Trip Report Jan18-28; updates to FAQS<br><br>We had a great trip; spent 5 days each at Cane Garden Bay on Tortola and at La Cachette studio (Guavaberry Spring Bay Homes managed property) on VG. WE have stayed at both properties twice previously and were delighted to be returning. I've done this as observations rather than minute-by-minute:<br><br>WEATHER the temps were in the 75-85 degree range day and night. The days were sunny to partly sunny with rain nearly every night, and one day of rain until about 1pm. Swells were significant and the winds ranged around 20mph and up, esp. at night. I was glad I was not on a boat as there looked to be lots of rocking and rolling some evenings. <br><br>AIRPORT WAITS - Lines at Boston's Logan were not perceptibly longer than in October or December although we left on the 18th, the day that checked luggage was supposed to be screened. On arrival at Beef Island, they simply asked what we had, I said "just stuff" and he waved us thru. On the return, luggage at Beef Island was "inspected" on a table in the middle of the terminal while we waited to check in…I use the term loosely as there was much going thru the dirty laundry but none of the inner compartments or bags were checked. They did ask if we had hot sauce! <br>In San Juan, lights in the terminal went off briefly but then the AC died and the flight was delayed. Never did figure out how a flight could be delayed one hour but still arrive on time (built in lag time, h-mm?) <br><br>CARRY-ONS - are still being searched thoroughly and things confiscated. One woman at Logan was told if she had an envelope and stamps, they'd mail it back to her. Some men were being asked to take their shoes off.<br><br>LATECOMERS LOSE SEATS - At Beef Island, some folks were really upset because they said their yacht charter company told them that it was only necessary to be there 1 hour in advance, they cut it too close, lost their seats, and had to take a later flight.<br><br>GREEN ISLANDS - the most lush green we've ever seen; more home gardens were seen. <br><br>BUGS - not noticeable, I got bitten only while sleeping.<br><br>ROADS - there have been appreciable improvements in the road conditions, lots of widening and surface improvements; they are really into asphalt esp. on Tortola; on some of the steeper grades, I like the striated cement for road grip but looks like the concrete may be going to home building? There are also more curbs and side rails; I like the look of the stone ones on VG but then, any is better than none on those steep roads.<br>There is major roadwork planned from Savannah Bay to Nail Bay on VG with the current work situated over Mahoe Bay, which unfortunately means right next to many villas there.<br><br>LONG BAY CONSTRUCTION - there is one villa nearing completion on the hill over the east end center. The three that were being worked on at the far west end look done with landscaping and road work to be done…since rooms 501,3 etc are right next to the road there, I'd be wary of staying in those units; they are covered with road dust.<br><br>HOME CONSTRUCTION is booming on both islands; we were flabbergasted to see the villa-to-villa hillside on Mahoe Bay next to Mango Bay Resort. There is a pueblo like structure that is truly stunning just below Katiche Point. But I cannot help but wonder about the necessity to crowd everything in like that. Just MHO.<br><br>BVI TOURIST BOARD SIGNS- these are new, attractive blue and gold signs with arrows to local spots, beaches, etc; perfect for new visitors…nice touch as no one likes to feel lost on vacation even if you did pick up the freebie map at the airport.<br><br>OBSERVATION DECKS - on VG, these are appearing at several photo op overlooks as well as better-cleared and widened pull over areas, courtesy of the tourist board.<br><br>AIRPORT CONSTRUCTION ON TORTOLA- "soon come, mon" - the terminal is huge compared to the old one and is finished outside with interior work is going on. Current issue has to do with communications systems. The roads and the extended airstrip are not, and the date keeps getting moved; the taxi driver moans when you ask the inevitable question. Our driver said "I don't know what to tell you; it changes all the time!" Robert suggested that he just pick a date since that's what the government seems to be doing and he laughed and said, "You got it!"<br>The Jan 17th BVI Beacon says terminal to be dedicated in March but some of the contracts for the entire project have not yet been awarded so the total completion is set for June 2003. O-kay.<br><br>NEW BRIDGE TO BEEF ISLAND - it's there but the very short road to the bridge is not as "out of money" is the word…$13 million so far for a bridge only about 150 feet long. For those who have not been there in a while, the gentleman collecting the toll is no longer there but the cup for collection still is. We couldn't find out how the toll will be collected in the future. The locals are uniformly upset at the costs of these projects (we didn't want to tell them about Boston's "Big Dig")<br><br>BOATS - CGB regularly had 26 to 49 every night we were there (18th-22nd)<br><br>DINGHIES- anyone lose one? There was a loose gray rubber one on the shore to the far right of the CGB dinghy dock that floated out and was retrieved and tied at the dock but it never seemed to have a claimer.<br><br>DINGHIES on the beaches - despite signs to the contrary, they continue landing at the Baths and Devil's Bay on VG; sign states "use the dinghy dock" but I never saw one; does anyone know if that is a work in progress or did I miss something?<br><br>SUGGESTION FOR BOATERS LANDING AT SPRING BAY on VG - unless you are a goat, there is no path from Spring Bay to the Baths; you will have to walk out to the road, walk exactly 1/2 mile on the road and then go down the trail to the Baths. Can't tell you how many bare boaters unloaded there and were disappointed esp. since they had sent their dinghy back and often out of contact. (Walkie-talkies…?)<br> <br>REALLY MUNDANE INFO? - VG is only 8 miles from The Baths on the SW end to North Sound on the NE end but it will take you about 25 minutes. Just for fun, we checked the mileage from several points. Starting at the Baths, it is .4 miles to Guavaberry and another .1 mile to Spring Bay (essentially adjoining one another). From the Baths, it is only 1.6 miles to the Yacht Harbor and center of town, and another 1.5 miles from town to Savannah Bay. Then it is another 4.9 over the mountain to the North Sound. I would have sworn it was a LOT farther esp.from Savannah to North Sound. Anyone wanting to go over the mountain on foot should be in great shape and take plenty of water and sunscreen and when people like us offer a ride, consider it. On both islands, we noticed some people who were in great shape and obviously enjoying it but there were a few who looked like they were wiped. <br>We did not clock mileages on T but one couple we gave a ride to said they had hiked the previous day early in the morning into Roadtown from Cane Garden Bay, it took them over an hour and going downhill was much harder on their knees. PS they took a taxi back.<br><br>TOLLBOOTH at the Baths is done but not in operation; scheduled for "the next tourist season"…?<br><br>BATHS TOUR - having done the Baths tour on our own several times, it was fun to follow the map on www.thebathsbvi.com/map by D.R.McClintock.<br>But I would add the best spot is the turtle at the top of the Baths…before the toll booth, walk to the left toward the trail to Devil's Bay, go onto the trail only about 100 feet and look to the WSW…it's the Baths and Turtle!<br><br>LITTER CAMPAIGN WORKING - wow, some cities I know could take a page here from VG; there are roadside dumpsters to assist household dumping and tourist spot canisters (which fill quickly) and there was literally no trash to be seen. Even the sides of the road seem to have been cleared of brush; it looks so spiffy.<br><br>COWS - we missed them on the roads in VG but we didn't miss the cow pies! They are getting loads of grass, brush etc brought by truck each day.<br><br>BUSINESS had picked up for Jan and looks better for February, they told us. The government is assisting by canceling taxes on tips retro to Jan 1. Everyone was glad we were there; we even got a thumbs up from a road crew…now how did they know we were tourists?? We noticed that Heritage Villa on T was closed, as was Drakes on Mosquito Island.<br><br>TAXI rates; having now seen the rate sheet, I would only add that if you are on a budget, settle the rate in advance; as you may know, there are signed taxis and then there are apparently independent taxis…nothing wrong with trying to make a living but the rates are not always as posted on the list on bviwelcome.<br><br>ATMS - there are a lot more on T but on Monday at noon, several were out of cash so we went back to the old standby, the bank across from the ferry in Roadtown.<br><br>CELL PHONE - used my AT&T phone directly from CGB to Boston. I'll wait and see what 2:18 minutes cost when the bill comes in!<br><br>CAR RENTALS - I suggested that we really didn't need a car the whole time we were there but that resolve flew out the window fast. We rented from Del's in CGB on T. We had called to have a car from Mahogany on VG and as usual were met at the ferry dock, did paperwork on the hood, and were able to drop it back at the ferry dock as we left to go back to RT . There was a 10% discount for payment by cash or check.<br><br>CREDIT CARDS - very few places don't take them but as others have said, they are charged a fee so we did dinners on CC, and cash for other meals and stuff.<br> <br>SERVICE CHARGES AT RESTAURANTS, this is sometimes tacked on, sometimes, not. Also, in the dim light, check if it is 10,12,or 15%. One place filled it in under the space for tax, so I crossed it out and wrote in S.C.<br><br>BURGLARIES - one occurred on the 16th in a villa at Trunk Bay on VG in the nighttime while the residents slept; lesson to be learned…$1000.00 was taken from purse and wallet in pants while the house had a safe. We were told that extra police had been called in from Tortola and we did see them patrol on the night of the 22nd and again in the yacht harbor parking lot on the 24th. Since it appears he only takes money, the speculation is that it is a person into drugs. Feeling is that it is only a matter of time before he is caught.<br><br>FOOD SHOPPING - we had decided at the last minute not to take food (we usually cook 1/2 of the dinners, eat out for lunch and buy breakfast stuff). I think I would still rather bring the usual jumbo shrimp and filets although they were available frozen at Ample Hamper where we stopped but only bought fresh ground coffee. We shopped at Riteway in town on T, and at Bucks on VG (now moved from next to the Bath and Turtle into the old Little Dix Commissary spot) and both had everything you could have wanted right down to the Milano cookies at Riteway. We bought fresh-cut Delmonico ribeye steaks for $7.99 lb and fresh veggies. Both had fresher veggies than I previously recall, and better selection: lettuce other than just Romaine, tomatoes, <br>mushrooms, sugar snap peas, etc. I do love to cook and was seriously in need of a stove fix.<br><br>EATING OUT - On T, we had the best meals at Jolly Rogers (prime rib on Sunday and great rotis and burgers for lunch). Also the most reasonably priced. We also ate at Spaghetti Junction yum…Frutti de Mar, BVI Steak and Chop House veal chops, Myetts lobster, Quito's and Sugar Mill Beach Bar.<br>On VG, my favorite evening was at Flying Iguana with Puck - great food in a seafood mix and Duck by Puck. We also enjoyed return visits to Mineshaft Café (perfectly cooked swordfish and great ribs), Top of the Baths (fluffy banana pancakes) and lunch at Mad Dogs. We had lunch at Fat Virgin in North Sound and were really tempted to make a reservation at Biras (what a menu) but the drive back home after a few drinks and wine didn't seem wise. <br> At FI, I asked the man who requested that we "sit down and talk with me about what you like eating", if he was the "famous Puck', he grinned, bowed his head, and asked "what are they saying about me now!?" I told him when we left that "they" said he was a great chef and we agreed as well. What a truly nice person and great fun.<br><br>I really suggest reservations as well as most restaurants are small in size. Also calling ahead to find out if restaurants are open on Sundays (several were) and Mondays. On Monday when we were leaving, we decided to change our usual practice of ferrying to BI from VG, and spending the day at Marina Cay. Instead we swam at Spring Bay until close to noon, showered, and took the 12:30 ferry to RT where we planned to have lunch at Spaghetti Junction; it was closed, as was both Eclipse at Penn's Landing and Da Loose Mongoose on BI. You can see the path we were taking so by now we are out of luck and food except for some snacks from the Trellis Market. Our cab driver was so disappointed for us as we drove from place to place. Of course, we probably should have tried a few more places in RT before heading out to the East End…oh, well.<br><br>DRINKS - I am still convinced that the smoothest pina colada in the world (I've made this a quest) is the Copper Colada at Mineshaft Café on VG. A new fav could easily be the Mango Colada made by Puck…when he said hesitatingly, "I could make you a mango colada, I shrieked "mango!!" and nearly flew over the bar at him. (You have to realize that I eat mangoes the way most people eat apples…thank goodness for Chilean mangoes in winter!) It was heavenly so I shared my recipe of a "mango whango" with him. <br> By the way, ask "Jinx" Spraeve at Mineshaft Café to make a "Mineshaft cave-in" for a great show.<br>And a yearly paper just came out naming lots of "bests" esp. re: restaurants and so many of our favorites made it.<br><br>WONDERFUL PURCHASE - I had read about a stained glass artist, David Brockelbank and was able to purchase one of his small pieces as a wonderful and far better reminder of the BVIs than another t-shirt. Now I just have to decide which of three places I want to hang it!<br><br>SWIMMING AND SNORKELING - on T, we spent most of out time at Smugglers' Cove and Brewer's Bay, and on VG, at the Baths/Devil's/Spring as well as at Savannah. We dinghy-ed around North Sound, and especially enjoyed Mosquito Island. We walked the moonlit beach on CGB and watched the stars from the porch at La Cachette. We took lots of side roads, read a lot and also just relaxed.<br>Unfortunately our 2 excursion days pooped out…it rained all morning the day we planned to go to JVD and we finally bagged it around 12:30. On the day we planned to go on a snorkel trip with Dive BVI to the Rhone, the swells were high and the boat never filled; Robert was just as happy but I was more disappointed than he - the perfect reason to return, of course, but next time, I'll book it with a boat that will go with just two. So far the best snorkeling has been at the Dogs, Norman and a secret spot but I really wanted to do the Rhone.<br><br>CONTROVERSIES - Cable & Wireless and CCT Boatphone are duking it out in large ads about access to Internet service. Caribbean Basin Enterprises is refuting the raw sewage claim at Cane Garden Bay.<br><br>AND HOW ABOUT THOSE PATS!!?? I am not a football fan but watching the Patriots win in a snowstorm at home in Foxboro, MA while enjoying 80 degree temps at midnight (1 hour later there) was too great…the games was pretty good, too. <br><br>THINGS TO CHANGE - pack even fewer clothes, take paperbacks not hardcover, and rent the fins. <br><br>LAST BUT NOT LEAST, THE PEOPLE, always the best part of our visits, the incomparably gracious Malcia at LV, Tina and Valerie at Guavaberry, Jinx at Mineshaft, Puck at Flying Iguana, everyone we met,… how very hospitable, helpful, pleasant and cheerful you all are to those of us who are here today and gone tomorrow but we remember always your love of your islands and that you transmit that so effortlessly and generously to us, THANK YOU!<br><br>JudyG<br><br><br><P ID="edit"><FONT SIZE=-1><EM>Edited by JudyG on 2/1/02 09:07 PM.</EM></FONT></P>