Trip Report March 2023

We go to St Maarten for a couple key reasons, the people possibly being #1 but beaches and food are right there as well. St Maarten is where I learned to relax and find the ability to sit and do nearly nothing and be OK with it. MJ appreciates my being able to relax as that makes her trips much better and after all it really is about MJ!

I had a business trip to Savannah and we extended it to a week to also visit with a friend, so since we were already on the east coast why not make a trip down to the island?
My key employee also named Todd who runs my companies day to day operations and his wife Beth decided to join us after the Savannah meetings for the first week of our time on St Maarten. It was their first so we were pretty much tour guides for a week which actually was fun since it pushed us to expand from our habit places to places we don’t go that often. The weather that first week was just beginning to build up swells and piles of seaweed so that added to our adjustment of places to spend time at during the day. We went to Grand Case to Captain Frenchy’s early in the trip which was very nice, went to Karakter, Cupecoy and Orient also pretty early in the trip. After the visiting those four beaches between the swells and seaweed it limited the options. We tried to go Friars Bay Beach Club which is a personal favorite but they had seaweed piled about 3 feet high and 3 feet wide along the beach, so we moved on to Grand Case which had about zero beach so then went to Orient. Never in all my trips would I have said Orient was the least seaweed covered, calmest swells and only light comfortable wind compared to all the other beaches. So we went back to Orient but this time La Playa, then a couple days later went back to Orange Fever. Probably the most amount of time I have spent on Orient in a single trip in the last 7 years. Note that I prefer a bit more peaceful rather than active, still a working man so I want the relax time and don’t need people watching.

We stayed at Cupecoy Cote de Jardin, which is on the backside of a house across the street from Rainbow by the grocery. We had a 1 bedroom for our 15 nights and a studio for our friends for their 8 nights. The units are in a fenced back yard, there is also one other studio in the back. There is no view and that was a concern going in but it was so peaceful that it ended up not an issue. The units are very nice, kitchen and such with excellent house cleaning service including doing our laundry which was great since we were carry on including Savannah for business meetings. (I did ship back all formal clothing from Savannah). The laundry was not only done perfectly, it was ironed as well, best outside laundry I have ever used anywhere. I think you can find this place on Air BnB or VRBO, we found it through a friend who with out giving you her name is the nicest person on island and tends to hang out at Cupecoy. We would stay there again, MJ would probably choose to live there for many months especially considering the laundry. If you need contact info let me know in a PM.

Beach food –
Ribs and Chicken from Dany at Cupecoy were improved this trip, a bit more spice and this is something I can eat a lot more of than MJ but we were able to pick her up a sandwich from a deli or burrito from La Chingona the night before to hold her over until dinner. Even when there is no beach I can just sit up at a table and chill, easily my favorite place to hang out. We don’t go there as nudist I would add, we are textiles but we are as accepted there as anybody else and feel as part of the Cupecoy family and a great family it is.

Karakter – We went there in December due to iffy beach conditions elsewhere and enjoyed it, we had stopped going there for a few trips. Went back this trip and while the beach service was good the food and service up top was mediocre at best. Their hamburger is better than what they previously had but it just was not inspiring food. The place needs an overhaul of their menu, something that make you think they care, pretty uninspired place.
Orange Fever – Had not gone there until this trip, thought we would give it a try and glad we did. I like that the chairs are not tightly lined up so there is elbow room and chair movement options. Beach service is very good and the food is also very good. The staff all in all is very friendly and entertaining, losing Jimmy will be significant to them but hopefully they find a solid replacement.

La Playa – Very good, our guest are sushi lovers so they enjoyed it but when going back for our third trip to Orient their preference was to go back to Orange Fever. Still very much miss Bruno there.
Captain Frenchy’s – This place is growing on me, also like LTC and Sunset at Grand Case Beach Club but on our return trips to try those the beach was gone. Frenchy’s was good, both food and service. The beach on Grand Case is so nice when they have enough.

Our second week the swells got even worse so happy Todd and Beth were there for the first week. Our second week was pretty much Cupecoy sitting up top or on the rocks with a trip into PBurg for some DK Gem birthday bling for MJ.

Phillipsburg – Again we get into a bit of a rut, a comfort zone that we work to actually expand and have gone many trips with out even going to Orient or Phillipsburg, even have trips where we never go over the hill towards that area. This trip we made a couple trips into town, one with Todd and Beth and then a stop by from MJ’s Birthday for some cheesecake, champagne, and earrings. Deepti and Jeff are fantastic people to know, friends and stating again great people as are the rest of the staff there at DK. We had not done much in the jewelry department for several years but kind of made up for it in the last six months and they just make it easy, I could go on and on raving about them but will stop here. One last add, there is an added value to something you purchase while traveling from somebody you trust, a memory that is near impossible to replicate.

We also stopped by Gulmohar’s, Luxbar (across from Gulmohar’s) for cocktails, Juggie’s for spices and milk shakes and also tried out Krave which is Juggie’s son who opened up a small restaurant that specializes in burgers, fries and a few other items that also looked good. Juggie is a great personality, hard to believe that we had not been there until our Nov/Dec trip, that is a lot of years missed stopping by there. Fyi – Juggie’s Birthday is St Patricks Day, as is MJ’s and a few others we often see on island.

Dinners –
Lal’s and The Palms are pretty much our two regular places, even if just stopping by for a cocktail. We love the food, and the people. Two places I could rave about and have, many times.

Bamboo House – I sometimes hear others complain about the place for slow service and such, and almost every time I hear that, the person was there for an event night. I have not had anything but great service but have not been there for an event night, so my suggestion is don’t go on the event nights or if you do don’t expect great service. Very good food, great setting and again we have had very good service each time there. Valet is now $10, worth it to me but you can also take the shuttle like what most seems to do.

La Chingona – it is a walk up taco and burrito place near Fat Tony’s. It is not high brow table service, but it is the best Mexican food on island in my not so humble opinion and a bargain. Take it to go, or they do have some tables that you can sit at. We made several trips there during our two weeks, even if just to pick up some items for lunch the next day. Opens at 4pm.

Mario’s – Last trip there it was good, but not great. This time it was great. The company we had at our table was even better. We have talked to Deepti about going out to dinner for many years and finally made it happen. Earlier in the trip got to meet her husband Harry and her son briefly, unfortunately Harry was not able to join us for dinner but we still had a great time with Deepti.

La Rosa – Another night with a couple island celebrities. We met Sharon who is the undisputed Queen of St Maarten many years ago at a couple TTOL parties and we became friends. Did not actually start renting a phone from her for many years after we met. It like a lot of island friendships has grown and she and Mike are considered family. We also were joined by Kim, daughter of the famous Pat and John who we are lucky to know. Between Kim and Sharon there is so much history and stories about the island, and while MJ and I have passed the 20 year of visits mark we are just island juniors compared to these two.

Fat Tony’s – We had pizza one evening, it is good pizza. Also had lunch there one day, all was very good and I am sure we will be back many times in the future. Fat Tony’s to me is a comfort pub, nothing fancy but good and easy.

Bar Code – It is a place that I probably should like more than I do, it was convenient and the food is good but I go there more out of convenience than because I crave something from there. No complaints at all, just wish there was a hook that I could explain that gets me to go back.

Mama’s Porto Cupecoy – It is good food, another not great but good and I like the setting. I would like to find time to try some of the other places there. Too many places and not enough time, the official story line of visits to this island.

Kalatua – They do not normally have dinner unless there is an event and we were able to match up to one on March 16th. We had been there for a day in December, food was very good but didn’t like sitting that close to the ground and it is on he pricey side. This dinner however which included live music which was excellent was worth every dime and then some. Service was a bit slow, but we had live music and great company having been seated with Jeff Jhangiani and his group, so it just was not an issue at all. Add to that knowing they don’t do dinner that often and also to that it was a lot of seats and tables to service with a pretty limited seating window based on the music I thought they did a fantastic job. If you ever get the chance to go for one of these dinner events do it, worth it. MJ and I had the Filet Mignon which was very good, and others had items from fish to pasta type dishes. Not a complaint at the table. Cocktails were also excellent.

Looking forward to our November return!

Nice report. Sounds like you had a great time with the newbies. You having the same crao weather south of us like we are having? When you say Jimmy at Orange Fever is leaving I hope you don't mean JC.

Nice report. Good to know about the Kalatua dinners. That's one place I have yet to go and it's top of the list for June. Agree with you about Bar Code. I go there frequently as it's pretty convenient, but nothing on the menu jumps out at me. I usually have a special, and then are often quite tasty. Thanks again for the report!

Oh - you didn't mention your sail on No1SXM. Didn't you like it?

Thanks for the report. Good to run into you guys.

Yes we did go out on No1SXM, did a sunset cruise and it went very well. Pieter is one heck of a sailor, amazed by how much he did with out any engine power especially coming back in through the other tethered boats. Marian kept us in cocktails to where we not with out. Really enjoyed the trip and would recommend to others.

Scuba, global cooling sucks here in the PNW, there was hail on Sunday and I think we hit a high of 45 today. Best reason to travel south this time of year. It is suppose to warm up next week, we are going back south to Cabo in under three weeks to get another warm weather trip in.

JD, it was great to run into you (twice) and have a chance to chat. This is not our normal time of year we go to SXM so not in the normal crowd like we are in Nov/Dec but ran into a lot of people that we knew from online or had not seen in a while.

I am sure I missed a few other items and people, and sorry I am not the author like some are, I tend to just spew it out and see what lands with minimal edit.

Todd. Is Jimmy the same as JC? We had hail and snow on Saturday and Sunday too. Can't wait till May for our 4 weeks in sxm.

We had dinner at Mamas coupecoy with two other couples last week and i agree while food is not bad but serviceable it's not the best Italian, but then again we live near the North End of Boston and Federal Hill in RI and both are so good that we've never found any other Italian anywhere else to be as good.

I have no idea if he is also JC, guessing 30ish yr old with sandy blonde hair, lean like I wish I was. Worked the beach, not sure of the other key persons name we had as a waiter for lunch who sounded like Tracey Morgan and was just as funny.

RonDon, I have only had the pizza there, and before there at the location many years ago near Oyster Pond. It is always tough to beat what you are used to, pizza for us is much better in the Portland Oregon area than anywhere else we have been. Sorry NY and Chicago.

Thanks Todd. That would be a different person. JC works the restaurant area and is a hoot.

What an enjoyable read. I especially like your beach and restaurant reviews. Can you tell me more about Gulmohar's? I suspected it would be primarily Scotch & Japanese whiskies but based on reviews I'm seeing there are highly sought bourbons and rums as well? Reviews are mixed on price, comparative to other local stores. We live in bourbon country so can find much of what we want locally, but there's always that unicorn you're willing to spend more on I suppose.

I have found that Gulmohars prices are always on the higher side than others on Front St for the same product but his selection is better.

I am a Bourbon drinker and really enjoy Bourbon Country, visited several times and always looking forward to going back. Over the years I have bought plenty from Gulmohar's, especially different Blanton's that were not available in the US. I also really like the people at Gulmohar's, Vanita and Gulu have treated me pretty well over the years. I don't tend to bring anything back any longer from the island because prices have risen to near US prices and we are usually carry on so I am not going to check a bag just to save $20 or even $100 on liquor. I am also happy with my Eagle Rare and rums that I can pick up at local stores. We do purchase for consumption while on island. I think you really have to know the at home pricing before going if you plan on taking home, just like if going to Mexico and interested in Tequila. When I was buying and bringing back I only focused on items that I could not get back home, like Cuban rums or Blanton's Gold.

Liquor now is made in so many places, but as my brother states so well - "Vodka should be made in Russia, possibly Poland. Scotch from Scotland, Irish Whiskey from Ireland. Bourbon should be from Kentucky and Canadian Whiskey should stay the F*&% in Canada!

Cheers!

Thanks for the info. We will have to check it out for sure now. We'll definitely bring back some rums but I guess play it by ear on the bourbons. And yes, I agree largely with your brother's sentiments, although someone in North Carolina is now making sweet potato vodka and I'm not mad about it.

It's good!

The caption didn't post. This is made in Snow Hill, NC, from locally-grown sweet potatoes, just a few miles from our home.