Trip report of our vacation from 8/9/3 to 8/23/3

We had a wonderful vacation on SXM, our 14th visit in the last 16 years. The island looked great, and our resort, Flamingo Beach Resort, was in terrific shape, the best it has looked since Hurricane Lenny (1999).

Travel
We flew American Airlines non-stop from JFK with no problems. The flight down was over booked by four passengers (they offered a $400 voucher plus biz class on the 9:30 via San Juan); the flight back was full. Security was tighter out of SXM than it was last year, with more attention being paid at x-ray and random closer inspection of carry-ons at the gate. One of our pieces of luggage out of SXM was opened/broke into, or the luggage was so badly handled that the one-use lock was broken off, but nothing appeared to have been stolen.

Car rental
For the second year, we used Unity. We got a terrific car – 2002 Nissan Sentra – at a great price: $25/day with the 7th day "free."

Beaches
We only used our beach at Flamingo Beach Resort. Sand, sea, pool, umbrellas, palapas, and a beach-front unit with our own fridge/stove/blender/bathroom and two convenient beach bars (Flamingo and Marco's/Pelican), why go anywhere else ? (don't answer that)

Food, glorious food.

So many choices, so little time, and we decided to try some new places (at least for us) to boot.

Temptation. This was our favorite "new" spot. Located in the Atlantis Casino complex, near the "golf course," the setting is contemporary and romantic, and the food outstanding. For appetizers, we had a risotto special and the "seared sea scallops with sweet Asian style arugula salad with preserved red onions, roasted potatoes and rice wine vinaigrette." For our main course, my wife enjoyed "chili-sugar rubbed certified USDA choice Angus been tenderloin with herb roasted smashed potatoes, Argentinean Chimichurri, and Cebolitta" and I had the "rosemary roasted rack of New Zealand spring lamb served with spinach-cannelini bean-risotto, basil oil, and balsamic vinegar reduction." We had a nice bottle of wine during dinner and the pre-dinner martinis were outstanding. Dessert included a creme brulee sampler! Service charge/tip is clearly at the discretion of the customer, which is something we both appreciate and reward as warranted. Our total, including 20% tip, was just under $200.00. We recommended this restaurant to two other couples, who both raved about their experiences, too. Reservations recommended. Enjoy.

Spiga. We heard about this lovely nouveau Italian restaurant in Grand Case from TTOL, and we were not at all disappointed! Located on the Grand Case Airport road, this cottage-style setting was also very romantic. Appetizers included a buffalo mozzarella and tomato dish, and a grilled beef "carpaccio" (the beef is seared on the outside before it is sliced), and our main dishes included a risotto with lobster and a spinach gnocchi with black tiger shrimp in a white sauce with white trufle oil. Dessert featured a sinful dark and white chocolate mousse with raspberry grappa on the side. Our total, including wine, $165.

La Gondola. Again, recommended both locally and on TTOL, this Italian restaurant in Sandy Ground near the canal bridge is the real deal. Our meal included pizza, spinach gnocchi with salmon cream sauce, "exquisite" – my wife's term – lobster ravioli with cream sauce, spaghetti carbonara, shrimp risotto and a yummy dessert plate. $168/ 3 adults, one child. (Closed until about October 1st).

Splash. On Billy Folly Road, near the Atrium resort, some will remember this as The Village Baker. It is run by the same dynamic duo, William and Philippe, who had sublet their breakfast spot, but have now reclaimed it for lunch and dinner (closed Mondays). They have added a garden patio to the side of the gingerbread house, and offer terrific food. Lunches include pizza and burgers – and dinners supplement the lunch menu with the likes of grouper with pernod cream sauce, snapper provencal, and salmon with a spinach cream sauce. Some Asian-inspired beef dishes, too, and some killer appetizers (among them, tomato and mozzarella and spring rolls).

Antoine's. In Philipsburg on Front Street. Yes, they've been there for 25 years, and yes, this is the first time we've been there, but what a treat. Traditional French fair, including a filet mignon with a port wine reduction sauce!

We returned to a number of haunts, not least among them was Mario's Bistro. What can we say? Still our most favorite dining experience on the island. They have not lost their touch or step one bit. Every morsel was to die for. I just do not understand the (very few) naysayers. Have they tried the duck cakes with island chutney? Or the lamb with a reduction sauce? Or the cream of mussels soup? Or the duck breast with a reduction sauce? Or the seared tuna or the veal scallopini? Have they ever experienced this kind of a welcome and service from all of the staff at a restaurant? I think not. ($240/for 3 adults, 1 child)

Plongeoir. I hardly ever see this fabulous restaurant mentioned. It is in the new marina area of Marigot, just past the West Indies Mall. Terrific food – including an Asian plate appetizer and gratin de coquille St. Jacques, mussels and a veal kidney and sausage pasta dish, a baked Camembert with apple liquer and apples & bread for dipping, and a neat Thai fish soup – utu walu or something like that, it says "ask me about it" on the menu board. Do, and enjoy! $140.

Pressoir. In Grand Case. I didn't write it down, but it was superb (again)! My wife remembers the filet mignon with the Camembert, which remains on the menu by popular demand, and I had a rack of lamb. Yum.

Also — Layla's for lunch, Mary's Boon for Sunday brunch, Tutta Pasta for dinner (closed Saturday) and Le Bec Fin. And, let us not forget Don Camillo's in Marigot for a spectacular, last-night-out Italian dinner, where they made off-the-menu, mussels for our youngest son to enjoy, and he did!

Activities.
We sailed the 12 metre races for the umpteenth time. Lost by a few seconds after leading the entire race (aaaaaargh!). It is a great ride. Well worth the price ($70/pp + tip).

Crime.
This seems to be a topic of keen interest, so I will address it. We didn't get the local paper everyday, but there was one fatal 5 am shooting near a Philipsburg bar -- a local v. local (i.e., not tourist-related) that made the headlines. Hey, stuff happens. Some folks staying at our resort were aggressively begged by someone, in Grand Case near the parking lot we use to park for Le Pressoir (f*ing white b*ches), making in your face demands for money that left them quite shaken. The staff at L'Amandier, I believe it was, escorted them back to their car after dinner. When we parked there, someone approached us and said it was "$2 to park" then "$2 to watch your car," but I essentially ignored him. There is a fellow who "handles" cars near Don Camillo, who is much more personable & helpful and more likely to get my dollar then someone who is badgering and threatening (basically a shakedown). Other than that, no first, second or third hand problems to report. No problems driving through the Lowlands at night. We are of the school that you don't go where you feel uncomfortable, keep your guard up at night, and that the island is generally a friendly and safe place.

Shopping.
Two places I would point out. One is Deepa's men's clothing store – 122 Front Street. Off the main pier, turn Left (toward da Livo's/Antoine's/Wajang Doll). When you think you've gone too far, you are there. Shirts' by YSL and Rocha's. And, for jewelry, Royal Caribbean Store, in the same direction ( #86B), past McDonald's, and, at the Flamingo Beach Resort. We have always bought wonderful jewelry from Dinesh and his family. We always find some nice t-shirts and spices and the market in Marigot Weds/Sats.
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