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Trip Report - April 2023 (with kids) #299906
04/17/2023 10:26 AM
04/17/2023 10:26 AM
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 12
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AJOHNSTON19 Offline OP
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AJOHNSTON19  Offline OP
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Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 12
Thank you to everyone that has provided input to the questions I posted prior to our trip. All were very helpful, and I’m very thankful for this forum as there were many questions asked that I did not even think of and ended up being very beneficial to us.
I wanted to post this trip report as this was my first time in the BVI in about 10 years (I have been 5 times previously, my first trip being in 1996 at age 13). A lot has changed for sure, but much is the same. This was also our first charter with our son (7 years old) so it was a new experience having young kids on board.

We sailed a Lagoon 46 from BVI Yacht Charters. There were 7 of us – 4 adults and 3 kids (ages 6-8). Trip was from Tuesday, 4/4 through Wednesday, 4/12.

Tues. 4/4 – Arrived in STT from Newark around 11 AM. No rush as we knew the next ferry was scheduled for 2 PM. Made it to the ferry dock and enjoyed lunch at Petite Pump Room. Food was very good, service was fast, and we enjoyed getting to sit outside to enjoy the warm weather and sun. Smith Ferry (Bomba Charger) – a rough ride due to the waves and winds but made it to Road Town on time. Customs was fast and we arrived at BVI Yacht Charters around 3:30 PM. Enjoyed the pool at the Moorings and ate dinner at Charlie’s at Moorings marina. Kids were exhausted (as were we) so it wasn’t worth the effort to go elsewhere, but food was not great (pizza was burned).

Our friends had chosen to fly JFK to San Juan, then Silver Airways to Beef Island. Their first flight was late, had to run for their second, and bags didn’t make the flight. Luckily they did get their bags the following morning, after many phone calls and finally just waiting at EIS to check all flight baggage. Based on this, highly recommend a direct flight to STT and ferry!

Wed. 4/5 – A rainy morning. Waited for friends’ bags to arrive, kids swam in the pool while I was chilly(!) poolside in long sleeves and pants. Never thought that was possible in the BVI, but I have also only ever been in May and June. Was a bit disappointed by a non-existent chart briefing, and no one coming on our boat from charter company to review the systems. We did have a check-out captain due to a lack of catamaran experience – he took us out for about an hour, sails up, caught mooring ball, dinghied him into shore and were on our way to Norman Island. Caught a mooring ball no problem despite getting in later (around 4:30). We all swam off the boat, grilled burgers, then went to Willy T for an early drink. Kids were zonked at this point so one drink (well a few of our group chugged two) then back to the boat. Fun crowd though at Willy T even early.

Thurs. 4/6 – Rainy/windy/cool day. Was able to get a BoatyBall at Cooper, so we beat up there in the morning. Worst sail by far due to the weather, but by the time we got to Cooper, skies were beginning to clear. Last time I had been at Cooper in 1996 it was a beautiful spot, but nothing there. How times have changed! We enjoyed the beach and bar, and ate dinner at the Beach Club. Probably our best food of the trip. Views can’t be beat.

Fri. 4/7 – Out of Cooper early to head to the Baths. I have done the Baths a few times in different ways – 1996 you were able to moor and take the dinghy right onto the beach. Other years we rented a car, and this time we moored, then took the dinghy to the dinghy line, and swam into the beach. Swim was a bit far – kids all had lifejackets so were fine, but if my son was not as strong a swimmer it would have been nerve-wracking. No cruise ships so lucked out and had the place basically to ourselves! We all enjoyed the hike and path through the caves, kids snorkeled a bit in the caves and thought it was great. Beautiful sail up to Leverick. Enjoyed the pool and were there for the Beach BBQ. Had a great time and food was excellent.

Sat. 4/8 – Enjoyed a leisurely breakfast on board and motored over to Bitter End for another day in North Sound. Swam off the boat a lot, then headed to the Buoy Room at BE for lunch. Eh. It was fine, too fancy, food was just okay. Enjoyed the beach at BE, then back to the boat to head to Saba Rock for dinner. Saba Rock is a cool place but food was again just okay. I do miss the old Saba Rock way back in the day when it was just a casual beach bar. Bitter End is beautiful, but I miss the pool and it’s not as unique as it used to be.

Sun. 4/9 – Sailed to the Dogs for some snorkeling and lunch. Not many fish, but still beautiful. Sailed to Scrub. This stop was planned in as a break in case the kids had had it with the boat, could just walk off the boat onto the dock, etc. but I think the kids would have been fine without it. Was a nice stop – the swim-up bar was great, pool was enjoyable, were able to take kayaks out for free. That said, dinner was just okay and I likely would not stay here again just because it was a night that I would rather spend elsewhere.

Mon. 4/10 – Motored to Monkey Point for snorkeling. Saw a few fish but not much. Beautiful stop though. Had another beautiful sail to Great Harbor on Jost. Had lucked out with a BoatyBall that morning. Dinghied around to White Bay (a bit rough for me especially with the kids, but all went fine). White Bay is another one I remember from way back before all the people. It was fine, drinks are good, water and sand are beautiful, but I don’t feel a need to go back. Back to Great Harbor, went into Foxy’s for dinner. If up to me I would have done Corsairs, but captain really wanted the Foxy’s experience. It was fun, food was fine.

I have to say Great Harbor really felt like the “old” BVI. Every boat was partying and having a great time. In the mornings, we had several dinghies come by to sell things, everyone was laid back and happy. Just casual and fun. I think I would do two nights on Jost next time, one night in Great Harbor and one night in Little Harbor (still my absolute favorite!) and take the time to just relax, enjoy Sandy Cay and bubbly pool.

Tues. 4/11 – Sandy Cay for the morning. Probably the kids (and my) favorite stop. Have always loved it since trip 1 and it is still incredible. Spent a couple hours there, then headed back to Road Town as we had an early ferry the following morning. Ended our trip with painkillers in the pool back at the marina.

Wed. 4/12 – 7:30 AM Native Son ferry. Much smoother ride then going the other direction. Also got to sit outside which was beautiful. Big breakfast at Petit Pump which was just what we needed. Taxi to airport, beat the crowds there, then flight home.
Amazing trip! One of our main hopes for this trip was for our son to really have an enjoyable experience so that he would be excited for future sailing. He loved every second and is begging to go back so it was a success.

A few thoughts:
I was very much looking forward to a cheeseburger in paradise – no menu I saw offered a burger (except a fancy one, which doesn’t count). The food has improved greatly in the BVI, but I do miss the casual menus.
Leverick Bay hasn’t changed a bit – in a good way.
Didn’t know what it would be like having younger kids on board. They were old enough to amuse themselves for the most part, and at nighttime, we all enjoyed having drinks and chatting on the boat after the kids went to bed. The husbands did go into Foxy’s late in the evening and had a great time.
Next trip – Anegada definitely. Just didn’t have the time this year. And staying either pre- or post-trip in a hotel or villa.

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Re: Trip Report - April 2023 (with kids) [Re: AJOHNSTON19] #299909
04/17/2023 10:49 AM
04/17/2023 10:49 AM
Joined: Oct 2020
Posts: 23
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Andiamo Offline
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Andiamo  Offline
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Thanks for the report. We’re headed down in a few weeks a can’t wait… Quick question - talked to some friends that went down a few weeks ago and they mentioned that they had to make reservations for most of their dinners earlier in the day. In the past we’ve always just taken the dingy in and been a bit spontaneous about where we’d eat. Did you need reservations for Bitter End/Saba? Figure Willy T’s will be fine.

Re: Trip Report - April 2023 (with kids) [Re: Andiamo] #299921
04/17/2023 01:28 PM
04/17/2023 01:28 PM
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 12
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AJOHNSTON19 Offline OP
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AJOHNSTON19  Offline OP
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The only place we made a reservation was Cooper. We were able to get a table at BE no problem for lunch. Saba fit us in as well.

Re: Trip Report - April 2023 (with kids) [Re: Andiamo] #299926
04/17/2023 02:37 PM
04/17/2023 02:37 PM
Joined: Oct 2021
Posts: 160
Pittsboro, NC, USA
CarolinaSailor Offline
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CarolinaSailor  Offline
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Joined: Oct 2021
Posts: 160
Pittsboro, NC, USA
Best to make reservations a day before at Cooper and Coco Maya. Also if going to Anegada for lobster, reservations a must. Just giving restaurants a heads up is a good thing to help with their plannng.

Re: Trip Report - April 2023 (with kids) [Re: AJOHNSTON19] #299937
04/17/2023 03:45 PM
04/17/2023 03:45 PM
Joined: Jun 2020
Posts: 1,149
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MIDiver Offline
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MIDiver  Offline
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More than a day or two in advance for Coco Maya.


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