Our seventh time on the island, fourth at Club O. DTW – CLT with US AIRWAYS no probs other than huge lines at the airport and testy staff. CLT – SXM we took off about 30 mins late because of a passenger miscount or something. Also, strangely, once off the first leg in Charlotte we had to get in a line at the gate to show our passports (why, as we were already in a secure area and had already showed them to get on the first flight?) and then get in another line immediately four feet to the right to board the plane. US Airways – doing in two lines what most airlines do in one. Shortly before we landed a couple of Jimmy Cliff songs (Roots Woman and The Harder They Come) came up when I had the Ipod on shuffle giving me the idea for the musical theme of this report. So we landed at 4:30 (as opposed to the scheduled 4:05) and didn’t get our luggage until 5:15. Met Leslie from Kenny’s Car Rental outside who processed us quickly and we turned right out of the airport to get stuck in traffic going into Marigot. But really, it was closing in on 6 p.m. on a Friday, traffic is bad everywhere then. Meanwhile Aerosmith were on the radio singing “Back in the Saddle Again” and it felt like we were back at our home away from home. Stopped at Don G’s for a weeks cigar supply, checked into Club O and popped over to Villa Pizza on Cul de Sac for a good meal. Headed over to the Super Marche by Mark’s Place but we got there at 8:25 and the place closed at 8:30. We saw a security guard overlooking the parking lot – we checked in first to rid ourselves of our luggage – per the advice of this board we leave nothing in an unattended car. Driving back on the ridiculous road to Club O the Pussycat Dolls were on the radio singing “Loosen up my Buttons” which seemed fitting.
Dec 29
Light showers at about 6 a.m. Took a walk down OB around 7:30. A little less beach than last year. Went to Orientique for a Daily Herald and baguette, had breakfast at the room and tagged our chairs on the beach. We then popped back over to the Super Marche and were quite happy with the prices and selection (better cheese section than our store back home). Stopped briefly at Rima to replace a broken beach bag and back to Orient. Shortly after noon we walked down for lunch at Baywatch which was terrific as always. Walked down to Coco Beach and back to the Club O section until about 4 p.m. Darden Smith’s “A Place In the Sun” was playing on the Ipod. Quick nap and shower and decided to go to dinner at Tutta Pasta which is a favorite but it was closed (on a Saturday night?) so we drove towards Simpson’s Bay and randomly stopped at Tequila which is the Mexican sister restaurant of Rancho steak house. Tequila is in an upstairs giant room which, I think, was going for a tree-house motif. We sat at the end overlooking the water and enjoyed the music coming from a live band at Rancho. The food was pretty good but can you really go wrong with Mexican as long as everything is fresh? For every other meal in the week we went back to our room and enjoyed chocolate or strawberry flavored Etna on the patio but tonite we couldn’t resist the deep fried ice cream and it didn’t disappoint. Overall I would recommend Tequila.
Dec 30
Went to Orientique for a baguette, pastry and Daily Herald except there wasn’t a Daily Herald as it was Sunday (so is it really a daily then…?) Breakfast and out to the beach for an hour and a half (Ipod: Kenny Chesney – Island Boy) until it became too windy so we headed to Phillipsburg after lunch at the room. We scouted out a pair of earrings at DK Gems and went to the Guavaberry shop amongst others. Phillipsburg looked good and the boardwalk, while not really my thing, has been a good addition. In fact, we felt the entire Dutch side was looking a lot cleaner than it has the last few years. Back to Club O for a nap and out to perennial favorite Tutta Pasta which was open this night. Once again, this place was great, especially the Ricotta cheese stuffed Eggplant appetizer. As always, we had a great meal here and headed back to the room for Etna and a cigar.
Dec 31st
Orientique for a baguette, Daily Herald and breakfast on the patio. Out on the beach for a ½ hour until it started raining for over an hour at which time we decided to head over to Marigot. Big mistake. Traffic was jammed up and it took us most of an hour to get from the edge of town to parked. Very clearly the high Euro is negatively affecting business on the French side. The staff at these establishments seem to be countering this downturn by stepping up the rudeness level, a feat I would have thought unattainable. My wife needed to use a restroom but one of the staff at a Marina restaurant would not supply a key as we weren’t currently a customer of the restaurants and was rather haughty about it. My wife, having seen a 1 to 1 ratio sign somewhere, decided to match this rudeness evenly and informed the staff member that we would not be dining at the Marina area restaurants anytime soon. Usually we ate there at least once a year, but with this incident, an absolutely horrible dining experience at a restaurant there last year and the general creepy feeling of Marigot at night, we skipped eating there this year and for the foreseeable future.
We had a much more pleasant experience at Roland Richardson’s art gallery (www.rolandrichardson.com) where we purchased a beautiful print of a Flamboyant tree. The staffer that took care of us there wrapped the thing up so well I’m certain that if there had been a nuclear explosion all that would be left on earth would be cockroaches, Keith Richards and our print. She was in an adjoining room and we sat there for twenty minutes listening to her wrap the thing while Rod Stewarts cheesy Amercian Songbook was playing on the stereo. Every time we thought for sure she was finished we would again hear the screech of the tape machine as she wrapped it even more thoroughly, but I should not complain as it arrived home safely. Roland is a talented St. Martin native working mostly in oils and watercolors and through the back of the gallery he maintains spectacular gardens which alone are worth the visit. After this, we headed back to Orient for about an hour on the beach, a quick nap and preparations for the New Years Eve party at Papagayo’s. This was our third consecutive year attending this party and we enjoyed ourselves immensely. The food was pretty good but the line up process was poorly executed (you had to be there). This year there was a DJ that was pretty good however we had been used to live entertainment and missed it. The fireworks were great but it was quite windy at the time and I caught a bit of “shrapnel” on my hand, fortunately it had gone out and there was no damage done. Afterwards we “mooched” the fireworks down the beach at, I think, Boo Boo Jams and I brought in the year with a fantastic Montecristo #2 and champagne. Denis the manager was very concerned that everyone had a good time and I think everyone did.
Jan 01
A beautiful morning on the beach but I briefly had to tell some teenage cruise-shippers to put their camera away. I decided to forgo the cheesy choice of “New Years Day” by U2 on the Ipod and instead chose “A New Flame” by Simply Red. Lunch back at the room were I noticed the Etna was mislabeled 473 litres! (I think they meant point 473 litres) Back to the beach in the afternoon and a quick nap later. Early this evening we made our perennial visit to the Christmas house near Friar Bay and took a few pictures. We stopped at a quiet Grand Case and walked the town before going to Le California for our 8 p.m. reservation. We had an amazing seat by the window over the water with a great view of the harbor and the lights of Anquilla. The appetizer of artichoke gratin was amazing, the chicken with mushroom sauce was excellent however my buckwheat crepe was a little plain. I blame myself though, for not ordering properly. The presentation was nice and the staff was attentive despite a table of nine being seated right after we came in (I mention this as my experience is this is when places often falter). Le California is 1 to 1 for cash only and when they serve your entrée they take a picture, print it out and attach it to your bill! A gentle rain as we left, back to Club O, Etna, cigar, etc.
Jan 02
Breakfast at the room, again no Daily Herald (they would have had to worked on the 1st). On beach till lunch (4 cruise ships and their attendant gawkers in). Went to Talk of the Town in Grand Case for lunch. It was very good especially the fried plantains. We had ribs and chicken and sides, afterwards coconut ice cream. After they brought the bill was when they delivered the chicken! We got it wrapped to go and unknown to us at the time it proved useful later. Off to P’burg (with Buster Poindexter singing “Hot, Hot, Hot” on the radio) and Rima for tacky shirts and DK Gems for untacky diamond earrings. Strangely, being repeat customers at DK’s (they recognized my wife’s ring from last year) meant that we were on a non-bartering basis! However, I still think we got a great deal and highly recommend them. Back to Club O and a raucous manager’s party followed afterwards by dancing with a karaoke performer which was fun. Around 10 p.m. we headed over to Cul de Sac to try out Au Grain De Sel (A Grain Of Salt for you anglophone readers) on the recommendation of friends. It was quite good, the green salad was a little plain but the pizza was good and the portions were ridiculously large. The kitchen was closing when we arrived but they still served us. We really didn’t do that place justice however as the steak dishes we saw at other patrons tables looked absolutely awesome. Back to CO, Etna, cigar, you know the drill.
Jan 03
Finally a Daily Herald! After breakfast, a neighbor & I snorkeled over to Green Cay which was very interesting and fun – we saw a ton of fish and a few lobster. We got back at lunchtime (obviously we took our time getting over there and back) and went to Baywatch for lunch which was fabulous as usual. Adrian set us up for a reservation at Poulet D’Orleans which is run by his inlaws. (It was during this visit to BW we noticed the music they were playing was Sirius 6 – the sixties station. There have been numerous wistful listenings to that station since we got home...) Later that afternoon my wife began to feel unwell due to the constant sun exposure so while she rested I went to P’burg to DK to pick up the earrings (they had needed a minor adjustment). Coming back I got gas near Orleans for $34 (1 to 1 for cash). Back “home” I cancelled the reservation (sorry Tony) for Poulet D’Orleans as the wife still wasn’t feeling well. All was not lost however as some Club O guests (specifically Virginia and Richard) organized a pot luck where the Talk of The Town chicken made a reappearance. It was great fun, spoke to many people and afterwards headed back to the room for … you know.
Jan 04.
Walked down Orient beach, around the “cape” past Water Sports and saw a “blow hole” on the other side where water from the waves crashing in was being forced straight up from the pressure along with a loud whooshing sound – neat!! After breakfast we spent our last few, precious hours on the beach. Checked out of Club O and had lunch at Rancho del Sol which was pretty good. The presentation was excellent but in my view it was bit on the pricey side and not 1 to 1. Also, there was some very irritating, interminable dance music playing the entire time. Drove to Marigot and stopped at Don G’s for cigars. Has some extra time so we drove through Terra Basses and the Lowlands before stopping at the airport. Shortly after taking off I couldn’t help myself and put on the Ipod and listened to Jimmy Buffett’s “Wonder Why We Ever Go Home”.