Trip report St John (and Virgin Gorda) April 21st May 6th.
Photos at:
http://kc.ytterberg.eu/Since English is not my native language, I do apologize for any wrong spelling or bad choice of words. Hopefully you understand what I mean anyway!
Left Sweden on Saturday and flew the 8,5 hrs to Newark. I did get the opportunity to sit in the cocpit when we landed in Newark, which was very interesting and exciting. I knew the captain and work for the airline we flew with, so that's why this was possible.
Anyway after a very long line through customs, we took the shuttle bus to JFK, as we were going to fly from that airport early next morning. We stayed at Fairfield Inn JFK, and I must say for being an airport hotel, this was the best we have ever stayed in. It was totally smoking free, had a good restaurant on site, nice rooms with very comfortable beds. Free shuttle bus to airport and complimentary breakfast. Everything worked perfectly. Recommended!
Early next morning we flew to St Thomas with American. It was an uneventful flight, with only a few bumps. One of the big difference between flying in the US and in Europe, is that in Europe it has to be rather bumpy before the captain turns on the seatbelt sign, and no one is allowed to move from their seat. In the US, the sign goes on as soon as there is a little tiny bump, but no one seems to care about remaining seated. Everybody moves around regardless. Just an observation;-)
We had rented a guest suit named Stairway to the Stars in Coral Bay (Upper Carolina). The very nice hosts met us in Cruz Bay and we picked up our car and were guided to the villa. We took the north shore road so that we could have a great view of all the beaches. The guest suit was very new and fresh, has a full kitchen with everything you needed, a lovely outdoor shower and a wonderful large patio/deck with fantastic view over Coral Bay. It did not have ac or pool, but was only $950 for a week in high season. A bargain. I am happy to answer any questions about it.
We did some unpacking and went to Lily's for some grocery shopping. We found most of the things we needed. Then it started raining. It rained that evening and we decided to eat at home and went to bed early (6 hours time difference makes you really tired at nights).
Woke up the next day and it still rained and we were a bit surprised. I haven't even considered it would rain more than a brief shower, as we have never encountered that before in the Caribbean at this time of the year. So we decided that we should take the car and get a bit acquainted with the surroundings. Drove to East End and Vies (closed) and checked out Haulover beaches and then to Salt Pond Bay. Had lunch at Skinny Legs and decided that now the rain had to go away, so we went home to pick up our swimming clothes and beach chairs and headed to Francis Bay. 10 minutes after we had arrived it started to rain.
After another rainy night and morning, we went to Cinnamon and to Salt Pond Bay on Tuesday. The weather improved during the day and we got a really nice day after all. Did some snorkeling at Salt Pond. Saw some fish even if the water was rather murky.
On Wednesday we went day sailing with White Wing and Captain Clark and this turned out to be the sunniest day during our week. Talk about luck. We were 6 people onboard and everyone was very nice. We had a lovely day and sailed first to Flannagan Island for some great snorkeling and lunch. After that we sailed to Lameshur bay and more snorkeling. We saw nurse shark, Spotted eagle ray, turtle and lots of other fishes. Clark was the best captain, very nice and laidback. He also took his dinghy and followed us when we snorkeled so that we could co further out and don't feel uncomfortable. If you needed, he would pick us up and he always kept an eye on all of us. This was very good, as I have a tendency to don't want to go far away from the boat without feeling uncomfortable. I don't feel that way when I am diving, but I feel more exposed when snorkeling for some reason. Anyway it was really a great day! We went to dinner to Shipwreck that night. Had a great mahi-mahi and I can still taste the delicious Key Lime Pie.
Woke up early next day and my back ached so badly and it was raining again. And today I was going to dive and continue my diving course I have started at home. I was genuinely concerned that I was not going to make it due to my back. I am not a person that normally has problems with the back and I was not sure what I had done. My guess is that it was from the boat trip the day before and when the boat leaned I must have holding on in a way that I stretched a muscle or something. Anyway I was not going to give up and believed that in the water it should not be a problem, but the thought of carrying the tank was were frightening. We should meet Colette at 6paq at Skinny Legs at 9.30 and finally they showed up and off we went to Haulover beach. We sat under the sea grapes and went through the theory and/or exercising we were supposed to do. It rained like crazy and everything was soaked. I felt very cold and my back was aching and I was wondering "what am I doing here"? First there was a couple where she had never dived and was taking a Discover Scuba class and he was taking a refresher class. Then there was a family of three where the mom and the sun was taking the Open Water Scuba course on STJ and then there was me, only doing the Open Water dives at STJ (all theory and pool practicing at home). I maybe felt that we had a little bit different exercising to do and it was kind of hard to know which instructions was for you and which for someone else. It first I thought it was me not understanding the language, but later I found out that it was several of us that felt the same. It didn't get better of all the raining and I can clearly see that Colette was a bit stressed out. But finally it stopped raining for a while and we went into the water. It was very murky and I am so glad I had all the practice from home, otherwise I would have felt very claustrophobic. Now I knew that I could manage breathing so I just took it very easy and tried to relax. It was better visibility further out and we did even see a couple of nice grey angels (I don't know why they are my favorite, but I Iove them). Everything went well for all of us, and the couple left after the first dive and the rest of us continued. And after the second dive, I was ready for the day.
On Friday we were going to do the final dives (3 and 4) and then I would have my diving certificate. We met at Cruz Bay at 9AM (my husband gave me a ride and then he continued to the north shore beaches somewhere). The sun was shining and it was very nice weather. Today it was just the family and I and they were doing their theory test and I was just hanging around waiting for Colette's captain to show up. We were supposed to go out to some of the cays outside Cruz Bay (Lovango or Mingo I think). The captain never showed up so Colette said OK, then I am the captain (she has a captains license so that would be OK). I took here to her boat, but it turned out that her boat motor had broken down due to all rain. She called her mechanic but he was in Pennsylvania on vacation. Talk about bad luck. Finally after a lot of alternative discussions, we packed us all into her tiny SUV, 5 persons, and all diving gear including tanks, and went to Kiddel Bay for the final dives. Since my husband was going to pick me up in Cruz Bay and would have no idea whatsoever where I was, we had to go to the north beaches and look for our car, so that I could put a note on the car window. Luckily we found the car on Hawksnest,
It was a rather long trip from Cruz Bay and the others had to do their last theory in the back seat (trying to not feel nauseous on the windy roads). The dives on Kiddel bay were absolutely OK and we saw lots of cool underwater topography and turtle, lobster and French angels etc. I had really looked forward to the boat dives, but I guess I was mostly happy about this happened at all. We all got certified and were very happy! If we had been forced to cancel it, I would have been very disappointed. This was not Colette's best week, I guess. I think she did a very good job during the circumstances.
After this we went to Trunk Bay and relaxed until 6.30 PM and then we went home and had our evening meal at Shipwreck again. I felt that I was worth another Key Lime Pie!! Scuba Diving Certification!! Yippie!! And I am 46 and so proud of myself.
Saturday our last whole day in STJ. Wow a whole day without a schedule;-) We drove to Caneel (do you know the word Caneel means cinnamon in Swedish, Danish and Dutch) and then hiked to Honeymoon, for some snorkeling and beachcombing. The afternoon was spent at Francis, and we even got a visit from an iguana, that suddenly came out from the bushes. He/she was so beautiful. And after that a couple of mongooses passed by. We watched the pelicans diving for fish and a large Barracuda patrolling the water. It was like Animal Planet in real life;-). Home and packing and get ready for the morning ferry to Virgin Gorda.
Sunday. Drove to Cruz Bay and I returned the car by 8AM when Courtesy was supposed to open (they said so 4 times
) and husband went to the ferry dock, as you should be there 30 minutes before the ferry departs to fill in all documents for customs etc. Did Courtesy opened 8AM? No at 8.20body had showed up and I left the car in the parking lot and rushed to the ferry that was going 8.30 direct to Virgin Gorda. Bye STJ here we come VG!
This was our first time in STJ, but we have been to BVI:s two times before. Overall impressions of STJ:
STJ is a very beautiful island with lots of nice bays and coves with beaches. I prefer lush hilly islands to flat, scrubby ones. I also like small beaches better than large. I don't think STJ did come to it's right, as the weather was not so good. We did not have time to go to all beaches or places we have planned and it takes a lot more time to feel that you have explored the island. We did however get a first very good impression, and I am sure this was not the last time we were here. I would love to do some more diving and snorkeling on STJ, so we will come back.
We just love the Virgin Islands and after STJ we had a wonderful week in Virgin Gorda, with a day trip To Jost van Dyke as well. The weather also improved during the second week. Virgin Gorda is our absolute favorite island and I will write a trip report of that part also (in a couple of days).
