Friday, August 3 - Arrival
Drove to the Park ‘n Fly Plus about 7:30am, parked and caught the shuttle to Atlanta-Hartsfield around 8:00am. The security line was very long but they kept it moving. Took about 15-20 minutes at most. I had enough time to get a good ole’ Southern breakfast at Paschal’s before I walked to the gate. My Delta flight to STT was on time - nothing out of the ordinary. I have to say, while I love Spirit’s low fares, nothing beats a non-stop flight out of Atlanta! <img src="http://www.traveltalkonline.com/forums/images/graemlins/Joy.gif" alt="" />
The wait for baggage was about 45 minutes but I was too happy about starting my vacation that I didn’t mind. Of course, there were some who were not on ilon time as yet and paced around angrily. I just got myself a drink and chilled until my bags came out. I took a van to the ferry terminal and had a flying fish sandwich at the Petite Pump Room while I waited for the 4:15pm Road Town Fast Ferry to Road Town. This cat is definitely an upgrade from Native Son and Smith’s old clunkers. It was clean and air-conditioned. You can buy drinks on board and watch a movie (they showed Wild Hogs). And the ride was so much smoother. Since I was the second person off the ferry, going thru customs was a breeze.
First, thanks to everyone who recommended Maria’s. Your evaluations were all on the money. This was my first time staying in Road Town and Maria’s was the perfect spot. My 2nd floor superior room overlooked the pool and the water. I slept with just the screen door closed on my balcony so I could hear the waves at night. The room was spotless and I made fast friends with the maids, who were very nice. I didn’t get a chance to frequent the restaurant and bar because I was running all over town due to the festival activities but I did have a nice breakfast one morning. Everyone at the front desk was responsive and pleasant. Maria’s is definitely on my list of favorite hotels and will be my home next August.
On Friday night, my good friends, Sam and Kaletha, picked me up at my hotel and we went to dinner at Spaghetti Junction. I ordered the Frutti di Mare. I had them change the white creme sauce to a spicy red – it was delicious!!! <img src="http://www.traveltalkonline.com/forums/images/graemlins/dine.gif" alt="" /> We stopped in the Bat Cave to get in a few dances to the DJ music before we left.
We then headed to the Festival grounds to enjoy the International Reggae Night. At the festival, there were a variety of booths selling drinks and food. In the carnival area, they had rides for the kids as well as vendors selling all types of things. In the middle of it all was a huge stage for the entertainment.
That night, the headliners were Beres Hammond and Lady Saw, along with other local artists. The show was very slow that night as the artist line-up was not going smoothly. Beres Hammond was over an hour late taking to the stage. When he finally appeared, he gave a great show. I didn’t get to see Lady Saw as I was exhausted from the trip and ended up going back to the hotel to get some sleep but I heard I didn’t miss anything. The word was she was very raunchy and most of the audience was in shock at her X-rated performance, which was not appropriate for a family event.
Saturday, August 4
I slept in until about 10:30 PM. When I woke up, I immediately opened the patio door to gaze at the ocean and feel the sun on my skin. I had planned on making a trip to Cane Garden Bay that morning and see some friends until I turned my head to the left. To my dismay, there was a big ole’ Carnival ship docked at the cruise pier. <img src="http://www.traveltalkonline.com/forums/images/graemlins/cloud.gif" alt="" /> I decided to put my beach plans on hold for another time as I did not feel like dealing with the [censored] that day.
Since I missed breakfast, I got dressed and took a walk to Capriccio’s for leisurely lunch. In between eating my excellent pizza and reading Vanity Fair, I watched the people as they went by. Even though I sat outside, there was a wonderful breeze going through the patio of the restaurant. It was so incredibly relaxing after a tough week at work. As I was walking back to the hotel, I ran into my friend, Joseph Hodge, an artist who sells his paintings out of the Crafts Alive Market. We went back to his “store” and chatted for a while.
Kaletha and I met up around 4:00pm to attend the popular Capital Productions Car Show, which is run by my good friend, David Archer. The show featured a variety of cars, from vintage to the latest Bentley coupe. It was very well-attended. David hooked me up with some passes to the VIP room, which we were so appreciative. It was a very hot day and it was wonderful having delicious food and drinks in an air conditioned setting! I even got to meet the (former) Prime Minister D. Orlando Smith and his wife.
Later that night, I hooked up with my friend, Doc, and headed out for International Calypso Night. The headliner was Shaggy. Excellent show that night! Shaggy put on a great performance, singing all of his hits (It Wasn’t Me, Church Heathen, O’ Carolina, Boombastic). One performer, Soca Elvis, was, um, interesting. Just picture an Elvis impersonator in a shiny gold suit singing calypso music. He has a sidekick named Cyclops, who is a Rastafarian midget. You just had to be there… <img src="http://www.traveltalkonline.com/forums/images/graemlins/jester.gif" alt="" />
That night ended up being a very long one as we hit a local club after the Festival. I ended up back at my hotel room at 5:45 that morning.
Sunday, August 5
I met Sam and Kaletha, along with their son Nicky, at the Palm Groovin’ food stand set up especially for the Festival, around Noon. It was hard for me to get up because I was nursing a hangover of epic proportions from my partying earlier that morning but I was a trooper. <img src="http://www.traveltalkonline.com/forums/images/graemlins/Sick.gif" alt="" /> I think the delicious chicken roti I ordered helped immensely!
After eating, we caught the ferry to Virgin Gorda. Sam rented a car and we went to the Top of the Baths. While we were there swimming, we ran into some participants of the Black Boaters Summit, a group that I had read about on the web. “The Black Boaters Summit is an annual event that brings together African Americans who share a mutual love for sailing, cruising, diving and adventure”, so their slogan says. The group usually gets together every year and sails the BVI for a week, stopping at a different location everyday. There were 15 boats (sail and power) participating this year, while in the past, they have had as many as 25. Even though I’m a landlubber, I think I may look into this for future trips as the people I met were a fun loving bunch.
After visiting the Top of the Baths, we made out way to Nail Bay Resort for a late lunch and another swim in their fabulous pool next to the bar. At Nail Bay, we came across the most fragrant and colorful frangapani. They smelled so wonderful so we picked a couple of blooms to take back with us. I floated them in a glass in my hotel room and they lasted my entire trip. Then it was back to the ferry terminal for our ride back to Tortola.
The Miss BVI pageant took place that night. I was going to attend with Doc until I heard the venue didn’t have air conditioning - a MUST for this hot-blooded gal. Good thing I didn’t attend because the pageant ran for 4 hours. After that, most people headed to the festival grounds or tried to get some sleep before participating in j’ouvert at 6AM that morning. I was feeling a little lazy that evening from hanging out in the sun all day. So I headed to the little fresh juice stand located across the street from Le Cabanon and hung out with Baz, the owner, for a bit of juice and conversation. My favorite juice combination was the strawberry, banana, coconut and honey – yummy!
About 10:30pm, I was heading back to Maria’s. I passed the taxi stand and ran into a taxi driver friend of mine whom I haven’t spoken to in a year. We ended up talking until about 2:00am, then I headed off to Maria’s for some much needed sleep.
I heard the music for j’ouvert EARLY that morning as the tramp went by the hotel trying to lure me out of the bed but sleep won out. I didn’t feel like having powder, flour and water poured all over me as I wined in the street. Tragically, I heard later that two teens were killed during j’ouvert in a stupid fight. So sad…
Monday, August 6
Parade Day! <img src="http://www.traveltalkonline.com/forums/images/graemlins/Banana.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://www.traveltalkonline.com/forums/images/graemlins/Banana.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://www.traveltalkonline.com/forums/images/graemlins/Banana.gif" alt="" /> The day started out rainy but it soon turned into a hot and steamy afternoon. The parade was actually better than some in the past. I heard that over 40 troops participated. It was nice to see some of my friend’s children in the parade, dressed in their colorful costumes. They were so excited!
After the parade, I chilled out a bit in my room, then I met Kaletha and her son at the festival grounds. This was the last night that the grounds would be open because the festival (minus the carnival rides) was being moved to the East End for the next two nights, so her 4-year old son wanted to take advantage of the rides for the last time. It started to rain so we made it an early night.
Tuesday, August 7
A Day at the Horse Races! When I woke up that morning, it was very rainy and windy. I was doubtful that the horses would be running in this weather but the races were still on. I had breakfast downstairs, then I sat on my balcony reading and watching the rain. Doc picked me up around 1:00pm and off we went to the track. We ended up staying in the car for about 20 minutes until the rain let up then we made our way to the stands. The weather eventually cleared and the races began about 1 ½ hour behind schedule. I learned that the people in the BVI love the horse races. The turnout was very impressive, even on that muddy day.
I had my first sip of Arundel Cane Rum, courtesy of some older gentlemen who thought I was the hottest thing since chili peppers so they kept buying me drinks. They were so much fun to talk to.
After we left the races that evening, Doc took me to a neighborhood bar to play pool. Then it was back to my hotel to change for the Festival on the East End.
We arrive at East End around 11pm. A local band, Showtime Band, was playing that night along with some other bands. I bump into Elvet Myers, who owns Elm Beach Suites, at one of the bars, as well as other old friends. It was just great seeing everyone again. We leave around 1:30pm to hit a local club, then it was back to the hotel at 4:00am.
Wednesday, August 8
I wake up too late for breakfast yet again so I make plans to go to Village Cay for lunch, then (finally!) to Cane Garden Bay. Again, I step out on the balcony, turn to the left, and there is a NCL ship docked at the pier. <img src="http://www.traveltalkonline.com/forums/images/graemlins/cloud.gif" alt="" /> Total surprise to me!!! Oh well...
I have a wonderful lunch at Village Cay, then I make my way back to the hotel to change for the beach. Sam picks me up at the hotel. He has some cruise ship passengers in his taxi and we chat on the way to CGB. The passengers are a family of 5 from New York. The mother can’t really stand cruising so she was very interested in my past vacation experiences in Tortola. As soon as we came over the hill and she saw CGB in the distance, she immediately fell in love. They are now planning a land based trip and staying in CGB.
Of course, the beach was packed. My friend, Shabba, picked out a chair for me. I got a pina colada, put on my sunscreen, turned on my Ipod and tuned out. It was great and the water was perfect. I just wished there were less people in it. I also made a point to see Prince and Kareem at Myett’s as well as speak to One Love at his stand. Sam picked me up around 3 hours later to take me back to the hotel, where I showered and took a nice nap.
When I woke up, I was starving. While at breakfast at Village Cay that morning, I had perused the dinner menu and the crunchy, spicy lamb chops had caught my eye. Well, those lamb chops were calling my name so I got dressed and headed to Village Cay for dinner. As I was starting to eat, my friend Doc shows up unexpectedly to pick up his to-go order. It was a pleasant surprise as we sit down and have dinner together. <img src="http://www.traveltalkonline.com/forums/images/graemlins/dine.gif" alt="" />
After dinner, it was a bit early to head to East End for the festival events so we went back to my hotel and watched some DVD’s until 11PM, then we headed back out. We met up with Sam, Kaletha and Para (sic), who is the manager of Chillin’ Café. The headliner that night was the Mighty Sparrow, the self-dubbed “Calypso King of the World”. He was very entertaining.
I was dropped at my hotel around 3am and I hit the sack.
Thursday, August 9
I woke up kinda bummed that morning because I had to leave the next day. I have breakfast with my friend, Karl, at this restaurant next to Village Cay. I can’t recall the name but their Caribbean potatoes were da bomb! After leaving him, I wandered around Road Town. The shops were closed during Festival Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday so this was the first day I got to do a little shopping. I also hit the internet café to check up on emails. I then head back to the hotel to do some packing.
I hit Capriccio’s again for a late lunch. I ordered the salmon risotto, which was delicious, and people watched. I paid Doc a visit at his office and we chatted for a bit. Then I went back to the hotel, sat out on the balcony and read a novel for the rest of the afternoon - so relaxing.
Later that night, Doc and I headed to Carrot Bay for the continuation of the Festival. I think I like the Carrot Bay Festival the best as it’s more intimate and family oriented than the others. We caught Singing Sandra, another very entertaining Calypso singer. Alas, I had to call it an early night because I was leaving in the morning. My last night in Tortola!
Friday, August 10
I woke up around 7:30am, finished packing and met Sam and Kaletha at Capriccio’s for breakfast since it was across from the ferry terminal. I caught the 10:00am Fast Ferry to STT, breezed thru customs, then was on my way via taxi to the airport. My 2:45pm Delta flight was on time and we landed in ATL around 6:30pm. Got my bags, took the Park ‘n Fly Plus shuttle to my car and made my way home.
I have to say that this was one of my best trips to Tortola. This was my 11th trip since 2002 and I’ve made so many good friends that it’s starting to feel like a second home to me. I enjoy that my friends take me to their homes and their neighborhood hangouts, ones that wouldn't stand a chance of being promoted by the Tourist Board, etc. I get to see some of the true BVI thru them and not just the glossy, "sun, sand and sea" image that is presented to tourists.
Next trip: October 5 to attend Sam and Kaletha’s wedding in Virgin Gorda. Can't wait!
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