty honor me with birthday drinks. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/toast.gif" alt="" /> (Thanks again ya’ll). After my first pina colada, the power goes out. On to Plan B so I’ll have a painkiller. Power comes back on, so another pina colada is in order. Bomba stops by so we get a chance to talk, and he gives me a limited edition Full Moon/Blue Moon shirt for Saturday night. Sitting at Myett’s relaxing, I nod off a little (snoring), and that could only mean one thing - IT’S TIME FOR HAPPY HOUR AT BIG BANANA <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/toast.gif" alt="" />

Decide since I’ve been drinking a wee much (does that make sense?) I should eat, so I order some of my favorite wings and, of course, I need something to wash the wings down, a few happy hour rum punches are in order. I hate the fact that they pour both drinks at the same time, cause it’s so hot, that by the time I finish one drink, the ice had melted in the other. This means I have to drink twice as fast. Dont’cha hate that? <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/jester.gif" alt="" /> Take some pics of the sunset, then it’s nap time. Time to get ready for Quito’s, but first things first. Found out Channel 50 has some of my favorite old cartoons - Hong Kong Fooey, Jabba Jaw, Quix Draw McGraw, ya know the good old cartoons where you don’t laugh, you LAUGH . Finally get myself together and head to Quito’s. Charmaine, Betty, Brenda, Sheila and a few others are already there. Quito is on break so we just relax and listen to CD’S playing. Fitz (my favorite bartender in the BVI and a good friend) buys me a burfday drink. Malcolm comes in later, and, before you know it, it’s past my bedtime. Time does fly when you’re having fun. Been an extra long day for me, and I’m definitely feeling my new age. Lights out!!
<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/snore.gif" alt="" />

JULY 30th

Don’t remember what I did today at all. Not a surprise since I was celebrating yesterday. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/jester.gif" alt="" />

JULY 31st

Uhhh! I hear noises. Fridge opening and closing, paper crinkling. I must be dreaming cause I know Sean would not wake me up early in the a.m. cuz he knows I’m not a morning person. I gingerly open one eye to see him tiptoeing around trying to be quiet (obviously not succeeding ) while he gets ready for work. I’m gonna be nice cause he says we’re going to the car show later on today, so I mumble a few choice words turn over and go back to sleep.

Have breakfast and walk down the beach toward Da Wedding, where I hail up Mr. Callwood. John, Jeff and Mousy are there just chillin, so we have a couple of drinks and shoot the breeze. Knowing I love snorkeling, we decide to go around the bend, as I call it, to the other side of CGB. Take the small boat, snorkel a bit, and I take some nice pics. On the way back, the lightbulb in my brain went out. I vaguely remember a TTOL’er posting about a mishap with water and a camera. Well, I guess I don’t have to tell you what happened!! While I’m busy looking around like a sightseer, the boat takes on a wave and the camera gets wet. I totally surprise myself by not screaming or crying, cuz (1) that’s not gonna help, what’s done is done and MOST IMPORTANTLY, it’s only my second day in the BVI, and I REFUSE TO LET THIS MISHAP RUIN MY VACATION
<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/Thumbsup.gif" alt="" />

Back from snorkeling, it was too late for the car show, but it is time to get ready for Malcolm’s pahtay. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/Groovin.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/Banana.gif" alt="" /> Grab some pastries from Bobby’s and I’m off. It’s dark, but I vaguely remember where Malcolm’s house is from last years TTOL bash. Problem is, I don’t hear any music, no laughing, no talking, nada. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/Yikes.gif" alt="" /> Now I’m wondering if I really do remember. Sooo.. I walk back to Bomba’s and have him draw me a crude map where I can’t miss Mal’s house. Back up the road, and voila!! I find the party. One little problem: IT’S THE WRONG PARTY. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/jester.gif" alt="" /> Mal’s neighbor tells me Mal’s house is just up the hill. Sooo... I go up the hill, linger outside houses, (hoping all the while that Mal’s neighbors don’t have attack dogs or call the po-po). <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/busted.gif" alt="" /> Not a party sound to be heard. Light bulb comes on again, and I consider the fact that I got the time wrong, or there was a change in the location or.. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/duh.gif" alt="" /> But, hey I figure if he was nice enuf to invite me, I should make every effort to get there. So... I walk back to Bomba’s and have a friend of mine who knows where Mal’s house walk me back, and sure enuf, I was at the right house the first time. So Mal, if you read this, I’m sorry I missed your pahtay <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cry.gif" alt="" /> But, look on the bright side, when you have another TTOL bash, I won’t have any problem finding your house. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/jester.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/jester.gif" alt="" />

Finally back to Bomba’s for the third (AND LAST) time. Sit and shoot the breeze with Bomba, do some dancing and drinking, drinking and dancing, ya get the drift. Ran into Mare and Ada who had just flown in and had also been by Malcolm’s. Later on, I did run into Charmaine, Betty and Brenda. Finally back to Rhymer’s around 3am.


AUGUST 1st

Slept until (well let’s just say an outrageous hour) Drive by Bomba’s. Totally quiet, so we head to the village where it’s jammin. P’our passion is performing, so I do a little dancing. with some friends from Jost, who after they “hello” ask when I’m coming over cuz they know if I’m in the BVI, I must be going to Jost at some point Finally, it’s 4am. Time for bed, not doing jouvert this year as I’m beyond tired. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/snore.gif" alt="" />

AUGUST 2nd

Slept in, then pack for Jost. Sean is painting his truck, so I roll into town with him. Wow! I hear music, must be the parade. I grab my camera and head for the road. Cool, I get a chance to take some pic of the people and floats. Get turned around, walking back to the truck and I wind up on the street where the small grocery store is that carries the Brow soda. Look up front and don’t see my favorite flavor, so I ask the owner if he has any more in the back. I tell him I know he doesn’t remember but I had been in to buy in his store another time. He smiles and says “no, I’m sorry I don’t remember.” I tell him I only like lime, banana and pineapple brow and banana is my favorite. He laughs and says “now I remember you, you’re the lady that loves banana Brow.” We both laugh, I grab some brow, and after getting directions back to the truck from him, we say our goodbyes until next time. Take the truck back, jump in the jeep and settle in for the night.

AUGUST 3rd

Wake up about 9 am. I’m so excited. I’m going to my horse race today. Already got my horse race gear together (I hear it’s a fashion statement day and the woman dress to the nines). Sean picks me up around 1:00 p.m.and driving down the mountain, he says he can see it’s already very crowded so he hopes the parking lot is not full. It’s not, he pays and grabs a parking spot.

I’m wondering how we’re gonna see the race from so far away, but he tells me that since we’re both tall, we can just open the jeep top and stand on the seats. COOL!! After a while, I walk to soak up my first time at the races. Wow!! So many people, so much food. I run into some people from St. Thomas includingKiller Miller one of the taxi drivers I’ve known for many, many years.

Grab some food, head back to the jeep to watch the races. Everyone’s been talking about the horse Axspectations who they say has been traveling to the other islands and beating all the horses. Finally, it’s time for his race, which he runs without much competition. We decide to split to try to miss some of the traffic. Head for East End Village where I see some friends and we spend our time drinking and dancing. I love playing dominoes, so I watch a domino tournament for
a while, then decide it’s time to eat.

Stop at this booth where they’re serving food at the back. I order a chicken leg and ask the lady what staples they sell, since they had about eight pans of staples. She told me two (I don’t eat either one), and when I asked what else they had, she threw the chicken leg back in the bowl and walked away. Now I’m standing there with my mouth open since I’m not used to BVIslanders being rude. One of the other ladies asked me if she could help me, and I explained that I would like a chicken leg, but would like to know what they had to go with the chicken. She went through the staples and fixed my plate.

The woman who owned the booth asked me if everything was o.k. and I told her what had happened with the first lady and how rude she was while I also telling her that the second lady that took care of me was so patient and it was a pleasure to do business with her. I explained that even though mine was only one sale, I would have taken my business elsewhere because the first lady was so rude. She told me she understood and apologized.

We take a nap in the jeep and decide to drive to the East End/Long Look police station to watch jouvert. I heard Daddy Friday and Jam Band was the “band for the road.” While driving, one of the youth asked for a ride to Beef, but we had so much stuff in the jeep, we didn’t have room. Sean looked at me puzzled and wondered aloud why the youth asked for a ride to Beef as he supposes everybody would be headed to East End. In a few minutes, we had the answer. People turned around and headed to Beef Island. Soo... we follow them, but decide not to cross the bridge going to Beef as we probably would have nightmares trying to get back across. We sat and waited AND waited AND waited. Asking around, people said the organizers were concerned about the lack of lighting along the parade route, so the paraders were going to come back across the bridge to start. Finally the lead police car came across with the truck following. We took a shortcut (across the dirt road and up the road) to try, once again, grab a spot where we’d be able to see the parade. Don’t know if jouvert started at the bridge cause we got a spot and waited AND waited AND waited. It’s 4:30, then 5:30. The sun is up but still no parade. Finally, it’s warm, we’re tired and thinking of giving up, when we hear music. Look down the road, and oh my gosh. Look at mas!! People and more people coming up the road, looks like it’s raining over the crowd. I take a few pics and we’re history.

Want to do some snorkeling so we head to Brewer’s Bay where the beautiful fish are out in full force. Take some pics, then see this one fish I haven’t seen before, and I decide I must have a pic of it. Of course, the fish does not cooperate, and runs me a merry dance, ducking under a rock that I can’t see (well, I’m not gonna try to see under). So I wait. And, as usual. I hear my boyfriend’s voice saying: “don’t go close to rocks that you can’t see into or under.” And as I usually do, I tell him to shut up (uh not him, his voice), I heard you the first time. After waiting for the fish to come out of the rock, what do I see?? A long tail sticking out of the rock followed by -- an eel. ALRIGHTY THEN!! I’m outta here. Back to CGB. Bad move. Visibility is absolutely horrible on both sides of the bay. Starts to rain so I head back to Rhymer’s. Take a nap, then head to Bomba’s where I run into Mare, Ada and a few others. Hang out for a while, then head for East End village, but they’re done for the night. Driving around looking for my favorite lady - The Chicken Lady. Can’t find her anywhere. Maybe she’s off island. Wantin some chicken, road dawg takes me to another chicken truck run by a guy called Neat-O [sic]. Lot of people in line (all men), so I patiently wait my turn. Uh, wait a minute, why are some of the men jumping the line? Wassup with that? Man!! One of my pet peeves, is people who don’t like to wait on line, so they feel they can just jump in front of you and it’s supposed to be alright. NOT!!!

Now, I know I’m a visitor, and, as such, I always try to be courteous, but now I’m pissed. “I’m just as tired as everybody else, and if I can wait my turn, so can ya’ll,” I say. Uuugly looks and it looks like my little outburst falls on deaf ears, cause a man at the BACK of the line calls out his order!!! I say a couple of unmentionable words while the smoke comes out of my ears. The man at the back of the line who called up his order starts to move so I strategically place myself in front of him, and decide if you can’t beat em, join em. So I call out my order, and lo and behold, Neat-O looks up, and smiles when I repeat my orders and politely informs him he’s out of ketchup.

When I was first introduced to Sean by a mutual friend while visiting the BVI years ago, whenever I got something to eat, I would always ask him what he wanted and Sean would always said “Shari, I’m not hungry really, I’ll just nibble on yours.” He would then proceed to eat most of my food. Well, I’ve learned my lesson, so now even though I still ask him, and even though he still smiles and says the same thing, I ignore him and always buy him his own. I come back to the jeep with the food, and he always says “Shari, I told you I’m not hungry.” Of course, he does this while he’s tearing open the bag to see what’s in it. LOL. Jump back in the jeep, back on the road to CGB, we both start to get sleepy, seems like it takes forever to walk up the stairs to the room (of course, we really haven’t had much sleep since Monday night). Grab some newspaper, spread out on the bed (I smile when I think of my mom telling me when I was younger, not to eat on the bed). Well, guess what Mom?? I ate on the bed. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/Devil.gif" alt="" /> Ate the chicken on the bed with our eyes half closed. Hungry, but so sleepy, eating fast, so we can finally fall out. Finish, wash up and it’s la la land for us. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/snore.gif" alt="" />

TO BE CONTINUED)