Thought I would provide some general thoughts about our trip to BVI this past week without a detailed, daily travel log. Mostly a collection of the high points and general observations that might impact those making the same trek in the coming weeks and months.
We routed through Charlotte Amalie on St Thomas due to the lack of service to Tortola by our carrier (American). Olga's Fancy Hotel was quiet nice-clear, quiet and reasonably priced if you are not looking for a resort. If you are not a fan of stairs, however, Olga's might move down your list. No problem for us, but moving our gear up and down the multiple level of stairs was not the highlight of our trip. That said, we would be glad to stay there next trip.
Fast Ferry ride from CA to Road Town was, to say the least, sporty for the first 30 minutes. Once in the shadow of St John and then Tortola, ride substantially improved. We only wish the mood of the people at the Ferry, both in CA and in Road Town improved as much. After eight trips to BVI, I was surprised to find staff at most of the entry and transit points, at best, borderline rude. Equally, our "greeting" at the Moorings was equally less than welcoming. Once past the arrival desk, however, the mood of most of the Moorings team was considerably improved. Throughout our trip, we found the overwhelming majority of locals we encountered to be less than welcoming or friendly. We did have a couple of cab drivers in Anegada to be most gracious. Also, kudos to an older gentleman at the fuel dock at Great Harbor in Jost Van Dyke who gushed appreciation for our presence, noting "if it was not for you (cruisers), we (the locals) would still be living in total destruction." This was the first and only local we encountered who shared any genuine recognition of the tourist trade as it impacts their daily lives. Workers in most of the local shops and provisioning stops seemed almost put out that we were making purchases in their shops. Restaurant workers were generally a bit more friendly.
Our party of four couples thoroughly enjoyed the week on a Moorings 4800 that was in overall excellent condition, inside and out. No major issues with the boat throughout the week. The Moorings also had a 15 hp Yamaha on the dinghy as compared to the 9.9 hp version we had generally experienced in the past--made a real difference as we moved our load of eight folks through the various ports.
Restaurant prices throughout the islands seemed to have substantially increased their prices over our past trips. As noted in prior reports on this site, Pirates was grossly overpriced. $35-40 entrees under the tent on Marina Cay seemed equally stout. The bargain seemed to the the Friday evening BBQ at Foxy's. Wonky Dog was again the highlight of our meals. Not cheap, but definitely worth it.
For those looking for restaurants in St Thomas or Tortola, be advised that most of the better restaurants are closed on Sundays in both locations. French Quarter Bistro in Charlotte Amalie was the exception and we had a great meal there.
Liquid provisioning ordered in advance through the Moorings and Caribbean Cellars was quiet cost effective as compared to making similar purchases at RiteWay, Bobbies, and the local small provisioning shops. I would highly recommend that you order your water, beer, wine and liquor through your charter provider or Caribbean Cellars to the extent possible.
Grocery provisioning at both RiteWay and Bobbies at Cane Garden Bay was reasonably priced and the selections of almost anything you could want was extensive.
Moorings/anchoring--while at the arrivals ferry terminal at Road Town, we ran into a good friend who was in the departure side of the facility. He advised that every ball was taken early in the afternoon in every port he visited the week prior to our arrival. As we sailed Monday afternoon, however, we found ample room in Norman, Marina Cay, Great Harbor Jost Van Dyke, and Norman at the end of our trip. Cooper and Anegada mooring fields looked like a Walmart parking lot on a friday evening. We saw the BoatyBall moorings at Cooper and Anegada, but as noted in many previous posts, not a snowball's chance in Hell that you could reserve one. We passe up Cooper due to the lack of moorings and space for anchoring and ultimately had to anchor at Anegada.
Watching the weather the week prior to our arrival, we had concerns about stronger than usual winds and bigger seas. However, the gods were smiling on us our week and we had the most pleasant weather and winds encountered in our eight visits to the islands.
Bottom line, we had a blast and will be back sooner than later.
