Twas the night after Christmas at 3:00AM when we began our trek to JFK for our annual New Years trip to SXM. Got to the American terminal 4 hours early and needed every minute of it. It took one hour to check in and about 2 hours and 15 minutes to clear security as well as ½ hour to board after one final check. The security appeared fairly tight and people actually looked at the x-ray screens and at your face when they checked your passports. We all still felt very apprehensive, but when we got on the plane, Chevy Chase and Liam Neesam were sitting in first class on their way to St. Barths, I felt much better as I knew they would protect all of us. I’m not sure that the above time frames are standard at JFK since we realize that this is still one of the busiest times of the year.<br> <br>A LITTLE BACKGROUND FOR PERSPECTIVE - Our crew consists of myself, wife, 21-year-old son on Christmas break from college and 15-year-old daughter from the NYC area. This is our 5th annual New Years trip and tenth over all, so we pretty much have this down to a science. Don’t do the nude deal-not that there’s anything wrong with it, and stay on the Dutch side since I do the casino deal. It did, however, look very interesting when the nude couple went parasailing at Orient-talk about hanging-out! Our routine pretty much never varies and the word budget is not in our vocabulary. We wake up about 9:00AM and hit different beaches every day by around 10:30AM. Caribs in the AM, a full lunch around 1:30PM, either continuing getting blasted or napping after lunch, back to the unit for showers and Bloody Mary’s, happy hour somewhere and dinner at 9:00PM. Hit the casino about 5 times and went out most other nights somewhere, i.e to watch Miami/Nebraska or to a party. By the way, we all agreed that our trips have been better every time and that this was the best yet. <br><br>A FEW OBSERVATIONS – Cleaner, greener and almost dead. Obviously, 9-11 as well as the economy kept a lot of people away, not that we didn’t enjoy the quiet. It reminded me of being there in June or July. Crime – none, zero, nada, no evidence of any, not even a rumor. As a matter of fact, it appeared that the locals were friendlier than ever. Did see police presence in Marigot, Grand Case, all over the Dutch side, even on Orient Beach. A lot of rastas selling ganga right in front of them, but no problem mon!<br><br>THE WEATHER – 11 out of 10. 86 with a breeze, mostly sunny with about 15 minutes of rain around 9:30PM New Years Eve. Around 74 at night. As a matter of fact, the weather was too good as we kept saving shopping and visiting for the day when the rain came, since there was no way it could hold up, and the kids didn’t want to miss any tanning days! It did, so we missed some things we usually do.<br><br>A COUPLE OF QUESTIONS THAT HAVE NO ANSWERS – How can there be half the people on the island, yet twice as much traffic around Marigot and over the hill by Phillipsburg? How the hell do the locals on scooters and motorcycles, most riding on one wheel without helmets stay alive?<br><br>THE ELECTRIC STRIKE – the electric company went on strike at 8:00PM on New Years Eve. Apparently, they thought it was a strong negotiating point. Andy from Baywatch was a little upset. He said that it was over something in Guadeloupe, and about a dozen workers in St. Martin got on the bandwagon and it snowballed from there. On an island where tourism is the main product and tourism is way down post 9/11, what was their point? People were checking out of LeMeridian and LaSamanna as well as the Orient Beach hotels by the dozens since one of the afterthoughts of the loss of electric was loss of water! Generators didn’t help this. People were stranded for New Years Eve dinners (luckily we were at Saratoga), The shops in Marigot were closed for a couple of days, and many restaurants were closed. A lot of places were able to open with their own generators later in the week, but some things were limited. All in all a tremendous loss of income for the island and for those who were in SXM for the first time a real downer. The only problem it presented to us was that ZeeBest was closed, so we had to make do with the Croissantari, we couldn’t shop in Marigot when we wanted and LaBelleEpoque didn’t have some of our favorite dishes like stuffed crabs. After the strike the island was even deader.<br>They seem to be building a very high end mall on the Marigot waterfront, it looks beautiful.<br><br>THE CAR RENTAL – Rent every year from Mikey at Tropical Car Rental. We have used a few different guys recommended on the travel talk board in the past and really never had great luck. Always get a brand new Rav 4. When we get off the plane, he always has cold Heinys ready for us and he has his baggage guy, Yanchi spirit us out of the customs line, take us through the local customs line and pull our bags with the red yarn, mon, off the conveyor. He then takes our bags to the Atruim while we drive the other car. Got him years ago off Jeff Bergers Worlds Best SXM Website and have used him ever since. The service simply can’t be any better and Mikey is a great guy. He is constantly available on his cell phone in the event of a problem. Contact him on one of his cell numbers at 011-590590-273758 or 011-5995576069 or email him at mikey@tropical-tropicana.com. <br><br>THE ACCOMODATIONS – Stay half the time at the Atrium and the other half at the Royal Palm. Both are class operations and we couldn’t be happier.<br><br>THE RESTAURANTS – We go out to eat a lot both in New Jersey and in the City so we consider ourselves somewhat gourmets. Many of the restaurants were empty and easy to walk into and sit any time; however, the best ones were still full and required reservations well in advance. The only rule we have is that we eat outside. I will rank them in order of favorites, hell, they’re all my favorites.<br><br>Rainbow ($$$) – Our personal favorite. Right on the water in Grand Case. Highly imaginative French menu with exceptional deserts and a wine list to match. We have a lot of appetizers, split a couple of entrées, and have a few deserts. Fleur, David and Nory are big time hosts. Service is extremely professional. Opening the deck upstairs was an inspiration for before dinner cocktails of an after dinner drink. We noticed many who ate at other restaurants coming here for a nightcap.<br><br>Mario’s Bistro ($$$) – Real close second. Sandy Ground. Love the Thai/French fusion menu and the fish feeding right beneath you. Great Duck Pad Thai. Good wine list, not exceptional. Reservations required, at least two weeks in advance for a seat on the rail.<br><br>Bar de la Mer ($$$) – Marigot waterfront – Always enjoy the action at this outdoor café. The best, freshest grilled lobster on the island and the biggest prawns I have ever seen. Always a fun time. Reservations required, although same day is all right. The power outage didn’t bother them.<br><br>Sol E Luna ($$$) – Mount Vernon – First time at this very attractive restaurant with a garden like atmosphere with a view of Orient Bay. Creative French/Creole menu with a good wine list. Voted most romantic in Daily Herald readers poll. Reservations required. Ask for outdoor seating.<br><br>Saratoga ($$$$) – Simpson Bay – Always consistent creation of John James, graduate of NY Culinary School. Attractive setting, especially on the Atrium. High quality food, not as imaginative menu as some, however, everything is good. This is a place to sip a martini at the bar, have a great meal and have a nice single malt or port with dessert. Pricey. Reservations required. <br><br>La Vie en Rose ($$$) – Marigot waterfront – Very attractive restaurant overlooking the harbor. The tables for two on the deck are outstanding especially at sunset, which unfortunately was to early for us. Classic French with outstanding deserts. Reservations required, although the same week is fine.<br><br>Jean Dupont ($$1/2) – Marigot Marina – Unfortunately, service was a bit off. The waitress was very frank with us in that they don’t know how to staff post 9/11. Some nights are busy and others are dead. Still the best duck filet mignon (sorry Rainbow and Marios) and bouillabaisse on the island with a fantastic setting. No reservations required. <br><br>Lee’s Roadside Grill ($1/2) – Simpson Bay, across from the Royal Palm – Alright, the place is no palace and the service may be slow, however, still the best fresh, grilled fish I have ever had. Lee’s menu is only what he caught that day. Also, the ribs rival Pedro’s. Lee cut off a big hunk of Wahoo right in front of me, spiced it and his chef(?) Ricky grilled it to perfection, served it with homemade potato salad, rice and beans, and it was great. Also, he has local entertainment ant night and Lee is a character. This place personifies the island! <br>If anyone likes to DEEP SEA FISH, Lee and ChiChi are your guys. I usually go, but never got around to it this time, however, a family I referred got 2 dolphin(mahi-mahi), 4 wahoo and a big tuna. Reserve in advance since he’s usually booked.<br><br>Le Belle Epoque ($$) – Marigot Marina – Due to the power outage, some menu items were unavailable(including the stuffed crabs), however, the best pizza on the island and the salads are great in a great atmosphere with great service. Beats BDLG by a long shot.<br><br>LUNCHES, BEACH BARS OTHER – As I mentioned, we lunch every day. There is nothing like getting gourmet lunches in these unbelievable settings.<br><br>Pedros – Orient Beach – Sorry Andy, but Pedros is the king of beach lunches. The spicy ribs are some of the best on the island (tied with Lee’s). Don’t underestimate the drinks either, they make a killer Dirty Banana. Not as crowded as in the past, no wait, the food came quickly, I was in shock. This is a don’t miss.<br><br>Baywatch – Orient Beach – One of the great places on the island. Where else can you get fresh mussels on assorted ravioli with Andy’s “forgetaboutit” sauce for lunch? Always welcoming, Cheryl and Andy are great hosts. TTOL flags, shirt, hat prominently displayed. Not to be missed.<br><br>Ric’s American Café – Simpson Bay – great Nacho platter and a great place to watch games. We had pre-game every night here with Vodka and lemonades.<br><br>Cheries – Had lunch here the day we were leaving and went one other night for cocktails and saw the show. It hasn’t changed in since Luis. Hokey, but fun. Good Burger along with otherwise adequate food. Still not to be missed.<br><br>Bikini Beach – Had tapas (appetizers) for lunch along with a couple bottles of Rose. Great place.<br><br>Coco Beach – Had excellent pizza and salad here for lunch along with a couple bottles of Rose as well as ALL the rum they had in the place. This made for a lost afternoon, although we continued to Baywatch for Tequila, dinner at BardeLaMer, casino and party at Bliss. We were a tad under the weather the next day.<br><br>Chilis – Went for cocktails prior to Mario’s. Nice atmosphere with a pool table that is not too level.<br><br>Cliffside Beach Bar – Cupecoy – You enter through the iron gate directly across from the Atlantis. One of the great places on earth for cocktails at sunset. Killer mudslide.<br><br>Croissanteri – Marigot Marina – not as good as ZeeBest for breakfast, but open and in a nicer atmosphere. <br><br>Gus’Beach Bar and Raymonds Beach Bar – Baie Rouge – adequate.<br><br>Bliss – Caravanseri – Great place that took over the imposter Baywatch. Trying to take over Thursday’s from Indianas and doing a great job, although most of the nights were crowded. Great local band and nice atmosphere. Recommended. Some people were also raving about lunch and dinner.<br><br>Dolphin Casino – If you gamble a little or a lot, this is the only place to do it in SXM. The place is the nicest one in my opinion, and everybody from the dealers to the managers and owner are as nice and friendly as can be. They really make the gaming experience fun and I have never won anyway at the Casino Royale or Princess anyway.<br><br>OTHER – Followed the advice on the board and checked in to the airport early and paid the departure tax and then went and had lunch. It probably saved us two hours of waiting in a non-air-conditioned line. They hand search every piece of luggage. They are very professional at it, but it is time consuming. There airport was a zoo, people and taxis and cars were lined up outside when we came back.<br><br>SHOPPING – Lot of shops in Marigot were closed due to the electric strike, however, this is still the place to go. Very high-end shops and nice atmosphere. It appears that they are starting to occupy a very high-end mall on the waterfront, my wife got all excited. I don’t understand why anyone goes to Phillipsburg, although we did – it’s hot, crowded, and they sell nothing but junk. Unless you’re shopping for jewelry or cigars (Guhlomars-on Front St is the place, Cubans at reasonable prices and I know they’re real), this is a don’t bother.<br><br>By the way, one of the great services of the TTOL Board is the cruise ship schedule; you know when to go to beaches or shopping.<br><br>BEACHES<br><br>Orient – The beach between KonTiki is getting narrower, however, the beach by Coco is getting wider. The beach was awesome!!<br><br>Baie Rouge – The beach is back without the rocks impeding your entry to the water. Still a steep drop-off and different sand, but nice. The breeze was blowing from the northeast, so it was pretty hot, however, a nice alternative when the cruise ships are in and it gets crowded at Orient.<br><br>Mullett - Very nice beach, now with some services, i.e. snacks, open bathroom. See above for the heat on the beach.<br><br>Cupecoy – There was plenty of beach on the south end by the Cliffside Beach Bar. As a matter of fact we walked all the way to the caves. The water was calm due to the direction of the breeze. I long for the days when you could get a massage in the caves.<br><br>Well, that’s it; I think I’ve gone on long enough. As I have said before, this was the best trip yet and we can’t wait to return for next New Years.<br>If anyone has any questions, please feel free to email me.<br><br><P ID="edit"><FONT SIZE=-1><EM>Edited by Administrator on 1/22/02 04:01 PM.</EM></FONT></P>
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