A marvelous trip, bareboat sail SVG Jan 22-Feb1, 2004
Many thanks to Rob of Usual-Suspects-Sailing. Great advice.

The Crew: 4 couples, work collegues from Boston.
We used The Moorings for our charter and to arrange air/land transfers. This worked very well.

Day 1 (Thur)
Getting there: Flew with AA from Boston to St Lucia. Did the American EAgle connection thing in San Juan. Flights were on time and uneventful. A word of caution about San Juan: The American Eagle operation is all out of 1 gate where you take a bus to the plane. They board 20 mins or so prior. This makes for tight connecting depending on inbound flight. Fortunately we were 15 min early, so had time to grab a bite to eat prior to boarding.
Arrival in St Lucia: the usual immigration/customs thing on small islands. 2 agents, took 15 min. Were transported of the the Rainbow Hotel on Rodney Bay and got there around 4pm, just in time to unwind with drinks by the pool prior to dinner.
The Rainbow Hotel was comfortable but not fancy and across the road from the beach. It was inexpensive (less than $100 a night). We had dinner at The Eagles Inn which is on the waterway connecting the harbor/marina to the Caribbean Sea. Lots of boat activity. Dinner was good not great but a good "Transition" to the Caribbean.
Crashed after dinner (had gotten up at 4 am to make the 7am flight to SJU).

Day 2: Tranfered to Moorings base in Marigot Bay for chart briefing, boat briefing and loading up stowing away. Went smoothly and we were aboard and could have left around noon. However (thanks to a suggestion of Rob's) we chose to leave the boat in the marina and go on a land tour of St Lucia. None of us had seen the landside before. We hired a taxi from Marigot bay and touredthe Southern end of St Lucia, Soufriere, the volcano (you drive into it an tour on foot, steamy sulfer springs), waterfalls, rain forests and to the Pitons. It was beautiful and a fun trip cost about $30 each for 4 hrs. Returned to the Moorings base and had drinks and dinner at JJ's Paradise. Good food and fun place right on the bay. You take a water taxi to get there. Slept aboard the boat in the Marina. Not too noisy (tree frogs).
The boat was Moorings 4500 catamarin. 4 cabins, 4 heads, very comfortable and roomy. We had been on the same boat 4 previous times so new it well. This one was "slower" than others we had sailed. But handled well and was comfortabe, i.e. little rocking in anchorages.
Again and early turn in. (there is a pattern developing of early to bed early to rise).

Day 3: We left Moorings base and sailed to the Pitons. About a 2 hr sail. Beautiful trip and and good intro to the trip.
We picked up a mooring between the Pitons just off the Jalousie Hilton Resort. Went ashore had lunch on the beach at the resort and spent the afternoon on the beach.
Dinner that night was a "special occasion" (celebrating my birthday) at Dasheen (restaurant at Ladera resort). Went up for sunset, drinks and dinner. Dasheen as half way up at about 1000 feet so great views. The trip their in the cab took 20 min and went thru the volcano. The road between Soufiere and the volcano is undergoing roadworks and is horrible. The govt is under pressure to finish since this is a major tourist attraction and the land access to Ladera and Jalousie Hilton. They were working at night!!!!
Dinner at Dasheen was outstanding, real "dining". Great food, presentation, service and even live music (it was Sat Night).
No too expensive ($300 for 8 people).

Boat Boys: a comment. See www.usual-suspects-sailing.com for a great tretise on boat boys. These are locals in motor boats who try to "assist" you in any way they can. Anchoring/mooring/sell tshirts, ice, food etc. They are present throughout the Grenadines (except Mustique). We used them whenever possible. They only require a small tip (in EC$ 5-10 wich is $2-5). As Rob says in his website, they can really add to enjoyment. However thay can be annoying and that is why we "bypassed" St Vincent and went all the way from the Pitons to Admiralty Bay in Bequia.
We later learned that people on another Moorings charter had been robbed in the Pitons either the same night we were there or the night before. Their boat was broken into by a front hatch (not secured) and money, jewelry, cameras, credit cards, etc was stolen (around $1500 worth). Security is an issue in these islands and it is good form to lock doors, hatches, dinghys, etc when unattended. We did this and never had any problem.

Day 4: Left at first light since we wanted to go all the way to Bequia. 65 nautical miles, took 8 hrs. Winds weren't great so we motor sailed part way to make 5-6 knots. Got the Admiralty Bay about 2.30pm. We used African Pride to help us moor and arrange land stuf. They were great and I would highly recommend them (they are listed in "the Bible" , Doyle's guide to Windward Islands). Went ashore to "poke around", shop, and do the customs thing. (you have to clear into St Vincent and the Grenadines at your first stop).
Bequia is a fun place and as the Moorings briefer had said, "your vacation does not start until you get to Bequia". Nice people. fun, laid back port, good shopping pretty beaches.
Had trouble with our dinghy engine Merc 5hp. The cord broke. So we asked at the dinghy landing for help. Well we should have known better but thought in these islands what can be more basic than dinghy engine repair. Well when we returnedthe engine was "in parts". So we arranged for a real repair the next day, which was prompt and easy.
We went to dinner at Macs Pizza. Why do you ask would you go to a Pizza joint in the tropics? (Rob had recommended). Because it simply is THE BEST. Fantastic pizza. Try the Lobster pizza. Simpy amazing, It is a must if you stop on Bequia.

Day 5. We decided to spend the day on Bequia exploring and "recovering" from the long sail the day before. So we toured the island (arranged by African Pride.) Very nice tour, saw all the scenery etc. About a 4 hr tour. More shopping. The "hot t-shirt" on the islands has "Sail Fast" on one side and "Live Slow" on the other and the island name.
Had dinner at Gingerbread House, again a Rob suggestion. It was excellent. Great sunset views. Most of our dinners were early to combine happy hour, sunset, and dinner. (sunset about 6pm).

Day 6: We did a quick trip, motor sailing to Mustique. Went by "Moon Hole" on the way out of Bequia. This is a unique resort built entirely out of stone and spartanly furnished. Have seen few people there.
Moored in Mustique. This was a bit of a chore since there were no boat boys (the one time we could have used them) and the mooring balls had no leader mooring line. You had to hook the ball and attach a line. We did it the easy way by dinking the ball and running the lines thru. Others we say did this by approaching the ball with the stern of the boat and gently attaching. Anyway in light swells it wasn't hard (our dinghy had been repaired by now--incidentally our dinghy had a leak requiring constant bailing).
We went ashore after lunch and took an island tour and wound up on Macaroni beach to spend the afternoon. This is an idyllic beautiful beach that often makes "top 10" lists.
Mustique is the Island of the Rich and Famous and is neatly manicured and immaculate. Beautiful and clean. A little atypical for the Caribbean.
Had drinks and sunset at Basils Bar and dinner at Firefly. Incredible contrast. Basils is "down and dirty" and Firefly is way upscale. It was the only place we fealt "underdressed". Lots of chick locals. Its the "happening" bar. Dinner was excuiste and very expense ($480 for 8 of us).

Day 7 and 8. We had intended to go to Tobago Cays stopping in Canouan on the way. The Moorings has a base here and you can stop for free water and ice. The problem is there is no dock to tie up to. You moor and they hand you a hose. The ground swells were too high to do this so we went on to the Tobago Cays got there for lunch. Anchored off Baradel Island.
The Tobago Cays is the main reason to go to the Grenadines, in my opinion. It is agroup of small islands, uninhabited, a national park, surrounded by a reef that separates you from Africa. Has the best snorkling/diving I have encountered. We went for our first snorkle on the reef and it lived up to expectations.
This is "boat boy central" as Rob says and they are both corlorful, friendly, and helpful. As Rob suggested, we used many of them (this is their lifelyhood). We bought t-shirts, some art work. We "contracted" with one (Tafa (or Tuffer) aka Desparado) to do a beach Lobster dinner the next day. They need a days preparation to get things together. The will do fish, lobster, chicken, grilled on the beach. They also prepare in foil, a steamed mixture of local veggies. It was marvelous. cost $30 each. They prepare when you want. You bring utensils, drinks, plates. There are picnic tables and benches there. THere were several other groups doing the same thing. The boat boys cooperated well in the grilling/preparation. They were true restaurantiers, only barefoot and in t-shirts.
It was marvelous. A highlight of the trip.
Spent two nights here and the BBQ was the second night. Snorkled and "poked" around the second day.
It was "crowded" about 40 boats were there.

Day 9. Since we hadn't gotten water on the way in, we motored over to Canouan ( 1 hr) to get water and ice then motored over to Salt Whistle Bay on Mayreau. (short distances and down wind so no sailing). What an idyllic gorgeous beach. Anchored and spent time on the beach. Beautiful palm tree lined gentle beach. also makes "top 10" lists. Had dinner at Salt Whistle Bay Club. You have to "pre order" your dinner. It was wonderful. You sit is stone seats under a palapa with a stone circular table. Had drinks an dinner. We were starting to get melancholy since we only had one more day.

Day 10. We had intended to go back to Canouan and end the charter there but stay on the boat the last night. You moor some distance from the dock and dinghy over. We got in noontime had lunch and started packing to get bags off boat. It turned out the ground swells were horrific and it was dangerous to land a dingy. THe Moorings staff were wonderful and off loaded us with their launch, a more stable boat. We did boat check out and got off the boat. We enquired about lodgeing ashore at the Tamarind Beach Club but they were "full" and unhelpful. The Moorings staff recommended a wonderful small Inn (Ocean View Inn 784-482-0477) nearby and the wonderful owner took us in. Rooms were clean, comfortable and inexpensive ($115 per nignt). Lucinda Pascal is the manager. We can't recommend it enough. We spent the last night here.
Had our "last supper" at Tamarind Beach Club. Very good pizza.

Day 11: Plane left at 7.50am, we had to be at airport at 6.30am. Lucinda was wonderful and got up and made us coffee and saw us off.
Trip home was uneventful. SJU was easy to negotiate. 30 min from landing to the departure gate. Had time to get lunch. Since this was a Boston bound flight on SuperBowl Sunday the plane was loaded with Patriots fans in Patriot gear. We were excited because we would be home by gametime. We got home at 4pm. and loved the game.

Overall comments: A memorable, wonderful trip. Good sailing. Friendly people. great beaches and snorkling.
Security concerns: if you are careful should be no problem.
Our next trip, we will go into and out of Canouan. The Moorings base there is good and the staff are wonderful. Right now air access to Canouan is limited but should get busy as the Carenage Bay resort get busier and other development expands. I would recommend spending the first and last nights ashore. You have to the first because the plane does not get there til 6pm. Getting off the boat via dinghy in travel clothes with carryon luggage in the dark, even in calm seas would be difficult. If the Moorings builds a marina, this would change.
Thanks to posters on this and other boards and especially Rob of Usual-suspects-sailing for help in making this a memorable vacation.