We went to Rio de Janeiro in August to visit our son, daughter-in-law, and granddaughter, who are living in Rio. We flew on American Airlines, using FF points, which sometimes results in a less-than-ideal itinerary. Oh well, we managed!

With a very early-morning flight DEN-DFW, we then spent an entire day in the Dallas airport, waiting for the overnight flight to GIG. All went well on both flights, with checked luggage and minimal carry-on stuff. We opted not to leave the airport due to the rigorous security checks my husband always goes through, with two knee replacements and 3 spinal fusions. I swear he is going to travel naked one of these days to simplify the security screening! While whiling away the hours at DFW, we paid the higher exchange rate to acquire a small supply of R$, since the general travel recommendation from other travelers is to avoid use of any ATMs in the Rio airport.

After immigration and customs at GIG, we got a taxi out at the curb, agreeing on a fixed price for our destination in the Ipanema neighborhood. Our taxi driver was very friendly; he had a little English, and we had a little Portuguese. Blue skies and bright sunshine enhanced the drive; even in mid-morning the traffic was steadily heavy.

So here’s how we spent our 10 days in Rio – Ipanema beach, Copacabana beach, Grumari Beach, cold drinks at beach kiosks, open air fruit/vegetable/flower markets, the cog railway up to Christ the Redeemer (more on that in a minute), walking around the old Colonial area in the Centro, one rainy day spent indoors, an afternoon at a semi-permanent Northeastern Brazil market and festival with live music and dancing, sampling Brazilian food at a wide variety of restaurants, and a tour of the H. Stern jewelry production facility and showroom. I had not been aware previously that a huge percentage of the world’s gemstones are mined in Brazil.

We walked- we took taxis – we took public buses – we did not use the subway, only because the station closest to our son’s apartment is the end of the line and currently closed for construction of a further stretch of subway.
Although our August visit was in their winter, we had mostly very mild, sunny weather with some foggy mornings and just the one cool, rainy day. The weather did foil our Christ the Redeemer attempt though. We arrived in the morning with a reservation for the train, but it was so foggy the staff discouraged anyone from making the ascent as there would be no view. We did find out that our internet-purchased reservation voucher would be valid for 30 days – good news! We headed out for other parts of the city, and eventually the sun came out. When we could see the statue from downtown, we decided to head back over and try again in the afternoon. Sunny when we got on the train, and a fun ride up through the rain forest, but by the time we arrived at the top, it was totally socked in again: no view! We’ll try this again next time we go, hoping for better luck with the weather.

We tried a weigh-your-plate restaurant called The Line in the Colonial district – fun! Great buffet of a wide variety of Brazilian dishes. It was packed with locals – we watched others to figure out the system and had a great lunch. We had a wonderful evening at a churrascaria restaurant in the Ipanema district (Porcao), and Banana Jack’s and El Astor were excellent lunch stops. Oh, and the Black Bar at Grumari beach, also very good food at an outdoor table overlooking the sand and surf. Cafezeina for breakfast one morning – way too much food but very good.

The traffic in Rio is just awful – I would not advise renting a car and doing your own driving. I mean, seriously awful. On our drive back to GIG, the traffic on the highways moved so slowly that there were walking vendors between the lanes of cars selling snacks, clearly a nightly occurrence. And the flight crew for our flight to MIA was an hour late arriving at the airport due to the traffic! You would think they would be accustomed to dealing with it. So we were quite late taking off; no boarding could begin until the flight crew was on board and ready for us. Despite a late arrival in MIA, and an unbelievable wait in immigration, American Airlines was very helpful to get us to our connection, and the rest of our travel day back to Denver went smoothly.

We are planning a return to Rio next May, not for the World Cup, but for another family visit, to include forays further afield in Brazil, as well as further explorations in Rio.