May 2, 2007
We jumped on board our first train in Rome’s Termini station and were quickly on our way through the beautiful Italian countryside. The high-speed train made the trip in 4 ½ hours. We paid the extra €22,00 for 1st class and would probably have been quite happy in coach. The ride was smoother and more spacious than any airline.

We arrived at 3:30 and were greeted with rain…lots of rain, steady rain. It rained solid, but gently, all evening long. We however were not deterred. Arrival by train is at the Santa Lucia station, and as we stepped off we were awestruck at our first glimpses of Venice. It really is like no other city on earth. We stood at the edge of the Grand Canal for a few minutes and just soaked it in. Quickly finding a ticket booth we bought our tickets for the Vaparetto (water taxi) and were on our way to the hotel.

Accessing the #82, we headed to the Rialto Bridge stop. The Rialto is one of the more notable sites in Venice. Completed in 1592, this bridge was the result of a design competition, which included the likes of Michelangelo. Today the bridge is a hub of activity lined with shops selling jewelry, silks, and carnival masks. We stepped off the vaparetto, luggage in tow, and tried to sort our way to the hotel. We headed down a ridiculously narrow alley to a non-descript entry to the Residenza Ca’ San Marco (www.hotelcasanmarco.it).

Stepping into a small reception area we were greeted by Deborah. She was so incredibly nice and welcoming. My journal entry records “she acted as if she were an old friend awaiting our arrival.” We chatted for some time about the weather, our son and the purpose for our visit, friends that had recently been guests at the hotel, and her trips to the U.S. She then escorted us to our room. No lift here so all bags are toted up 3 flights of stairs. At the end of a long corridor she stopped to introduce our room. As she unlocked the door she announced, “This is not the room you paid for. You’ve paid for a standard room, but this room was available so we upgraded you to a Junior Suite. Consider it a present from the Hotel.” As she swung open the door Bonnie melted. This was the type of room you dream about in Venice. Everything was so richly appointed. From the upholstered walls and matching headboard, to the marble bathroom and the hand painted furnishings, everything was absolutely breathtaking. There was a small balcony that overlooked a narrow canal below. As she turned to walk away Deborah asked “Request fulfilled?” It certainly was.

It started raining a little harder now but we were not to be denied. We grabbed our umbrella and ponchos and headed out to explore. The Residenza Ca San Marco is centrally located between the Rialto Bridge and Piazza San Marco, and is again easily within walking distance of everything we wanted to do. We found a small café and grabbed a bite to eat. As we were finishing up most of the shops were starting to close up for the day. Drenched, Bonnie went back to the room for a hot soak in our Jacuzzi and I set out in search of Piazza San Marco. It was so grand and incredible that I went back to get Bonnie. “You’ve got to see this.” By now the rains had stopped so off we went again.

Heading for the Piazza San Marco we were as mice running through a maze to a slice of cheese. The “streets” were crowded with tourists all headed to dinner or to see one of the attractions. Everyone was completely unfettered by the conditions. At one end of the piazza was a young couple getting wedding pictures taken. Her white gown was completely drenched along the hem but they looked as if they couldn’t have been happier. The perimeter of the piazza is lined with shops and restaurants, several of which had small 4 or 5 piece bands playing. It was a very romantic setting. Back through the maze we headed to our room excited about what tomorrow would hold.

May 3, 2007
We awoke to a beautiful day of sunshine and warm temperatures. What a blessing. At the opposite end of the corridor from our room was a quaint little breakfast area. Here the hotel provided a great continental breakfast of fresh fruits, cheeses, cereals, sliced meats and pastries. Strong Italian coffee got us started and off for a full day of sightseeing.

Our first stop was the Doge’s Palace at Piazza San Marco. We arrived before they were open and got in the queue. It wasn’t long before they opened and the line moved very quickly. We shared the wait with a young single girl from Florida concluding a semester abroad as our son. She was near the end of her trip and down to her last €5,00. The entry fee was €13,00 and they didn’t accept credit. We paid the balance and told her to enjoy her day, we felt she needed to take the tour. She started crying. Pay it forward my dear.

The Palace was incredibly ornate and each room seemed to surpass the previous. The scale and grandeur again left me stunned. At the conclusion of our trip we would say this was probably one of the most impressive sites we visited. We exited the Palace and saw the adjoining Bridge of Sighs. This bridge joins the council chambers and the prison.

By now the square is starting to fill up and is a hub of activity. It was invigorating just to be a part of all the surroundings. There was so much energy and electricity in the air. We quickly jumped in line to see the Basilica di San Marco as the line didn’t seem too long. We toured the interior of the church and were again impressed by the ornate surroundings. In the 9th century the ruler of Venice, Doge Giustiniano Participazio, had this church built to house the remains of St. Mark, which, depending upon your viewpoint, were either stolen, or “recovered” by Venetians from Alexandria. As we exited the line was now hopelessly long. Our timing was impeccable!

Now we were off to get a bird’s eye view of the square from the Campanile. Bonnie was getting nervous and mentally preparing herself for an arduous climb to the top of the 330’ tall tower. Once inside we saw the doors to a waiting elevator. Her eyes brightened and her smile reappeared! The views were postcard perfect and truly worth the effort. After a few photo ops we returned to ground level. We returned to our room to lighten our load and put on lighter clothing.

After we had taken a moment to catch our breath we set out for the Gallerie dell’ Accademia. The gallery houses one of the finest collections of Venetian paintings. We toured for approximately an hour and then were feeling more hunger than anything else, so we left in search of a picture postcard café. Stopping in a nondescript campo, we settled in for a relaxing lunch and to lazily recall all we had seen this day. There was a young man putting on a show with marionettes for tips (FYI everyone it seems is doing something for tips). He was fascinating.

We then set out for some shopping for ourselves as well as the folks back home. We came back with a Murano vase for ourselves, a Murano wine-stopper for some special friends, a pin, and some great watercolor paintings. We then took the requisite gondola ride. It was great fun, and though obligatory, we really enjoyed it, €80,00.

After freshening up we headed out to dinner to conclude the evening. Were it not for an obnoxious German family at an adjacent table the evening would have been perfect. Tomorrow we head out early for Florence and finally get to see our son. So its off to bed.

May 4, 2007
We awoke early to take the 5:55 vaparetto to the train station. We met a young college student and her mother from New York. The ticket booth was closed as was the Rialto stop we were waiting at. A shopkeeper told us to go to the next station down, and sure enough the 5:55 was right on time. We paid on board and were quickly at the station ready for our short train ride to Florence.

Conclusion and some casual observations about Venice:

We totally enjoyed Venice. While it can be perused in a day or two, I’m ready for an extension of several days next time. The area surrounding St. Mark’s Square was a favorite.

We saw several people out walking their dogs and wondered aloud where they take them to do their “business”.

The people in Venice were very friendly wherever we went. Except for the prices, it was one of our favorite stops. We will return, and we will return to the Residenza Ca’ San Marco!

To be continued...