The Return to Paradise

Friday morning REALLY early, red eye from Denver to Atlanta and then connecting on to SXM. Flight to ATL was jammed, couldn’t understand why that many people wanted to get to Atlanta in the middle of the night. And to top it off, the seats on this Delta 757 had to be the ones the plane was put into service with; like sitting on metal straps. Flight down was on a much newer 757 and was not standing room only, so we were able to spread out a bit.

Made up for the discomfort pondering how excited I was for this trip. This was to be our (two couples) second land based trip on St. Martin (our first was a bareboat charter in 2003). While there is something to be said for heading to unknown places as we have before, there was a comfort of knowing where we were staying, the chance to revisit some familiar places and seek out some new ones.

Landing at the new PJIA was simply amazing. WOW, what a nice airport. Jetways, air conditioning, several immigration lines open. Retrieved our bags in lightening speed, met up with Lesley Bruce instantly and while doing the paper work, Craig with PackLight found us in the parking lot with our phone, chairs and umbrellas. I can’t say enough good things about these two guys and their level of customer service.

We had enough junk with us that we hired a taxi for the bags and three people while I drove the car to the villa in Terres Basses, Soleil Eternel. It had been a year since we had been there and I wasn’t certain if I would remember the way. NO PROBLEMS, like riding a bike! Benjamin, the amazing man that looks after things for the owners, met us at the villa, helped haul in all our junk, which he teasingly chastised us for. Tossed our stuff in the rooms and headed to the Super Marche just past the Sandy Ground bridge and loaded up on staples for the first part of our stay. That included important things like rum, fruit juices, beer, blue cheese, rum, beer, water, oh and there was some food in there too. Returning to the villa, unloaded the groceries, frolicked in the pool for a bit. We tidied up and went to Sunset Beach Bar for burgers and beers. We had a lovely time, watched the small planes landing after dark. Headed back to the car, where the only downside of the trip was discovered. Someone had busted out the small window in the back of the car. Nothing was taken as there was nothing in the car. (Every trip always has some glitch, we just shrugged it off.) Called Lesley the next morning to let him know. He apologized for it happening. With some cellophane wrap and masking tape, we closed off the gaping hole and were good to go for the rest of the week.

Saturday we fell right into ‘ILON TIME’ and did nothing but sit by the pool, swill vast amounts of blended beverages – each blender full a bit different than the last. My wife had the foresight to bring along a cheap inflatable beach ball which turned into a great source of entertainment for our stay. With some ribbon we found in one of the drawers, strung it between two palm trees and suddenly we had a volleyball net (of sorts). No rules, no points, just banging the ball around in the pool. Probably the best $3.15 we ever spent!

Dinner that night was at La Rose II a favorite from last year and we were not disappointed. Terrific food, nice service, killer garlic butter. Wandered into the casino for a little while, made a small donation and headed back up the hill to the villa and crashed early.

Easter Sunday was major island time. We didn’t leave the villa. After breakfast, we lounged poolside, soaked in the sun and played our mutated version of water volleyball. Lunch consisted of leftovers from La Rose II and it was just as good warmed up as it was the previous night. After well deserved naps (it is hard work relaxing!) caught some rays and pool time. Dinner that night was chicken breasts on the grill, veggies and more rum drinks.

Easter Monday our wives, with their McGuyver-like cooking abilities made rum soaked French toast with a home made syrup of butter, sugar and more rum. OH MY GOD was that good and we were all very thankful none of had to have a blood test after that. Later in the morning in a somewhat rum soaked haze, we went down the short hill from the villa to Baie Aux Prunes, a beach we missed out on last year. What a lovely beach, turquoise waters, soft sand. We dropped our chairs, cooler and selves down and let sand gravity do its magic. This was better than therapy.

After we came out of our beach induced coma, back to the villa for yet another round of volleyball and blender drinks. No one really wanted to do much so we headed back over to Sunset Beach Bar and kicked back for the night.

Tuesday the 10th it was a cloudy and a little rainy till mid afternoon. We headed to Marigot for some retail therapy and just hanging out. Bought cigars at La Casa del Cigarro in Marina Royal. Very nice store, kind gentleman. Wandered thru the market, had a couple of beers near the ferry dock.

Later that evening we went to Tabba Khady for dinner. Thanks to all who recommended this wonderful little ray of sunshine. This evening was to celebrate my wife’s birthday. Amazing food, terrific presentation, great service. They are magicians with food. Hats off.

Wednesday after shaking off the morning cobwebs, off to Cupecoy and parked ourselves near The Rock. Good rollers coming in, little bit of body surfing, more sand gravity and ice cold Presidentes from the cooler. Later that evening, we headed to Cheri’s Café and had a ball. Fun, relaxing, laughed.

Thursday we were off early for the 12 Metre Challenge. We did this last year and really enjoyed it. We are all sailors and there is just something about sailing on an America’s Cup yacht. We were really wanted to sail on Stars and Stripes (little bit of Dennis Conner hero worship here) and were fortunate to draw that boat. After the racing was over, heading back into the harbor, our skipper asked is we would like to take the helm. My friend and I jumped at the chance to drive S&S under sail. That was pretty cool.

Lunch at the Greenhouse was delightful, checked emails there and then headed out for some more retail therapy in Phillipsburg. It was pretty toasty and we were tired from the sail. Chose to head home after just a little shopping. Had dinner in that night, counted stars and made sure the blender still worked – it did!!

Friday, our last full day on the island, took us to Baie Rouge. Again, a beach we didn’t hit last time. A big, blew our minds beach. Tossed our things on the beach just down a bit from beach bars and promptly allowed that mysterious sand gravity to do its work again. Ate lunch at Gus’ with ribs and ice cold beers. I love places like this; if I lived on island I would probably become the “Norm Peterson” of Gus’.

Last dinner we decided to return to La Rose II and thoroughly enjoyed ourselves taking full advantage of the garlic butter, terrific meals, strong drinks and the casual elegance of this place.

Saturday morning we were all up early to enjoy the morning sun and one last round of mutant island pool volleyball. Met up with Craig from Pack Light mid morning to return our phone and chairs and the reluctantly headed back to throw dirty clothes into our bags. Lesley spotted us as soon as we turned into the parking lot at PJIA, took all of about 2 minutes to handle that! Checked our bags in this amazingly large AIR CONDITIONED facility and headed upstairs to the Plantation Bar & Grill where we were treated to a one man band complete with steel drum. Man, does this new airport make it just a little easier to leave.

The inbound Delta flight was a little late and our departure was delayed because of some fuel gauge problem. I fly a lot and never mind a delay when it comes to things like fuel! It did make for a hectic connection in ATL with the four of us just making our flight to Denver, but not our bags. Better on the way home than on the way out.

Overall, we had a lot of fun. Little traffic here and there, no biggie in my book. Other than the first night window thing with the rental car, no evidence of bad guys, but then again we don’t set ourselves up to fail either. Great food, a LOT of drinks, loads of sunshine and great weather with our closest friends. We really liked the villa we chose and that’s why we returned this year. The views from the top of the hill are breathtaking with clear lines of sight to Saba and Anguilla every day and St Kitts and Statia on the really clear days. Each evening the skies were painted by glorious sunsets that gave way to all the stars.