This report details a trip Bonnie and I took to see our son who was studying architecture in the small town of Castiglion Fiorintino southeast of Florence, Italy. Since this was our first European exposure, we expanded the journey to include Rome, Venice, Florence, Nice, and Paris. We targeted the standard tourist locals and set out for a whirlwind two-week tour. Against strong recommendations to consolidate our trip, we decided on taking on the five-city itinerary, fully aware we would only get a quick snapshot of each destination. We decided this itinerary would give us a brief glimpse of several diverse destinations, which we would then pare down to a more manageable list…next time.

The trip begins, April 29, 2007
We began with uneventful flights from Kansas City to Chicago, to Milan, and then on to Rome. The lone noteworthy element was the experience of flying against multiple time zones. It is a strange feeling that must be felt to be appreciated, suffice however to say it is a thought provoking sensation when dark falls upon you, followed by sunrise an hour or two later. It probably goes without saying that this was our first flight on Alitalia Airlines, but I’ll state it for the record nonetheless. We found the food, coffee, and the complimentary wines to be some of the best airline offerings we’ve encountered.

April 30, 2007
We landed at Leonardo Da Vinci Airport, and with suitcases in tow, we anxiously step up to begin our first experience with a world of mass transportation options. We decided to take the Leonardo Express, which contrary to our guidebook, was at least on this occasion, late. We were quickly at Termini Station and looking for the bus, any bus, to take us to our hotel. We jumped on the first bus that had a steering wheel and diesel fumes, only to find we were headed further from our destination. We bailed off to cut our losses, and opted instead for the earliest form of transportation known to man. Looking back, the mile and a half walk served well to prepare us for the days ahead.

I had reserved a room at a small pensione, which I believe is roughly translated to mean “bare” in English. The Hotel Rosetta (www.rosettahotel.com) was located on Via Cavour, only a block from the Colosseum. I had intentionally selected the small inn for its location and price (€85,00/night). It was very central to all of Rome’s antiquities and we walked to every site on our list with the exception of the Vatican. The room was clean and quite sufficient, though the tile floor may have been softer than the mattress. The staff was simply outstanding, and that, paired with the central location, provided the two strengths of the hotel. We would not hesitate to stay there again or to recommend it to others. But don’t go expecting 4-star service.

We arrived on April 30, one day before May 1st, the national Labor Day holiday, a fact worth noting for future reference. We walked from our hotel on Via Cavour to the bus stop on Via dei Fori Imeriali, less than a block away, with the stated goal of seeing the Sistine Chapel. We had to see the SC today as the following day, Labor Day, it would be closed and we would be leaving mid-morning of the following day. As we turned the corner over our shoulder we got our first glimpse of the Colosseum, but we fought off the urge to draw closer. It didn’t take long before we started seeing some significant ruins. Looking past the trinket vendors into the excavations on our right hand side we saw the Forum of Nerva 97 AD, the Forum of Augustus 42 BC, and Trajan’s Market 110 AD. The Forum of Caesar 46 BC was across the street. This street, the Via dei Fori Imperiali , was laid out by Benito Mussolini and it connects Piazza del Colosseo with Piazza Venezia. It is quite awe inspiring to look over the area and realize that this is the place where modern civilization began.

We took the bus to St. Peter’s Square, and quickly found a hideously long line that we determined had to be for the Sistine Chapel. We joined the throng and settled in for a long wait. After about an hour and a half we had gone half the required distance…and they cut the line off. We took it in stride realizing we would be back to Rome in a couple weeks, so we headed to St. Peter’s Square. This was the first of many times on the trip that we would be stunned by the scale and magnitude of size. The square is opulent and massive. We took a number of obligatory photos and people watched the throng for a while. We decided to head back to the room to get rested and ready for dinner. Bonnie took a short nap and I walked down to the Colosseum to take the first of many pictures. After a brief rest we went to eat just a short distance from our hotel at Angelino di Fiori. Though I didn’t detail what we ate it was very good and we went back another night. We called it a day, albeit a very long day with the time changes, and headed back to get a good night’s rest. Tomorrow would be another long day.


May 1, 2007
We had quite an agenda stated for the day and we got started bright and early. After breakfast in a little sidewalk café, we headed to the Colosseum. The Collosseum (also known as the Flavian Amphitheater) is probably the most recognizable of Roman antiquities. It was commissioned by Vespasian in 72 AD, and opened by Titus in about 80 AD. It could hold about 55,000 to 80,000 people (depending on your source). The scale again was truly magnificent. I must say I do enjoy fine art and great architecture and this place has both. Be sure to find the stairs and get to the higher levels to enjoy the views. It was neat to try to imagine what it must have been like in its heyday filled with 50,000 spectators.

**Tip** Be sure to purchase tickets in advance via the internet. We walked straight past the waiting throng, did I mention it was a national holiday, to the group ticket window and we were second in line. The pass also covers admission to the Palatine Hill.

We walked past the Arch of Constantine 315 AD, and headed up the Via Sacra to the Roman Forum. Be sure to look down at the cobblestone road as it is still possible to see the marks made by chariots. This road used to be the route taken for religious and triumphal processions towards the capitol. We moved through the Arch of Titus 81 AD, and worked our way through the length of the Forum. The sites are too numerous to list in their entirety, but my favourites were the Temple of Antoninus & Faustina 141 AD, the Temple of Julius Caesar 44 BC, where Caesar was cremated, the Arch of Septimus Severus 203 AD, and the Temple of Saturn 498 BC. We then moved up to the Palatine Hill where legend tells that Romulus and Remus were brought up by a she-wolf. It later became the location of palaces to the Flavian emperors. Standing at the edge of the Faranese Gardens you get spectacular views of the Forum stretched out below. From the southern edge you get a great view of the Circus Maximus. Today it is just a grass field but at one time it was the largest stadium in Rome.

From there we decided to head north to the Trevi Fountain and the Spanish Steps areas. We walked past the Piazza Venezia and the Vittorio Emanuele II monument, probably the most recognizable intersection in Italy. Rome has more fountains than any other city in the world, FYI Kansas City, MO is 2nd on the list, but none is as notable as the Fontana Di Trevi. Our guidebook (Let’s Go Italy) says Nicolo Salvi’s work “has enough presence and grace to turn even the most sceptical, jaded jerk to a sighing, romantic mush.” Anita Ekberg made it famous by taking a splash in the movie "La Dolce Vita", but alas no one was swimming today. It truly is a spectacular fountain. The only problem is of course that every other tourist in Rome wants to be there too, and it was particularly crowded this day, did I mention it was a National Holiday? We tossed in our coins, took a slew of pictures and headed off.

We found that to move from one sight to another you simply had to find the crowd and either go with the flow, or swim upstream. We went with the flow this time, and after a few minutes we came to the Spanish Steps. This stop was so crowded it was even hard to see the fountain at the bottom of the steps. We did rest for a few minutes and watched the crowd. People watching is something my bride has down to an art form. We didn’t stay that long in the area because it was quite simply far too crowded. Next stop, the Pantheon.

We started swimming upstream now, and it didn’t take long to find the Pantheon 128 AD. Once again the victim of the holiday the Pantheon was closed. But we did walk around the exterior and tried to absorb the enormity of the structure. Bonnie sat on the edge of the fountain in the piazza while I took pictures. The piazza, like many, was surrounded by quaint restaurants and coffee shops. We then walked the short distance to Piazza Navona. This piazza is long and narrow in the shape of a rounded rectangle. Originally the site of chariot races, the Circus Domitianus is today very lively with numerous restaurants and cafes lining the edge. The center is dominated by three fountains, the most famous being the Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi (Fountain of the 4 Rivers) by Bernini. We stopped and ate at Gelateria Mariotti along the northern end. Bonnie had the spaghetti carbonara and I had the lasagne. Both were quite good and at this point the rest for our feet was a particular highlight. This is another great sight for people watching.

As we began to make our way from the Piazza Navona we encountered an unmarked area of ancient ruins. My guidemap indicated it was Area Sacra. The Area Sacra is where you will find some of the oldest ruins in Rome and where Julius Caesar was murdered in 44 BC. Today there is a cat sanctuary in one of the corners so there are cats all over the ruins. There are multiple temples on the site.

We then headed over to San Pietro in Vincoli (St. Peter in Chains). This church was just a couple of blocks form the hotel, and is the site of two worthwhile elements. Foremost in my book at least, is a statue by Michelangelo of Moses, and secondly are the actual chains that held Peter in prison. The statue was incredible, though unfortunately the lighting makes for poor photography. At this point we were thoroughly exhausted and headed to the corner of Via Cavour and Via dei Fori Imeriali for a gelato and a chance to rest our feet while watching the crowds. Bonnie took fashion notes. We went back to the room briefly, and decided to go see the Trevi at night. The lighting is fantastic and again with the romance. It was nice to sit and just soak up the surroundings. We highlighted a few places to visit on a full day back in Rome on our return leg, and eventually headed back to the room to pack and prepare for our next leg.

May 2, 2007
We awoke at a reasonable hour and got a reference from the receptionist for a great sidewalk breakfast. Nothing fancy, just café and croissants. We then made a quick dash over to see the Pantheon. Now when I say we made a quick dash, Bonnie insists that I stop and completely describe the magnitude of our dash. Using the GoogleEarth ruler the distance to the Pantheon from our room is 1.06 miles. We did the complete round trip, plus the tour of the interior, in less than one hour. My little trooper did a great job though. Today it was open and again the scale was stunning. The marble floor was of particular note. The intricate pattern was sloped to allow rainwater to run off the interior floor. After a few moments to absorb it and to take some pictures, we headed to the train station. We are excited about our first ride on the Trinitalia. Midday we arrive in Venice. This day to be continued…

Conclusion and some casual observations about Rome:

I would summarize Rome with one word: Awesome! The Eternal City is an amazing place and there was so much to see and do. After you have visited all the notable monuments, churches, and, piazzas there will still be much more to see. As we wandered among the ruins and monuments, it was nice to just grab a seat somewhere for a few moments rest and watch the crowds. There are great places throughout to sit and enjoy the fantastic Italian cuisine, the excellent gelato, or a great coffee.

The gelato BTW is a lot creamier in consistency compared to the ice cream we’re used to. It was exceptional wherever we found it throughout Italy, and we had it nearly every day. The biggest problem is deciding which flavor to choose.

The center of ancient Rome is not really that big and if you are in good shape you can walk through most of your itinerary.

We noticed there were surprisingly quite a few beggars around. There is nothing funny about people begging.

I’ve have heard horror stories from others that have gone to Rome regarding pickpockets so we were keenly aware. Keep an eye on your valuables in crowded places and you should be fine.

So I hate to admit it, but a few times we did catch the bus without a valid ticket. We were certainly not alone in this.

There is a lot of talk about Roman (and Italian) drivers being a bit…aggressive. Be advised it’s not just talk. We learned that if you just step purposefully into the road, and face the approaching traffic with a determined glare, for the most part, you should survive. Having said that, it’s still not a bad idea to keep and eye on the traffic.

What probably amazed me the most about Rome is the city’s long history. We live in a country where a particularly noteworthy historical relic is 200-years old. The history of Rome stretches so far as to dwarf it, and at times it may be hard to come to terms with the fact. I think I now understand why it is called the eternal city. I have always been a student of early western civilization but a trip to Rome really puts history into perspective.

To be continued...