TravelTalkOnline Forums Travel and Vacation Forums British Virgin Islands NOBLE SHADOW 5

BVI - July 26-August 5, 2025


I slept so soundly that when I woke, I had to process exactly where I was LOL! Once I realized I was on the boat at Saba Rock….I quietly went up top with the help of the warm glow of nautical twilight. I know I say this a lot, but I do really enjoy this peaceful time of the morning. Curiously I have been the only one on many trips that does this and I am respectful of the other crews need to sleep in. I always just grab a water and sit quietly at the helm. My wife is usually not far behind and our daughter seems to be showing signs of this need to experience the promise of a new day in all its glory, I like this.







With a refreshing cool breeze filling our souls with sea air and a cup warming our palms we picked our perch to enjoy the colorful show.








Other than the scorching walk around the Baths we had spent a long time on the boat, fyi the bottom of our feet recovered nicely. After a few chores we decided to have breakfast at Saba. With one pull the outboard started like there was never a problem!






It was a short choppy ride to the dock’s ladder, avoided getting too wet from the occasional bow splash. My hats off to the designers and craftsmen that rebuilt this special place after the devastating storms. But it was the vision of Bert Kilbride and the late Petr Kellner that made this an iconic sailors must visit destination. We heard several heartwarming stories about Mr. Kellner, he was so generous after the storms. He provided Virgin Gorda with an enormous amount of supplies and rebuilt homes for many families, literally from the ground up. Unfortunately, he was killed in a helicopter crash in Alaska’s back country shortly after the rebuilding in 2021. He was born just one year after me and it’s stories like his that reminds me of a bumper sticker I often see “One Life Live It”.







There were only a couple groups in the restaurant around 0900. The service and food were exceptional. My wife and daughter would say the Lobster Benedict wins the prize, but the traditional egg breakfast and refreshing fruit plate get honorable mentions!










The Rock is different now, but in a positive way in my opinion. Same footprint of course, but the timber structure and details are beautiful. The thousands of feet of decking is gorgeous, not sure of the wood species but it looks similar to Ipe. The outdoor aquarium is still there and teaming with interesting local sea life. The shop is very nice and purchases were made, end of season discounts! An impressive change is the upstairs bar area, quite large.










My favorite part of the resort is always kicking off the flip flops and walking barefoot in the cool grass area! Some resorts might make an area like this “guests only”, It would make me happy if it always remains accessible! Walk down to the beach with ample seating niches and hammocks is beautiful, the landscaping is lush and picture perfect.










We walked off the substantial breakfast and returned to the boat to change into swimsuits. We then headed through the field and across the channel to the Bitter End Yacht Club. Everything I said about the Saba designers/craftsmen is the same here, beautiful! I’m not a fan of big changes for sake of change, but under the circumstances I feel that everything I saw was so well done and a positive change. Things are different, but much of the property brings back wonderful memories and felt familiar. We did find signs on the beach leading towards Saba that read “guests only’ we respected that. The trail to Biras is apparently permanently closed. The provisioning store is amazing, offered everything we would need and even had fresh baked goods. Let the pics speak for themselves….



















The beach area in front of the boat bar is really nice, loungers, tables, cornhole, cold drinks just a couple sandy steps away! It’s one marina area I don’t mind soaking in. The boat bar is a popular spot of course, “I love this bar, it’s my kinda place”! It was there we decided not to relocate the boat somewhere, the spot was perfect! They’ve added a large brick oven pizza joint, perfect! We had lunch at the bar consisting of pizzas, big salad and fish tacos, great service and the food was tasty!















We were back on the boat around 1600, showered and then back to Saba for the tarpon feeding and happy hour. Upstairs offered buckets of 5 Caribs for $12….yes please! After watching the feeding from the upper deck and a couple buckets later we took a stroll and then back to the boat for dinner.







It was an amazingly long and fun filled day, glad we stayed put. To be continued, Cheers!

We used to love doing lunch at the Bitter End many years ago. They had what they called the Rum Grog Lunch. It was a big buffet and included their then famous Rum Grog. It was serve yourself for unlimited food and rum grog. Needless to say, after lunch everyone was feeling a little groggy!

We are headed back to VG for two weeks in January and STJ this fall. Your reports are really getting me in the mood.

I either missed the tank at Saba two years ago or it wasn’t open yet. Our son LOVED the former tank when he was young.

The tank is looking really good, lots of lobsters, reef fish and there was even a small shark of some kind, it hides in the rocks so I think what I saw was a juvenile nurse? We have never been in January, it must be an amazing month to be there!

BEERMAN,
Fantastic report as always! Thanks for such great insight

Hey Beerman,

Heading back down to BVI after a couple year hiatus and started cruising thru the forums for recent trip reports.
I was happy I found this one from back in August. Lots of good info. Thought I would pop it back to the top.

I'll be heading down in May on the same UA flight from IAD to STT eta 12:20 pm.
We have never been able to fit into the carry-on only thing, so will be hanging around the carousel waiting for our checked bags.

We are considering one of the private boat taxi services vs the "Fast Ferry" etc, to speed things up.
Wondering if you had given this option any thought?

We did look into Dolphin, IslandTime and Chillout. With just the 4 of us we decided to just take it easy and go with the normal flow, had time for a nice lunch at the Pump Room. We would consider it if we had 6-8 of us.

I can't remember the exact cost comparisons, but they were all about the same. Don't quote me but.....I think the private taxi can take you to your marina? If so, that's a big plus!

I used Chill Out last summer. It was roughly $1000 each way for five of us and they do bring you right to your boat. They stop at West End first to check you in while you just hang out on the boat, then they drop you off wherever you need to go next.

Yep, I am seeing all are about the same $$. Checked Chillout, Dolphin, and Island Time .
About $120 p/p for the boat + $60 p/p customs + $25 p/p taxi to RedHook. $205 + Tip - One way ( This was based on 6 persons minimum)
A little more the 2X the cost of the ferry, but 1/2 the time? Drop off at marina dock would be nice!
Might have to give it a try.

Thanks gentlemen.

I now return control of this thread to Beerman. ( Maybe SHADOW 6 coming soon? )

I second the motion for Shadow 6
Very much enjoyed the trip reports and they help get the wheels turning to return!🏝⛵️

We have been spending a lot of time in the snow at our WV cabin, when i return home I'll work on part 6. It's this time of year when my mind wanders to warmer places and travel planning starts! This has been a really really cold winter! Our friends recently asked to be included on our next charter, so hopefully we'll be returning to TMM this summer!