Sorry if long. Thanks
Grenada 2009 Isle of Spice:
American Airlines: another rough and tumble trip down and back on AA, every single time we landed we sat on the tarmac waiting for a spot to pull in, this made for running through most airports. DSM-DFW, DFW-MIA, MIA-GND. Left DSM at 6am, arrived in GND an hour and half late at 10:30pm. Coming back GND-MIA, MIA-ORD, ORD-DSM. Due to delays in MIA and ORD we missed our ORD-DSM flight on Saturday June 20th by 1 minute, watched our plane drive away, needless to say we spent the night in Chicago on AA’s dime, this seems to be a far too common experience for us. I could go on and on about my thoughts of AA but will not.
Grenada Grand Resort: the Grand was found on Skyauction which I highly recommend. Hotel was a sprawling complex on about 20 acres I believe, long covered corridors, 2 beautiful pools, right on Grand Anse beach. Room was clean and comfortable, good AC. I would say the Grand is maybe a 3 star hotel; we did not have any complaints to speak of. Anyone that knows of Ku on Anguilla, very similar product and 3 times the size. Staff was friendly, grounds beautiful and well kept, food was average but not too pricey. Bar drinks were pricey so we stocked our fridge with Carib, Absolut, and Ting.
Day One: Rain. Hotel manager said they haven’t seen rain like this in months and needed it badly, ironic because had been raining like this in Iowa all spring. Breakfast then grabbed a cab to St Georges to sight-see, had read about the local Saturday market. This was the start of something new to us visiting various islands, anywhere tourists are dropped off or you might park, there will be several locals ready to befriend you and be your “guide”. Of course they want money in return for their services. When dropped off in St Georges there was our unofficial “guide”, we obliged and allowed him to walk us up and down the cobblestone streets, in and out of market stalls. We purchased some spices and a handmade doll for our daughter, toured the fish market where local fisherman drop off their morning catch, found a cool batik clothing store, walked through the 18th century tunnel built by the French to connect old and new St Georges. Unique thing about Grenada is much of the 17th and 18th century architecture is still standing, regardless of Ivan’s rath in 2004. Started to rain again so said goodbye to our “guide” and tucked into Oceanside Grill. From here had a great view of the harbor, mulit-colored houses built up into the steep hillsides. By far the most beautiful harbor I have ever seen. Good lunch of fish sandwiches and Calalloo soup (Calalloo is a local root veggie, they use the green stems for this wonderful soup, consistency of pea soup). Back to the Grand about 1pm as the sun came out. Headed out to Grand Anse beach, beautiful, about 2 miles long I would say and the Grand was smack dab in the middle of it. Not quite as nice as Shoal Bay East on Anguilla but close. Similar in texture/color as Cinnamon Bay on St John. Dave snorkeled which not very good as there is no structure close to shore, did see several large starfish and a small spotted eel. Ended the afternoon at the Grand’s fantasy pool which is very nice, waterfalls, nooks and crannies, in the middle a swim up bar. Dinner was at Coconut Beach restaurant, 5 minute walk down Grand Anse, French Creole menu, VERY good, we went back 2 more times during our visit.
Day Two: Heard much of the island closes on Sunday so breakfast at the hotel, on Grand Anse by 10am, stayed there until 3:30pm then headed to the pool again for Selma-time (Selma is a bartender at Tropical Sunsets on Anguilla who we love, when it is time for a drink at home or on vacation someone shouts out “Selma-time!”). Absolut and Tings. Fish tacos at the hotel, very good. Watched the sunset at the Sunset Bar.
Day Three: Dave up and already stir-crazy, we usually rent a car for our entire trip so I was ready to see the island the best way I know how, driving on the left. Rented a Suzuki from place at the hotel, grabbed a map and up into the mountains we went. Reminiscent of driving on St John, lots of steep hairpins and the higher up you went, the lusher and cooler the temp became. Stopped at Annadale waterfall, naturally there were about 6 locals there wanting your attention to be their guide, we decided on a nice lady with a Grenada Tourism badge assuming she would know her stuff, and she did. She showed us cocoa trees, nutmeg, banana, pepper plants, tons of tropical flowers, various fruit trees have never heard of. Kept heading north, landed at Grand Etang Lake, parked and there was a young guy wanting to help us, they wanted like $15 to walk up a hill and look down at the lake, we opted out of that. This is where we saw the Mona Monkeys, we bought a bunch of fresh bananas and fed the monkeys and took photos. By far the best bananas we have ever had. Views up here were amazing, makes St John look like a little kid. Headed north again in search of River Antoine Rum Factory. After a few wrong turns stumbled across Belmont Estate where they harvest cocoa and nutmeg, the beans were laid out in huge trays to dry in the sun. We had lunch here and appears a new building as from the outside just a concrete building, up top was the restaurant which was beautifully done in rich wood, not what we were expecting. They do a buffet here, started out with pumpkin soup, then various meat dishes that were very good. Finished off with sour-sop apple ice cream, also very good. This is a must-stop place when touring the island IMO. Found our way to River Antoine, this is an old-school rum factory where everything done by hand, huge water wheel crushes the sugar cane. Ended with a taste, about knocked me over, it’s twice the potency as normal rums. The factory is surrounded by sugar cane fields; this was one of those true Caribbean moments I search for. Started back down the eastside of the island about the time schools were getting out. Fun to go through each parish and see the different colored school uniforms the kids wear for each school. Scared us a little that these kids walk to and from school on the side of the road as cars fly by. Super cute kids. Back at the Grand about 4pm, watched the Cricket tournaments at the swim up bar, the West Indies team had a Grenadian playing and they were going to the semi finals. For dinner we drove up to the Flamboyant Hotel just up the road from the Grand. We walked into their manager’s rum party and they ushered us in like we were guests, we decided to play along. Talked for awhile with a group from Oklahoma who were diving all week, discussed Big 12 football, had a good time. Tried to eat there but no one waited on us after waiting 20 mins so headed back to the grand for more fish tacos.
Day Four: last day with the Suzuki so drove into St Georges to do some shopping, shops not open so hiked the hill to the Fort, also home to the Police force. Cannons still pointing out to sea, very old but in good condition. This is where Maurice Bishop and many others were killed in 1983 which prompted the US to get involved. Then off to La Sagesse (pronounced La Sa-guess), old plantation-style house with bed and breakfast type set up. Had greek salads in their restaurant, very good, then walked the beach. Chocolate-brown sand here, huge palms leaning over toward the water, very relaxing cove. I can see staying here to get away from it all. Found a piece of china washed up in the sand, looked old, neat find. Glad we visited. Headed back toward the airport to see the memorial Grenada built for the US intervention in 1983. I can say I was approached by several Grenadians during our stay that wanted to thank me for our help, nice to see the US has one friend still in the world. Made us proud to be Americans. Headed to Mourne Rouge beach which is just south of Grand Anse. Parked at the Gem hotel. Very nice white sand beach. Headed back to the Grand for their manager’s cocktail party and watch the sunset. Tried the Flamboyant again for dinner, this time sat in their main restaurant and though service this time was excellent, the food was not very good. Over-cooked fish for me and bland pasta for Steph.
Day Five: this day was to be a fly-daysail over to Union Island then sail the Grenadines. It was cancelled as couldn’t fill the plane. I went to the tour office and booked a snorkel daysail. An hour later they called and that was changed to a half day sail, again due to lack of filling the boat. Had some time to kill so walked up the main road, few groceries and shopping. At 2pm the catamaran picked us up on the beach, they must have took pity on us as we had the boat to ourselves. Sailed up past the harbor and St Georges, even prettier from the ocean. Snorkeled underwater sculptures I had read about in CT&L magazine, the sea life was abundant, unfortunately some of the sculptures have toppled over already, but it was still interesting. A ring of about 15 people holding hands, a guy on a bicycle, and a guy sitting at a typewriter. On the way back saw the new cricket stadium built by the Chinese, huge stadium. Our guide on the boat told us stories of the 1983 invasion and surviving hurricane Ivan, it was a nice afternoon for our 14th wedding anniversary. Early to bed.
Day Six: had heard and seen about the local buses so decided to give it a try. Buses are actually minivans, like the VW minivan. Each has a driver and a young man who sits behind the driver and waves people down to jump in. $1 USD each, super cheap way to get around. Fun way to interact with the locals. Walked around St Georges then down through the carnege where there is a sculpture of Christ of the deep given by the Italians. An Italian cruise ship burned and sank just outside the harbor in 1961, Grenadians rushed out to help them, no casualties. Again, this harbor is really something to experience. Back to do the beach-pool thing.
Day Seven, last day: Decided to stay on the beach and at the pool all day, we were getting good at this. Another nice lunch at Coconut Beach, good pizza at the hotel for dinner.
Island insights: Our favorite islands so far are Anguilla and St John. Grenada has touches of both islands. Friendly people, good beaches, great food, adorable children = Anguilla. Lush mountains, challenging roads, tropical feel, history = St John. I would say Grenada is now in our top three, it will be on our list to visit again some day. It was easy to get to although takes all day, we are used to that.
What’s next?: our kids are now old enough we want to take them along next year. Anguilla is the top of our list, will depend on air flights. If that falls through will try St John, also considering Tortola, Anegada or Belize. We find FF miles dictates our options.
