BVI Trip report May 16-30, 2009
S/V Sunny Side Up, Bavaria 31 bareboat
Day 1 – Saturday, May 16 Crew of three, David, Gayla, and Steve head to Nanny Cay, Tortola from Little Rock, AR via Atlanta and Miami. Caught all three flights after a sprint through the Miami airport, which by the way you have to go out and back through security between connecting flights, bad design, bad airport, and poor signage. Unfortunately our one checked bag was not so lucky and came in the following day. Arrived in STT, sampled free Cruzen rum shots just inside the door of the airport, and then watched the bag not show up. Filed report and headed to Miller Manor hotel and guest house, talked taxi driver into stopping for beer and ordered pizza to be delivered.
Day 2 – Sunday, May 17 Ate breakfast, called airline and got flight number and arrival time for the checked bag, then partied with hosts and other guests until bag arrival time. The hosts were very nice concerning a late checkout and even gave us a ride back to the airport. Bag had already arrived and in lighting speed (no ilon time here) had already departed for the ferry dock. We caught up with it there and retrieved it in the Road Town C&I office, then headed to Maria’s by the Sea. Got a great room on third floor with balcony overlooking the bay. Had dinner at Pussers and the first painkiller. Walked to Bobby’s market and browsed the selection, then back to the room and crashed.
Day 3 – Monday, May 18 Rented a Subaru from ITGO across the street, had lunch at Capriccio de Mare, then toured Tortola. Drove to top of Sage Mountain and had drinks. Drove to Cane Garden Bay and visited the Callwood Rum Distillery. Drove to Nanny Cay and boarded Sunny Side Up, a 2008 model Bavaria 31. Went shopping for provisions in Road Town. Discovered that Rite Way was a better deal on most stuff, but we did pick up a few things at Bobby’s. Slept over on the boat.
Day 4 – Tuesday, May 19 Dave and Steve go on a quest to find real beer and locate Caribbean Cellers, which turned out to be the best spot for purchasing beer and liquor. They even had Sam Adams by the case for less than it is in the states. Back to Nanny Cay for the chart and boat briefings. This was our first charter so we probably took longer than normal, but both lasted about 45 minutes. It took us about another hour to stow everything and we shoved off from the dock about 1:00, with a course for Norman Island. We dropped the hook and checked out the Willie T and Pirates Bight. Gayla toted her drinking mans guide book to the bars and got free drinks. Steve (the cook) grilled salmon and shrimp over rice with asparagus and squash. DnG chilled on the boat enjoying good cigars while Steve partied on the Willie T’s until they closed it down.
Day 5 – Wednesday, May 20 Set out for an early morning arrival to the moorings at the Caves. This spot filled up quickly. Snorkeled and checked out the little beach on the southwest tip of Norman Island. The rock formations and waves hitting them make for some amazing pictures. We found a hole in the rocks that made a very loud blowing of air when the waves crashed on the rocks below. It was very interesting because it was at least 20-30 yards away from the water. Set sail for the Indians. Snorkeled, had lunch, and set sail for Cooper Island. We made it to the mooring field with about three tacks up the channel, picked up a ball near the north west end of the bay and the cook went to work. Steve whipped up a dinner of rib eye steaks, grilled potatos and squash. That night was the roughest of the trip, with the boat rocking pretty good due to our mooring location and the weather.
Day 6 – Thursday, May 21 Set off for Salt Island and snorkeled over the wreck of the RMS Rhone. Again, we arrived early, were the second boat there, but this mooring field was full in no time. We had lunch then set off for Virgin Gorda Yacht Harbour. This turned out to be an excellent place to restock supplies, take on water, shop, and hit the internet. We spent the night in a slip next to a Hylas 54 and a Amel 53. Dave drooled over these beautiful boats but realized the Bavaria 42 a few slips down would be fine for a couple to retire on. Then something snapped him back to reality, I think it was when his beer was empty.
Day 7 –Friday, May 22 Enjoyed coffee and internet access at the little restaurant near the laundry, picked up some supplies at Bucks grocery, then headed down the island to the Baths. The mooring field was full at noon so we lurked around a bit and finally picked up a ball after a half hour or so. We snorkeled a while then walked the trail. This is when we realized we needed to make a second trip for photos. We set sail for Leverick Bay in Gorda Sound, motoring due to very light air. We arrived at Leverick just after the fuel dock closed and tied up to the T dock. Talked to Nick, who arranged for us to overnight there even though all the slips were full with boats from the poker run. We simply had to reposition the boat to accommodate a mega yacht he was expecting. This turned out to be a Crescent 112, which dwarfed everything else in sight. Talked to Captain Rick and Kim. Kim helped Gayla sort out the dizziness she was experiencing from the scopamine patch she tried. Steve whipped up pork chops with garlic potatoes, shrimp and zucchini squash. We partied at Jumbies, who had a reggae band, until late, which turned into early, and found our way back to the boat.
Day 8 – Saturday, May 23 We shoved off the dock and anchored near Prickly Pear for lunch, then moored at Saba Rock. We shopped for T-shirts and gifts at the Bitter End and Saba gift shops, had lunch, then took a dinghy ride around Saba for some snorkeling on the north side of Prickly Pear. This turned up several conch shells with crabs in them, a live starfish, a 4 foot sand shark on the reef, and several other interesting finds. The poker run party for this night was in Savanah Bay near Spanish Town, so we opted out and anchored near Leverick Marina. Cook Steve prepared grilled chicken with rice.
Day 9 – Sunday, May 24 Leverick Bay was packed from early morning for the poker run, then the helicopters showed up and the race started a little before noon. Luckily the race crew took them out to the middle of the sound for the start. When the boats started returning about three hours later, some cut directly through the mooring field at speeds that were a bit too much. Several boats cut back and forth through the mooring field at over 40 mph, all this with sailboat people nearby in dinghy’s. We watched as two women off a Benateau 49 almost got run over by a red speedboat on their third 40 mph pass. Once he had impressed everyone and left, we moved to an anchor and had dinner.
Day 10 – Monday, May 25 We left North Sound for an early arrival at the baths, but not before noticing we had lost a fender. Searched the shoreline in the dinghy for a few minutes and gave up. This time we arrived at the Baths in time to pick up a mooring. We took photos, visited the Poor Man’s Bar, ate lunch, and set off for Marina Cay. This was a nice broad reach across the channel. We got there in time to take on water, make a beer run across to Trellis Bay, and check out the Pussers store. Chef Steve cooked up some beef and chicken fajitas and taco salads. We watched the fish go after the left overs later that night. Several 3-4 foot fish and a small tuna entertained us for a while.
Day 11 Tuesday, May 26 Got a little early morning rain, steady for about 20 minutes, the longest shower of the trip. We were still able to leave early for Jost Van Dyke, motoring through the Little Camanoe passage, raised the sails and set off almost due west for JVD. This 13 mile leg was the longest of the trip, and a very enjoyable downwind run. Shot a couple of sailing videos, took a bunch of pictures, and enjoyed Cuban cigars. Arrived at White Bay JVD a little after noon. This made for an interesting attempt at anchoring among the 50-60 other boats there. After getting the hook set in about 7 feet of water, we watched as boats just kept coming in. It got really crowded, but we never experienced any close calls except for a few day charter groups. Luckily these had experienced skippers who could maneuver their boats really well, sometimes literally only a few feet away. We ate lunch at One Love, had drinks, visited Ivan’s and bought T-shirts at the Soggy Dollar. Most boats cleared out that evening, leaving less than 15 or so to overnight at White Bay. Cook Steve prepared chicken spaghetti.
Day 12 Wednesday, May 27 The entire crew agreed we should have stopped at JVD first. We shot photos early before the hordes of tourists arrived on day charter boats, played on the beach, snorkeled the reef, took some underwater photos on the seaside of the reef, partied at One Love, shopped for souvenirs, and ate lunch aboard. We met some college guys sailing dad’s Baravia 50, Moby. Toured Moby, had drinks with Seth and the guys, and took pictures for a possible next charter. Impressive boat compared to what we were used to. Pulled the hook and tried to take on water at Little Bay, but that didn’t work out. Anchored in Great Harbour next to Stennella, a 63' beauty. We ate dinner, watched a boat grounding, then watched Dave swim for the dinghy after it got loose <img src="http://www.traveltalkonline.com/forums/images/graemlins/duh.gif" alt="" />. We took the drinking mans guide to Corsairs for a free drink, then to Foxy’s for a free beer.
Day 13 Thursday, May 28 We had coffee and watched some impressive boats depart the harbor. Went ashore and ate at Christine’s bakery. We shopped for gifts at Foxy’s and set off for Sopers Hole to take on water, do a little browsing, and redeem some more drinking mans guide free drink coupons. We saw some really snobby tourists on a big motor yacht get busted when one of them fired up a Cuban cigar he had just paid 30 bucks for in the Pusser’s store. The barkeep told him he could not smoke in public, which was very hard for him to accept. He finally left and returned with no cigar. We motored to Cane Garden Bay and dropped the hook for the night. We were entertained by some guys skiing behind a dinghy for a little while. Tonight we were down to sea rations out of a can and leftovers. This anchorage was one of the most enjoyable and picturesque one of the trip, a perfect way to end it and a sunset for photos.
Day 14 Friday, May 29 Woke up early and motored to Road Town in a quest to pick up a replacement fender for less than the listed 80 bucks on the charter equipment sheet. Found one at Marine Depot for 61 bucks but opted for the one at Golden Hind for 41. Funny, it was the same exact part. Got the fender and rope, left Road Harbour, and set sail the last time downwind to Nanny Cay. We topped the tanks off, went through a pretty easy check out with Horizon, and booked a 1:30 taxi to the ferry docks, took the Road Town Fast Ferry to Charlotte Amalie, hitched a ride from our hosts back to the Miller Manor, and cleaned up for dinner. Went to Betsy’s in French town for dinner with John, a guy we met in Virgin Gorda at the poker run. He lived on St. Thomas and called when we arrived, picked us up in his Jeep, and partied with us until we were out of gas for the night.
Day 15 Saturday, May 30 Ate breakfast while overlooking the Bay, watched the seaplanes come and go, chilled out on the patio, checked email, and hitched another ride to the airport from our gracious hosts. The line for American was not that long, but the customs and immigration was really long and hot. We over packed for the trip, as many do, and it was starting to really be a pain going back and forth through the queues. This process took about 2 hours before we were through security and able to make it to the gate.
The good – The sailing, the snorkeling, the beautiful water, Gayla’s new bikinis, bringing my own binoculars and GPS, having a first mate that can cook, Caribbean Cellars, Jost Van Dyke, meeting cool local people, Miller Manor hotel and guest house in St. Thomas.
The not so good – Over packing for the trip and having to haul it through all the airports, checked bag was a day late arriving and two days late on the return, and encountered a few snobby tourists from the Northeast.
The bad – Miami’s poor excuse for an airport, the lines at St. Thomas airport, and two bottles of rum breaking in the hands of the airlines, and having to replace a boat fender.
It was a blast, can’t wait til next year!
Dave and Gayla
