This was my first time to the BVI....
Friday Night: Arrived at 11:00 after a harrowing day of almost missed connections. The two flights to Tortola out of San Juan prior to mine were cancelled, so we all felt lucky that ours not only took off, but made it all the way there! Kessler was at the airport to take me to the Lighthouse Villas, and gave me a warm welcome and informative tour through the dark of the island. At Lighthouse, Malcia was up to greet me (she had called me on Kessler’s cell in the cab on the way to be sure I was all right!), and had cheese and crackers and a Carib waiting in my villa. #4 was wonderful, light and spacious with a perfect view of CGB. Went to sleep with the music from Quito’s and the sound of the waves drifting up through the balcony doors.
Saturday: Lazy day – walked the crescent of CGB, had a fine breakfast at Rhymer’s. Explored the cemetery, stocked up on food, rum, and champagne at Bobbys. On the beach across, from Lighthouse, lounged on a beach chair, watched the ships come and go, and letting the occasional rain make diamond-like sparkles on my skin. After a while, went to Myett’s for a Rum Punch, then to Quitos, where I played with Fitz Roy for an hour or two, and had dinner (a pretty good Chicken Roti). Home to bed.
Sunday: Experienced driving on the island for the first time with the rental. It’s great fun, once you get the hang of the curves, and remember to honk. Drove up to Sage Mountain, and hiked the North loop trail, then the Mahagony Forest trail to the high point of the island. Amazing view. Didn’t meet a single person until I was well on the way back down. (Though I did meet several donkeys, all of whom were quite charming.) Decided to make my way to the West End, stopped at the Island Place, across from the Sugar Mill for lunch – excellent conch fritters – then on to Smugglers. Quite a crowd there, probably to be expected on a Sunday, but still a great place to hang out in the water. Continued on the back way (a 4-wheel drive road to rival the Colorado mountains) into Sopers Hole for a Carib at Pussers, and to shoot some pictures. Stopped at Long Bay on the way back for a walk on the beach, and met Antonio – we proceeded to the pool bar at Long Bay and closed it down (and then served as bartenders), along with some delightful people from everywhere on earth (especially Celine, Steve, Kelly and Recko)! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/dine.gif" alt="" />
Monday: Drove into Road Town via Joe’s Hill to catch the ferry to VG. Did alright with the Road Town drive, except for going the wrong way in the roundabout. It was bound to happen – but everyone was really quite nice about it. Took Speedy’s ferry over to VG, then walked to the Bath and Turtle for lunch. I thought I had read that walking to the Baths was an option from the ferry (and I like to walk), so I started out down the road, but after about 10 minutes, Isaac stopped to pick me up and take me the rest of the way. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/thanks.gif" alt="" /> Which was good, as that would have been one long walk. Didn’t hang out too long, as my charter the next day was scheduled to stop there for snorkeling, and I really just wanted to check it out on my own beforehand. The rock formations were astounding, and I spent some time just tracking the lizards of varying sizes through the smaller rocks on shore. Back on Speedy’s with a major craving for a burger <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/hungry.gif" alt="" />, so took the Sea Road to the West End and indulged myself most satisfactorily at the Jolly Roger.
Tuesday: Having discovered the route over Zions Hill and along the Sea Road, I’m sticking with it (no roundabouts), and headed for Road Town for a daysail with Patouche Charters. Never snorkeled before, never even been on a sail before, so it’s all new for me. I’d been in email contact with Joe, and had heard that they were good with newbies. Debbie and Clive took us out on Shawarmi – me and six other guests. It was pretty rough, so instead of VG and Cooper, they opted to take us to Norman and Peter Islands. Debbie did a great job of playing tour guide to the whole island chain. First snorkel was okay, but I got a little spooked at the depth, and I just wasn’t doing it right <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/drown.gif" alt="" />, so I went back to the boat and got some coaching and a Caribe from Clive, and we had a great talk waiting for the others. Next spot off Norman was better for me, I was more comfortable, and the third spot at Peter was amazing. I felt like a fish, and never wanted to leave! Swam with a pair of huge Hawksbill turtles for almost half an hour. What a world under there! Back up for lunch, and a nice sail back with a little rain – we came into the dock blowing the conch shells!
Coco Plums for dinner (love those mushrooms!) with Antonio and watched the softball game across the street for a while (I liked the rules – there didn’t seem to be any!). Then to Bomba’s to experience Full Moon, which was not great. Like a giant Frat party – everyone seemed to be standing around waiting for someone to do something worth noticing. But I danced a dance, and can say I’ve been there.
Wednesday: Spent a quiet day recovering from sunburn (I didn’t realize exactly which parts would get so much sun while snorkeling.) Walked CGB. Had breakfast on the balcony (bacon and champagne – can’t beat it). A little shopping at Sopers Hole, and a burger at Pussers, then spent some time at Long Bay and watched the moon come up over the mountain.
Thursday: Took the Ferry to JVD, then a taxi to White Bay. At the Soggy Dollar, ran into the same guys chartering from Canada that I’d met the day before at Sopers. Rented some snorkeling equipment and tried to out on my own – water was a little rough, but it was still wonderful by the reefs. Walked over the hill to Ivan’s, and just fell into bliss. The most relaxed place I’ve ever been. Hung out on the beach for a while, in for a drink, out to the hammock, in for a drink, out to the beach, another drink with Tal, <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/Cheers.gif" alt="" />until before I knew it, I’d missed the ferry back. Rented a tent from right at the edge of the beach, and sat out under the stars for a long time, listening to the music from the bar.
Friday: Nothing like waking up early to the sound of goats and the ocean (and really strong coffee). Took the ferry back from JVD, drove to Brewer’s Bay to do a little more snorkeling (again, equipment that didn’t fit quite right took some of the fun out of it). Back to CGB for a last sunset and drinks from a beach chair at Myetts. Ran into Celine, Steve, Kelly and Recko again, which was great! Dinner at Elm Beach (great BBQ chicken), a little dancing at Quito’s, and a moonlit walk on the beach “home” to pack.
Saturday: I was in tears because I had to go. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cry.gif" alt="" /> Finished off what I could from the fridge for breakfast (goat cheese, salami, rum). Took some shots of the amazing flowers around the Lighthouse patios. Antonio drove me to the airport, and going home happened without a hitch.
General Comments: For a woman traveling alone, the BVI was wonderful. I felt safe the entire time, no matter where I was, and no matter how many (or few) people I saw, and didn’t restrict my movements at all in the interests of being cautious. Some would say that’s foolish, but I think if you don’t do something you want to because someone bad might be out there, then the bad guys have already won. “Invitations” from guys were made politely (you never know unless you try), and equally polite refusals were received good-naturedly. So a good time was had by all!
It was the best thing I’ve done for myself in years, and I can’t wait to go back – have determined that the best thing to do for my family and myself is to go every six months, so I’m already booked for November! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/pirate.gif" alt="" />
Got some amazing pictures I wil post soon.
"If I ever leave my husband, it won't be for another man, it'll be for an island." <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/Umbrella.gif" alt="" />
Amy
