I can get a little verbose, but I like to try to share how I feel as well as what I do...for those of you going, enjoy as much as I did. For those of you just back, start the countdown again. For me, it's 149 days.'

Amy


11/12-13 -Red-eye from Denver to JFK, then onto STT. Arriving at St. Thomas was very nice, especially the Rum Punch lady, and getting a cab to the Tortola ferry was no problem, had just enough time to get a beverage and fill out the appropriate paperwork before the ferry departed. It was very choppy going over, which was fine, but we had to go below when it began to rain and the fuel smell was pretty overpowering. It was good to get off at West End. From an arrival standpoint, it was easier than flying through SJU to EIS.

Caught a ride to CGB with OneLove, Malcia’s godson – very sweet – and home to Lighthouse for just one night. But it was like coming home, to the same room I had in May. The swells had been huge for the past few days – the end of the dinghy dock was completely submerged, and the waves were generating giant splashbacks from the sea wall. Took a walk, took some pictures. Quito’s is indeed under serious construction. I was glad to see that all the guys who work there, like Fitz, are working on the construction, and not out of jobs until it’s complete! As has been mentioned elsewhere, it would be an island miracle to have it completed and opened by 11/27, but you never know. Picked up some supplies at Bobby’s – what a wonderful asset to CGB.

Met up with Buddy (another TTOLer) for drinks at Myett’s and then onto dinner at Palms Delight. The gingerwine chicken was good, the johnnycake was excellent and the company was wonderful. The table right by the water came complete with a black and white tuxedo cat curled up on the rocks, waiting for tidbits.

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11/14 - Awoke to a double rainbow over CGB. A lovely morning walk along the beach, and nice visits with nice folks. Had a peek at one of the rooms at Myett’s, which was quite pleasant, with a bathtub (now there’s something you don’t see every day in the islands!), and a small balcony that felt like it was in the middle of the jungle. Good room for the price, if you don’t mind not necessarily having a view of the sea. Took a walk down to look at Callwood’s, which seems like something dropped into the rain forest out of some Scottish outer island.

Cab to WE to catch the Paradise Express over to JVD. Really big swells made riding on top fun. Jim from Sandcastle was coincidentally there to pick up a bag for a guest, and so he drove me up as well. My room wasn’t quite ready, but Claire and KC made me at home at the bar. Spent a while talking Sandy chartering with husband from Connecticut.

I had only had drinks at Soggy Dollar on my last little trip – staying at Sandcastle was a completely new and marvelous experience. The staff all make a point of learning the names of the guests, you don’t have to have any cash on hand for meals or drinks or the gift shop – my garden cabana was wonderful – cool breezes, an octagonal room with a big quiet ceiling fan, cool shower outside (just be careful not to accidentally lock yourself out). The honor system applies for guests after the staff leaves – just add whatever to your tab. If you have a special need, whether it’s duct tape or a quiet bowl of soup at the bar, they’ll accommodate you. The sound of the waves and the tree frogs and the turtle doves, with the occasional goat thrown in for good measure, made it difficult to sleep some nights, but only because I was so enthralled with being there. Dozing off and on until dawn when it’s time to go out on the beach and lime in the hammock and watch the sunrise is more than fine.

11/15 – Schedule for the day: dawn, breakfast, read, float, lunch, nap, drink, rain, dinner, bed. Floated on the turquoise floatie for a long time just being amazed that it’s almost the same color as the water. Met folks who come and go to the Soggy Dollar. For lunch, the “Wisconsin” Flying Fish Sandwich for lunch was awesome. KC is my wonderman. Painkillers were fabulous. This was a good day. Wandered over to Ivan’s and chatted with Ivan for a while. At Sandcastle, Oliver was in the kitchen. I joined Linda and Brian (also TTOLers) for an amazing dinner – cream soup, brie salad, ginger lamb chops, chocolate mousse cake. Alison showed me how to shut the bar lights down, since I wasn’t ready for bed after we’d all finished drinking and talking.

In the hammock, you could see a million stars – a couple of shooting stars followed by a flash of lightning. The water was as warm as a bath, and the breeze made my skin tingle. A perfect way to end an evening.

11/16 – Two sets of new friends left today, and I missed them. It was a busy day on what I’ve quickly found I think of as “MY” beach. Walked into Great Harbour – did a little shopping – had a burger at Foxy’s and was so proud of myself for remembering Monkey Feet’s directions about where to find his hat, so he can have a picture. Recognized a few other TTOLer memorabilia up the ceiling as well. Walked back and stopped at Ivan’s for a couple – had another wonderful talk with Ivan – he’s a very wise man.

I was so pleased to know that I could make it over the rocks in flip flops with a drink in one hand and a full pack on my back. Could that somehow be turned into a marketable skill?

New folks were staying at Sandcastle, and others were in from the boats and all were fun to hang out with. Had cream of broccoli soup at the bar. Traveling alone, I find that I get one night to be blue, and apparently this was it. But it’s one night, I never know when it’ll hit, and then it’s gone, so no worries. However, it did send me searching for trouble, which, well, what happens in the BVI stays in the BVI. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/Devil.gif" alt="" />

11/17 – Breakfast, then took a walk to Great Harbor. KC is ferry captain today, his day of from the bar. I walked on through Great Harbor, and didn’t feel like stopping so I thought I’d try to find the Bubbly Pool. I live in the Rocky Mountains and I like to hike, but THIS is a serious hike. Stopped to chat with some encouraging local folks along the way, stopped at Abe’s for a bottle of water in Little Harbor before tackling the humongous hill up and down to Diamond Cay. The view from the top was amazing, and Foxy’s Taboo sits amid the blue and green like a little oasis, which it is. There’s no signage at all, just follow the road, but hiking by myself down an unmarked muddy road with swamps on one side and a few dead goats on the other made me wonder about the wisdom of my choices. At Taboo, eight people were heading over to the Bubbly Pool. I wasn’t sure I wanted to go another step, much less with 8 people. So I had an amazing swordfish ceviche and a pale ale for lunch, and started back. At the top of the humungous hill, Taboo’s chef JF came along and gave me a ride back to Great Harbor.

Went through the delightful experience of mailing a package to the States. Postmistress Carmen is wonderful and accommodating. It was nice to be able to track the package from me to Carmen to KC to the West End.

Back at Sandcastle, run into the crew of the Minx. We have dinner at Ali Baba’s – BBQ ribs which are pretty good, and off to Foxy’s as they had such a good time there the previous night. Derek, who is also the nurse on the island, was leading karaoke, which just wasn’t what I was in the mood for, so it was time to head home. There were probably half a dozen Colorado folks hanging at the bar at Corsairs - that was fun to see some folks from my neck of the woods.

Having terrible trouble keeping track of my shoes. Could it be the Painkillers?

11/19 - A sad goodbye to another wonderful couple of friends in the morning. Had a great time chatting with Debby and a couple of ladies from DC and NY on a day trip from Tortola. In the early afternoon, made a successful attempt to get to the Bubbly Pool with fellow guest Paul’s and his rental car. Lunch again at Taboo – biggest burger I have ever eaten. Then the dogs led us and a honeymoon couple to the Pool. It’s fantastic. The surf was still a bit rough and at one point three consecutive huge waves sucked me back to bang my head on the rocks, so exercise caution, but it was all a blast. Having a million tiny bubbles on your skin is an amazing feeling. Back to the Soggy Dollar for more Painkillers – how I hate to leave! And so I didn’t – I did this same thing last trip – miss the last ferry. With no room at Sandcastle, I stowed my bags and figured things would work out – there’s always camping at Ivan’s like last time. Headed into town, still full from the monster burger at Taboo. At Foxy’s, there was Foxy! And there was dancing and more painkillers, and much more dancing. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/drinking.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/Banana.gif" alt="" /> My friends from the Minx were back and were kind enough to offer me an empty berth for the night. Much special thanks to Ken, Riz and Ted for making this possible. I’d never slept on a boat and was so excited by the fact that I was doing so, that I didn’t sleep well, but it absolutely didn’t matter.



11/20 – Sailing is wonderful. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/Tikotiko.gif" alt="" /> It would have been more wonderful were it not for so many Painkillers the night before on an empty stomach. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/Sick.gif" alt="" /> I am determined to learn how to do this sailing thing on my own. We sailed into Frenchman’s Cay, where the Minx will live for the winter. Lunch at Pusser’s. Pizza and Dramamine made me feel slightly human. I was planning on taking the last ferry to STT which according to the schedule was 5:45 from WE, but there was much discussion in the office that no one had ever heard of this ferry. Mike called the ferry company and was assured that there was one at that time, but leaving from Roadtown. The cab to Roadtown took forever and didn’t get there until 5:50. All the ticket offices were locked and the customs officer told me that there was no ferry to STT at 5:45 – that the last one was at 4:30. And that there were no rooms in town tonight. Best thing was to go back to the West End to stow away on the boat for another night. But boy, the whole ferry thing and a wasted round trip cabfare to Roadtown sure was frustrating. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cloud.gif" alt="" /> All in all, I guess I’d have rather had one more night on Tortola than a night on St. Thomas, though.

11/21 – Another night on the Minx suited me just fine. Took the 9:30 ferry to St. Thomas from WE. We all had to go through Customs at the Ferry and Customs again at the airport. I was to have stayed at the Crystal Palace, and one of the guys from the Minx was staying there tonight, so I went up to see what I’d missed. And to pay my most sincere apologies to Ronnie. It’s a beautiful place. Back at the airport, I never did put my shoes back on after security. Then the long flight home.

8 wonderful days that somehow felt like 8 weeks. That’s part of the beauty of island time. And two days back, I’m still on island time, my head is still in the clouds, and my skin still feels like it’s covered with a million tiny bubbles.


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