This Italian trip (May 25-June 7) was a too-long awaited trip to a small town in the Valtellina Valley (Italian Alps) called Dazio, the home of my father's family as well as some of my mother's family. Both my mom and dad were born in Connecticut but my dad spent ages 6-19 there. He had returned 4 times during his adult life, the last time to see his elderly parents who lived to their nineties.<br><br>My travel companion was my cousin Sandra with whom I made a promise a long time ago to go to Italy. My husband's work also kept him from making the 14-day trip. She also speaks Italian which I knew would be helpful because although I can follow 90% of a conversation, I am not fluent; the northern dialect as well can be hard to follow. Interestingly by the second week, I found myself dreaming in Italian (go figure!)<br><br>We flew Aer Lingus from Bos-Dub, Dub-Milan; the service from all AE personnel was the warmest and most personal I have ever experienced but the seating was not nearly as comfortable as their AA partner in coach. On return, we flew British Air from Milan-Heathrow in the most comfortable leather seats in coach, then Aer Lingus Heathrow-Shannon, Shannon-Bos. By the way, Heathrow is the most HUMUNGOUS airport; put your walking shoes on, and get a cart if your carry-on is not luggable! We had the best itinerary we could do given that we booked just before the Iraq war broke out and at one point AA re-scheduled us to fly Hartford (Sandra's home airport) to Chicago first, then to Milan (no, no, no…)<br><br>We were met by relatives in Milan and driven along lovely Lake Como to Dazio, which is on a mountainside just above Morbengno. Dazio is made up of less than 40 stone homes; the walls are 12 inches thick and include fireplaces for cooking as well as modern stoves. Most continue to be multigenerationally occupied. In my Dad's family, since there were 8 boys (5 girls but they didn't inherit L ), each was left a room in the house; it has since been purchased by a cousin who has 2 apts, one of which he keeps for himself and one is rented. We stayed in a lovely 3-bedroom villa with marble staircases and floors owned by Sandra's cousin who lives and works in Switzerland. We spent 6 days there exploring nearby villages, relaxing, and catching up on family news with relatives vying for who would host us for lunch or dinner! Everyone welcomed us on our strolls about the town. Dinners were multi-course and wonderful. The views were truly lovely: mountains were dotted with tiny towns with the ever-present church in the center, and capped in snow. A surprise was the palm trees that grow there…because it is in the valley, the winter weather is not frigid and these palms have thick trunks with heavy matting on them. Not surprising was that everyone has an extensive garden (much further ahead than mine at home just outside Boston) and flowering window boxes abound. The busy season there is July and August when the relatives and tourists flee Rome and Milan for the cooler mountain air (Rome esp. has been likened to Washington DC in the summer, uncomfortably humid.)<br><br>We met up with my brother, his wife and another couple that had spent the previous week visiting the latter's family in France. They all stayed at the Pensione Coppa, the only hotel in town. One of our missions was to bring home to Dazio two mementos to the family mausoleum, a picture of Sandra's mom who died this past year and a written history of my Dad's life done by my daughter, which she gave to him 12 years before he died and later distributed at his funeral 5 years ago. Recalling the many times he told the stories and re-reading them on the plane led to such a feeling of déjà vu when I walked the streets of Dazio; it was comforting and strange all at the same time. I could visit the sites like the exquisite church were he was an altar boy, the mountains where he brought the family's animals to graze in the summer, as well as his home, and to meet people who grew up with him was so very poignant.<br><br>One day we rented cars in Sondrio and drove the Brenner Pass into Switzerland and "did lunch" in St Moritz. Most of the shops were closed between the ski season and the summer season, which was set to start about June 20th. We yodeled across alpine meadows, filmed mountain rainbows and played with snow. Another day we went to Lake Como taking the ferry from Menaggio to Bellagio. We looked for George Clooney on Lake Como (visiting his mom and "Nona" according to People magazine read on the flight over!)-no luck… In Morbengno, we delivered a letter to a cousin of a new neighbor whose family lives overlooking Dazio (small worlds). I was able to locate a copper polenta pot and a special long handled hand carved spoon to go with it, and added to my collection of kitchen tiles as well. <br><br>After 5 days, we said goodbye as my brother et al headed for Rimini, Florence, and the Italian Riviera before hopping the bullet train back to Paris. Sandra and I booked the train to Rome with loose plans to then head to Florence and perhaps Venice. The train ride was soothing and hassle-free. The countryside between Morbengno and Florence is very like Napa Valley, with vineyards planted on every possible spot or slope. Later between Florence and Rome, it looked more like large Midwestern US farm country with fields in lush bloom, only villas instead of silos.<br><br>In Rome, we did the usual tourist things for 2 nights, 3 days, including the Coliseum, the Forum, St Peter's (364 steps to the top after the elevator! and a very odd feeling in the climb as you list to the right as the stairs wind upwards where a the sign says not for the "cardiopathic"), the fountain of Trevi, Spanish steps, the Victor Emanuel monument (their unknown soldier), etc. We met up with cousins and went for the thinnest pizza ever, and toured some of the neighborhoods to get an overview of the city. Totally our fault, we missed the Vatican museum and the next day was Sunday-closed! But we struck up a nice conversation with a young priest from India who had just come from his meeting with the Pope and showed us the photos of his meeting.<br><br>In Florence, we saw "David" (photos no longer allowed but you can use a nearby 3D CD to turn him and zoom in on various parts; did you know that there is a cleft in his shoulder blade because the single marble piece of the sculpture was only so big) at the Academy Museum, ogled at the DeMedici museum grounds, saw the Duomo and its museum, walked the Ponte Vecchio, were tourists in the Plaza Narvona outside the Uffizi museum and missed the museum deadline (closes at 7 but doors close at 6:30, so we expected to return in the a.m. but it was a national holiday and the museums would be closed…I was bummed but life has twists we don't expect.)<br><br>Therein lies a story, the next morning with the museums closed; we decided to check out the famous marketplace, with plans to take the p.m. train to Morbengno. Completely unplanned and unexpectedly, my brother and troup literally ran into us…there we were, 6 crazy Americans, gaping, shouting, hugging and laughing. People around us smiled and a few clapped. It was too incredible, as they had not planned to be there until the next day. So we called the Hotel Globus where we had stayed (but checked out) who called the Hotel Oranca, where THEY were staying, which though full, recommended the Hotel Jane across the street! So we stayed one more day, went to the Michelangelo Plaza overlooking the whole city, had a great dinner together, and enjoyed the Oranca courtyard with drinks into the late evening. Then the next morning with the museums open again, I DID see the Uffizzi. <br><br>Back in Dazio, we visited some more, bought cheese and blueberry jam to take home, and said our goodbyes. We took the early train to Milan, went to the top of the Duomo, shopped and walked, stayed at a small hotel across the street from the train station, then took a bus from the station to the airport for the early flight home. (The hotel location was on a busy corner and it was noisy with traffic until we closed the windows and turned the AC on low.)<br><br>ACCOMMODATIONS: the hotels in Italy are rated 1-5 stars and the rating is posted beside the front door. In Rome, we stayed at the low budget Casa Kolbe between the Coloseum and the Via Venezia…this is a former monastery that houses Connecticut's Trinity College students for 6-week programs, and seems to have lots of tour groups. The rooms are dorm-like, plain with beds, desk, chair and night table, updated private baths and no TVs. Ours was overlooking the inner garden courtyard which bloomed with huge magnolia, palm and lemon trees. Breakfasts (coffee, bread roll, OJ, cornflakes and yogurt) and 4 course dinners were available for a very reasonable charge (wine available, too).<br><br>NOTE: in Italy, if your hotel says breakfast included, ask what it includes…it could be just coffee and bread as my brother discovered. In Dazio, we invited them over for a (Italian) ham and egg breakfast and listened to their satisfied "ahhs". And if you want American style coffee, you can ask for "Café Americano" or espresso with extra water. I have also become a convert to warmed milk in my coffee! <br><br>In Florence, we had no reservations and were going to try the Hotel Splendido (touted by Budget Traveler) but it was too far from where we wanted to be, so having chatted with a couple on the train who were headed to the Hotel Academy next to the Academe Museum (site of David), we headed there. They were booked but got us a room nearby at the Globus Hotel (3 stars) for the rate that Academy would have charged "it's your last room and it is 2 pm, do you want the business or not?", the clerk asked them (!) In Rome and Florence, there are small 25 room hotels on practically every block! The Globus had an ultra sleek black modern décor, generous towels, and heated towel rack, TV, AC and Internet in the room! The Hotel Jane (3 stars and across the street from the Hotel Oranca-2 stars-which had a small jasmined courtyard) had newly renovated very nicely appointed rooms (but no internet). At both the Globus and the Jane, breakfast also included fresh fruits and pastries, and was included in the room rate.<br><br><br>TRANSPORTATION: trains are in great shape, run ON TIME, and are comfortable. Note: it is not unusual to find someone in your assigned seat, and politely showing your ticket usually has them moving, if not at the first request, certainly at the second. First class, of course, is much more comfortable on the train as the seats recline and are facing forward…in second class, there are 2 seats facing 2 seats with a resting bar between you. There are also small compartments as well. Buses and trolleys as well as the underground metro ran smoothly and were easy to use. I was told you could buy train tickets for Italy at home from AAA.<br><br>THE PHONES: this was problematic because 2 phone cards did not work, and each phone seemed to have a different USA access code. What worked were our US landline codes, plus Internet access…there are lots of 1-room shops with about 10 stations, usually 2 Euros for 30 min. On our next to last day, there were one-page ads touting a new AT&T easy access code, which flew thru on first try. The Italians love their cell phones but they are discreet in public.<br><br>THE EURO: unfortunately for us, the Euro dropped from 1-1 the week before we arrived to 85cents on the dollar...one banker actually apologized to us. Full-service banks did not charge a transaction fee. ATM cards worked fine as well. Francs were given for change in St Moritz.<br><br>THE PEOPLE: everyone we asked directions of or chatted with was friendly, very helpful even walking out of their way to show us where to go or what to do… and tolerant of my Italian; when it got complicated, I let Sandra handle it. Since we Americans are apparently so well identified, a young woman did approach a young man in front of us in a ticket line and said (in Italian); "it's okay if I come in with you, tell them we are friends", Sandra was quick to politely respond in Italian; boy, was she taken aback. We met a wonderful gentleman in the dining car who regaled us with his round-the-world travel stories since his retirement; Sandra was flabbergasted to learn that notary publics in Italy do quite well financially! Seems we do it for a small fee here or even as a convenience but they charge big bucks there and have to take 3 exams. Things you learn.<br><br>SHOES: wear flats as the streets are cobblestones, and sidewalks are sometime things. But what is it with women's shoes in Italy!! 4+ inches high with 4 ½ of 5 toes in the shoe and a pointy 3 inches beyond that…funniest observation…a shoe store in Florence next to an orthopod's office!<br><br>THE TRAFFIC: Roman drivers are fearless; must be those rotaries (and we think they are bad in Massachusetts) but they do stop at intersections and crosswalks…I stopped traffic in Rome! The Vespas are noisy, the ambulances and Cabineri have those awful WWII sirens and night comes late (that's why hotels on side streets are preferred for quiet).<br>There are no SUVs (yea!), and lots of SMART cars, which are short 2-seaters…watched one driver park-and fit it-sideways in a too-short parking space!<br><br><br>FOOD: there are small shops on every corner that feature pizza, paninis (sandwiches), salads ("for the American women") fruit, drinks and gelatos (let's see, how many flavors can you taste in 14 days…?). You have to ask for your drinks cold and ice is not served routinely. Sitting will likely cost you more; just ask. Water is usually bottled and you need to distinguish between with gas (bubbles) or not. Orange juice is either fresh squeezed, or it may be a juice drink; ask for what you want. I was never able to get coffee to go (I simply did not want to go to a McDonalds). The food is FABULOUS! It must be the walking because I only gained one pound!<br><br>RESTAURANTS: in Rome, Florence and Milan, we ate at small family run places steps from our hotels, usually with the recommendation of the hotel staff and were never disappointed.<br><br><br>THE SIGHTS: any good tourist book will give you the highlights, which we pretty much did, but walking the side streets is fun and enlightening. Talking with people who live there was more than just interesting. There are beautiful courtyards you can peek into. In the museums, there are more "Madonna and Child" paintings by every artist you've heard of and then some. Every city has a Duomo (cathedral) and taking the tour or using the audiophones is worth the fee unless you have a very detailed book. No tourbook, except the ones published by the museums themselves, gives you everything. So for example, going to the museum shop first was esp. helpful before seeing the Uffizi Museum in Florence. If there is an elevator or stairs to the top, consider it…the view at the top of the Duomo in Milan was astounding, not only of the city but the architecture up close, the fascinating gargoyles and grotesques, and the statues.<br><br>FUNNY NOTE: after the Uffizi, I commented to Sandra, "enough with the Madonna and Child paintings!" only to return home to the appearance of a window image that some consider the likeness of the Madonna at the local hospital; so far over 50,000 people have flocked to it and the story has hit USA Today!<br><br>SHOPPING: we shopped at Gucci's, ogled through Versace, wrangled in the marketplace in Florence, really wrangled with the street vendors, and had a good time.<br><br>TOURISTS AWARE: you will not be allowed in most churches with bare shoulders and knees uncovered (this means no tanks or Bermudas). In Milan, Sandra decided to leave her sweater off when we went out and was asked to leave the Duomo. Voila! Judy to the rescue (and no more cute comments about my hat with its scarves) one long scarf makes a fine shawl over a tank top.<br><br>WARNING NOT NEEDED: hotel clerks in Florence and Milan cautioned us about pickpockets and we were careful; I even warned 2 Italians that their purses were open! There were women with infants begging in Rome and Florence but we did not see this in Milan or Morbegno.<br><br>WHAT TO DO DIFFERENTLY: <br>*Plot the day more carefully with regard to museum's hours of operation but then, missing the Vatican museum just means I have to go back!<br>*Check those national holidays and note the days places are closed more carefully. <br>*Buy a HealthyBag purse. <br>*I might forego the renovated old hotels for an older "antique" one, for the ambience.<br>*The retiree on the train said we "must see Naples!". <br>*Include Venice? <br><br>WHAT TO DO THE SAME:<br>*Given that the temperatures were "unseasonably" warm at 84 for late May/June in Rome <br> and Florence, and there were no huge crowds, I would go back in the spring or fall again <br> but not in July or August<br>*Wear sunscreen, a sun hat and flat shoes.<br><br>Overall, it was a grand trip, and so very memorable. JudyG<br><br>