This was our 6th trip to St. Martin since 1996, the year after Hurricane Luis roared through the island. Less than a week later, hurricane Marilyn followed, and Lennie a year or two later. The entire island was really battered-looking in 1996, with birds being almost non-existent that year (not mosquitoes and no-see-ums, though). It has been marvelous watching the island recover to the lush spring-time beauty we enjoyed this year with its abundance of spring-blooming flowers and bird-song everywhere. We were fortunate to spend three full weeks on the island, which we split about half-n-half between accommodations on the French and Dutch sides.

Accommodations: We spent our first two nights at the Pasanaggrahan Hotel on Front Street in Phillipsburg until we could get into our time-share at the Flamingo. The hotel dates to the Dutch Colonial period and is charming with vintage furniture and original art work in the rooms. Our room opened right on to Great Bay Beach. This was handy for shopping in Philipsburg and we enjoyed walking the beach promenade and watching the cruise ships and other marine activity in the harbor. Then on to the Flamingo (next to the Pelican) near Simpson Bay. We were not aware until this year that the Flamingo has buildings that are separate from, and above, the beach-side condos. This year we got the separate building. The condo was very nice and spacious with all the amenities including a washer/dryer in the unit. We did not feel a part of the resort, however, and spent almost no time there, preferring the beaches on the French side, especially Orient Beach. The last twelve days of our visit were spent in a mini-suite at Club O on Orient Beach. We love Club O—this was our second time staying there. It is quiet and peaceful, the resort provides daily maid service, and everything is very clean and well-kept. Also, the staff is unfailingly friendly and helpful. This year Club O instituted a nearby off-campus parking policy (of course you can drive to your cottage to load and unload luggage, groceries, and such), which we felt was a real improvement. The grounds at Club O are park-like and beautiful and the absence of cars coming and going added to the serenity of the location. And best of all the part of Orient Beach that we like best is just down the palm-tree-lined path from our cottage.

Highlights:
• Brisk early-morning walks au-natureal every morning on the beach with Dave and Sue and watching the antics of the beach dogs frolicking in the sand and surf,
• Orient beach itself. Over the years we have visited nearly every beach on the island and all have their own character and charm, but to us Orient, is just perfect—one of the few beaches on the island with hard-packed sand where you can walk barefoot without sinking up to your ankles in sand. Also, the water is usually very calm on the Club O end of the beach. My husband and I are not good swimmers but this year we spent a great deal of time in the water and I actually worked my way up to swimming 0.5 mi., without stopping—something I thought I could never do.
• Friends on Orient Beach. It was great meeting-up with Contessa and Lee Lee again (we first met them about 1998), and in having a part of sharing in Lee Lee’s husband, Tom’s (who recently passed away) celebration of his life—he will be greatly missed by many. We had great fun with Dave and Sue and enjoyed meals together and activities at Papagayo’s—Karaoke night was especially fun—with some really exceptional talent among the guests. Also, we enjoyed meeting Gary and JoAnn for the first time (a really lovely couple)—like us, they have been coming here for years, but this was the first time our paths had crossed, and also meeting “Doc” Jane who was with Contessa and Lee Lee. Don and Lorrie, Ken and Stacy, and Bev and Dick also arrived during our stay at Club O. Then we met Toby and his gang—Toby organized the Cinco de-Rafto event (hilarious)—more about that later.
• Tiko Tiko Cruise. Lyle and I, Dave and Sue, Don and Lorrie, Ken and Stacy, and Bev and Dick sailed around SXM on a picture-perfect day (Don, I loved your video of Ken sliding onto the Tiko Tiko’s trampoline!). What a terrific group, all smart, funny, and fun-loving people, and some filled with fiendish wit (Don and Ken) and sass (Lorrie). What a fun day. Phillipe and his new first-mate, Fredericka, were wonderful hosts and no one ran out of beer or rum punch,
• Lunch at the Hidden Forest Café, Loterie (Lottery) Farm on the way to Pic Paradis. By accident I met famed chef Julia Purkis (featured in Destination magazine) while eating lunch there. The restaurant is very easy to get to at the base of Pic Paradis with plenty of parking. Although inland, there was a wonderful breeze that flowed from the sea through the cut in the mountain—a beautiful place.
• Sinking of the Raft at the Club O end of Orient Beach—Cinco-de-Rafto in honor of Cinco de Mayo. Evidently Toby first organized this super-charged, fun event (if I’m wrong about that I know that I will surely hear about it). Because so many of the past participants were leaving before May 5th, the event was held earlier—the 3rd or 4th, I think—funny how you lose track of time on St. Martin. Anyway, the objective, in honor of Cinco de Mayo, is for as many swimmers as can be to swim to a raft, climb-on, and sit down until the raft sinks. Toby then pushes a floatie filled with a full case of beer to the raft and all celebrate! This year more than 30 people wedged themselves onto the 8’ ft. x 8’ ft. raft (all this was with the approval of beach security) until as my husband told me they were sitting in water up to their chests. Sue and I watched from the beach and laughed hysterically as this flotilla of swimmers descended on the unsuspecting sun-bathers on the raft; they gamely joined in on the fun. Lee Lee walked by as this was taking place and commented, “I see the salmon are spawning”! What a great analogy. It could only happen on St. Martin!
• Local fish Markets: Salmon reminded me of my experiences at the local fish markets at Simpson Bay and d’Orleans. Local fishermen arrive at the fish market next to Ric’s American Restaurant in Simpson Bay every day at approximately 9:00 a.m. I was the only tourist there on the day I bought my fish. The Captain and his crew dump fish of every size and description into spotlessly clean tubs where the fish are still alive and thrashing about. I had my fish cleaned at the market (the head was left on). The method of scaling the fish was interesting: 3 or 4 bottlecaps were nailed to a piece of heavy wood lath (the make-shift scraper), and in about 10 seconds flat the fish was scaled. I wrapped the fish in tin foil with fresh garlic and herbs and barbecued it—just delicious, although I don’t know what kind of fish it was. I also bought fresh Mahi Mahi from the fish vendor under the tree at d’Orleans—the market was not as clean as the Simpson Bay Market but the fish was just as good. I also grilled the Mahi Mahi and fresh plantains bought at the same outdoor market on a small grill I bought for $5.00 at the Ace Hardware in Philipsburg.
We are looking forward to spring 2008 in SXM. Hopefully, most of the great folks mentioned in this report will be there again about the same time next year, also. For newcomers to SXM, if you come once, you will likely be on your way to regular visits henceforth.

Robogirl. <img src="http://www.traveltalkonline.com/forums/images/graemlins/Joy.gif" alt="" />