TRIP REPORT 12/21/09 – 1/3/10 Christmas/New YearsHi everyone. We just returned from 14 glorious days in our favorite 2nd home. We have been going to St. Maarten since 1984, with our first stay at Mullet Bay. How the island has changed since then! Unfortunately, we were unable to go last Christmas due to Hurricane Omar, which caused the Royal Islander to close from October 2008 to March 2009. Therefore, I apologize if any of this info is old news to some of you.
FLIGHTSAmerican Airlines direct flight from JFK, New York. Got delayed one day going down due to huge snowstorm in New York—20 inches on Long Island. Luckily we had anticipated major issues and moved our flight from Sunday to Monday BEFORE the flight was actually canceled Sunday morning.
Coming home, were delayed on runway one hour in St. Maarten, waiting for private jets to take off first! Then at JFK, a malfunction of the belt that takes the luggage off the plane caused a 2 hour delay at the baggage claim carousel.
ROYAL ISLANDER LA PLAGE / MAHO areaThe resort was well-maintained as always, and the flowers on the property were truly beautiful. Our unit, which is on the ground floor, had been totally renovated due to the hurricane last year. We have beautiful new furnishings and new appliances and cabinets in the kitchen area. Unfortunately, we had NO BEACH during our entire 2 week stay. I have NEVER seen the ocean waves so high here. They were actually going over the sea wall, and over the pink fence that separates the pool area from the beach. One day the waves actually went all the way into the pool! The rocks were exposed at the base of the steps to the beach, and the water came all the way up to the seawall every day (and some days over it). Here is a link to a couple of photos of the sand erosion up on the pool deck, as well as my favorite sunset photo. (I hope the link works).
http://www5.snapfish.com/thumbnailshare/AlbumID=3554292014/a=99953890_99953890/Internet access still continues to be an issue at the Royal Islander. For the first week and a half, we were told that we could get wireless service in the lobby or by the pool only. However, I was never able to get service by the pool. During our last 2 days, we were told that there is now internet service in the rooms, but that didn’t work for us while we were there either. Perhaps it is working now.
The Tortuga restaurant was very good this year for breakfast and lunch, and there were no issues getting towels by the pool. Unfortunately, beach chairs and umbrellas were a little tough to get, since all the people who would normally sit down on the beach (the beach has its own chairs and umbrellas) had to sit up by the pool area.
We still have access to the gym on the 3rd floor of the Maho Hotel. However, it is starting to show signs of age and a lack of maintenance. Two treadmills were out of order during our entire 2-week stay.
Overall though, we still love our little home away from home, and wouldn’t dream of staying anywhere other than the Royal Islander La Plage. The landscaping is breathtaking, and there are always workers raking, cleaning, pruning, and generally maintaining the property. The location can’t be beat, with the Casino Royale across the street, and many GREAT restaurants, bars, and clubs within walking distance.
RESTAURANTS and BARSThis was the second year in a row that we did not go to Grand Case at all for dinner. Since our favorites L’Alabama and Sebastiano are out of business, since many restaurants there are still not 1:1, and since we now have great ones on the Dutch side, we just did not feel like making the trek. However, we did try many restaurants this year that are new to us, though not necessarily new to the island
Mario’s (Sandy Ground)– Still excellent food and service overall, the best duck on the island; Martine is still at medical school, but Mario is still cooking and all
is delicious; unfortunately, not 1:1 so a little pricey at about $80+ per head
Le Belle Epoque (Marigot Marina)– went twice for the best escargot on the island, and great pizza; Love the atmosphere and people watching here
Pizza Pasta (Maho) – Great pizza, pasta bolognese, and veal parm as always
La Rosa Too (Maho) – Best osso bucco on the island as always; excellent red sauce too; we went here for New Years’ Eve as a party of 20 split between 2 tables of 10; our table got decent service, but the other table had not gotten their entrees as of 11:30 p.m. (had a 9:00 reservation); this is not the first time we have had bad service in this restaurant unfortunately, but the food is still great
St. Maarten Yacht Club (Simpson Bay Bridge)—first time here – Went for breakfast; Very good food and service, and we enjoyed watching the parade of boats leave at 11:00, and new ones enter at 11:30
Uncle Harry’s (past airport heading to Simpson Bay) –first time here – LOVED IT!! Great food and very friendly, exceptional service. My daughter and I shared a 3 ˝ pound lobster, and my husband had a sirloin steak special; Would definitely go again, though a little pricey at close to $60 per person. Thanks to all who constantly recommend it here –it got US there!
Taloula Mango’s (Phillipsburg on the boardwalk) – lunch on the beach; good ribs; if you sit on the beach chairs in front of the restaurant (we paid $10 for 2 chairs and an umbrella), your “beach boy” will bring you a menu and deliver your food
Topper’s By the Sea (Flamingo Hotel) – Went for 2 for 1 happy hour; lovely setting with pretty sunset, but appetizers were just ok; wouldn’t go there to eat
Sunset Bar and Grill (Maho by airport) – went twice; had grilled swordfish sandwich and hot dog— Both excellent; and they now serve great crispy French Fries (Sunset Beach Bar only gave you potato chips)
Izi (new restaurant in Simpson Bay) – recommended by Deepti, and did not disappoint – pretty restaurant, and a fun menu, particularly if you like pasta—you pick your pasta and then your Sauce (they have other things also); excellent food and friendly fast service; about $40 per
Person (we all had pasta)
Pineapple Pete’s (Simpson Bay) – went twice – excellent food, and owner, Pete, really takes pride in
his food and service; very attentive wait staff; we went one night with 27 people (4 tables seated at same time) and all had good service and good food, from wraps to short ribs to lobster thermidor; Tuesdays there is a great classic rock band there, and my husband got to sit in with the band to play the drums both Tuesdays we were on island (the 2nd time, our 25 friends watched); great time if you like live music, and I highly recommend the food as well
Zee Best (Simpson Bay) – went for breakfast; excellent crepes
Bucaneer Beach Bar (Simpson Bay) -- good ribs; fun atmosphere
Montmarte (Cupecoy by Atlantis Casino) -- worst meal of trip; first time here; friends said the decor and menu have changed; we were the only party in the whole restaurant and had terrible service-- 8:30 reservation, but appetizers came at 10:00, entrees at 11:00; food wasn't awful, but not worth the $75 per person; would not go back
BEACHESSecond year in a row we did not make it to Orient Beach – guess we just got lazy, and fed up with the traffic; spent most of our time on our pool deck overlooking the ocean, though I truly did miss sitting on the Maho Beach in front of our building (though I did manage to go into the ocean there a few days); Spent 2 days in Phillipsburg (Great Bay Beach), which is a great way to spend a day, though it was rainy and cloudy one of those days. Those who want to shop, shop, and the rest of us hang out on beach chairs in front of Taloula Mangos. We order lunch and beers from there and spend a very relaxing day on the beach. The new boardwalk has made it such a pleasant destination now.
SHOPPINGDid some damage with Deepti and her brothers at DK Gems in Phillipsburg. They are always so accommodating and it is truly a pleasure doing business with them. Deepti, next year, we are going dancing!!!
FUN AND ADVENTURELoterie Farm Fly Zone – 3rd year in a row doing ; this year tried the new “Extreme” course – higher and faster than the regular Fly Zone; recommended for all adventurous types in good health; since we
were last there, they added a lovely bar area with comfortable couches; tapas menu looked great; We
have eaten in the Loterie Farm restaurant there, which is good, but this new bar with its small plate menu looked like a nice place to hang out—next time will try the food
Dive Safari – we had booked Scuba Diving for my daughter here as always, but due to the HUGE waves this week, the dive was canceled.
OBSERVATIONSWeird weather -- Hottest 2 weeks I can remember in all my years visiting the island; had thunder and lightning one day which we have never seen here; 2 full days of rain; highest waves ever; There was a full moon the 2nd week, but is that what all this was about? Was it from the volcano eruption?? Global warming?? Anyone know what’s going on??
Le Saint Germaine on the Marigot Marina, which has always been our favorite spot for crepes, has closed
Ric’s Place in Simpson Bay is now Bonita’s Cantina – friends liked it; said the owner is from Tennessee and has won several awards for his bbq food
Road to Sunset Bar and Grill was flooded several nights due to waves going over the wall at Maho
Crime is definitely on the rise, and anyone who says it isn’t is just shutting their eyes; one couple from our group, who stay in St. Maarten 4 weeks every year, were victims of an attempted robbery at 7 pm in Phillipsburg; so although friends told us about 2 good new restaurants in Phillipsburg, including Fusion, it still seems unsafe to remain in Phillipsburg after dark
MANY of us at the Royal Islander (over 20 people) got violently ill on various nights. At first
we thought it was food poisoning, and kept comparing what we ate. But each day we would
talk to one or 2 more people who got sick the night before, and all of us ate at different
restaurants and different foods; I actually got it the night I got back to New York; one guy in
our group went to the Dr. while on island, and the Dr. said it was a virus and gave him anti-
nausea medicine; I am wondering if anyone else who was on the island during this period encountered something similar; I believe I also heard that a lot of people in the Maho Hotel were sick as well those weeks.
There you have it!! Sorry this is so long, but I know I always pick up one or two new restaurants or things to do from these trip reports, even after all these years of visiting the island. Overall, we had another fantastic trip, though we didn’t venture very far. We always had to plan car trips around cruise ships and bridge openings, due to terrible traffic. That’s about all I can remember. Post any questions here, or feel free to e-mail me privately. Already counting down to next year!!!!
