Ma Doudou break to replenish the memory cells.Wednesday
Breakfast was made up of anything we had left over in the fridge. Today is the day we booked for the Celine cruise so we spent some time packing up some things and my snorkel gear. But first we need to make a bling bling run in Philipsburg and DK Gems to make a pickup. The Celine was booked for 1:30 so we wanted to leave plenty of time so we left about 10:30. Went into Philipsburg and drove along Front Street for the first time ever, dropped “Herladyship” off at DK Gems...I did not want to park the car and leave it with things in the trunk, that’s my story and I’m sticking to it. We then drove further along Front Street and dropped Jim off to pick up his ring at Shopper’s Haven (?). Carmen and I drove around the block and then back down Front Street and picked up Jim and “Herladyship” in front of the Courthouse. The lack of delays left us some time so we went for an early lunch at Ric’s. Not wanting to go to sea on an empty stomach, herself and I both had one of Ric’s large burgers, these things are huge! We washed them down with a pint of Heineken and then went to Skip Jack’s to meet the Celine and the rest of the crew.
Celine Cruise
This cruise was arranged by Leah months in advance and is a new venture for Celine owner Neil. We wanted to do something different this year and this sounded like just the thing. We were not quite sure what we were in for but we were up for it. Hung out at Skip Jack’s while Neil and crew prepared the Celine. There were 11 guests on the cruise, no need for intros as we all knew each other. We set off and Neil’s crew member Nikki (sp) made sure that no one was dying of the “dry rot” by distributing beer and rum punches. We were also introduced to crew member Yvon (a fellow Canuck) who did general crew duties and as it turned out later, chef. We headed for the French side bridge as Neil and Nikki gave a commentary about some points of interest. As the bridge was going up there were young boys hanging on to the bridge and when it got to a certain level they would let go and drop into the canal, others were jumping from the road. Seemed like it was a local tradition to do this, although I am not sure how safe it is or if it is entirely legal. As we passed through the bridge I thought how nice is was to be the cause of the traffic backup rather than a victim of it!
We sailed out to Creole Rock off Grand Case where Neil anchored the boat. I have always wanted to snorkel there as I heard it is the best place on the island. I snorkel the reef out from the Perch on Orient most days and I am always amazed by the colourful fish. Some of us snorkeled while some just went for a dip or paddled around with noodles. The snorkeling was great and I saw some parrot fish, which I have never seen before. We were warned by Yvon about the sea urchins and he was right, I have never seen so many of them amongst the rocks. We had to leave to make the 5:30 bridge and on the way back snacks and drinks were served while Neil pointed out some points of interest along the shore, it does give one a different perspective of the island.
After passing the under the bridge we cruised around the lagoon and Neil pointed out some villas and which celebrity owned them (Kenny Rogers, Robert Redford, etc.), prices of villas and real estate, and most interestingly...local politics and laws (I equate this to the Abbot and Costello routine of Who’s on First”). Most of us have had the island dream of living on St. Martin and talking to people like Neil is a real reality check. You may be able to get on the island...but then if you leave, you cannot get back on. Or, you may have to leave and then apply return but you cannot get the paper work because that has to be acquired on the island??? Many expatriates are living in precarious positions.
After cruising (not much sunset this evening), we tied up at a small pier on Explorer Island in the lagoon. On the uninhabited island is a small beach where a bonfire was lit and a table and grill were set up. Yvon manned the grill and Nikki made sure our thirsts did not go unchecked. Dinner was served on the beach and consisted of Lobster salad, potato salad, green salad and Monster Steaks cooked to perfection...Yvon was a magician! After dinner we sat around the beach and talked, Neil was concerned that we were not having a good time as we were so quiet...the meal was huge and we were chillin’. I explained to him that we were Club O people and used to being in bed by 9, and by the way, could I borrow the rubber dinghy to take a nap in!
The boat was packed up and on the way back dessert was served consisting of ice cream and pineapple. We were unloaded at Skip Jack’s around 10 p.m. If anyone is looking for something really different to do, this trip is completely different and we enjoyed ourselves thoroughly. I think Neil is on to something here!
Back to Club O.
Thursday
Breakfast in room was made up of whatever scraps were left in the fridge.
We decided to take a drive through the Terres Basses area as we had not driven that road yet. But first we would stop in Marigot for a quick look around and shopping...this is my kind of shopping...the quest for Pyrat Rum!
We parked along the waterfront and walked through the market, another favourite thing to do but it was hot, hot , hot! Went into a large store by Vin en Rose where we checked liquor prices. I heard about Absinthe on this board and was anxious to investigate. They had it and a 26 oz. bottle was $18.99. The also had Pyrat Rum which was $35. “Herladyship” being the more savvy shopper suggested we try my favourite store Marek on Rue de la Republique. Marek’s is loaded with stuff and their prices are always good. Why do I not go there first rather than Philipsburg? Ma Doudou, breakfast of champions! A bottle of Absinthe was $12.99 and the Pyrat Rum was $26. I informed the owner that his prices were too low and he would have to raise them! He laughed and explained that his prices are across the board. Some other places will take something familiar to everyone, like Absolute vodka and price it at $5.00, but the prices of everything else is higher, the “lost leader” effect. I was hooked, I purchased the Absinthe. “Herladyship” also made a few purchases, the quality of the items here like hats, t-shirts, etc. is better than the average market stall.
Drove through Terres Basses and then Cupecoy...I was stunned...we had seen this area from the lagoon the night before but had no idea how bad it really was. Development was everywhere. I call it the “Rape of Cupecoy”.
We drove along the main road only to be caught by the bridge...a quick turn around and back to Club O for lunch. I found two wieners and some Gouda cheese hiding in the fridge and with a newly purchased French stick made some lunch, washed down with the inevitable Carib.
Beached and snorkeled in the afternoon, again my lounger would not see much action!
The dinner plan was Brasseries des Iles and I would get my Tagliatele Carbonara! It was closed! Plans would have to be changed. “Herladyship” was concerned about where the Gendarmes would be eating!!! We decided on the Talk of the Town Too lolos as a reasonable alternative. Service was slow, the place was crowded, however they were still hustling people in. I had the plate of food which was ribs, chicken and 3 side dishes. She had chicken breast and fries but it took nearly and hour to come. But, “ilsand time” and a couple of drinks added came to about $25.00. “Herladyship” suggested that since we saved money on dinner and were so “close” to the Dutch side that we might visit the Casino. What? Casino it was and we both played the Nickel slots to a draw at the Dolphin. Back to Club O.
Friday
Awoke early to say good bye to Jim and Carmen then headed to Papagayo with Bill and Linda for the Manager’s Breakfast. We thought it would only be right to attend as we missed the Wine and Cheese Reception on Monday (for reason, see Trip Report, Part 1, Monday, Search Word: Rhum Jumbie). The breakfast consisted of juice, coffee, mini-croisants and toast. The rest of the day consisted of beach, snorkeling and lunch at Baywatch. Another tradition is the Grouper Burger which I had, along with onion rings, just to make sure my cholesterol level did not drop!
This was our last night and went to dinner in Grand Case with Bill and Linda and Larry and Leah. We parked at the basketball court and went down the street to Bleu Martini. “Back in the day” we had frequented this establishment when it was Cha Cha Cha. A handwritten sign listed the type of pizza they serve and also the ever-popular 1 dollar = 1 euro. We walked to the other side of the building where we met Bill and Linda and Larry and Leah and we checked out the rest of the menu. It was a toss up between Brasseries and Bleu Martini. We decided to give something different a try and were led to the tapas garden at the back where there was also a full size bar. What’s on tap? Leffe (from Belgium). This is one of my favourite beers and have never seen it on tap so my destiny was set. Herself and I shared a Caesar Salad (not as large as Brasseries but still enough to split) and we both ordered Penne and Shrimp, again very large portions. Cannot remember what the others had but all were enjoying. “Herladyship” passed on the Creme Brule dessert, which is one of her favourites. The bills were presented and ours came to 50 Euro or $64...what?...the sign said...I told the others. Anyway, we decided not to pursue it as it was still good value for what we had, but would check the sign on the way out. The 1:1 was scratched out so my eyes did not deceive me. I cannot see a restaurant doing a “bait and switch”, perhaps they changed their minds during the evening...maybe at certain times...“Who’s on First”????
“Herladyship” bemoaned the fact that it was too bad we had gone to the casino the night before as she would like to go tonight...and since we were so close to the Dutch side. Huh? Since we both had not lost anything yet, casino it was and went to the Dolphin where she again played to a draw and I lost $20...had to save something for the duty free shops. Back to Club O to start packing.
Saturday - time to go.
Up at 6:30 and off to Baywatch for our farewell breakfast where we met Larry and Leah and Jessie, Janon and Clarissa. Traded some quips with Andy and then went and said our good byes to Bill, Linda, Steve and Pat.
Checked out of Club O with a promise to return next year. Took the “short cut” over the Cole Bay hill...this Toyota has some snot...not the average rice burner. Returned the car to Myra unscathed (we used about 3/4 tank of gas the whole week). We were dropped at the airport 3 hours prior to departure. This airport is brilliant. Check in with WestJet and went though security to the departure area. Massive improvement, the place is huge by comparison. Purchased my bottle of Pyrat rum which I had denied myself earlier...same price as Marek along with a 40 oz Mount Gay... $8.05! One of our traditions is to have a grilled Gouda cheese sandwich at the airport, however we had to settle for a something else as we could find one on the menus...things change!
“Herladyship” had to go to the smoke shack for a final one before boarding so I decided to go for my last one at the Rhum Jumbie bar in the centre of the departure area. From a distance I spied what looked like a Guinness Tap. This would be a good change as I love a good pint of Guinness. I ordered one. The barman took out what look liked a mini pint glass with a Guinness logo on and then proceeded to open a small can and dumped it into the glass. I felt like Gulliver in Liliput Land with this mini “pint” in front of me. My hopes of a decent pint of Guinness were dashed! What? 5 bucks!
Uneventful flight home and on time. Did I mention I love WestJest?
Toronto Airport was busy and we had to wait some time for our bags but my Ma Doudou was safe. Had to wait a full three minutes for the LINK train which dropped us at the long term GTAA Parking.
Observations
Best Stuff
Although we love the island dearly, the best thing is the people you meet, both old an new friends.
We really missed our friends and acquaintances who could not make it this year, however, we did raise a glass to you...OK more than one!<img src="http://www.traveltalkonline.com/forums/images/graemlins/Cheers.gif" alt="" />
No wet bathing suits!!! Club Orient, Baywatch, DK Gems, Brasseries des Iles.
Did I mention WestJet?
The weather was wonderful, only some short “sun showers”. Usually I am on the noseeums “gourmet list”, but this year I mixed the cream style OFF with 30 sunblock and applied it. Although I did get some bites they were minimal by comparison of other years.
The no parking outside the units at Club O did not present the inconvenience I anticipated. It is OK to drop off or pick up luggage, groceries, people, etc. and the lack of vehicles did add to the aesthetics.
Bad Stuff
The first morning (Sunday) we saw Gendarmes in a van on “Pervert Point” looking for trangressors who would dare leave Club O in the altogether. We spoke with people who were stopped and told they had to wear something on the rest of the beach. We did see people walking the beach nude in the morning so I guess it is hit and miss. “Who’s on First”? Orient Beach has changed...maybe.
Another wonderful trip...was it the best?...impossible to tell as they are all good and slightly different each year. <img src="http://www.traveltalkonline.com/forums/images/graemlins/pirate.gif" alt="" />
John (and Toddy aka “Herladyship” ) <img src="http://www.traveltalkonline.com/forums/images/graemlins/Umbrella.gif" alt="" />
