<font face="Comic Sans MS">Rather than write a trip report that gives a day-by-day description, I thought this might be an interesting way to put it down on paper.<br><br><br>[color:blue]The Players and The Plot</font color=blue><br><br>Besides me (Jeff), there was my wife, Christine, friends of ours from the Orlando area, Joe and Karen, and friends from the West Palm area, Jeffrey and Marie. Additionally, my sister Jane, my sister-in-law, Martha, and their daughter, Marilyn, were aboard another boat. Our boat was "Johnny Be Good", an M510; theirs was a Lagoon 41, "Midori", skippered by Capt. Steve Surprise and crewed by Chef Stephanie Clayton. Since we were all arriving from various locales and on various flights, we agreed to use Lambert's as our base of operations and jumping-off point, as well as our last-night rendezvous. Everyone arrived on Wednesday, Feb 13 or Thursday, Feb 14. Boat Pick Up Day was scheduled for Saturday, Feb 16. Once on board, we planned to travel in a basically counter-clockwise rotation around the islands, starting at Norman Island. Johnny Be Good and Midori would day-trip on their own and meet up in the evenings at common anchorages. Since we had both repeat and first-time travelers to The BVI, we planned to hit some of the more well-known spots. A definite stop for us was Anegada, and we planned a lot of our route around that fact. Another must for us was Quito's on a Saturday night. We found that this was a pretty good way to create an itinerary without creating one, if you know what I mean. Just pick the spots you have on your "must hit" list and build your trip as you go.<br><br><br>[color:blue]Land-Based</font color=blue><br><br>We had decided to stay at Lambert's for a number of reasons. Primarily, they're near the airport, which makes for a quick trip after the flight. Also, we are able to squeeze some extra island time on the way back for the same reason. I love the beach and one of my great joys is getting out of the taxi, peeling off my shoes, and walking in the surf. The undertow can be a little tough at times, especially during a swell, so those of you with young children or non-swimmers should take note. If you're into body-surfing, it's terrific. They also have a h-u-g-e pool with a swim-up bar. The rooms are well-appointed, the a/c works great, and, if you don't use the a/c, the surf sound is delightful to sleep to. The only drawback continues to be the restaurant, which is spotty. We had meals that ranged from very good to adequate, at prices that should have guaranteed a high quality. The bar is run by Clifford, one of the finest and most personable bartenders you'll ever meet. Talk him into a Pina Colada with fresh cocoanut; it's wonderful.<br><br>A special tip of the hat goes to Leslie, the (Assistant?) General Manager of the resort. He has transformed the staff into a top-notch group of people, who are efficient, attentive and personable. When I think back 4-5 years ago when I first started going to Lambert, the changes are remarkable. We had a confusing set of reservations, with people arriving and departing on various days. Everything was correct when we arrived; there were no lost reservations, all deposits had been properly applied, and check-in and check-out were seamless. As a side note...their primary taxi driver is Bob - use him if possible. He's a lot of fun and takes very good care of his fares.<br><br><br>[color:blue]Restaurants</font color=blue><br><br>I'll cover these in the order that we visited them.<br><br>Lambert's Beach<br>As described above, this restaurant has a ways to go to achieve its potential. Its location is special, right on the beach, but it doesn't meet the grade in a number of respects. I found the wait staff to lean away from personal service, the wait for dishes to be slower than reasonable, and the quality of the meals to be iffy. Having said all that, no one got poisoned, no meals were sent back, and not one fight broke out. All in all, it's ok if you don't feel like travelling away from the resort; just go prepared.<br><br>Brandywine Bay<br>There are not enough superlatives to describe this outstanding restaurant. Davide and Cele have created a bit of paradise in paradise. The setting is spectacular, the service is impeccable, and the food is out of this world. It is pricey, but if your budget can handle it, by all means go. Don't miss after dinner drinks on the patio. I understand that Davide is opening a cooking school on Scrub Island. If this is so, then I'm sure Christine will be among his inaugural students. Now, if only I could get Davide to carry Strega...<br><br>Fat Hog Bob's<br>This is a fun place; lots of locals inhabit the bar. The food was good and the prices were in line. They offer music on some nights (we hit it on a Friday) and a small, but fun, dance floor. They had Lover Boys the night we were there; we've heard them a number of times before and they're always good. They got the crowd going early, with a lot of dancing and what can only be described as "movable sandwiches" on the floor. Try the ribs; they're very good. The lobster is ok, but there are better lobster meals to be had elsewhere.<br><br>Anegada Reef Hotel<br>If there is any way you can get to Anegada, make this a must. There is no finer lobster dinner in The BVI. I know plenty of other places (Harris' comes to mind) serve a fine lobster dinner, but nothing seems to compare to Lowell and Sue Wheatley's version. The price is $45/pp and is served with vegetables, potato and desset. The beach bar is always good for a Rum Smoothie and some great conversation. We always meet terrific people hanging around the bar...well, actually, we ALWAYS meet terrific people hanging around ANY bar.<br><br>Neptune's Treasure<br>We only had breakfast here, even though I always swear that we'll have dinner here "on the next trip". Everyone I know who eats here loves it and, if breakfast was any example, I can see why. Although we only had bacon and eggs, they were served exactly as we ordered them, the meal was prompt and the service was wonderful. Next trip...<br><br>Pam's Bakery<br>While not a restaurant, a mention of Pam's cinnamon rolls must be made. Do not miss them. They're everything Cinnabun tried to do. They sell out fast, so get there no later than 8am - they actually don't start serv ing until 8, but don't be surprised to be in a line. If you get there at 8:30, you'll probably be out of luck.<br><br>Big Bamboo and Cow Wreck Beach Bar<br>I lumped these together out of necessity; they're not all that different. Nice food at both, terrific beach bars at both, great setting at both. If you go to Cow Wreck, make sure you find Alex, the bartender/major domo. Ask him why he's called "A.B.A.".<br><br>Soggy Dollar<br>We actually didn't eat at the Soggy Dollar, but after a while, we started considering Painkillers as a major part of the 4 Basic Food Groups. This is supposed to be the birthplace of the Painkiller, so it's sort of like a shrine without the Shriners, if you get my drift.<br><br>Jolly Roger<br>Always one of my must-dos, the JR continues to offer one of the best experiences you can get. Louis has put together a place that not only offers terrific meals, but also a fabulous bar and, often, the best music and dancing to be found anywhere. I can't say enough about the service he offers. He's a restauranteur in the classic sense (think Rick from Casablanca, without Peter Lorre), and makes sure that all his guests walk away with a smile and the feeling that they got more than their money's worth; not bad these days. The night we were there he had the Bel-Airs, an oldies band, who were tremendous. They drew a huge crowd, with lots of ex-pats mingling with the tourists.<br><br>Pussers, Sopers Hole and Marina Cay<br>Think "Friday's" married to Bob Marley. The menu is geared towards the American traveler, with just enough Caribbean dishes thrown in for a local flavor. You'll not get any surprises here, either in a positive or negative way. I normally stick to the burgers and find I've never chosen poorly. Service can be a little spotty, especially in Soper's, but as long as they keep my glass full, I'm pretty easy going on food delivery.<br><br>Roti Palace<br>This is a gem. Located on a back street in Roadtown, it is run by perhaps the sweetest woman in The BVI. Jean only has seating for about 12-15, a minimal menu (rotis only, go figure), but the food is heaven-sent. We had the crab, the vegetable, the conch, and the lobster rotis, and shared between us. The price was $7-10 per meal and was worth twice that. I promised Jean I'd plug her new villa in Josiah's Bay, so there it is, Jean. You can contact her daughter, Marion, for further information. Unfortunately, I've misplaced Marion's email address, so if someone has it...<br><br>Spaghetti Junction<br>This restaurant is located right on the water, near the Cruise Dock, in roadtown. It's a lovely spot, and has a terrific bar attached, the Bat Cave. The food was pretty good, especially the seafood, and the deserts were wonderful. The only drawback we experienced was in the attitude of the owner/hostess, April. She had a bit of an attitude and was the subject of most of our dinner conversation. Some members of our party smoke and apparently there was a customer at an adjacent table who reacts badly to smoke. Rather than asking our smokers to refrain, she pretty much told them to stop smoking. When we offered to move tables, she got a "whatever" attitude. Compare that to the finer hosts, like Cele or Davide from Brandywine or Lou from Jolly Roger, and you'd see worlds of difference. Oh well, we all have bad days/nights; perhaps this was hers.<br><br><br>[color:blue]Charter Companies</font color=blue><br><br>We dealt with two different companies; Conch and TMM.<br><br>Conch, which supplied the 510, has been our charter company for about 5 years now. They are terrific people and are highly service oriented. I noticed a few more problems with the boat this year than we're used to. In speaking to the owners, I get the feeling that some of this has to do with 9/11, although in a way we might not have thought about. When business nosedived after 9/11, a lot of companies, Conch included, had to lower their employment rolls. Now that business is once again on the upswing, they are facing a short-handed situation until they can get through the various employment hurdles imposed by the government. Hopefully, this is a situation that will rectify itself quickly.<br><br>TMM, which supplied the Lagoon 41, performed almost perfectly according to my sister. The boat, which is only 1 year old, had a problem with one head, but TMM worked with Jane to rectify the problem to her satisfaction.<br><br>A special note about crewed charters: I've never before been on a boat that had a captain and chef; it was very impressive. Jane's trip was put together by Liane LeTendre of All-In-One BVI Vacations in Soper's Hole (bvivacations@surfbvi.com). She did an outstanding job and I wouldn't hesitate to recommend her to anyone. She matched clients, boat, and crew perfectly. Capt. Steve is very professional and knowledgeable and Stephanie is a quality sailor in her own right with the ability to create some magnificent dishes. Any of you who have been mulling over the idea of a crewed charter should take note: as Dudley Moore (in Arthur) says, "...it doesn't suck.".<br><br><br>[color:blue]Locations, Beaches, etc.</font color=blue><br><br>The Bight, Norman Island<br>We're probably the only charterers in the BVI that go to The Bight for the snorkeling, not the bars. We were moored about halfway between Billy Bones and the Willy T on a Saturday night. Never even went ashore. Believe it or not, there was NO NOISE from either place all night, even though we were prepared for a noisy evening. The Caves are on our must-do list, but be sure to get there early, as the balls get picked up quickly. We motored over about 7am, picked up a ball, and had breakfast before exploring.<br><br>Manchioneel Bay, Cooper Island<br>What is with this place? Every year it gets tougher to pick up a ball. We tried twice, once as early as 12:30pm and, after dawdling for an hour, gave up and headed out. It's really too bad, because Cooper Island Beach Club is one of our favorites, especially the conch fritters. The bar is a great place to meet new friends.<br><br>The Baths, Virgin Gorda<br>For absolute beauty, you'd be hard pressed to beat this wonderful spot. However, if the cruise ships are in town, look out. It's like a swarm of locusts descending on this little beach. We went well above the Baths and still couldn't avoid the crowds. Oh, well.<br><br>North Sound, Virgin Gorda<br>A very pretty spot (like what isn't down there?) and our normal jumping-off point for Anegada. The more I hang around Saba, the more I like it. Always a fun crowd. Never have eaten there, but there's always next year. Grab one of their balls and get 200 gallons of water, free.<br><br>Various Beaches, Anegada<br>Whether you choose Loblolly, Flash of Beauty, or Cow Wreck, you can't make a whole lot of mistakes here. The island just grows on you. It's peaceful and unspoiled. Reminds me a bit of Cape Cod 30 years ago. Had a chance to take a look at George's Lavenda Breeze. Wow! My sister is talking about taking a week there before summer. If you make it to Anegada, plan on at least 2 days there. <br><br>White Bay, Jost Van Dyke<br>The crowds have certainly increased, it's tougher than ever to get a drink at the Soggy Dollar, but White Bay is still one of the most wonderful beaches in the world. The water is always a couple of degrees warmer, a few degrees clearer, and the sand a bit whiter.<br><br>Cane Garden Bay, Tortola<br>Of all the places in the BVI, the one that has changed the most is Cane Garden Bay, and not for the better. There's nothing we have always enjoyed more than spending a day or two on this gorgeous beach and catching Quito in the evening. This year, the beaches were jammed with cruise ship passengers and the music blaring out of Stanley's loudspeakers polluted the environment as badly as the oft-rumored e coli. I also felt an undercurrent of, if not hostility, at least aggresiveness, on the part of some of the local men. I hope this was a mis-judgement of my part; I'd certainly love to hear opposing (or supporting) views. Anyway, I think in the future, CGB will be a cab ride in the evening to hear Quito. Beach time will be at Smuggler's.<br><br>Soper's Hole, Tortola<br>When Sunsail closed it base in Soper's, I was afraid it would look like a ghost town. Not so. It's still bustling, the mooring balls are mostly taken, and the scene at JR is as great as ever. Definitely worth a stop. If you're re-provisioning with Ample Hamper, be prepared to pick up some great tidbits, but at a price.<br><br><br>[color:blue]TTOL'ers and Other Friends</font color=blue><br><br>One of my biggest surprises was to learn how many members (although mostly not registered) TTOL has in the BVI. In establishment after establishment, people recognized my name and my TTOL cap. Nobody, however, asked for my autograph (or offered me a discount). One particular example that comes to mind relates to Davide at Brandywine Bay. He is a regular reader of TTOL and, I'm sure, examines posts relating to his restaurant closely. He and Cele were kind enough to seat Joel and Sue Kaplan ("Joel") of Philadelphia alongside us on Valentine's Day; they were a joy to spend the evening with.<br><br>While at Marina Cay, Christine and I were approached by a couple that we didn't know. I was pretty sure I didn't owe them money and it's been too many years for irate husbands to be interested in me, so we figured it had to be TTOL-related. Sure enough, it was Will and Terry Holmes ("WHH") from Nawlins. We had a chance to spend some quality time talking about all kinds of things with them and their crew-mates (Terry's sister and her husband).<br><br>After arriving at Soper's, I got a chance to finally meet Ashley and Laura Halsey ("Ashley") from Annapolis, who were there with their two gorgeous children - a thoroughly charming family. We later got an opportunity to meet the Halseys again at Cane Garden Bay.<br><br>On our last day at Lambert, Christine called me over to meet Al from Boston ("Albert"), who was there with his wife, Gail. Remember, Al, you promised a trip report.<br><br>Saving the best (?) for last, we met, on numerous occassions, Capt. Mike Kneafsey, the scourge of the seas. I knew Mike from a previous meeting, and I expected to run into him down there, so having him sidle alongside our boat in a dinghy was not much of a surprise. He had a terrific couple aboard as clients, Nelson and Linda. Turned out that Nelson was a college buddy of Ashley's. We continued to meet Mike at various anchorages all the way through Virgin Gorda, Anegada, and Soper's hole. It was great seeing him again; I'm only sorry Jen wasn't along (she's a great deal more interesting).<br><br><br>[color:blue]Clothes and the Zen of Packing</font color=blue><br><br>I've set a new record; 1 pair of shorts, 2 bathing suits, 3 T-shirts, and 1 Polo shirt - for 11 days at sea. Now, before you call the Hygiene Police, we took the opportunity to use laundry facilities wherever available and hardly anyone complained...although most people stayed upwind, just in case. I'm figuring next trip, I can just wear layers of clothes on the plane and leave the luggage home entirely. Women, apparently, have a slightly different attitude towards packing. Men, I guess, pride themselves on minimalist packing. For example, "I spent 21 days in Europe with just one change of underwear". Sort of like a badge of honor or something. The fairer sex looks at it this way: take as much as possible, but be sure you wear everything at least once. Christine's bag weighed so much that when I lifted it I thought somehow she had stuffed an NFL player inside. I'm going to work really hard on convincing her that clothes can be worn multiple times, even if it means that she appears in two different photos with the same outfit. Wanna bet on my chances?<br><br><br>[color:blue]Final Thoughts</font color=blue><br><br>Once again, the BVI leaves no doubt in my mind as to why it's my favorite place to unwind. The physical beauty, the charm of its people, and the recuperative powers of "island time" cleans my mind and rejuvenates my soul. Time to start another countdown.</font face=comic>