BVI Trip Report June 20-30 2012

Part 1—The Beginning: Trip was a bit convoluted since my husband’s mother passed away about a week prior to our leaving. Totally expected, but sad nevertheless. This meant that I had to cancel my plans to leave early to visit with my friend who lives on Tortola. We were, however, able to keep all our other plans intact after some wild airline rescheduling on our part.

We were 4 couples, all 60ish, one couple had been sailing with us several times before, half of the other couple had sailed with us once, and the other couple was a newbie, although the husband had considerable small boat experience and both had attended Steve Colgate’s sailing school.

The boat was a 4600 cat out of the Moorings. We have sailed that boat several times and are reasonably familiar with its workings and layout. However, we had not sailed for over 2 years (longest spell between sails), so I was a bit concerned both for the boat and for the new crew members.

We all arrived from various locations (us from JFK via AA, another from Arizona through MIA, another from San Francisco through MIA and another from Newark through San Juan). The two couples arriving through MIA stayed overnight at the Emerald Beach on STT since they arrived too late to get to Tortola. We all met by 5 PM at the Moorings, had drinks and were aboard by about 6 PM. All luggages stowed, husband checked out the panel, the systems, etc. Showed all how to appropriately use the heads, and showers. The obligatory lecture on water conservation was given. Unfortunately because of crossed signals due to our rescheduling of flights, our boxes with the supplies that we store on shore did not arrive. Turns out, we did just fine without them. Less to repack at the end of the trip. Why do I always take too much clothing? You would think I knew after about 30 trips!!!

Dinner at one of our favorite watering holes, the Pub in Roadtown (across from Ft. Burt). Great table by the water, great breeze, great view, simple and reasonably priced food.
Back to the boat for an early night and a review of the itinerary. We planned the following: first night, Norman, second night, Jost (Diamond Cay and the bubbly pool), third night Marina Cay, fourth night slip at Leverick, fifth night Anegada, sixth and seventh nights at Saba/Bitter End, and eighth night at Cooper. Boat back on the 9th day and the 10th day ferry from RT to STT.

Have to note here, the wife of the newbie couple gets violently sea sick and is afraid of boats, but this kind of a trip was a dream of her husband’s. I have got to say she was an incredible trooper and a great cook to boot!! Kudos to Barbara—Jeff, you do owe her Paris!!

Waking up the next AM, we realized that the AC on the port side of the boat was inoperable. While we “ladies” went off to provision the boat, the guys stayed back to do briefings and supervise the repair. Thanks to Julian Hodge who insured that it was repaired in as reasonably timely manner as possible.

Regarding the shopping, we do all our own provisioning except for water, soda cans, juices and drink mixes. We buy our wine and alcohol at Tico’s Pasea and the food at Riteway. We eat most all of our meals on board, including dinners, except for our grazing night at Saba. This time we also ate on Anegada, but more on that in Part 2.
We got our provisions stowed away and were actually off the slip by about 1 PM as we had scheduled and on our way to Norman for our first night.

Part 2—The Cruise: Julian helped us drop the lines and we were off. Motored out of the anchorage, past the commercial dock, headed up wind and pulled out the jib for the brief sail to Norman. Turned off the engines and nothing but wind and water. It was gorgeous. We headed up to Norman, grabbed a mooring (this is always “interesting”). I have a guy who has sailed with us before who we call “the happy hooker”. Most of the time he is great, but sometimes…..Anyhow, we were on tight. Decided, since it was coming up to cocktail hour, to hang on the boat, have our sundowners aboard. Watched a gorgeous sunset, had fabulous pan fried tilapia by the great chef, Barbara and watched the stars. Most of us hit the sack early, first days are always hectic. Up with the sun, breakfast (have to say something about breakfast—why the electric Mr. Coffee??? Percolator just fine and no draw on the generator—who needs all the fancy doo dads). However a fabulous down wind sail to Jost. Delighted with the new dingy dock and not having to schlep my aging bod up to the raised dock. Took a group to the bubbly pool—it was actually pretty bubbly for this time of year and we all had a ball. Hung at the bar, more adult beverages and relaxation, then back to our “home away from home”. Now the funny part about dinner—it seems that we were not given, nor could we buy the briquette little squares. Moorings provided bags of briquettes, but did not (and we did not ask) inform us that you needed lighter fluid!! Needless to say, we had none. Jeff became the bbq hero when he sat for at least 40 minutes fanning the flame (lucky someone brought the NY Times in their luggage) till it got hot enough to actually cook the chicken!! Yummy dinner—don’t know if anyone has tried to make faux French fries with thinly sliced yucca (also known as cassava). I discovered this years ago—absolutely delicious!!

Next day up at dawn—seems nobody sleeps in with the sun streaming through the boat!! Breakfasted, tidied up, off to Marina Cay—hopefully the store there will have lighter fluid!! Mostly motor sailed up wind but lovely anyhow. The weather so far has been absolutely perfect—we keep holding our breath and crossing our fingers, since of course, it is June. When we arrive at Marina Cay, Captain Bruce decides that he should give newbie Jeff a lesson in how to approach a mooring. It took us four passes before we were able to grab it. We figured this was because Jeff was just learning and not familiar with the boat systems---more on this later!!! Anyway, once secure, we made it to shore. Grabbed a table under the palapas, many lovely cool drinks, walk to the top of the hill for those who were not too lazy, dips in the water, just a picture perfect day. Many hugs and kisses at the store from the ladies who I have known for many years and much shopping also!! And yes, they had lighter fluid!! Back on the boat, a gorgeous cocktail hour and great burgers on the grill—piece o cake this time!! Next day, off to Leverick. Another great sailing day—we have so far been blessed with great winds (needed to reef main) and brilliant sunshine—not too hot either. I had communicated with Nick and we had a slip reserved. We all looked forward to showers, pool, shore power and typical Leverick hospitality. Well, here our first bogeyman showed up!! As we were approaching the slip, and my husband, who is very adept, suddenly realizes there is a steering problem. He has no steering on the port side. Thanks to his skill and the great slip work of Leroy (thanks a million, Leroy) we managed to tie up with out any damage to dock, human beings or boat. Once docked, Bruce tries to trouble shoot via phone, to no avail. Moorings sends a guy over promptly from Bitter End (now just to compound this, it is a Sunday) who ascertains that it is not the transmission, that we indeed have lost a propeller!! This immediately explains why Jeff had so much trouble last night approaching the mooring. Of course, since we sailed all day, we did not realize the loss till we tried to get into the slip!! The repairman called the Moorings and told us that it would not be till Monday till they could get a prop out to us. Oh well, it could be worse—of course we were at least at Leverick!! Imaging our total shock when promptly at 4 PM a chase boat with a diver and a prop show up!! Fixed within half an hour!! Kudos to the Moorings for their spectacular customer service on a Sunday! I guess Julian Hodge has put things right! Tomorrow Anegada!!!

OK understand, I had hyped Anegada to everyone—sharing my love for that island and my enthusiasm for the visit. Wouldn’t you know it, the one day of rain (and it POURED) was our Anegada day!! Cow Wreck is just not the same when you are soaking wet and huddled under the overhang at the bar. So sad. Also, although we eat almost every meal on board, I had convinced everyone to eat ashore here. Because of some of the good reports regarding Whispering Pines, we chose that over ARH where we usually dine. Well, I can say what a disappointment. The lobsters were small, not very tasty, not grilled but seemed steamed, the ribs were at best, warm, the swordfish portion miniscule and to top it off, they had no dessert which was supposed to be included!! I have since found out that the original chef has gone over to Potters. Wish I had known. Well, that is surely off my list. So, my wonderful planned Anegada day was a total bust—I guess it happens!!

We headed to Saba the next day where we spent two absolutely glorious days lounging by the Bitter End pool (one of the great deals in the islands—for $17 you get lunch, free pool access, lounge chairs, and all the dry towels you need). We always have a grazing dinner at Saba, munching on wings, calamari, conch fritters, fries, multiple drinks, trips to the shop and watching the sunset. We love this site.

Sadly we had to head homeward. Our last night was at Cooper. This proved a winner for everyone. We love the little beach, they have done an absolutely fabulous job with the renovations and the staff is just great. When I was in the shop, I got in a conversation with the lady there and was talking about the “old times”. She pulled out a photo album that she had found during the renovations and we had a wonderful time reminiscing about various ages and stages of Cooper and even recognized past proprietors. Great fun! Cocktails on board, trying very hard to use up the rest of our adult beverages!! Fish en papillot on the grill, and packing up—that is the sad part. An easy sail back to Moorings, gave a brief tour of adjacent islands before heading back in. The Moorings rooms are quite lovely, although I do miss the island ambiance of old—these rooms could be at any resort anywhere in the world.

Next day, uneventful trip home and now back to work. DIF already setting in and planning our next trip. It is hotter here in the NY area than it was in the islands and no breeze and I need to wear real clothes. What a bummer, but we will be back.

We did lose the AC on the starboard side mid trip but decided to not waste time on a service call. We found if we left our cabin doors open and turned on the fans plenty of cool air was generated. Other that that and the rapidly repaired prop, no problems at all with the boat. Sailed beautifully—hubby even said that he got it up to 11 mph on the GPS for a brief time one day. Also, hubby who always hollers at everyone to wear shoes and sailing gloves, he did not and ended up with two nasty rope burns, one on his hand and another on his foot!! Now on antibiotics for the foot burn—that was a bad one. I guess he will learn.

Wow this is really long. Hope you are not all terribly bored. No pics yet—awaiting them from our photog in residence!